The small island of Bornholm is today a popular destination for vacation time. Especially in the summer, the small and picturesque towns along the coast, as well as the curvy roads unwinding over the gentle slopes in the countryside, become increasingly crowded with cars, motorbikes, campers and bicycles – however, without reaching the point where a tourist who is looking for relaxation may feel uncomfortable.
The quiet and relaxed aura of this enjoyable piece of land, halfway between the German-Polish coast and that of Sweden – and nonetheless part of Denmark – hides a history pointed of battles and turmoil, lasting from the early era of the vikings until the Cold War.
Quick historical facts
Between the medieval times and the 17th century, the island was often seized by the Hanseatic League, binding together coastal towns in the Baltic and protecting trading routes. During the 17th century, Sweden became a major player in the area, and wars between Denmark and Sweden meant the island changing landlord more than once, with the locals always playing militarily in favor of a union with Denmark, to an extent made possible by their own forces, yet meeting with final success.
A largely forgotten war between Britain and Denmark, taking place in the years of total confusion brought about by Napoleon’s endeavors all over Europe, meant that Bornholm was attacked by the British fleet in more instance between 1808 and 1810, basically without any success.
World War II
The invasion of Denmark by the Third Reich and the capitulation of the Danish government, militarily unable to counter the irresistible march of Hitler’s military forces in April 1940, resulted in Bornholm being occupied by the Germans. The local Danish commander annotated the order not to resist the German take-over with disappointment, feeling that a firmer military response to the invaders was indeed possible. The island was fairly well organized and armed against an air-launched invasion.
The capitulation of Denmark without engaging in a military struggle allowed to obtain less harsh conditions from the occupants, including a limited independent military activity for the first years of WWII. However, a strong anti-German feeling fueled the growth of a resistance movement, including locally in Bornholm.
Similar to what happened to the Danish mainland (see this post), the military planners of the Third Reich included Bornholm in the coastal defense structure on the outer border of the newly acquired German territory – the so-called Atlantic Wall. In particular, construction of a fortress for four 38 cm cannons started on the south-eastern corner of the island, in Dueodde (similar to that in Hanstholm, Denmark, of Vara, Norway). The very efficient Organisation Todt had the first two emplacement largely complete by April 1941. By the attack on the Soviet Union in June 1941 however, and with the rapid expansion of the Third Reich to the east, the fortress in Dueodde was deemed of little use. In the event, construction works never reached completion.
Further significant war-related construction projects on Bornholm included observation posts and several radar stations (Würzburg and Freya types), which could profit from the location of the island on the route taken by bomber groups on their way back to Britain from raids over Berlin or the surrounding region. The proximity with respect to the facility for the development of experimental weapons at Peenemünde (see here) made of Borhnolm a natural place for the installation of measuring equipment. Furthermore, the main coastal town of Rønne – still today the largest center of the island, where most of the commercial and ferry sea traffic goes through – was largely employed as a base for the Kriegsmarine. Actually, more than 600 different German submarine units called this port during the war years, about one half of the entire German submarine fleet!
Diplomatic relations between the Third Reich and Denmark deteriorated rapidly in August 1943, when the Germans – now at a turning point of the war – launched operation Safari, trying to capture all assets of whatever military value from Denmark, thus also destroying its military capability. As a response, Denmark scuttled 32 of its own vessels, and sent a handful to Swedish or to even more distant friendly ports. In Borhnolm all Danish troops were disarmed and taken away from the island.
Somewhat paradoxically, the most tragic events of the war struck Borhnolm at the very end, when the island found itself off the coast of Poland, now taken over by the Soviet Red Army advancing from the east towards Berlin (see this post). As the fear of defeat and imprisonment grew among the ranks of Third Reich forces, following the heavy losses on the eastern front in Spring 1945, many German troops reached Bornholm to prepare for an escape further west, or north to neutral Sweden. This presence was noticed by Soviet intelligence, who intercepted communications mentioning several thousands of German military troops on the island – their actual number has been estimated at around 20’000 by May 1945. The war officially ended in Denmark on May 5th, 1945. However, at that time the chain of command and the communication system in the Third Reich had collapsed, and the local German commanders on Bornholm still retained the order to repel the Soviets with any possible means, without permission to surrender. As a result, the Soviets bombed the island twice, severely damaging Rønne and the port town of Nexø, unharmed up to that point, on May 7th and 8th, 1945.
Soviet Occupation
Following the two Soviet bombing raids, a group of six Soviet torpedo boats sailed from Kolberg, Poland (now Kolobrzeg, see this post), landed and reclaimed control of the island of Bornholm on April 9th, 1945. At that time, about 16’000 German troops and refugees were still on the island, trying to flee to the West or to Sweden by any possible means. Reportedly 700 boats of any kind were involved in this desperate evacuation operation, and about 5’000 Germans (military and civilian) had fled by sea just the day before the Soviet landing.
The anti-German resistance movement on Bornholm joined forces with the Soviets, trying to search for trapped German troops and prevent their escape to the West. The airfield in Rønne was captured on May 9th in one of these joint actions – specifically stopping a German aircraft already taxiing for take-off, after some others had already successfully got airborne! These operations went on until May 20th, and due to the very significant number of German troops still on site, they required drafting people in the Soviet-backed group of ‘freedom fighters’, which afterwards remained the only official local para-military group on the island, besides the Red Army (conversely, members of the the original voluntary resistance movement soon returned to their pre-war civilian occupation).
The Soviet presence on Bornholm constituted a potentially explosive problem. The agreement at Yalta between the US, Britain and the USSR in February 1945, months before the actual capitulation of the Third Reich, had defined that Denmark would remain independent, and specifically not within the Soviet-controlled territories in Europe. The British government, at that time still led by Churchill, was extremely worried by the Soviet capture of Bornholm, and after unofficially questioning the Soviets, the answer was even more appalling – according to Soviet diplomats, the island had to stay under Soviet control indefinitely, through the support of a military contingent of 9’000, soon to reach those already on site!
This led to the beginning of a peculiar page in the history of Bornholm, and of the diplomatic relations between the USSR and the West, which would soon get worse on a global scale, leading to the Cold War. Relations between the local Danish government and the Soviets were generally good at an official level, thanks to the skills of the local leading figure on the Danish side, von Stemann. To keep the public eye on this unsolved issue, he managed to organize an official visit of the Crown Princess of Denmark, who met the Soviet top staff on Bornholm. The day-by-day coexistence with the Soviets was less idyllic, with increasing incidents due to the misconduct of the bored Soviet troops stationed on the island, and the growing discontent among the locals. Uncertainty about Soviet plans fostered fear over a possible long-term occupation.
Finally in December 1945, Britain officially questioned the Soviet government about the case of Bornholm, and Molotov answered that the Soviet Union did not intend to have any permanent base in Denmark (as per the Yalta accords), yet the island was to be retained by the USSR as a guarantee, due to the presence of British troops on the Danish mainland.
The Danish government reacted preparing to retake full control of its own territory, correspondingly asking all foreign troops – from any nation – out of its borders. In March 1946 it was announced that the Soviet troops would leave the island of Bornholm, as Denmark prepared to install its own military forces back on it. In good order, the Soviets actually left the island, the last ship departing Rønne on April 5th, 1946.
The Cold War
Denmark joined NATO as a founding member in 1949, the result of the action of the then prime minister Hans Hedtoft, a former member of the resistance in Denmark, who had got a clear insight of the line of action followed by the Soviet Union, at that time still led by Stalin.
The support given by Denmark to NATO was not obvious for that country, since the proximity to the Eastern Bloc – especially Bornholm, geographically located close to the (by then) Soviet-controlled Polish coast – made Denmark extremely vulnerable and militarily untenable in case of a potential Soviet attack. The policy adopted by the Danish government over the decades of the Cold War in support of NATO was sincere but always carefully calibrated, to reduce the risk of Soviet intervention, which would possibly result in an extremely dangerous escalation.
Consequently, no international NATO base nor any nuclear warhead was ever permanently based in Denmark. Yet highly defended coastal strongholds were established, which can still be seen today (see this post).
Bornholm hit the headlines in the early phase of the Cold War, when the first-ever jet-propelled fighter from beyond the Iron Curtain defected to the West. This happened on March 5th, 1953, the very same day of Stalin’s death. The Polish pilot, 21 years old Franciszek Jarecki, had departed Slupsk airbase in northern Poland on a training mission, when he suddenly left his group and flew as fast and low as he could to Rønne, where he safely landed his aircraft, asking for asylum. The aircraft was a MiG-15, and that was the first time this new type of aircraft, which played havoc against propeller-driven machines in the early phase of the Korean War, could be inspected by Western powers.
The case was treated very carefully from a diplomatic standpoint by Denmark, to avoid provoking a violent reaction on the Soviet side. A technical inspection was carried out in a well-coordinated, highly secretive mission set up by the British and the US, ending with the restitution of the reassembled machine to Poland. Finally, the pilot was granted asylum in the US, where he had a remarkable military career (his flight suit from the defection mission ending up in the Smithsonian collection, at Udvar-Hazy Center, close to Dulles airport in Washington, D.C.). This topic is well covered in the excellent book ‘The secret MiGs of Bornholm‘ by Dick van der Aart (see the bookshop section).
Jarecki’s escape was not an isolated case, since in 1953 and 1956 two more Polish fighter pilots successfully landed (or crash-landed) their aircraft on Bornholm (while another made it all the way to Sweden). Then the Soviets had Polish fighter units relocated further south, where Bornholm was out of range, and took over control of the northernmost bases.
Defection to Borhnolm by air on a jet fighter was rare compared to the overall cases of people reaching Bornholm to flee either communist Poland or the GDR, similarly close to the island. For all the years of the Cold War, Bornholm constituted the goal of dozens of escape attempts, some of them successful, carried out mostly by sea.
The location well within the Soviet area of influence was exploited with the construction of a prominent intelligence base by Denmark, to the advantage of NATO forces. This was again in the Dueodde. The base was very effective and was updated to keep up with upgrades in electronic communication technology over the years until the end of the Cold War. It was later kept in service, and shut off only in 2012.
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A visit to Bornholm today will likely be for relaxation and for enjoying this nice country. However, for those with an interest for its peculiar history there are some very interesting collections and rare sites to visit. They allow to retrace in particular the rich military history of the island, without much effort and with great satisfaction for either researchers or the general public. This post covers five of them, four of which are museums. They were all visited in the summer of 2024, and all photographs were taken in that occasion.
A good place to start the exploration of the military history of Bornholm, the Defence Museum (Bornholms Forsvarsmuseum in the local idiom) is located to the south of the town center of Rønne, the busiest seaport and the capital city of the island.
The museum is hosted in two old military buildings, including the local kastellet, a massive tower with a round base, built for coastal defense.
The collection is housed in the courtyard and on the two levels of the first building. For the relatively little area it covers, this collection is extremely rich and informative, with panels covering in depth some specific events, offered in multiple languages including English.
On the ground floor, an interesting exhibition on the evolution of the artillery in Bornholm starts with a display of very old cannons – including possibly the oldest preserved exemplars of some types – and insignia dating from the wars against Sweden.
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Then more modern exemplars from the 19th century, and reaching to an American type 105 from WWII, employed on Bornholm in the Cold War period, allow to follow the evolution of this type of weapon.
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
For more curious visitors, little artifacts interspersed between the larger exhibits on display add much value to the collection. Training material for anti-aircraft artillery from the WWII era, including down-scaled fake aircraft targets, as well as various types of grenades and shells employed with the artillery pieces stationed on the island can be found on display between the big guns on the ground floor.
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
An original German aiming device has been positioned such to be still usable – you can see outside through the optical system. Note the eagle and swastika marking on the label.
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
A particularly interesting item, not easy to find in a museum, is a complete launching device for the Stinger missile. This type of ground-to-air anti-aircraft missile, albeit rather rudimentary compared to other offensive missile platforms, has turned out very effective in actual war scenarios, especially against slow-moving aircraft or helicopters. The compact launchpad, operable by a single gunner, features two launching tubes. Aiming is via a visor, and the trigger is placed on two pistol-like grips.
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Many radio transmitters and receivers, including a sizable console with stacks mostly made in the US (look at the labels and tags!), are on display together with a rare computer, a Compucorp 625 Mark II, a standalone machine which was employed from the late 1970s to run a software for ballistic computations.
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
On the top floor of the same building, an exhibition covering some specific military episodes from the 19th century serves as an introduction to the rich collection of memorabilia from WWII and the Cold War.
Decorations from the Third Reich, as well as insignia, uniforms and personal everyday items belonging to the Wehrmacht troops, or to some specific people in the German staff living on the island, are on display, in most cases along with explanatory panels telling their peculiar stories.
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Unusual items include a table with mottoes in German, an embroidered napkin with emblems from the winning powers of WWII.
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
As said in the introduction, Bornholm found itself on the trajectory of allied bombers returning from raids on today’s northeastern Germany (including Berlin). In more instances, bombers damaged by flak fire or by German fighter aircraft, hence unable to make their way home, were forced to crash-land on Bornholm. The detailed history of two of these bombers and their corresponding crews is told in a dedicated set of display cases, showing even the track followed by each of the crew members as they tried to flee Bornholm (occupied by the Germans). Some interesting memorabilia items are on display from those episodes, including personal belongings of the crew members, and cash notes in diverse currencies, with their names written on them. These notes were given specifically to crew members, to help them in case of landing in a foreign country in Europe.
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
From the same era is a perfectly preserved Enigma machine. This is presented together with a detailed story, which could be retraced by war historians in Bornholm. Actually, this specific machine was made in 1937 and largely employed on the Eastern front in the actions against the Soviet Union. When German troops were fleeing the northern coast of Poland and Germany in the last days of the war (May 1945), the machine arrived to Bornholm, where it was little employed, since the chain of command of the German Army had collapsed by that time. The machine was ditched in the water by the surrendering troops, but it was soon to be found, taken to a private house, and largely forgotten afterwards. Finally, it was donated to the museum decades later.
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Another unusual display is about the relics of German experimental weapons landing in Bornholm, and the espionage operations related to their find. Due to the proximity with the island of Usedom and the research center of Wehrner von Braun in Peenemünde, launches from the polygon where V-1 and V-2 were being tested could be spotted sometimes from Bornholm. Actually, early exemplars of a Fieseler Fi-103, aka V-1, first stranded on Bornholm in July and August 1943. They were first discovered by two local Danish citizens belonging to the police, who took quick sketches and pictures, and passed them to the British through the anti-German resistance links. These turned out to be the first photographs of that new weapon to reach the western Allies. The two were captured and imprisoned by the German occupants, but eventually they managed to flee to Sweden.
Some relics of the V-1 crashed on Bornholm are on display, as well as memorabilia items belonging to the two Danes who found the relic. The latter include a British decoration presented for their service.
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Additionally, interesting pictures show the contrail of a V-2 photographed over Bornholm, and the picture of another V-2 crashed in Sweden!
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Further remains from the era include gauges from the cockpit of German fighter aircraft, captured by the Soviets as they were trying to takeoff from Bornholm and escape, and a ribbon from the ill-fated German passenger ship Wilhelm Gustloff. She was sank by a Soviet submarine roughly 60 miles east of Bornholm in January 1945, while enroute to mainland Germany from former possessions of the Third Reich in nowadays Poland, lost to the advancing Red Army. Losses are estimated in the range of 10’000, making this largely forgotten episode by far the worst-ever naval disaster in history.
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Another rich section documents the presence of the Soviets on the island. Artifacts on display range from flags and direction signs for the stationing troops, written in Russian, to many personal items left behind by the Soviets.
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Typical propaganda posters are on display as well, similar to more official and non-public items, like transcripts of communications between the local Danish and Soviet commanders from the age of the Soviet occupation of Bornholm in 1945-46.
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Many evocative pictures are on display from that time as well, and similarly from the Cold War. Among them, pictures of the Polish MiGs landed on Bornholm, of the many ELINT and COMINT centers put on Bornholm during the decades of the Cold War (including the tower in Nexø, see here), and copy of the Soviet attack plan in case of war against NATO.
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
A final chapter documented in this nice museum is the service of the Danish Armed Forces within the UN in Cyprus. Tasked with border surveillance between the two regions on the island, Danish forces were involved in action – with some casualties – at the time of the Turkish attack in 1970. They only left the island in the early 1990s.
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
The kastellet is today mostly empty, and once inside, it is possible to appreciate the original architecture of this bastion, which saw action against the many attempts by foreign attackers to land on Bornholm.
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
On the outside and in a small depot on the side of the inner courtyard, further items are on display. Propellers from the WWII aircraft crashed in the area represent both the German Luftwaffe (Do-17 bomber) and the Western Allies (B-24 and Halifax bombers).
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
A Chaffee-type small tank and two armored vehicles are on display, together with naval guns, radar antennas, land robots and artillery aiming gear.
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
A peculiar sight is one of the observation turrets originally scattered on the territory of the island, for spotting aircraft or other flying stuff and promptly report it.
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
On display are also sea mines, sonobuoys, radar scopes and parts of torpedoes, some of them interesting Soviet models, likely recovered from the Baltic Sea during the Cold War.
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Ahead of the entrance to the museum, a memorial stone has been put more recently by an association of veterans.
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Getting there and visiting
The museum is located close to Rønne downtown, from where it can be reached with a short walk (about .3 miles south from the central touristic area). The address is Arsenalvej 8 – 3700 Rønne. There is a little parking area on site. The museum is professionally run, and it has its own dedicated website here (also available in English).
Visiting is strongly recommended as a first stop for an exploration of the military history of Bornholm. For war buffs, WWII and Cold War historians, this place has much in store, and a visit may easily take 2 hours. Less is required for a more basic visit, made easy also by the compactness of the display.
Bornholm’s Museum, Rønne
Bornholm’s Museum is the main facility dedicated to the history of the island. Located in a former hospital, you can immediately notice the presence of a bombing raid shelter in the courtyard. This is an original relic from WWII.
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
The museum takes all floors of a small building, and it is dedicated to the history of the island in all its aspects, and with artifacts from all ages, including Roman coins and viking accessories.
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Of particular interest from the time of the vikings is a collection of golden plates. They are smaller than a human fingernail, and decorated with human figures and other subjects. Plus, they are really many! They are of special interest also due to the fact that nobody knows what they are. Archaeologists found them mostly on Bornholm, and in a much lower quantity elsewhere in Scandinavia.
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Fast forward to the 20th century, the museum has on display interesting memorabilia from WWII and from the era of the Soviet occupation.
Among them are original decorations, documents and photographs, from both the German and Soviet sides.
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
From the early Cold War period, a small piece from Jarecki’s MiG-15 is preserved in a display case, with a picture of President Eisenhower receiving at the White House the first pilot defecting from Eastern Europe (apparently, a young John F. Kennedy appears to stand behind them).
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Shop signs and indication signs in Russian, the original working desk of the Danish governor of the island at the time of the Soviet occupation, and everyday working tools belonging to the Soviet staff are among the displays in this museum.
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
A – perhaps – non-permanent exhibition is dedicated to the Soviets on the island, including the two air bombing raids they carried out in the closing days of WWII, which caused much destruction.
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
An interesting exhibition on the Cold War in Bornholm examines it from different perspectives. Among them, it is shown how preparations for a nuclear attack included the institution of a civil defense system, similar to most western Countries.
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Similarly, the conspicuous wave of defections, of both military staff and civilians, from beyond the Iron Curtain to Bornholm is fully documented. Being located relatively close to the GDR and Poland, Bornholm was a natural target destination for those trying to leave the Baltic coast by sea. On display are documents of seamen asking for asylum, as well as a small dinghy employed for a successful escape attempt. A rather impressive full list of the successful and unsuccessful escape attempts towards Bornholm from the communist world is provided.
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
In another part of the museum, dedicated to everyday items and business activities, it is possible to find toys and other common tools from the Cold War era, as well as beautiful models of several vessels in service at that time – as well as today.
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Getting there and visiting
The museum is one of the major attractions in Rønne, the capital city of the island. It is located within the perimeter of the historical center of the town, and you will be probably visiting it if you are interested in any aspect of the history of Bornholm. The address is Sankt Mortens Gade 29 – 3700 Rønne.
For those with an interest for the military history of the 20th century, the collection of this museum makes for a nice complement to that to be found in the Defence Museum (see above).
For a complete visit, 1 to 2 hours are likely enough. Less than 1 hour is needed if you are mostly interested to the WWII and Cold War part, including the nice exhibition on the Soviet presence.
The museum has regular opening times and a fully documented website here (also available in English).
Bornholm’s Tower, Nexø
The tower is an authentic relic from the Cold War. The intelligence site in Dueodde (close to the major town of Nexø, itself close to the southeastern corner of Bornholm) was originally established in 1958, in the facilities of an old lighthouse from 1876, which is still standing besides the new tower.
The task was that of intercepting communications from Soviet channels, primarily to the aim of knowing of any potentially offensive maneuver against Denmark or NATO in advance. The geographical location of Bornholm made it ideal for installing such a plant, since this territory is significantly farther east than the Danish mainland, hence closer to the Eastern Bloc and the Soviet Union.
Soon after the take over of the lighthouse by the Danish intelligence and the installation of the first technical gear, continuous improvement started around that facility, leading to the construction of a dedicated tower, which stood until the mid 1980s, and was extensively employed for gathering useful intelligence. Among the most notable information obtained in favor of NATO forces were the reports witnessing the preparation of an attack by the Warsaw Pact forces on Czechoslovakia, at the time of Dubcek’s attempted reformation of the communist system in 1968 – an invasion which eventually took place, tragically putting an end to a new political course in that Country.
The relevance of the site in Dueodde in the panorama of NATO intelligence is further shown by the decision to substantially upgrade the technical installation, demolishing the existing infrastructure and building anew a more modern and massive tower in 1986.
The new tower was operated continuously until 2012, when the installation was finally shut down, and the facility was partly demolished and sold. It is since then privately owned, and it has now reopened for visitors.
A visit allows to explore the foundations of the tower, where cables and pipelines – including compressed air and coolant fluid – can still be seen. Compressed air was employed for keeping in shape the special ‘shells’ where the technical stuff used to be put.
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
These shells were arranged hanging vertically from the concrete tower, which is the only part remaining today (the shells are gone, you can see two of the original platforms in the courtyard, close to the original cooling station). Coolant fluid was employed for the big servers which hosted and processed data. A wind monitoring cabinet – made in USA – can be found at the ground level of the tower.
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
By taking the original elevator, it is possible to climb to the top, where the view ranges in all directions, and allows to see the beautiful white dunes for which this area is mostly famous.
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Inside the facility, mostly empty today, it is possible to see some remnants of the server rooms. Most of the empty rooms have been employed for a display of electronic cabinets and communication gear. A reconstruction of some of original technical rooms has been attempted, and the display is completed with historical pictures of the site.
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Server rooms are among the preserved original parts of the tower.
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Further rooms host displays related at large to WWII and the Cold War.
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
An interesting addition to the visit is an original MiG-15, presented in the colors of the Polish Air Force, and resembling those which fled from Poland to Bornholm, at the commands of brave early Cold War defectors. Photographs and copies of newspapers documenting those episodes are on display.
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Interestingly, what appears to be a control surface or the part of a wing of an authentic Soviet aircraft can be seen on the side of the display, likely only provisionally.
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Scattered along the walls in the exhibition are original pictures, with close-ups of intercepted aircraft from the Soviet bloc.
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Getting there and visiting
The tower (Bornholmertarnet in the local idiom) is located close to the white dunes of the strand of Dueodde, on the very southeastern tip of the island, about 4 miles south of the major town of Nexø. The exact formal address is Strandmarksvejen 2 – 3730 Nexø. Large parking on site.
Visiting may take about 1 hour for the interested visitor. The tower can be climbed to the top with an elevator. Visiting the facility and exhibitions does not take much, since most rooms are basically empty.
The official website of this installation is here (multiple translations available).
Bornholm’s Technical Collection, Allinge
This incredible museum has been constituted through the merge of several private collections. In most cases they are very specialized selections of technical items. These range from tractors to airport vehicles, from pocket lighters to radios, from personal computers to naval radar scopes, and much more!
Besides well-stuffed collections, which strike for their size and range, there are also some specialties, like unusual items – typically relics or one-of-a-kind exemplars. Especially the latter include some items from the Cold War chapter of the history of Bornholm.
Actually, possibly the biggest item on display is a SAAB Draken aircraft. This excellent Swedish-made attack aircraft used to fly in the colors of the Danish Air Force (see this post). The exemplar on display comes with some of the accessories, including wing pods, the parachute for brake assistance, etc.
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Close by the Draken, it is possible to find several aviation-related displays, like jet engines, optical gear, radar-receiving consoles. There is also the map of the scenic flights offered from an airport which does not exist any more, and which used to be close to the northern coast of the island (the only airport is today that in Rønne).
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
One of the jet engines looks like an evidence from an aircraft accident, involving a Learjet business jet crash-landed on Bornholm.
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Not far from the Draken, another rare aircraft on display is a SAI KZIII, designed and manufactured in Denmark in 1946.
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Further finds in the museum are a stop light, which was employed for stopping road traffic on local roads close to the runway, when an aircraft in need of a shallow approach path was landing in Rønne, and the doors originally in an airport building, with stickers of flight associations from all over the world.
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
A military trailer with radio communication gear is on display, as well as an old truck, which happens to be the very same truck seen boarded by young Soviet soldiers, at the time of the Soviet occupation of Bornholm!
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
A little collection is made of GDR-made items.
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
A small room is dedicated to marine detection gear and the corresponding scopes.
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bulky elements on display include a one-of-a-kind locally assembled truck, a monster roadworks machine made in the Third Reich and which never returned to Germany, and trucks for removing snow from the road. They have two engines, one moving the truck, the other moving the spool. The arrangement is rather involved, with an articulated (angled!) shaft carrying mechanical power from the engine to the spool.
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Airport gear includes a SAAB car with a runway friction tester in the back, and a truck for spreading anti-ice fluid.
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Other rich hi-tech collections include one with radio receivers, another with cameras and video-recorders.
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Even one centered on personal computer consoles can be found.
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
The collection of tractors on display is really impressive, with machines coming from diverse nations and makers.
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Other parts of the museum are basically old shops moved in, and in some cases with fully working machinery (like the blacksmith).
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
The list of collections is really huge! There is surely something for everybody on display.
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Getting there and visiting
The museum can be found in the countryside, on the road 159 connecting Rønne to Allinge-Sandvig, one of the biggest settlements on the northern coast, about 1.5 miles from the latter. The exact address is Borrelyngvej 48, 3770 Allinge-Sandvig. Large parking on the premises.
The museum is very peculiar, it features rich collections and it is run by knowledgeable people who are willing to provide descriptions and information also in English. A visit may appeal to everybody including children, and not only to war historians. However, it is duly listed here especially for the war- and aviation-related collections in it. A visit to the entire museum may easily take about 2 hours, especially when talking with the locals. Much less is needed for a quick look at just some parts of it.
Even though Stalin’s USSR finally withdrew from the occupied territory of Bornholm, the conquer of the island by the Soviets in 1945-46 meant the construction of a Soviet war cemetery, similar to those to be found scattered on the territory of the former countries of the Eastern bloc.
A very unassuming and rather intimate monument was inaugurated close to the local Danish graveyard in Allinge-Sandvig. By agreement with the local government, the cemetery is still maintained today.
Den Russiske Kirkegård Bornholm – Soviet War Cemetery
Den Russiske Kirkegård Bornholm – Soviet War Cemetery
Den Russiske Kirkegård Bornholm – Soviet War Cemetery
Den Russiske Kirkegård Bornholm – Soviet War Cemetery
Den Russiske Kirkegård Bornholm – Soviet War Cemetery
A central obelisk, with prominent emblems and writings in both Russian and Danish, is placed ahead of a large memorial stone, with the names of fallen Soviet soldiers on it.
Getting there and visiting
The cemetery can be conveniently reached uphill of the village of Allinge-Sandvig. The exact address is Pilegade 18A, 3770 Allinge-Sandvig. Parking is possible on the road in the immediate vicinity of the cemetery. The site is open-air and not fenced, therefore it can be accessed 24/7. Visiting may take 15 minutes.
German coastal gun site, Dueodde
The coastal guns in Dueodde, close to the southeastern corner of the island and the Cold War tower (see above), are not open as a museum, yet they are fairly easily accessible to the general public. They are the most sizable remains of the planned installation for four 38 cm coastal guns, part of the ambitious coastal defense program of the Third Reich known as Atlantic Wall. This particular fortress became pointless after the break-out of hostilities between Hitler’s Germany and the USSR in 1941, since the line of the front shifted significantly towards the east, far away from Bornholm. Since construction works were correspondingly halted, only the unfinished emplacements of two of the cannons remain today, respectively Nr.3 and Nr.4.
The emplacement Nr.3 is easily accessible from the road. You can see the large round base prepared for the revolving gun. The central pinion is still there (note the big diameter of the metal screws, compared with the cover of my wide lens!).
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
The circular corridor for moving the shells and taking them to the gun can be easily walked.
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
The construction to the north was planned to shelter the troops manning the station, as well as with a technical part for storing the shells and the explosive cartridges. Many rooms can be accessed – albeit a torchlight is mandatory in this area. However, they are completely empty, and there is nothing more than bare concrete.
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
The second site, Nr.4, is more secluded within a group of private homes. However, it can be accessed fairly easily by walking. It is basically a twin of the other emplacement, and the state of conservation (including, unfortunately, tons of stupid graffiti) is the same.
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Getting there and moving around
The two emplacements are geographically extremely close to the Cold War tower described above. It is possible to park at the tower, in the large parking areas closer to the white dunes strand, or along the road in proximity to these installations.
The coordinates for parking and getting a quick access are for Nr.3: 55.00058432993301, 15.080803777073971, and for Nr.4: 55.00255210231893, 15.084640862385443.
Both sites are not fenced and accessible 24/7. Visiting may take 15 minutes for each of the emplacements – the condition is unfortunately not ideal, with many graffiti likely such to spoil your pictures.
War actions in Scandinavia constitute a crucial stage in the unfolding of WWII events in Europe. The strategic position of the Scandinavian peninsula was not overlooked by strategists in the Third Reich and the USSR, and by the Western Allies. As a matter of fact, the German invasion of Denmark and Norway took place as early as the Spring of 1940, starting just weeks before the invasion of Holland, Belgium and France.
History & Remains – A Quick Summary
For Germany in WWII, the long and impervious coast of Norway constituted an ideal strong point to carry out raids over the North Sea, Norwegian Sea, the northern Atlantic and the Barents Sea, interfering with resupply convoys from Britain and the US. Especially after the start of the war against the USSR in 1941, the polar routes going to Murmansk – the only non-freezing port on the northern coast of the USSR – were within range of German warships and aircraft operating from the north of Norway. Control over Norway and Denmark meant total control on the access to the Baltic Sea, thus protecting the northern coast of Germany from direct attack by the Western Allies, allowing unimpeded action against the Soviet Union on that sea. Of the greatest importance in the northern European territory was also the abundance of raw materials – mainly metals for industrial production – so desperately needed by the Third Reich.
For the Allies, keeping Scandinavia was an objective of great relevance in the early stages of the war, since this territory could be a convenient springboard to launch attacks against the flat and easy coast of Germany. In the rapidly changing complex alliances and diplomatic relationships of the early stage of WWII (1939-40), Norway and Sweden tried to keep out of the war. Finland fought the Winter War against the USSR (itself one of the results of the Ribbentrop-Molotov pact, albeit not to the knowledge of the Finns), loosing part of its territory and strengthening its link with Germany for some years to come (see this post). The Third Reich attacked Norway by air and sea in April 1940, and help was sought especially in Britain. King Haakon VII of Norway left for exile in England, and the initial battles of WWII between the Reich and the UK were fought – mainly at sea – in proximity of Norwegian ports.
The Atlantic Wall
Possibly the most impressive military trace of WWII in Europe, the Atlantic Wall – a defense line stretching from France to northern Norway – was designed and built in Denmark and Germany, immediately following the successful push of the Third Reich into these Countries. Actually, those are the Countries where the most relevant remains of this interesting trace of war can be found today. A very ambitious project both in purpose and required resources, the Atlantic Wall never reached completion. Despite that, the geography of Norway, with a coastline featuring only limited access to the inland area, allowed to create an effective barrier against a potential enemy landing. Hundreds of gun batteries, complemented with anti-aircraft artillery and radars, constituted a powerful deterrent against any invasion. As a matter of fact, after the unique episode of the Battle of Narvik in the early stages of WWII, no Allied forces ever landed in Norway from the sea for the rest of the war.
A complete visit to all sites of the Atlantic Wall in Norway is a really immense task, due to the number of installations and their geographical remoteness. However, a few impressive highlights can be found in convenient locations, and can be easily visited by everybody. In this post some of them are presented – the colossal battery ‘Vara’, the southern fortified area of Lista, the forts of Fjell and Tellevik near Bergen, and the massive cannons of Austratt.
War Museums
But other fragments of the rich legacy of WWII in Norway can be retraced also away from the preserved installations of the Atlantic Wall. An interesting page is that of naval warfare deployed by the Navy of the Third Reich – the Kriegsmarine – to counter Allied shipping activities. Names like Tirpitz, Scharnhorst and Gneisenau are frequently found in history books as well as in movies or scale model shops, and they are just a few of the mighty vessels linked to the Scandinavian war theater. Dedicated exhibitions can be found in little but impressively rich museums on these topics. In this post, the Tirpitz Museum in Alta, the War Museum of Narvik and the exhibition in the visitor center of North Cape are covered.
Special interest sites
Heroic actions involving the Norwegian resistance organization are proudly remembered all over the Nation. A particularly interesting location being the Rjukan hydroelectric power-plant, which produced heavy water, a key-component in the research leading to the preparation of fissile material. This strategic asset was highly needed by the German nuclear program. On the other hand, its possession by the Third Reich was seen as a clear and present danger by the Allies, who tried to have the plant destroyed in several instances. The Norwegian resistance was clearly much involved in sabotage missions, due to the difficulty in targeting the place through air bombing raids. The power-plant is today a nice museum, covered in this post.
Photographs in this chapter were collected on a visit in August 2022.
Sights
The map below shows the location of the sites mentioned in this chapter. Their listing in the descriptions roughly follows a clockwise sense, starting from the southernmost point of Kristiansand (Vara battery). Red items are in disrepair, whereas blue ones are official tourist destinations.
The Vara battery was built as the core of the strongly fortified area around Kristiansand. Thanks to its position close to the southernmost tip of the Norwegian territory, this port town is still today very busy with passenger and freight traffic from nearby Denmark.
The Third Reich military started to lay sea mines as soon as it gained control of both sides of the Skagerrak strait. The coast around Kristiansand was reinforced with several coastal artillery pieces, and production of a set of special 38 cm caliber guns – called Siegfried -was started by the Krupp ironworks in Essen in 1940. The aim was that of controlling access to the Baltic sea by means of two batteries of long-range naval guns, one to the south in Denmark (Hanstholm, see here), and one to the north in Kristiansand.
The cannons should be capable of revolving by 360 degrees, and special concrete rotundas were prepared for the scope in a location called Møvik, on the southwestern end of the gulf of Kristiansand. The complex morphology of the terrain in this site led to a smaller than desirable area for the battery, where all technical buildings – including ammo storages – had to be built relatively close to one another. These massive constructions alone, built by the same ‘Organisation Todt’ responsible for the implementation of the coastal defense positions all over Europe, make for a remarkable work of engineering, carried out with the help of local builders, working relentlessly around the clock to have these emplacements ready as soon as possible.
In the event, only three of the four Siegfried cannons made their way to the battery in Kristiansand, one being apparently lost when the transport ship carrying it was sunk on the Baltic Sea. Transporting these 110 ton, around 60 ft long barrels by rail from Germany into the narrow valleys of Scandinavia was not an easy task. However, two cannons were test-fired in May 1942, and the third in November the same year.
The battery received the name ‘Vara’, after a high-ranking official killed in Guernsey in 1941.
Battery Vara went through the war without seeing an involvement in any major war action, and was mainly test-fired only. The whole installation, comprising target detection points, analog computers for target aiming, ammo storages – including more than 1.400 shells! – and many other service buildings, was inherited intact by the Norwegian Armed Forces in 1945, similar to many other installations along the coast of the Skagerrak and the North Sea. It was incorporated in the Norwegian coastal artillery between 1946 and 1954, being later placed in reserve having by then become obsolete for Cold War warfare standards. Two cannons were scrapped, whereas one – the only entirely surviving battery Nr. 2 – was luckily kept. The site survived subsequent stages of demolition works over the next decades, but in the early 1990s it was finally re-opened as a museum.
Cannon Nr. 2
Today, the centerpiece of the visit is constituted by a walk around the perfectly preserved building of cannon Nr.2. This bunkerized building is composed of a set of technical rooms, for ammo assembly and storage, as well as for services like Diesel power generators, and an adjoining rotunda, where the big cannon revolved around a pinion, and could be pointed to its target, following instructions from the battery control center. The latter elaborated target data from detection, identification, measuring and range-finding positions scattered around the battery perimeter.
Access to the back of the concrete building is via the original hatch, closed by iron doors. You can see the narrow-gauge railway track leading in. This linked the cannon buildings with the ammo storages around, and allowed to supply the cannon with ammo parts (the explosive cartridge and the shell are not assembled in a single unity for larger cannons, unlike for lighter weapons). The hatch drives you into a long corridor, the backbone of the bunkerized quarters behind the cannon rotunda. Here some shells have been put on the original railway trolley for display.
The cannon building hosted a permanent watch of a few men, which manned it permanently in shifts. A living room with some berths is the only one offering some comfort in the building.
A number of rooms in the bunker are dedicated to the power generator plant. A primary and a back-up generator share the same room. Of special interest are the labels on all machines and mechanisms, proudly made in Germany – in some cases, by brands still existing today.
Electric power was required for the motion of the cannon, besides for smaller appliances like lights and radios. The cannons could make use of the regional grid, but since an unstable supply might have damaged the cannon motors, aiming operations were often carried out on the controlled internal power grid, fed by the generators, and producing an optimal output.
Beside the generator room, the air conditioning plant (not for comfort, but to slightly pressurize the bunker in order to repel and pump-out poisonous or exhaust gas), the Diesel tank and the water tank for cooling the generator can be seen in adjoining rooms.
To the far end of the corridor, a radio room was used to maintain a link with the battery command post, located more than 1 mile away from Vara battery. Actually, by design the electric signals to orient the cannon could be given by the control post, and the radio communication system was there for backup.
On the other side of the corridor with respect to the generator rooms – i.e. towards the cannon rotunda – are four adjoining rooms, used to store the components of the explosive cartridges and shells. The shells and cartridges prepared for firing were moved via a crane to a tray, and from there sent side-wards to the rotunda, where they were loaded on a trolley. The cranes, trays and slots linking these rooms to the rotunda can be found around the area of the bunker closer to the rotunda.
The cranes moved along tracks hanging from the ceiling. These tracks had some switch points, allowing to allow the crane to move across different rooms in the bunker.
Inside these rooms, today you can find much original material of special interest. Specimens of high-explosive (yellow) and armor-piercing (blue) shells are displayed. The weight of the shells was around 800 kg, where the cartridge could feature different weights, roughly from 100 to 200 kg.
The top range of these cannons and shells was around 43 km. Smaller 500 kg shells could alternatively be fired by Siegfried cannons, with a longer range of 55 km. Furthermore, the cannon could be test-fired during drills with smaller caliber shots, by reducing the bore of the cannon. This was a very useful feature, since the estimated loss of barrel metal due to attrition was a staggering 0.25 kg per shot, implying a life of the barrel of only around 250-300 shots, firing with sufficient accuracy. Shooting smaller shells allowed to spare barrel wear and extend the time between overhauls of the cannon.
The sealed canisters for the explosive cartridges, with original markings in German, can still be seen piled in a room!
More material on display includes a rare example of fire direction computer. Actually, that on display is smaller than the one originally used for the long-range cannons of Vara battery, but it provides a good idea of the level of sophistication of this mechanism. Data like target distance, velocity, orientation, wind speed and direction, etc. were set as input to this analog computer, producing fire direction variables to point the cannon. An incredible masterpiece of engineering and craftsmanship, this type of computer is difficult to find in museums, and allows to appreciate the level of development of warfare back in the 1940s.
Data including range of the target was found with the help of special instrumentation. A stereoscopic range-finder was installed in the battery command post, with an arm of 12 m, which allowed good accuracy for very distant targets – required for the long range of the cannons of Vara battery. Smaller instruments with the same principle are displayed in one of the rooms.
Among the special features of this bunkerized building are the restored, original writings from German times, as well as a one-of-a-kind painting made by a Soviet prisoner of war.
From the bunkerized room, you can get access to the rotunda. Cartridges put on trolleys moved along a circular railway track all around the rotunda. This way, cartridges could be taken to the cannon whatever the direction it was pointing. Once to the base of the cannon turret, the explosive charge and the shell were lifted separately by means of two special elevators, up to the level of the gun shutter.
An impressive feature of the rotunda is the ring cover for the circular railway. In order to protect the railway passage from above, while allowing the cannon to rotate, a roof made of thick metal scales was implemented. When revolving around the pinion, the cannon turret would automatically lift the scales on its passage. The sound of the scales being lifted and released while the cannon body was revolving must have been really an experience!
Here the back of the barrel dominates the relatively large firing chamber. The shutter has been left open, so you can see the sunlight through the barrel.
The shell and explosive charge were received from the two elevators on a special tray, and here they were finally aligned one before the other. Somewhat in contrast to the top-notch technology level of the installation, the cartridge had to be pushed from the back into the barrel by hand. A long wooden stick was used for the task. Actually, it was so long that it protruded from the back of the cannon turret, thus requiring a small hatch to be pierced in the metal armor correspondingly. On one side of the barrel, instrumentation for measuring the pointing direction is still in place.
The position of cannon Nr.1 was prepared unusually close to that of Nr.2. As said, this was due to the limited available area on the uneven coast section where the battery was put in place. However, Nr.1 never received a cannon. Conversely, it was modified later in the war, when experimenting with cannon protection from air-dropped high-yield bombs. The rotunda was capped with a very thick concrete roof, sustained by sidewalls which limited the side-wards rotation of the cannon to 120 degrees.
The rotunda can be walked freely. The central pinion is still in place. Inside, the ceiling is covered in original metal panels. The round corridor for the trolleys can still be seen, but there is no access left to the bunkerized part.
Following the railway around the site is a great way to find what remains today of the original installation. There are two bulky ammo storages. These were reportedly more thickly armored than usual, in view of a higher risk of getting hit, due to the unusual proximity with the cannons – designated targets for the enemy.
Furthermore, other smaller buildings are scattered around, which may have served as storage for lighter weapons.
The positions of cannons Nr. 3 and Nr. 4 have been largely demolished, and access is permanently shut to the bunkerized part. However, you can easily climb to the top level, to get a nice view of the rotunda.
Vara is in the top-five list of the most famous surviving installations of the Atlantic Wall in Europe, and a visit to this destination is in itself a good reason for a detour to Norway for war historians and like-minded people. Due to its proximity to the port of Kristiansand, just minutes apart by car, and the relatively easy-to-reach location in the most populated part of Norway, it is also a top destination for any tourist in the area. As a matter of fact, the place is run as a top-level museum, with great reception capability, and is visited by thousands of visitors per year.
Visiting can be performed on a self-guided basis, with an explanation leaflet which allows to get much from your visit, especially if you are not new to installations of the Atlantic Wall (which are mostly standardized, despite Vara having really oversized guns!). A tour of the main features – cannon Nr.2 and the building of Nr.1 – may take 1 hour at least, for an averagely interested person. For an in-depth visit and a quick tour of the premises including other remains, more than 2 hours are needed. Thanks to the exceptional level of conservation and the explanation of whatever is on display, the visit is not boring and may be very rewarding even for younger people.
Large parking on site, picnic tables and warm reception are available – as usual in Norway! Website with full information here.
Nordberg & Marka Batteries – Farsund
Located in the southwestern corner of the Norwegian territory, about 100 miles south of the port of Stavanger, the municipality of Farsund encompasses a number of small coastal villages, around the landmark represented by the lighthouse of Lista.
Two batteries were set up by the German occupation forces as part of the Atlantic wall, both fully operative by 1942. The northern one is called Nordberg fort, where the southern one, very close to the shore line, is known as Marka fort. Between the two, the Germans installed a full-scale airbase, with a runway of roughly 1.5 km, complemented by hangars and shelters largely standing today. Following the end of WWII and the withdrawal of the German military, all these installations were converted for military use by the Norwegian armed forces, which also developed the original airfield into a more modern airbase by stretching the runway.
Today, Nordberg fort is a museum. The German Navy was in charge of the station, which had as centerpieces three 150 mm cannons, with a range of around 23 km. The cannons have been scrapped (with the exception of a lighter piece of Russian make). However, the firing positions are still there, linked by a semi-interred trench.
You can see also the original control point for the battery, developed by the Norwegians more recently, and the concrete base for a radar antenna originally on site.
Several original buildings for services – canteen, hospital,… – are still there, making for a an interesting opportunity to see how this installation looked like back in the 1940s.
The Marka fort was assembled around six 150 mm guns, located very close to the sea, grouped in two batteries of three firing positions each. A huge bunkerized command post was built in the premises of the fort. Today, after the Norwegian military left at the end of the Cold War, the Marka battery is basically a ghost site, despite being still in a relatively good shape.
The control bunker is especially interesting, since you can access the top level and watch the sea from the very same room and windows originally used by the German Navy troops! The general arrangement of the bunker is similar to other command posts you can find on the Atlantic Wall – especially in Denmark (see here).
Marka Battery Lista Farsund – Atlantic Wall – WWII – Norway
Marka Battery Lista Farsund – Atlantic Wall – WWII – Norway
Marka Battery Lista Farsund – Atlantic Wall – WWII – Norway
Marka Battery Lista Farsund – Atlantic Wall – WWII – Norway
Marka Battery Lista Farsund – Atlantic Wall – WWII – Norway
Marka Battery Lista Farsund – Atlantic Wall – WWII – Norway
Marka Battery Lista Farsund – Atlantic Wall – WWII – Norway
Marka Battery Lista Farsund – Atlantic Wall – WWII – Norway
Marka Battery Lista Farsund – Atlantic Wall – WWII – Norway
Marka Battery Lista Farsund – Atlantic Wall – WWII – Norway
The positions for the coastal guns can be reached close to the control bunker. They are uncovered round areas, slightly below the level of the ground, framed by a circular reinforced sidewall.
Marka Battery Lista Farsund – Atlantic Wall – WWII – Norway
Marka Battery Lista Farsund – Atlantic Wall – WWII – Norway
More Atlantic Wall remains, like bunkers, foundations for radar stations, or emplacements for lighter guns, can be be found scattered in the area of Farsund – which kept its military site status well after the Germans had left.
Marka Battery Lista Farsund – Atlantic Wall – WWII – Norway
Marka Battery Lista Farsund – Atlantic Wall – WWII – Norway
Marka Battery Lista Farsund – Atlantic Wall – WWII – Norway
Marka Battery Lista Farsund – Atlantic Wall – WWII – Norway
Marka Battery Lista Farsund – Atlantic Wall – WWII – Norway
Marka Battery Lista Farsund – Atlantic Wall – WWII – Norway
Marka Battery Lista Farsund – Atlantic Wall – WWII – Norway
Marka Battery Lista Farsund – Atlantic Wall – WWII – Norway
Visiting
The museum of Nordberg keeps some of the buildings on the respective site open. However, the majority of the site is open 24 hours, and can be walked freely. A visit may take about 1 hour. A convenient parking can be found right ahead of the modern and welcoming visitor center, from where you can effortlessly reach most of the points of interest in this installation. Website with full information here.
The site of Marka – not part of any museum – can be approached at any time with some walking in the rural area along the coast line. A good starting point for an exploration is here, where you can leave your car and move along an easy trail to the command bunker and the gun rotundas about 0.5 miles west.
Fjell Fortress – Bergen
Bergen was a strategic base of the German Navy, which received a fortified submarine deck among the largest, most active and longest lasting in the history of WWII. The complex morphology of the territory around this port town allowed to effectively protect the access by means of a network of nine firing emplacements. One of them – Fjell – was of exceptional power and range.
It was built between 1942-43 diverting one of the batteries of battleship Gneisenau, which had been damaged beyond repair by an air raid while in port at Kiel (Germany). The battery was composed of three 28 cm guns in a single turret. The latter was very compact in design, a real masterpiece of naval engineering, but nonetheless it featured a rather tall substructure, with all that was needed to operate the guns – protruding from the relatively sleek top of the turret, surfacing on the ground.
Placing this special battery in Fjell required carving the rocky coast, creating a cylindrical underground pit, inside coated with concrete, to host the turret. The turret, an assembly of around 1.000 tonnes with the guns on top, was then transported up to this elevated site, and lowered into the pit. The battery was test fired in the mid of 1943. It acted as an effective deterrent, and reportedly never used in combat.
The battery was incorporated in the Norwegian coastal defense after WWII, and sadly scrapped in 1968, since by then obsolete, but not yet considered an historical landmark.
Clearly, the battery was in the middle of an off-limits military area in wartime, where bunkers for several services and for the the troops, at least two radar antennas and many emplacements for lighter defensive weapons were installed to protect the battery from ground and air attacks.
Today, the bunker-pit where the turret used to rest is the centerpiece of a visit to the site. Starting from the visitor center on top, where the guns used to be, you can descend to the base of the cylindrical pit – roughly 30 ft in diameter and 75 in depth! Here you can see the rooms originally employed for storing the explosive cartridges and the shells for the cannons. These were supplied on trolleys and slides, and sent inside the metal turret, to be lifted up to the level of the cannons for firing.
Most of the original German mechanical and electrical systems is still there to see, including wiring, phones, cranes, trolleys, and examples of shells and cartridges.
Back then, you got access to these storage areas from an entrance on the same level (i.e. not from the top of the turret, but from the base). You can see this entrance, as well as the curved corridor leading from the gate to the ammo storage area. Here, examples of sea mines and other war material can be found. The corridor has narrow-gauge railway track, which was used for resupplying the ammo storage from outside.
The corridor is curved, and firing positions are strategically placed to cover it, in order to counter enemy intrusion.
The bunker gives access to the living quarters for the troops. These are well preserved, and feature brick walls to help insulating the inside from the wet rock of the walls and ceilings.
Services, like toilets, sauna, washing machines and more, are original from the German tenancy. Especially the water basins appear very stylish, a good example of German design from the era.
Besides the main turret bunker, as said the Fjell site offers other constructions on a vast area, which can be checked out from the outside – also since the premises are at least formally military grounds still today.
The road reaching the site from the parking, gently climbing uphill, is reportedly the original main access to the Third Reich site. An interesting tank-stopping device can be seen to the lower end of the road – heavy stones on top of light pillars on the sides of the road. The pillars could be blown, and the stones would fall cutting the road, in case of a potential intrusion.
The fort of Fjell, about 15 miles west of central Bergen, is professionally run as a museum. Parking is only possible to the base of the cliff where the turret used to stand. From there, a 0.8 miles road climbs to the entrance. The scenic location and the nice rural area around make for an enjoyable walk. Visiting inside is only possibly on guided tours, offered also in English (an possibly other languages). A small restaurant can be found on top, where an observation deck has been built in place of the battery.
The location of the parking is here. A visit may take around 45 minutes, excluding the time needed to climb uphill and descend to the parking. Website with full information here.
Tellevik Fort – Bergen
The coastal fort of Tellevik, on the eastern head of the Norhordland Bridge, 15 miles north of Bergen, was part of the lighter defense artillery put in place by the German military to defend any access by water to Bergen. The battery was built by order of the Third Reich, profiting from the forced labor of Soviet prisoners of war.
Lighter howitzers were enough to cover the narrow water passages in proximity of the town. The elevation of the emplacement is low, slightly above the water surface.
The battery of Tellevik was centered on two such howitzers, placed on open-top positions. The two guns can be seen still today, on round concrete firing positions. The giant bridge today largely obstructing the field of sight was not there at the time of the German occupation.
A monument to Norwegian seamen victims to sea mines laid by the German to protect the access to Bergen is concurrently located on the site of the Tellevik battery.
Tellevik is an open air memorial, which can be walked freely 24/7. It can be reached by inputting these coordinates to a GPS navigation app.
A visit may take about 15 minutes, a nice detour from exceptionally crowded downtown Bergen.
Austrått Fortress – Austrått
Similar to Bergen, the major port of Trondheim was a strategic base for the German Navy. Protected by a long firth, the port was an ideal base for submarines and warships, to intercept convoys in the North Sea, Norwegian Sea, the Atlantic Ocean and the Barents Sea. Correspondingly, a number of coastal forts was prepared by the German occupation forces to counter any unauthorized access to the waterways leading to Trondheim.
The most powerful and impressive of these batteries is the Austratt Fort. Similar to the fortress of Fjell near Bergen (see above), Austratt received one of the turrets of the ill-fated battleship Gneisenau, damaged while moored in Kiel, in February 1942. A control and aiming position was put in place a few miles apart along the coast, whereas the battery was surrounded by an off-limits area, stuffed with bunkers for the troops, ammo storage bunkers, and lighter guns for protection against an attack by land.
A major difference between the two ‘sister sites’ of Fjell and Austratt is that in the latter the cannons are still there!
Following the installation of the turret, test fired in September 1943, the fort saw little action, acting as a deterrent, and effectively preventing any serious intrusion by the Allies towards Trondheim from the sea. After the demise of the Third Reich, the fort was taken over by the Norwegian coastal defense, stricken off in 1968, and restored as a museum in the early 1990s.
The cannons are on top of a hill. From the outside, the massive three-barreled turret is really impressive in size!
The barrels can be seen besides the original range-finder – with its impressive arm, granting good measuring accuracy even at a large distance from the target. This item, with its bell-shaped cover, was originally part of the control point, located southwest of the battery, in a location currently very close to an active base of the Norwegian Air Force (Orland).
Despite access to the the firing chamber being possible through a hatch to the back of the turret, the tour follows the way a shell would travel from storage to firing. Hence you start your tour from an entrance to the side of the hill, at the same level of the bottom of the cylindrical tower supporting the guns. This metal tower was taken from the Gneisenau together with the cannons, and put in a pit carved in the rock for the purpose in Austratt.
Access through the side of the hill is protected by a smaller gun. Once inside, you find yourself in a curvy corridor, with a narrow-gauge railway track for the trolleys needed to carry the shells and cartridges inside. A firing position behind an embrassure points against the entrance, for further protection of the site against an intrusion.
The bunker in Austratt – but the same happened to many installations of the Atlantic Wall in Norway – was plagued with severe humidity problems. Immediately besides the entrance, a room with a water basin is fed by natural water dripping from the ceiling and from the rocky walls around.
Original machines for tooling, put in place for maintenance purposes back in the Third Reich years, are still there and working. Similarly, a primary and a backup Diesel generators supplying the fort are still in place, with all ancillary plants, like big Diesel and water tanks for cooling. This is original machinery too, as witnessed by the tags of the mechanical components, all made in Germany.
Living quarters were at the bottom level too. Trying to supply some comfort, the rocky walls were covered with bricks and wood, especially against humidity. These rooms have been partly refurbished with a good resemblance to the original ones. They include the kitchen and some of the sleeping quarters for the troops. However, since humidity was really extreme, troops spent limited time here especially for sleeping, and provisional barracks were built outside of the installation instead.
Hygienic services were reportedly extremely advanced compared to Norwegian standards of the time. Fully working toilets, lavatories and showers were taken as a blueprint by the Norwegian Army after the war. The electric water heater put in place in the Austratt battery was apparently among the first installed in the whole Country – it can still be seen.
Explosive cartridges, fuses and shells arriving from the bunker entry you have walked through at the beginning of your tour would be eventually lifted upstairs. Shells, either high-yield explosive or armor-piercing, would be stored in a chamber featuring cranes hanging from the ceiling, used to put the shells on trolleys. These trolleys transported the shells to the lower level of the turret. The chamber where the shells were stored is physically separated by the turret by means of a concrete wall.
Tight compartments are often found in war bunkers of the Atlantic Wall, and this can be explained by the fact that the deadliest effect of an enemy shot (either a cannon shell from a warship, or an air-dropped bomb) would be that of an overpressure wave (shockwave), capable of killing many in just moments. Overpressure effects can be effectively reduced by putting physical obstacles on the way the shockwave would travel – walls, tight doors, etc. – or by forcing it into smaller passages, like hatches or smaller doors and windows. Therefore, bunkers like Austratt are built in rather small rooms, connected only through narrow hatches and doors.
Again in the storage chamber for the shells, extensive writing in German can be found on many of the mechanisms and electric plants. Everything is original and exceptionally well conserved, just like the Germans had just left!
The lowest level of the turret, where the shells would arrive from the storage chamber to be loaded on elevators going to the upper levels, is a masterpiece of engineering. The technical problem here was that of connecting the slides from the storage chamber, which are anchored to the ground, to the receiving slides on the turret, which could pivot around 360 degrees. The designer of the turret solved the issue by placing an intermediate ring, revolving independently, and capable of connecting the fixed slides from the storage chamber to the revolving platform on the turret. The extremely compact size of the overall design, originally prepared for fitting into a warship, and the elegance and precision of the mechanism resemble those of a pocket watch from the 1920s more than a cannon!
On the turret, you can see three elevators for the three barrels, which were therefore fed independently.
Going upstairs, you meet the storage room for the explosive cartridges. These used to be stored in sealed canisters on display, original from the time. This storage room is placed to the side of the corresponding level in the turret, in a similar fashion to the shells storage below.
Climbing up one more level inside the turret, you reach a platform with the motors for moving the battery around its vertical axis, and for lifting or lowering the three monster barrels. The motion involved high-pressure mechanisms, rather complex and requiring many valves and extensive piping.
To the back of each of the barrels, you can see a large empty volume for recoil. The battery rested on a ball bearing – one of the pretty sizable metal balls is on display.
Finally, the firing chamber can be found on the top level in the turret. Here the shells and cartridges were received, aligned and loaded from the back into the barrels by a pushing mechanical arm. Three independent mechanisms were put in place for the scope in the firing chamber.
You can exit the turret from the hatch to the back of the turret, concluding your tour. In the video below you can see a portrait of the battery from the air, made with a drone.
All in all, similar to the Vara battery (see above), Austratt is in an exceptional state of conservation in the Norwegian and European panorama of artillery engineering from WWII, and a visit may be super-interesting for any public.
Visiting
Despite being relatively close to Trondheim on a map, as usual in Norway, Austratt is a more than two hours drive from the town, and reaching requires taking at least one ferry. However, as noted, this location is a pinnacle in the Atlantic Wall, and surely deserves a visit for technicians and non-technical public as well, and of course for the kids.
Access to the exterior is possible at any time, but visiting inside is only possible on guided tours. The guide is very knowledgeable and makes the visit interesting also for a technically-minded public. The visit inside may take around 1 hour, more if you make questions and show some interest. Convenient parking by the gate of the fort, easy access to the area around the battery. Moving inside can be requiring for non-fit people.
As pointed out in the introduction to this chapter, Norway is rich of memorials from WWII. Even close to some of the attractions in this wonderful Country which are must-see stops for other reasons, features recalling memories from war actions are offered to a curious eye.
Two notable examples are the visitor center of the Arctic Circle along the E6, as well as that of North Cape.
Scandinavia has been a bloody and extremely active theater of war all along WWII, and Norway was directly involved in significant war actions since the first year of the conflict. As a matter of fact, most of the impressive line of fortifications constituting the Atlantic Wall was erected by deploying forced laborers, typically prisoners of war from the Eastern Front, primarily including Russians, other people from the USSR, and Balkan prisoners.
Soviet troops attacked the northernmost German-occupied region from the North, together with the Finns, after the latter negotiated a separate peace with the USSR in late 1944. The retreating Germans opposed a fierce resistance, and it was in this latest stage of the war that most physical damage to towns and installations was caused in Norway, since German troops were ordered to burn up all positions they had to leave.
These facts explain the many Soviet monuments and war cemeteries scattered especially in the northern part of Norway still today – commemorating Soviet soldiers fallen either in war actions or as prisoners of war in the harsh conditions of northern Norway.
One such monument, albeit overlooked, is prominently placed besides the visitor center of the Arctic Circle.
Soviet Memorial – Arctic Circle Visitor Center – WWII – Norway
Soviet Memorial – Arctic Circle Visitor Center – WWII – Norway
Soviet Memorial – Arctic Circle Visitor Center – WWII – Norway
The interest of Germany for Norway was primarily for its strategic position, which became an asset of special value after the start of the war against the USSR in mid-1941. The convoys feeding vital material to the USSR from Britain and the US had to go to Murmansk (see here) and the Kola Peninsula, i.e. over the Barents Sea. This was conveniently controlled by the German occupants, operating from the Norwegian coast.
In the visitor center of North Cape some panels are dedicated to this topic, showing an impression of the structure and routes followed by Allied convoys going to the USSR.
Polar Convoys to the USSR & Scharnhorst Exhibition – North Cape – Nordkapp – WWII – Norway
Polar Convoys to the USSR & Scharnhorst Exhibition – North Cape – Nordkapp – WWII – Norway
Polar Convoys to the USSR & Scharnhorst Exhibition – North Cape – Nordkapp – WWII – Norway
Polar Convoys to the USSR & Scharnhorst Exhibition – North Cape – Nordkapp – WWII – Norway
Polar Convoys to the USSR & Scharnhorst Exhibition – North Cape – Nordkapp – WWII – Norway
Polar Convoys to the USSR & Scharnhorst Exhibition – North Cape – Nordkapp – WWII – Norway
Polar Convoys to the USSR & Scharnhorst Exhibition – North Cape – Nordkapp – WWII – Norway
Detailed panels with maps and pictures recall the last battle of the German battleship Scharnhorst, which was confronted by the group of the British battleship HMS Duke of York, in an epic battle relatively close to North Cape. The massive German battleship, deployed to Norway with Tirpitz (a sister ship of the famous Bismarck) to block the resupply traffic to the USSR, was hit several times and finally sunk in the freezing last days of 1943. The battle was posthumously named ‘Battle of North Cape’. A detailed scaled model of the German battleship is similarly on display in the visitor center.
Polar Convoys to the USSR & Scharnhorst Exhibition – North Cape – Nordkapp – WWII – Norway
Polar Convoys to the USSR & Scharnhorst Exhibition – North Cape – Nordkapp – WWII – Norway
Polar Convoys to the USSR & Scharnhorst Exhibition – North Cape – Nordkapp – WWII – Norway
Polar Convoys to the USSR & Scharnhorst Exhibition – North Cape – Nordkapp – WWII – Norway
Polar Convoys to the USSR & Scharnhorst Exhibition – North Cape – Nordkapp – WWII – Norway
Visiting
The visitor center of the Arctic Circle on the road E6, with a small Soviet monument, can be found here. The monument is open 24/7.
The visitor center of North Cape is… at North Cape! The inside can be accessed during opening times, and the tables with information on WWII convoys and battles are on an underground mezzanine. Website with full information here.
War Museum – Narvik
The port town of Narvik was founded in the 19th century as a commercial base for exporting iron ore from Sweden. A small town by the sea, surrounded by steep-climbing mountains, and in a remote location well north of the Arctic Circle, Narvik was turned for about two months into a though theater of war for the Germans, following their occupation of Norway.
It was here that the British started a battle to stop the German push to the north, as soon as the 10th of April 1940, basically at the same time as the Germans had reached the town during their conquering campaign.
What resulted was a complex, multi-stage operation, lasting until early June 1940.
At first, the British fleet mounted a naval attack, carried out with a flotilla of five destroyers. This force clashed with the local German complement of ten destroyers. The British operation met with mixed success, and was finally repelled by the German navy operating in the narrow waters around Narvik, at the price of two destroyers on each side – plus several cargo ships destroyed in the battle. Three days later, on the 13th of April, a new force, composed of the British battleship HMS Warspite and 9 destroyers, launched another assault, resulting in the complete loss of the German destroyers fleet in the region – German warships were either sunk or scuttled.
The Germans however kept control of the town. A mixed force of British, Polish and French troops, together with the Norwegians, started an operation to conquer the town by land. The operation was successful, and the German troops had to retreat along the coast, away from Narvik. However, the start of the Battle of France – the invasion of France by the Third Reich – on the 10th of May, 1940, resulted in a rapid loss of priority of Narvik as a strategic target for the Allies. It was decided in Britain to withdraw from Norway, and to evacuate all previously landed military forces from Narvik. The town fell under German control on June 8th, basically concluding the conquer of Norway by the Third Reich.
The Allied landings around Narvik in 1940 where the first on the European continent in WWII, carried out without the participation of the US, more than three years before operations in southern Italy or Normandy.
The town of Narvik is still today an active commercial port of primary relevance in the region. The heritage of war actions is preserved in a purpose-installed museum, modernly designed and easy to visit.
On a first floor, the naval operations around Narvik are described by means of technological 3D board with virtual projections – very nice and lively. Around the board, memorabilia from the British and German warships taking part to the operations back in the Spring of 1940 have been put on display.
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
They include an original Nazi eagle from one of the ships. Since the campaign around Narvik included also air and land operations, war traces including parts of aircraft, guns, mortars, machine guns, first-aid kits and many uniforms are also on display.
Uniforms are from the many corps which took part to those actions – they are British, German, Polish and even French.
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
On a second floor, you are offered displays of artifacts retracing other aspects of WWII in Norway. These include land mines – put in place by the Germans along the coast, similar to Denmark, to impede Allied landings – an Enigma coding machine, Third Reich memorabilia, a section of the Tirpitz armored hull, radio machinery supplied to the resistance, as well as personal items belonging to former prisoners of war.
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
Finally, on the last floor heavier weapons are put on display, including torpedoes, light armored vehicles and more, even for post-WWII times.
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
Visiting
The battle of Narvik is one of the best known from WWII in Norway, and the little museum in the town center duly retraces its timeline, through an elegant exhibition, sufficiently rich to satisfy even the most exigent experts, but not so extensive to be boring for the general public. A really well designed museum, surely worth a visit, which may last from 30 minutes to 1 hour depending on your level of interest.
The location is right besides the town hall, and can be found here. Parking opportunities on the street nearby. Website with information here.
Tirpitz Museum – Alta
The German battleship Tirpitz was laid down as the only sister ship to the well-known Bismark. Eventually, she underwent developments which made her the heaviest battleship built in Europe. Her actions were concentrated along a limited time frame, between January 1942 and November 1944, when she was finally sunk by British Lancaster bombers, making use of Tallboy high-yield bombs.
She spent her operative life along the coasts of Norway, where she constituted an effective deterrent against a sea-launched Allied invasion, and was employed tactically against resupply convoys going to the USSR.
Tirpitz was a strategic target for the Allies, which tried to get rid of her by no less than seven war operations, meeting with limited success until the last one.
With an armor more than 30 cm thick, Tirpitz was marginally maneuverable especially at lower speed, but the hull was very difficult to penetrate, and the four turrets and eight 38 cm barrels, plus twelve side-shooting 15 cm barrels, complemented by many more defensive weapons, made it a dangerous asset against land and sea targets.
The ship capsized and sunk in shallow water in the bay of Tromso, and following the end of the war, she was largely dismantled. Original pieces of the ship could be collected, as well as some personal belongings from the crew. Some more were taken out from the water over the years.
The museum in Alta is dedicated to the memory of the ship, and offers an extremely rich collection of items connected with Tirpitz. Furthermore, by means of memorabilia items, it retraces the history of the war years in the northernmost region of Norway – Finnmark. The reason for installing the Tirpitz Museum in Kåfjord, near Alta, is bound to the fact that the battleship was based here for a period, as witnessed by some historical pictures. The museum has a rich guestbook, which includes top-ranking military staff from several Countries.
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
The small museum is home to some of the finest and largest scales models portraying Tirpitz. The level of detail and the accuracy of the reconstruction is really stunning.
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Some smaller diorama models portray scenes from the life onboard, or details of special interest. An unusual one portrays the capsized hull of the ship, following the sinking!
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Besides the scale models, original instrumentation, shells, wooden slabs from the deck, and more parts of the ship are put on display.
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
A room is dedicated to the operations carried out against the battleship. The ship was reportedly attacked several times without substantial damage. One of the attacks was carried out by the British, recurring to mini-submarines. Among the artifacts on display are the decorations to the men involved in these operations.
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Extremely interesting artifacts in the museum include material from the crew, taken away after the sinking over the years – sometimes found in the area as recently as the year 2000.
These include typewriters, cutlery with swastika emblems, musical instruments, sport suits with prominent Third Reich insignia, and many personal belongings.
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
In one case, the cabinet or wallet of a crewman revealed cash and stamps from the time.
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Among the countless items in this exhibition are original material – including radio stations – employed by the resistance movements in Norway, as well as light weapons, uniforms and decorations of the Soviet troops who operated in the Finnmark region, helping in repelling the Germans in the last stages of WWII.
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
On the outside, the anchor and parts of the armor of Tirpitz can be seen, together with an official memorial stone.
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Visiting
The museum is located some five miles from Alta, in the small settlement of Kåfjord. It is hosted in a single, small wooden building – possibly a former canteen – to be found here, with a small parking nearby. A website with full visiting information is here.
Visiting the museum may take from 30 minutes to 1 hour depending on your level of interest.
Vemork Hydroelectric Power Plant & Heavy Water Facility – Rjukan
The nuclear program of the Third Reich is still today a matter for researchers, since – mysteriously enough – most documentation disappeared by the end of the war. Among the ascertained facts were the excellence of nuclear scientist in Germany at the time on the one hand, and the total lack of adequate quantities of raw material, or plants for processing it, to actually build real nuclear weapons on the other.
The latter is witnessed by the great strategic value attributed to the plant in Rjukan, hidden in a scenic deep valley in the region of Telemark, in southern Norway, about three hours by car from Oslo. A hydroelectric plant there – the exact name is Vemork power-plant – was employed to produce heavy water through a dedicated electrolysis separation process, which requires huge amounts of energy. Heavy water is a key component for the production of Plutonium – in turn required for atomic weapons – in heavy-water reactors.
Also the Norwegians understood the value of the plant. As soon as the winds of war started blowing from Germany in early 1940, heavy water then in storage was taken away to France, and later to Britain following the invasion of France by the Third Reich.
After Norway had been occupied by the Reich, the plant was at the center of three sabotage operations. Extremely risky and partly ending in disaster, these operations were carried out both by Norwegian and British staff, parachuted from Britain.
It took until 1944 to mortally hit the plant, well protected by its own natural setting. Two dedicated bombing raids carried out by US bombers damaged the plant beyond repair – at least in the late war scenario, when the Third Reich reaction capacity was weakening every day. The final act in the Norwegian heavy water saga was the sinking of the small boat – named Hydro – loaded with the reserve of heavy water from Vemork, having just started its trip to Germany on Lake Tinn.
The plant was again in business in the years after the war, and remained operative until the early 1990s, involved in production of various chemicals.
Vemork Power Plant Heavy Water Rjukan – WWII – Norway
Vemork Power Plant Heavy Water Rjukan – WWII – Norway
Vemork Power Plant Heavy Water Rjukan – WWII – Norway
Vemork Power Plant Heavy Water Rjukan – WWII – Norway
Today, it is a much visited museum. Actually, the most impressive part of the plant is that of the hydroelectric turbines. Aligned in a single immense hangar, these now silent giant machinery send glimpses of the original, fashionable early-1900 industrial style.
Vemork Power Plant Heavy Water Rjukan – WWII – Norway
Vemork Power Plant Heavy Water Rjukan – WWII – Norway
Vemork Power Plant Heavy Water Rjukan – WWII – Norway
Vemork Power Plant Heavy Water Rjukan – WWII – Norway
Vemork Power Plant Heavy Water Rjukan – WWII – Norway
Vemork Power Plant Heavy Water Rjukan – WWII – Norway
Vemork Power Plant Heavy Water Rjukan – WWII – Norway
Vemork Power Plant Heavy Water Rjukan – WWII – Norway
Vemork Power Plant Heavy Water Rjukan – WWII – Norway
Vemork Power Plant Heavy Water Rjukan – WWII – Norway
Some of the turbines and generator assemblies – manufactured by AEG, as witnessed by the labels – are really huge.
Vemork Power Plant Heavy Water Rjukan – WWII – Norway
Vemork Power Plant Heavy Water Rjukan – WWII – Norway
Vemork Power Plant Heavy Water Rjukan – WWII – Norway
Vemork Power Plant Heavy Water Rjukan – WWII – Norway
Vemork Power Plant Heavy Water Rjukan – WWII – Norway
Vemork Power Plant Heavy Water Rjukan – WWII – Norway
Vemork Power Plant Heavy Water Rjukan – WWII – Norway
Vemork Power Plant Heavy Water Rjukan – WWII – Norway
A suspended platform allows to capture with a bird’s eye the entire hall. Here you can see also completely analog control panels, again in a very elegant style from the era.
Vemork Power Plant Heavy Water Rjukan – WWII – Norway
Vemork Power Plant Heavy Water Rjukan – WWII – Norway
Vemork Power Plant Heavy Water Rjukan – WWII – Norway
Visiting
The museum in Vemork can be reached in less than 3 hours driving from central Oslo. The power-plant can be approached walking from the parking (here) over a suspended bridge crossing the deep valley. The area is very scenic. The highlight of the show is the hall with the power turbines. A visit may take from a few minutes to more than 1 hour for more interested subjects.
A website with full information can be found here.
While almost all nuclear sites you can find in European Countries once beyond the Iron Curtain are today totally abandoned and fairly unaccessible, there exists a perhaps unique exception. The Plokstine site in northwestern Lithuania has been selected around 2010 for complete refurbishment with the help of public money, and in 2012 it has opened its doors as a museum. Located in a beautiful natural setting crowded with hikers – namely Zemaitija National Park, a national recreation area around Plateliai lake – it has quickly grown to international fame, and is now recording several thousands visitors per year, with guided tours in multiple languages – including English – offered on a regular basis during the warm season.
What is today an intriguing tourist destination, used to be part of a large Soviet installation for launching ballistic missiles armed with nuclear warheads. It is worth mentioning that Lithuania was a ‘Soviet Socialist Republic’ in the realm of the USSR, i.e. not just a satellite country of the Soviet Union, but part of it. Actually, this small country on the shores of the Baltic Sea, on the extreme western border of Soviet territory, was an ideal location for deploying weapons to hit European targets from within the Union. Furthermore, the Plokstine forest was – and still is – a little populated area, where construction works for a large top-secret military facility for storing and operating offensive cutting-edge hi-tech warfare would go likely unnoticed.
The missile complex was completed in December 1962, in the years of Khrushchev and Kennedy. The Plokstine site comprises of four interred silos and an extensive underground command station in the middle – the ensemble constituted a so-called ‘Dvina’ launch complex.
The ‘Dvina’ site in Plokstine was actually the last part of the missile base to be built. Two more sister surface sites, with four launchpads each, had been completed one year before, just west of the nearby village of Saiteikiai. These surface sites were similar to those you can find in Latvia (see this post), a neighbor country where unfortunately the last remaining ‘Dvina’ site was demolished in 2017, but abundant traces of the Soviet presence can still be found.
All three launch complexes in this region were designed around the R-12 missile. The R-12U missile was actually used in the underground ‘Dvina’ complex, slightly different from the surface-launched R-12. This weapon was better known by its NATO designation – SS-4 Sandal – and was a 2.3 megaton, single warhead, single stage nuclear missile. It reached true international notoriety before the base in Plokstine was activated, for this was the type deployed to Cuba in the missile crisis of 1962. Coincidentally, part of the staff transferred to Cuba in the days preceding the crisis was from the same rocket regiment of the Red Army (the 79th) stationed in Plokstine. Sandal missiles from here were reportedly transferred in complete secrecy to Cuba, via the port town of Sevastopol in Crimea in that occasion.
The base remained operational until the last missile – by then obsolete – left in 1978.
The Baltics were the first republics to leave the dying Soviet Union, openly defying the military authority of neighbor Russia. After the collapse of the Union and the end of communism in Europe, these three states – which historically do not belong to Russian culture – quickly joined the NATO and European Union, to escape Russian influence as much as possible. Most Soviet military installations were shut down and abandoned, and have been for two decades an interesting destination for explorers and war historians (see this post for many examples). Later on, most sites have been slowly demolished or converted into something else. Really a few of them have been preserved for posterity.
In this post you can find photographs from the Cold War Museum now open in the former ‘Dvina’ site of Plokstine, from a visit in 2017. Close to the bottom, you can find a few further photographs from a previous visit made by appointment in 2009, before the site was selected for renovation – these may be more appealing for Soviet-aura lovers!
Sights
What can be visited today is all in the area of the old ‘Dvina’ complex. The complex is mainly composed of four interred silos, covered by heavy steel & concrete bulged covers, placed on the four corners of a square. These gigantic caps are the most prominent components of the site from the outside. Today, an observation deck has been erected on the south of the area. From there, you can appreciate the distinctive plan of the ‘Dvina’ complex, with an access road terminating in a loop touching all four armored silo covers.
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
The weight of each cover is told to be around 100 tonnes, as it was armored to withstand a nuclear explosion. The covers would be pulled sideward with a sled mechanism, to open the silos before launch. Unmovable missile launch complexes, like the ‘Dvina’ site in Plokstine, were easy and attractive targets for western weapons, thus requiring a very strong defense barrier. Similar considerations led the design of the Titan missile sites in the US, which albeit more powerful and capable of a greater range, are roughly from the same era (see this post).
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
To get near the silos or get access to the museum, you need to pay a ticket and join a guided tour. The visit includes a tour of the Cold War Museum, which has been prepared inside the rooms of the former control center. The tour will start from the visitor center, a new modern building. You will soon go through a specimen of the original fences which ran around the ‘Dvina’ complex, and which included barbed wire and high-voltage electrified lines. Close by, you can find traces of original unarmored constructions, likely service buildings. The missile site was operated by more than 300 troops stationing in a number of smaller centers in the area around the complex.
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
The guide will lead you along a walk around the surface part of the complex, where you can see the construction of the caps from very close. The metal part is very rusty, but the concrete cover has been refurbished and looks like new – a pretty unusual sight, for connoisseurs of Soviet military relics!
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Access to the underground missile service and control center is via a small metal door, right in the middle of the square formed by the four silos.
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
A few rooms in the control center today host the exhibitions of the Cold War Museum. A room displays a quick time-line of the Cold War, since the end of WWII to the end of the USSR. In the adjoining rooms you can find propaganda items
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Another room is about defense against nuclear threat. This is interesting, with many artifacts like dosimeters and medical tools, plus easily readable instructions of ‘dos and don’ts’ in case of nuclear attack.
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Another room is about the evolution of weapons over the Cold War decades, with original material from the time, including heavier tactical weapons.
The exhibition is modern, small but not superficial, and may appeal to any public, including children. Besides the exhibits, you can appreciate the relatively small size of all rooms and connecting corridors in the former control center.
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
As you are driven next to the missile operation part, you can find a scale model of the ‘Dvina’ complex and a cut-out of a R-12U silo, together with a map of the relatively few missile sites in Lithuania – from the map, it can be argued that, for some reason, many more sites were prepared in nearby Latvia.
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Resting quarters for the troops and a communication station with original electronic gear have been reconstructed based on original footage and pics. Communication with the military headquarters was clearly an essential task – it was the only way an order to launch could be issued – and the serviceman on duty was responsible for assuring a permanent link with the chain of command. In other words, he was instructed not to leave his headphones under any circumstances, during a several hours-long shift!
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
On the sides of the corridors you can see holes for the extensive network of cables and pipes. Further on, you meet the most ‘hardware’ part of the exhibition. First, the original diesel-fueled power generator has been refurbished and is standing in its original room. The underground complex was designed not only to withstand a nuclear blast, but also to provide shelter for all servicemen for several days following an attack. This meant air filters, food, water, technical supplies and of course electrical power, were all essential assets. Oil for the generator was stored in a container in an adjoining room.
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Finally, you get access to one of the four silos. You need to go through a tight door opened on the wall of the concrete structure of the control center. Writings in Cyrillic can be spotted on the walls in this area. From there, you will see the cylindrical shape of the metal structure of the silo from the side. This metal canister is really big, the ‘Dvina’ silos featured a much greater diameter than the SS-4 missile they were built for. This was somewhat different from their US counterpart (see this post), where the missile diameter fits the size of the silo without much margin.
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
You can get access to the silo via the original hatch, cut in the metal wall close to the rim on top of the silo, just beneath the external cap. Going through this hatch is incredibly difficult – it is extremely narrow, much longer than the size of a human step, and tilted upwards! It is hard to understand why the Soviets built it in a size so small – this applies to the control center too, for all corridors are really narrow and the ceiling in the rooms is so low you may easily need to bend forward! For those who don’t want to try the original entry to the silo, there is now a non-original door cut in the side of the canister.
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
The inside of the silo can be observed from an original service deck, immediately under the external cover. From here you can clearly appreciate the size of the construction – the missile was more than 70 ft long, and sat here in a vertical position. The SS-4 was among the first missiles to make use of a storable liquid propellant, which allowed it to stay in almost-launch-ready conditions for a prolonged time, if resting in a silo. Nonetheless, the time for opening the armored caps was about 30 minutes, which meant this was not exactly quick to launch. The understructure of the armored caps can be clearly appreciated from inside the silo.
Photographs Before Restoration Works – Ghost Base
When I visited this site for the first time in 2009, it was open only by appointment. Unfortunately, I had only a compact camera at the time, and the very low light inside plus a rainy day outside, meant I could take only a few acceptable pictures.
However, they provide an idea of the state of the ‘Dvina’ complex before it was decided to reconfigure it as a museum.
As you can see, the armored silo caps were in a worse shape than today, yet not heavily damaged. The barbed wire fence around the four silos was probably original Soviet.
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War Old Before Restoration
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War Old Before Restoration
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War Old Before Restoration
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War Old Before Restoration
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War Old Before Restoration
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War Old Before Restoration
Inside, the control rooms were basically empty, except for some communist emblems and flags. Green wall paint and Cyrillic writings could be found even at the time, so what you see today is likely original. The generator, whilst in bad shape, was there.
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War Old Before Restoration
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War Old Before Restoration
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War Old Before Restoration
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War Old Before Restoration
The silo could be accessed only via the original hatch, and except for the partial darkness, its appearance is similar today.
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War Old Before Restoration
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War Old Before Restoration
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War Old Before Restoration
It is out of doubt that the ‘Soviet ghost aura’ of the base was somewhat lost in the restoration process, yet credit must be given to the effort of the local government in preserving a rare and relevant trace of military history through an expensive restoration process.
Getting there and moving around
The Cold War Museum (Šaltojo karo muziejus in the local idiom) is located in the Zemaitija National Park, northwestern Lithuania, east of lake Plateliai. Access is via the road 2302. The place is totally accessible and well advertised locally. Visiting the outside of the armored caps and inside is possible only with a guided tour, offered in many languages including English, and lasting about 50 minutes. No fee is required for climbing on top of the observation deck. Full information through the official website here.
Belarus is exceptional in the panorama of post-soviet countries. Maybe thanks to its geographical location, next to the heart of Europe yet in the closest vicinity of todays Russian Federation, this large piece of almost flat and fertile land is the contact point of two civilizations and ways of life – Russia and core Europe – which merge here in an inexplicable harmony. And this is perfectly reflected in the appearance of its unique capital town – Minsk.
If you have never been there but you are not new to former-communist countries in Europe, what you might expect from the capital of very little-mentioned Belarus, a republic once in the realm of the USSR, is a chaotic town, full of rotting, stripped buildings built with the huge volumes typical to the peripheral areas of Moscow and St. Petersburg, old and smoky Ladas and Chaikas rumbling along rough roads full of puddles, like ten years ago in Sofia or Bucharest (see for instance this chapter). Once there, you will soon understand the picture is really different.
The impression is that of a rich country, with infrastructures right at the level or even above those of western Europe, large and paved roads, modern cars, gas stations everywhere, freshly painted buildings, leveled walkways, colored lights and nightlife.
Of course, the soviet grand architecture is all there. Actually, since Minsk was totally destroyed in 1944, in a fierce battle between the Red Army and the slowly retreating German Wehrmacht – an episode which gained the town the high honor of ‘Hero of the Soviet Union’, still eagerly displayed today – after the war was over, a master-plan for the reconstruction in a perfect Stalinist style was put in place. As a result, Minsk is a rare – perhaps unique – example of a Soviet model-capital from the early Cold War era, when the USSR ruled by Stalin had just triumphed on the stage of a world conflict, and it was setting about to keep up its hold on all eastern Europe. In this sense, at least for a westerner Minsk looks today a town more soviet than others in Russia.
Another element you perceive clearly, not so typical to bigger and way more populated metropolitan areas in the nations of eastern Europe and even in Russia, is a strong sense of order. Nightlife is quiet and not bombastic, cars move around at moderate speed and without creating jams, everything is very clean and calm. Minsk is both busy and quiet, thriving and disciplined – maybe this is just how a soviet capital should have looked like? Belarus suggests how the Soviet Union might have evolved in our days, had it survived its own social and economic failure.
Still today the strong ties with the Russian Federation help feeding the economy on the one hand, but on the other make entering this country a complicated business, like the case is for Russia – anticipated invitations, visas, stringent time frame limitations, … All these rules are gradually being lifted, but the country remains oriented mainly towards its huge eastern neighbor – something you see confirmed looking at the airport timetable in Minsk, from where you can fly to anywhere in Russia, but almost nowhere in Europe. While possibly difficult to deal with, all these controls and bureaucracy help preserving some ‘soviet aura’, which may add to an uncommon travel experience.
This post presents some photographs from central Belarus, taken during a visit to Minsk and some neighbor sites – conveniently reached with a car in less than two hours – in spring 2018.
Map and Visiting
The majority of the sites listed on this chapter can be reached with a relatively short walk from whatever hotel in the city center. Nonetheless, the city is not small and some perspectives are really broad and long. For a more relaxed visit as well as for reaching Khatyn and the Stalin’s Line a car is highly recommended.
Entering the country with a car can be a nightmare, but flying into Minsk and renting a car is indeed possible – I landed in Minsk from Kiev in the Ukraine, and got my car from Avis. Differently from most former countries of the Eastern Bloc, roads are well in line with the highest European standard. Gas stations are abundant, and they accept credit cards. Plus traffic is really well-disciplined, totally different from the Balkan states or even Russia. Parking is generally not a problem, so hop-on/hop-off from your car allows for a time-saving, very effective way of moving in downtown Minsk.
Of course, if you are not planning to go beyond the city limits, you may choose to move around with the public transport system, with a fairly extensive network. Generally speaking, everything is like in the western world from the viewpoint of services, most top-tier western hotels are represented, there are shopping malls with international brands, and so on.
Minsk and its surroundings are unrealistically ordered, you feel perfectly safe both day and night – totally to the other end of the spectrum, compared to other post-soviet cities in eastern Europe.
I spent three full days visiting Minsk and its surroundings, including some historical sites not covered in this chapter, located farther west in the country. I would say this is a good compromise for getting a decent insight of this city.
The backbone of the Stalinist architectural master-plan put in place in Minsk is a multi-miles boulevard called Praspyekt Nyezalyezhnastsi, the longest boulevard in the world at least in Minsk’s tradition, cutting through the most monumental districts and connecting the executive airport to the southwest of downtown to the eastern peripheral belt of the city. The end of the boulevard to the east is not evident, for at some point it changes into a highway, leaving Minsk behind, heading for Smolensk and Moscow.
If you are coming in town from the main airport, located well out of the urban area to the southeast, you are likely to be driven along the full length of this boulevard – with its unpronounceable name.
Along this boulevard, or very close to it, you will meet the majority of the sights described in this chapter.
You may get a really striking impression from this boulevard visiting at night, for every building along it is lighted. The pictures below give some examples.
Minsk Belarus Worlds Longest Boulevard
Minsk Belarus Victory Monument
Minsk Belarus Worlds Longest Boulevard
Minsk Belarus Worlds Longest Boulevard
Independence Square
Locating the actual focal point in the center of Minsk is not easy, but a choice may be Independence Square, once Lenin’s Square – as the name of the underground station recalls. This may be also a trail-head for your tour of the town.
This long and narrow square hides an underground shopping mall. The crystal cupolas on the ground are a distinctive feature of the square. The central monument is centered on the stork as a subject. This bird is not uncommon in this part of Europe, and is the national bird of Belarus.
Minsk Belarus Lenin Square
Minsk Belarus Lenin Square
Minsk Belarus Lenin Square
Minsk Belarus Lenin Square
Minsk Belarus Lenin Square
Minsk Belarus Lenin Square
Minsk Belarus Lenin Square
Minsk Belarus Lenin Square
Minsk Belarus Lenin Square University
Around the square you can find some notable buildings. On the northern side is the Roman Catholic church of Saint Simon and Saint Helena, dating from the beginning of the 20th century, and closed for the long decades of the communist dictatorship.
Minsk Belarus Lenin Square
Minsk Belarus Catholic Church
Minsk Belarus Catholic Church
Minsk Belarus Catholic Church
In the northwest corner it is impossible to miss the huge Palace of the Government, with a prominent statue of Lenin. Similar to Russia, the father of pragmatic communism and of the Soviet Union is still kept in high respect.
Minsk Belarus Lenin Square Statue
Minsk Belarus Lenin Square Statue
Minsk Belarus Lenin Square Statue
Continuing around the square, the tallest building to the west and the adjoining facades on the southern side are all part of the Belorussian State University. To the southeastern corner you can spot an office of the Department of Justice.
Minsk Belarus Lenin Square University
Minsk Belarus Lenin Square University
Minsk Belarus Lenin Square University
Minsk Belarus Lenin Square Court
Minsk Belarus Lenin Square
Minsk Belarus Lenin Square
Central Post Office
Leaving the square along Praspyekt Nyezalyezhnastsi to the east, a first distinctive building is the central post office. The hammer and sickle emblem is still proudly standing on top of the eclectic, soviet-classicism façade. You can find also an interesting clock, looking like a gigantic copy of a vintage radio alarm from the 1960s.
Minsk Belarus Central Post Office
Minsk Belarus Central Post Office
Minsk Belarus Central Post Office
Minsk Belarus Lenin Square Post Office
Minsk Belarus Lenin Square Post Office
Minsk Belarus Lenin Square
Minsk Belarus Lenin Square Post Office
Inside, the small cupola covers a fully functional post office, where also many items of philatelic interest from the Eastern Bloc can be found (they accept credit cards).
Stately apartment and office buildings can be found on both sides of the boulevard as you walk east.
Minsk Belarus Central District Worlds Longest Boulevard
Minsk Belarus Central Buildings
Minsk Belarus KGB Building
Minsk Belarus KGB Building
Minsk Belarus Central Buildings
Minsk Belarus Central Buildings
Minsk Belarus Central District
Minsk Belarus Central District
Minsk Belarus Central District
Minsk Belarus Central District Worlds Longest Boulevard
KGB Headquarters
Yes, the name is correct. It is not an exaggeration. Differently from the Russian Federation, the Belorussian government did not change the name of the world-famous State’s security service since the time of the USSR. The huge building of the headquarters is clearly the same. The façade looks impenetrable and grim.
Minsk Belarus KGB Building
Minsk Belarus KGB Building
Minsk Belarus KG Building
Minsk Belarus KG Building
Minsk Belarus Worlds Longest Boulevard
The shield and sword emblem is still prominently standing on the wooden front door.
Minsk Belarus KGB Building
Minsk Belarus KGB Building
Minsk Belarus KGB Building
Minsk Belarus KG Building
Minsk Belarus KGB Building
The ‘soviet aura’ around here couldn’t be more intense. This building is really magnetic, a living witness of a bygone era.
Cross the street, where a nice boulevard – with the very Soviet name of Komsomolskaya Ulitsa – takes to the south going slightly downhill, you can even spot a bust of Felix Dzerzhinsky, a Bolshevik, Lenin’s friend, revolutionary, and founder of the Cheka – the revolutionary executive repression service, years later to evolve in the KGB.
Minsk Belarus KGB Building Dzerzhinski
Minsk Belarus KGB Building Dzerzhinski
Minsk Belarus Worlds Longest Boulevard
Dzerzhinsky was the armed hand of Lenin, and due to its clear and heavy responsibility in the killing of many of the early victims of the October Revolution, he was put aside even in Russia, his statue being reportedly removed from ahead the Lubjanka, the KGB headquarter in Moscow. The same did not happen in Minsk, possibly because the man was from a noble family from around here.
Crossing with Ulitsa Lenina
Moving on, you will find more buildings with nice soviet-themed friezes and decorations, including the building of the Central Bank of Belarus.
Minsk Belarus Worlds Longest Boulevard
Minsk Belarus Worlds Longest Boulevard
Minsk Belarus Worlds Longest Boulevard
Minsk Belarus Worlds Longest Boulevard
Minsk Belarus Worlds Longest Boulevard
Minsk Belarus Worlds Longest Boulevard
Minsk Belarus Worlds Longest Boulevard
Minsk Belarus Bank Worlds Longest Boulevard
The crossing with Ulitsa Lenina – not unexpectedly – is another focal point of the architectural master-plan. Clearly, here is McDonald’s – probably the neatest in the world!
Minsk Belarus Lenin Street
Minsk Belarus Worlds Longest Boulevard
Minsk Belarus Worlds Longest Boulevard
Minsk Belarus Dzerzhinski
Minsk Belarus Dzerzhinski
Minsk Belarus Art Museum
Minsk Belarus Downtown Buildings
Minsk Belarus Downtown Buildings
Minsk Belarus Downtown Buildings
Minsk Belarus Downtown Buildings
One block to the south from this crossing along Ulitsa Lenina, you can find a house with tons of marble commemorative tablets on the front, where many notable people have lived. They include Felix Dzerzhinsky.
Kastrycnickaya Square
Taking again Praspyekt Nyezalyezhnastsi and going west, you soon find to the north of the road a huge square – Kastrycnickaya Square – with the modern-soviet building of the Palace of the Republic right in the middle. This building was designed in the 1980s and partly built under soviet leadership. Following the collapse of the USSR, construction was halted for years, and the building was completed only in the late Nineties. It is basically an auditorium for artistic performances, conventions and public governmental meetings as well.
Minsk Belarus Palace of the Republic
Minsk Belarus Palace of the Republic
Minsk Belarus Metro Stop Worlds Longest Boulevard
Minsk Belarus Metro Stop Worlds Longest Boulevard
Minsk Belarus Palace of the Republic
Minsk Belarus Metro Stop Worlds Longest Boulevard
Minsk Belarus Metro Stop Worlds Longest Boulevard
Minsk Belarus Worlds Longest Boulevard
To the eastern side of the square the Labor Union Palace of Culture is a great example of soviet classicism, with sculptures adorning the façade and corners of the greek-temple-like building.
Minsk Belarus Labor Union’s Culture Palace
Minsk Belarus Labor Union’s Culture Palace
Minsk Belarus Labor Union’s Culture Palace
Minsk Belarus Labor Union’s Culture Palace
Minsk Belarus Labor Union’s Culture Palace
Minsk Belarus Labor Union’s Culture Palace
Minsk Belarus Labor Union’s Culture Palace
Minsk Belarus Trade Union’s Culture Palace
Presidential Palace
Cross the road there is a garden going gently uphill. There is no car access to the eastern side of the garden, and you can spot the stately, grim front of a building of the Armed Forces – once the Soviet Red Army. Today this is mainly a representative building, featuring also a theater. On the southern side of the park you can find the Presidential Palace, a pure soviet-style monster occupying the majority of the block. You will see policemen discreetly keeping a watch on the area.
Minsk Belarus President’s Palace
Minsk Belarus President’s Palace
Minsk Belarus President’s Palace
Minsk Belarus President’s Palace
Minsk Belarus President’s Palace
Minsk Belarus President’s Palace
Minsk Belarus Hotel President Palace
Minsk Belarus President’s Palace
Minsk Belarus President’s Palace
Minsk Belarus President’s Palace
There are other smaller government-connected buildings around, some with soviet insignia. On a corner of the park there is the Yanka Kupala National Academic Theatre, which for the location and style may be one of the few remains of pre-soviet Minsk in the area.
Minsk Belarus President’s Palace
Minsk Belarus President’s Palace
Minsk Belarus President’s Palace
Minsk Belarus President’s Palace
Minsk Belarus Armed Forces Palace
Minsk Belarus President’s Palace
Minsk Belarus President’s Palace
Minsk Belarus Theater
Minsk Belarus President’s Palace
Minsk Belarus Armed Forces Palace
Television Center and Lee Harvey Oswald’s Home
Again on Praspyekt Nyezalyezhnastsi, the road goes downhill and crosses a small waterway. The area is really nice, and looking northeast from the bridge you can spot the Television Center, with a distinctive tower made of iron beams and likely dating from soviet times.
Minsk Belarus Television Center
Minsk Belarus Television Center
Minsk Belarus Lee Harvey Oswald Home JFK
Minsk Belarus Lee Harvey Oswald Home JFK
Getting close to the center, you see the building right ahead of the tower, still today hosting a TV channel, is just another Soviet neoclassical building, still part of the Stalinist master-plan.
Minsk Television Center Belarus
Minsk City Center Television Center Belarus
Minsk City Center Television Center Belarus
Minsk Victory Monument Belarus
The nice apartment building to the the southern side of the TV channel headquarters has some historical significance, since it was there that Lee Harvey Oswald used to live when he spent some years in the Soviet Union in the Fifties.
Minsk Lee Harvey Oswald Home JFK Belarus
Minsk Lee Harvey Oswald Home JFK Belarus
Minsk Lee Harvey Oswald Home JFK Belarus
Minsk Lee Harvey Oswald Home JFK Belarus
Minsk Lee Harvey Oswald Home JFK Belarus
Minsk Lee Harvey Oswald Home JFK Belarus
Minsk Lee Harvey Oswald Home JFK Belarus
Minsk Lee Harvey Oswald Home JFK Belarus
Much has been said about the intricate plot leading to the shooting of President Kennedy, and the actual part of Oswald will probably remain largely unknown (see this post). Especially his relationships with the USSR are shrouded in mystery, but looking at the building – stately and very nice even for todays standard – the idea that Oswald could live there while being a poor, anonymous worker in a soviet factory does not seem very credible.
House of the First Congress of the Russian Social Democratic Labour Party
This small and modest house belonging to the pre-soviet era was until the end of the USSR a pilgrimage destination from all over the Union. It was here that the embryo of the Communist Party of the Soviet Union, namely the Russian Social Democratic Labour Party, held its first congress. This happened back in 1898, and the reportedly largely unsuccessful meeting was held in secrecy among only a few notable political figures, known as troublemakers to the government of the Tzar.
Minsk House of the First Congress of the Russian Social Democratic Labour Party USSR Communist Belarus
Minsk House of the First Congress of the Russian Social Democratic Labour Party USSR Communist Belarus
Minsk House of the First Congress of the Russian Social Democratic Labour Party USSR Communist Belarus
Minsk House of the First Congress of the Russian Social Democratic Labour Party USSR Communist Belarus
Minsk House of the First Congress of the Russian Social Democratic Labour Party USSR Communist Belarus
Minsk House of the First Congress of the Russian Social Democratic Labour Party USSR Communist Belarus
Minsk House of the First Congress of the Russian Social Democratic Labour Party USSR Communist Belarus
Minsk House of the First Congress of the Russian Social Democratic Labour Party USSR Communist Belarus
Minsk House of the First Congress of the Russian Social Democratic Labour Party USSR Communist Belarus
Minsk House of the First Congress of the Russian Social Democratic Labour Party USSR Communist Belarus
Besides the political-historical interest, the small museum offers interesting memorabilia and furniture from the late Tzar’s era. This house was visited also by communist dictators and dignitaries from around the world, including Nikita Khruschev, Walter Ulbricht and Fidel Castro, whose visits are witnessed by signed documents and photographs.
Victory Monument
Going back to Praspyekt Nyezalyezhnastsi and proceeding slightly farther east, you immediately find an oval square, with an eternal flame and a tall obelisk in the middle. This is the Soviet Victory Monument, celebrating the triumphal march of the Red Army against the invading forces of Nazi Germany. Passing under German control soon after the invasion of the Soviet Union in the summer of 1941, Minsk was hit with extreme violence by the maneuvers of both contending armies three years later, in a crucial battle which opened the Red Army the gate to the last rush through Poland to Berlin. The town was besieged by the Red Army, and as a result of the heavy fighting it was almost leveled when the front line moved west.
Minsk Victory Monument Belarus
Minsk Victory Monument Belarus
Minsk Victory Monument Belarus
Minsk Victory Monument Belarus
Minsk Victory Monument Belarus
Minsk Victory Monument Belarus
Minsk Victory Monument Belarus
The monument celebrates without excesses the sacrifice of many soldiers and civilians in the struggle. Minsk and a handful of other Soviet towns – Stalingrad, Kursk and Murmansk, to name a few – were later decorated with the title of City Hero of the Soviet Union. These towns, which were the stage of as many fierce battles, are remembered here with stones bearing their names.
Minsk Victory Monument Belarus
Minsk Victory Monument Belarus
Minsk Victory Monument Belarus
Minsk Victory Monument Belarus
The monument is particularly striking at night, thanks to the eternal flame ahead of it and the accurate lighting of the buildings nearby making for a nice scenery.
Minsk Belarus Victory Monument
Minsk Belarus Victory Monument
Minsk Belarus Victory Monument
Minsk Belarus Victory Monument
Minsk Belarus Victory Monument
Yakuba Kolasa Square
Further east along the Praspyekt Nyezalyezhnastsi buildings start to look more average, but there are also more nice examples of soviet architecture. You soon meet the Yakuba Kolasa square, with a the philharmonic theater and other office buildings presumably from Stalin’s time or a little later.
Minsk Belarus Philharmonic Building
Minsk Victory Monument Belarus
Minsk Belarus Central Buildings
National Library of Belarus
Closer to the eastern border of Minsk, where big apartment buildings from soviet times as well as more modern ones frame the road, you can find one of the most prominent modern buildings of Belarus, the state’s National Library, dating from 2006. The large glass volume over the main building is nicely lighted at night, but unfortunately I could not get a picture.
Minsk Belarus National Library
Minsk Belarus National Library
Minsk Belarus National Library
Minsk Belarus National Library
Minsk Belarus National Library
Minsk Belarus National Library
Minsk Belarus National Library
Minsk Belarus National Library
Close to this point, the long Praspyekt Nyezalyezhnastsi changes into the M2 highway, leaving Minsk to the east.
Mound of Glory
An incredible Soviet relic lies about ten miles along the M2, right on the interchange with the road leading to the main airport of Minsk a few miles south. This monument is a further celebration of the victorious battle of 1944 against Germany.
Mound of Glory Soviet Victory Monument Minsk Belarus
Mound of Glory Soviet Victory Monument Minsk Belarus
Mound of Glory Soviet Victory Monument Minsk Belarus
It is built in the form of a mound with an assembly of four bayonets on top, representing the cooperation of various armies and local partisans, and a victory crown with the faces of representatives of the branches of the army and of soviet society. The monument is really soviet in style, and while not necessarily esthetically pleasant, is not excessively bombastic either.
Mound of Glory Soviet Victory Monument Minsk Belarus
Mound of Glory Soviet Victory Monument Minsk Belarus
Mound of Glory Soviet Victory Monument Minsk Belarus
Mound of Glory Soviet Victory Monument Minsk Belarus
Mound of Glory Soviet Victory Monument Minsk Belarus
Mound of Glory Soviet Victory Monument Minsk Belarus
Mound of Glory Soviet Victory Monument Minsk Belarus
Mound of Glory Soviet Victory Monument Minsk Belarus
The monument on top of the mound can be reached with a flight of stairs. From there you can enjoy a 360° view of the hilly and relaxing countryside around.
Mound of Glory Soviet Victory Monument Minsk Belarus
Mound of Glory Soviet Victory Monument Minsk Belarus
Mound of Glory Soviet Victory Monument Minsk Belarus
Mound of Glory Soviet Victory Monument Minsk Belarus
Mound of Glory Soviet Victory Monument Minsk Belarus
Mound of Glory Soviet Victory Monument Minsk Belarus
Mound of Glory Soviet Victory Monument Minsk Belarus
Mound of Glory Soviet Victory Monument Minsk Belarus
The monument is lighted at night, but I could not take a picture at that time.
Belorussian State Museum of the History of the Great Patriotic War
This fantastic museum alone may easily justify a trip to Minsk! It is hosted in a building prepared on purpose, overlooking a huge green area in the city center. At the base of the hill you can spot a kind of triumphal arch, presumably built with the main building itself and forming an interesting ensemble.
Belarus Museum of the Great Patriotic War Minsk WWII Red Army Soviet
Belarus Museum of the Great Patriotic War Minsk WWII Red Army Soviet
Belarus Museum of the Great Patriotic War Minsk WWII Red Army Soviet
Belarus Museum of the Great Patriotic War Minsk WWII Red Army Soviet
Belarus Museum of the Great Patriotic War Minsk WWII Red Army Soviet
Belarus Museum of the Great Patriotic War Minsk WWII Red Army Soviet
Belarus Museum of the Great Patriotic War Minsk WWII Red Army Soviet
Belarus Museum of the Great Patriotic War Minsk WWII Red Army Soviet
Belarus Museum of the Great Patriotic War Minsk WWII Red Army Soviet
Belarus Museum of the Great Patriotic War Minsk WWII Red Army Soviet
Belarus Museum of the Great Patriotic War Minsk WWII Red Army Soviet
The always growing collection relocated from a previous venue, where it had been opened to the public back in 1944, before the war had ended! By the way, the Great Patriotic War is WWII in the Soviet/Russian culture. Website here.
The collection is really huge, with rooms devoted to the many major battles fought by the Red Army in WWII. There are tons of memorabilia, including a very good collection of light weapons, and even a few larger crafts – tanks, aircraft, Katyusha rocket launchers, anti-aircraft guns, field cannons, …
Belarus Museum of the Great Patriotic War Minsk WWII Red Army Soviet
Belarus Museum of the Great Patriotic War Minsk WWII Red Army Soviet
Belarus Museum of the Great Patriotic War Minsk WWII Red Army Soviet
Belarus Museum of the Great Patriotic War Minsk WWII Red Army Soviet
Belarus Museum of the Great Patriotic War Minsk WWII Red Army Soviet
Belarus Museum of the Great Patriotic War Minsk WWII Red Army Soviet
Belarus Museum of the Great Patriotic War Minsk WWII Red Army Soviet
Belarus Museum of the Great Patriotic War Minsk WWII Red Army Soviet
Belarus Museum of the Great Patriotic War Minsk WWII Red Army Soviet
Belarus Museum of the Great Patriotic War Minsk WWII Red Army Soviet
Belarus Museum of the Great Patriotic War Minsk WWII Red Army Soviet
Belarus Museum of the Great Patriotic War Minsk WWII Red Army Soviet
Belarus Museum of the Great Patriotic War Minsk WWII Red Army Soviet
Belarus Museum of the Great Patriotic War Minsk WWII Red Army Soviet
Belarus Museum of the Great Patriotic War Minsk WWII Red Army Soviet
Belarus Museum of the Great Patriotic War Minsk WWII Red Army Soviet
Belarus Museum of the Great Patriotic War Minsk WWII Red Army Soviet
Belarus Museum of the Great Patriotic War Minsk WWII Red Army Soviet
Belarus Museum of the Great Patriotic War Minsk WWII Red Army Soviet
Belarus Museum of the Great Patriotic War Minsk WWII Red Army Soviet
Belarus Museum of the Great Patriotic War Minsk WWII Red Army Soviet
Belarus Museum of the Great Patriotic War Minsk WWII Red Army Soviet
Belarus Museum of the Great Patriotic War Minsk WWII Red Army Soviet
Belarus Museum of the Great Patriotic War Minsk WWII Red Army Soviet
Belarus Museum of the Great Patriotic War Minsk WWII Red Army Soviet
Belarus Museum of the Great Patriotic War Minsk WWII Red Army Soviet
Belarus Museum of the Great Patriotic War Minsk WWII Red Army Soviet
Belarus Museum of the Great Patriotic War Minsk WWII Red Army Soviet
Belarus Museum of the Great Patriotic War Minsk WWII Red Army Soviet
Belarus Museum of the Great Patriotic War Minsk WWII Red Army Soviet
Belarus Museum of the Great Patriotic War Minsk WWII Red Army Soviet
Belarus Museum of the Great Patriotic War Minsk WWII Red Army Soviet
Belarus Museum of the Great Patriotic War Minsk WWII Red Army Soviet
Belarus Museum of the Great Patriotic War Minsk WWII Red Army Soviet
Belarus Museum of the Great Patriotic War Minsk WWII Red Army Soviet
Belarus Museum of the Great Patriotic War Minsk WWII Red Army Soviet
Belarus Museum of the Great Patriotic War Minsk WWII Red Army Soviet
Belarus Museum of the Great Patriotic War Minsk WWII Red Army Soviet
Belarus Museum of the Great Patriotic War Minsk WWII Red Army Soviet
Belarus Museum of the Great Patriotic War Minsk WWII Red Army Soviet
Belarus Museum of the Great Patriotic War Minsk WWII Red Army Soviet
Similar to other museums in the USSR, it is packed with material from Nazi Germany, which by comparison cannot be found in Germany, nor in this measure in western Europe or the US. Among the countless items, you can find also display cases devoted to soviet war spies in the west, modern dioramas and uniforms from the time.
Belarus Museum of the Great Patriotic War Minsk WWII Red Army Soviet
Belarus Museum of the Great Patriotic War Minsk WWII Red Army Soviet
Belarus Museum of the Great Patriotic War Minsk WWII Red Army Soviet
Belarus Museum of the Great Patriotic War Minsk WWII Red Army Soviet
Belarus Museum of the Great Patriotic War Minsk WWII Red Army Soviet
Belarus Museum of the Great Patriotic War Minsk WWII Red Army Soviet
Belarus Museum of the Great Patriotic War Minsk WWII Red Army Soviet
Belarus Museum of the Great Patriotic War Minsk WWII Red Army Soviet
Belarus Museum of the Great Patriotic War Minsk WWII Red Army Soviet
Belarus Museum of the Great Patriotic War Minsk WWII Red Army Soviet
Belarus Museum of the Great Patriotic War Minsk WWII Red Army Soviet
Belarus Museum of the Great Patriotic War Minsk WWII Red Army Soviet
Belarus Museum of the Great Patriotic War Minsk WWII Red Army Soviet
Belarus Museum of the Great Patriotic War Minsk WWII Red Army Soviet
Belarus Museum of the Great Patriotic War Minsk WWII Red Army Soviet
Belarus Museum of the Great Patriotic War Minsk WWII Red Army Soviet
Belarus Museum of the Great Patriotic War Minsk WWII Red Army Soviet
Belarus Museum of the Great Patriotic War Minsk WWII Red Army Soviet
On the top floor there is a large modern commemorative installation, with the names of fallen soldiers, and hammer and sickle insignia. This installation is recent – or recently refurbished – so the presence of abundant Soviet symbolism produces a strange ‘dystopia effect’.
Belarus Museum of the Great Patriotic War Minsk WWII Red Army Soviet
Belarus Museum of the Great Patriotic War Minsk WWII Red Army Soviet
Belarus Museum of the Great Patriotic War Minsk WWII Red Army Soviet
Belarus Museum of the Great Patriotic War Minsk WWII Red Army Soviet
Belarus Museum of the Great Patriotic War Minsk WWII Red Army Soviet
Outside, on top of the building you can find a further monument, with an obelisk, some sculptures, and a Red Banner waving above the cupola. Behind, there is a Lisunov Li-2, a licensed USSR-built Douglas C-47.
Belarus Museum of the Great Patriotic War Minsk WWII Red Army Soviet
Belarus Museum of the Great Patriotic War Minsk WWII Red Army Soviet
Belarus Museum of the Great Patriotic War Minsk WWII Red Army Soviet
Belarus Museum of the Great Patriotic War Minsk WWII Red Army Soviet
Belarus Museum of the Great Patriotic War Minsk WWII Red Army Soviet
Belarus Museum of the Great Patriotic War Minsk WWII Red Army Soviet
Belarus Museum of the Great Patriotic War Minsk WWII Red Army Soviet
Belarus Museum of the Great Patriotic War Minsk WWII Red Army Soviet
Belarus Museum of the Great Patriotic War Minsk WWII Red Army Soviet
Belarus Museum of the Great Patriotic War Minsk WWII Red Army Soviet
Belarus Museum of the Great Patriotic War Minsk WWII Red Army Soviet
Belarus Museum of the Great Patriotic War Minsk WWII Red Army Soviet
Belarus Museum of the Great Patriotic War Minsk WWII Red Army Soviet
Belarus Museum of the Great Patriotic War Minsk WWII Red Army Soviet
Belarus Museum of the Great Patriotic War Minsk WWII Red Army Soviet
Belarus Museum of the Great Patriotic War Minsk WWII Red Army Soviet
Minsk hosts an excellent aviation-themed museum, centered on warplanes and transport aircraft from the soviet era. This is covered in this dedicated chapter.
Palace of Independence
This palace not far to the back from the Museum of the Great Patriotic War is apparently another building of the Government or where the president lives – not very clear. On the rare occasions when Belarus is mentioned internationally, this is what appears on TV. It is very big and carefully watched, so the only pictures I could get were from cross the road.
Minsk Belarus President’s Palace
Minsk Belarus President’s Palace
Zamcyska District
This central district is located roughly between the KGB building and the Museum of the Great Patriotic War. It features a large and nice pond in the middle. Here some of the few remaining notable buildings from pre-soviet age in Minsk can be found. The main group is composed of a handful of churches making for a nice sight on a low hill to the south of the pond.
Minsk Belarus City Hall
Minsk City Center Trinity Hill Belarus
Minsk City Center Trinity Hill Belarus
Minsk City Center Trinity Hill Belarus
Minsk City Center Trinity Hill Belarus
Minsk City Center Trinity Hill Belarus
Minsk City Center Trinity Hill Belarus
Minsk City Center Trinity Hill Belarus
Minsk Belarus Lenin Street Catholic Church
Minsk Belarus Lenin Street Catholic Church
Minsk Belarus Lenin Street Catholic Church
There are an Orthodox and two Catholic churches, surrounding the old city hall. The area is really nice to tour, and at night it is very lively and fully lighted.
Minsk City Center Trinity Hill Belarus
Minsk City Center Trinity Hill Belarus
Minsk City Center Trinity Hill Belarus
Minsk City Center Trinity Hill Belarus
Minsk City Center Trinity Hill Belarus
Minsk City Center Trinity Hill Belarus
Minsk City Center Trinity Hill Belarus
Minsk City Center Trinity Hill Belarus
Minsk City Center Trinity Hill Belarus
Minsk City Center Trinity Hill Belarus
Minsk City Center Trinity Hill Belarus
Close by, the Trinity Hill displays some rebuilt or refurbished buildings from the 18th century or earlier, giving an idea of how Minsk would have looked had it not been totally destroyed. Also this district is very picturesque at night, definitely a nice place for a relaxed stroll.
To the far end of the pond you can spot an unimaginable residential building, with a façade roughly as long as an airport, made a little more digestible when lighted at night.
Minsk Belarus City Center City Hall Trinity Hill
Minsk Belarus City Center Church Trinity Hill
Minsk Belarus City Center Trinity Hill
Minsk Belarus City Center Trinity Hill
Minsk Belarus City Center Trinity Hill
Minsk Belarus City Center Trinity Hill
Minsk Belarus City Center Trinity Hill
Minsk Belarus City Center Trinity Hill
Minsk Belarus City Center Trinity Hill
Minsk Belarus City Center Trinity Hill
Minsk Belarus City Center Trinity Hill
Minsk Belarus City Center Trinity Hill
Minsk Belarus City Center Trinity Hill
Minsk Belarus City Center Trinity Hill
Minsk Belarus City Center Trinity Hill
Minsk Belarus City Center Trinity Hill
Minsk Belarus Palace of the Republic
In the same area there are a large soviet-themed metallic sculpture on the front of a building, and multiple huge banners in neon lights with celebration exclamations and slogans.
Minsk Belarus City Center Trinity Hill
Minsk Belarus Lenin Street
Minsk Belarus City Center Trinity Hill
Minsk Belarus Lenin Street
…More!
The city is full of majestic perspectives and interesting buildings. One of them is the totally ‘Stalin’s gothic’ Gate of Minsk, right behind the central railway station. It is composed of two bulky towers, with the façade adorned in a way resembling Kutuzovsky Alley in Moscow, or Karl-Marx-Allee in Berlin, two eminent examples of this style. See this chapter for more examples of this iconic architecture.
Minsk Belarus Gate of Minsk Railway Stalin’s Gothic
Minsk Belarus Gate of Minsk Railway Stalin’s Gothic
Minsk Belarus Gate of Minsk Railway Stalin’s Gothic
Minsk Belarus Gate of Minsk Railway Stalin’s Gothic
There are also churches dating back to before the USSR era, or rebuilt after it. One of them is quite central, and surrounded by an Orthodox cemetery still used today.
Minsk Belarus City Center Church
Minsk Belarus City Center Church
Minsk Belarus City Center Church
Minsk Belarus City Center Church
Minsk Belarus City Center Church
Minsk Belarus City Center Church
Minsk Belarus City Center Church
Minsk Belarus City Center Church
To the west, the peripheral belt has been built functionally, with large infrastructures but also very big – let’s say, excessively big! – apartment buildings, in a style which is typical to post-soviet countries. Yet, as previously observed, even these areas do not look degraded, but on the contrary rather well looked after and actively maintained.
Minsk Belarus City Peripheral Buildings
Minsk Belarus City Peripheral Buildings
Minsk Belarus City Peripheral Buildings
Minsk Belarus City Peripheral Buildings
Minsk Belarus City Peripheral Buildings
Minsk Belarus City Peripheral Buildings
Minsk Belarus
Minsk Belarus
Minsk Belarus
Minsk Belarus
Minsk Belarus
Sights around Minsk
Khatyn
Much confusion exists about this location, which is actually where the forces of Nazi Germany burned an entire village with its occupants back in 1943. By chance – or may be not – in a place with the same name but some 100 miles to the east in Russian territory the NKVD (later to evolve in the KGB) by direct order of Stalin had deported and mass executed a substantial quota of the officials of the Polish Army – in the order of the thousands – in 1940. The responsibility for this tragedy was fully recognized by Russia only after the end of the USSR.
The memorial in (Belorussian) Khatyn is a celebration monument made in the 1960s to remember the local tragedy with typical soviet pomp, with statues, stonewall retracing the area of the village and stones with inscriptions.
Khatyn Memorial Minsk Belarus
Khatyn Memorial Minsk Belarus
Khatyn Memorial Minsk Belarus
Khatyn Memorial Minsk Belarus
Khatyn Memorial Minsk Belarus
Khatyn Memorial Minsk Belarus
Khatyn Memorial Minsk Belarus
Khatyn Memorial Minsk Belarus
There are also bells producing a sad rhythmical tone. The place stands as a memorial of all similar horrible episodes for which the Nazis are responsible.
Khatyn Memorial Minsk Belarus
Khatyn Memorial Minsk Belarus
Khatyn Memorial Minsk Belarus
Khatyn Memorial Minsk Belarus
Khatyn Memorial Minsk Belarus
Khatyn Memorial Minsk Belarus
Khatyn Memorial Minsk Belarus
Khatyn Memorial Minsk Belarus
Khatyn Memorial Minsk Belarus
Khatyn Memorial Minsk Belarus
This location is very popular since the Cold War years, and it still attracts many visitors from Belarus and nearby Russia these days. There is also a very small indoor museum, which I had not the chance to visit.
Stalin’s Line History and Heritage Museum
Similar to other countries in the inter-war period – for instance, France and Czechoslovakia – the Soviet Union invested in the preparation of a long defensive line, to fortify the western border against an invasion from central Europe. The name of the USSR’s defensive line, which passed close to Minsk, was ‘Stalin’s Line’.
This was composed of a backbone of reinforced concrete bunkers, with a capability to withstand fire from the tanks of the enemy’s armored divisions. In these bunkers, often prepared in groups of interconnected pillboxes, anti-tank cannons and machine guns were installed for effectively counteract an invasion.
The strongholds of the line were surrounded by various obstacles, including anti-tank obstacles, barbed wire traps and so on.
Construction of the Stalin’s Line was interrupted after the Ribbentrov-Molotov agreement between the USSR and Hitler’s Germany in 1939. The unfinished line turned little effective in containing the surprise aggression by the Wehrmacht in 1941, when the country fell under German controls.
Nonetheless, parts of this line are duly preserved as monuments. The Stalin’s Line History and Heritage Museum is centered on one such fort, which can be visited thoroughly. The inside of most of the bunkers have been restored to a mint condition, and are really interesting to visit.
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
The size of the rooms in the bunkers is generally smaller than the French, Czechoslovakian or Finnish counterparts. All bunkers are painted in a camo coating.
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
The museum presents also a reproduction of the border line with the Soviet Union, with a watchtower, anti-penetration barriers and green-red posts with the emblem of the USSR. In the same area, a collection of turrets from more countries is displayed.
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
A second, very large part of the museum is composed of a world’s class collection of weapons, dating from various ages from WWII and the Cold War, and providing an insight on the USSR’s warfare capabilities.
On a first apron there are field cannons, motorized cannons, rocket-launchers and armored vehicles. Close by, you can try shooting with a machine gun or even an anti-tank cannon! This unique feature of the museum makes it very lively, for you are often distracted by the loud bang of a firing weapon!
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
In another area you can spot a group of soviet aircraft and helicopters, a steam locomotive, and a full array of prefabricated structures, intended to be buried to form bunkers with various purposes – missile storage, interred barracks, … These are extremely interesting, as you can see here the actual shape of the items often found elsewhere in the former Eastern Bloc, typically in abandoned bases covered in other chapters (see for instance this chapter).
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
Furthermore, there are both tactical and strategic missiles with their launching and monitoring equipment. Of particular interest is the SS-4 ‘Stiletto’
– involved in the Cuban crisis of 1962 – with its launching gantry. Notice the rig anchoring the gantry to the ground – you can find similar items even in Germany (see for instance this chapter), witnessing the deployment of this type of missile in eastern Europe.
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
Finally, if you dare, you can enjoy a run on an armored vehicle. The place is reportedly active with reenactments, and actually you can find a good reconstruction of a theater of war from the WWII years.
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
A striking feature, a recent bust of Stalin has been placed in the parking – close by an Orthodox chapel, to suitably exorcise his deadly presence.
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
Stalin Line Minsk Belarus
The place is managed like a top class museum, and reportedly there are many visitors, also due to the close proximity with Minsk. Website with full information here.
A nice and lively university town in the heart of the Estonian countryside, Tartu has really something for every kind of tourist – including those interested in aviation history. The Estonian Aviation Museum, or ‘Eeesti Lennundusmuuseum’ as they write it in the tricky local idiom, boasts a substantial and heterogenous collection of aircraft preserved in exceptionally good condition, which will not leave indifferent even the most knowledgeable aviation expert.
Having being for long a socialist republic in the realm of the Soviet Union – and today sharing a border with Russia – Estonia had access to massive surplus reserves after the end of the Cold War, so it is no surprise that Soviet aircraft are well represented in an Estonian museum. This already might appeal to western tourists, for the exotic, menacing silhouettes of MiGs and Sukhois are not often to be found except in less accessible spots in the former Eastern Bloc. Yet some more unexpected and rare models have been added over the years, including some SAAB aircraft from Sweden which are authentic collectibles.
The following photographs cover almost every plane that was there in summer 2017.
Sights
Most part of the collection has been preserved in a cleverly designed structure, made of small open-walled hangars with translucent canopies. The aircraft are illuminated by natural light, helping much when taking pictures, but they are not exposed to direct sunlight, rain or snow, which tend to damage both metal and plexiglas on the long run. Furthermore, the lack of doors and frames allows you to move around freely, and the place is not suffocating nor excessively warm.
The aircraft are basically all from the Cold War era, but some of them have outlived the end of the USSR and were retired more recently. The portraits are grouped here roughly based on the nationality of the manufacturers or aircraft mission.
Designs from the US
The American production is represented in this museum firstly by a McDonnell Douglas F-4 Phantom II, operated by the West-German Luftwaffe. The General Electric J79 turbojets have been taken out of the airframe, so you can see them separately.
McDonnell Douglas F-4 Phantom
McDonnell Douglas F-4 Phantom
McDonnell Douglas F-4 Phantom
McDonnell Douglas F-4 Phantom with J79 engine
A pretty unusual sight, also the antenna and electronic group in the nose cone have been taken out and are on display. This Phantom is a F-4F, a version specifically developed for West Germany from the basic F-4E. The former inventory number was 99+91.
McDonnell Douglas F-4 Phantom Radar Avionic Targeting
McDonnell Douglas F-4 Phantom Radar Avionic Targeting
McDonnell Douglas F-4 Phantom Radar Avionic Targeting
McDonnell Douglas F-4 Phantom Radar Avionic Targeting
Another iconic model on the menu is a Lockheed F-104 Starfighter, formerly from the Italian Air Force. This exemplar is actually an Italian-built ‘S’ version, and among the latest to be retired by the Aeronautica Militare. The engine, again a J79, is on display elsewhere in the museum. An unusual crowd of instruction and warning stencils populate the external surface of the aircraft.
Lockheed F-104 Starfighter Italian Air Force
Lockheed F-104 Starfighter Italian Air Force
Lockheed F-104 Starfighter Italian Air Force
Lockheed F-104 Starfighter Italian Air Force
Lockheed F-104 Starfighter Italian Air Force
Lockheed F-104 Starfighter Italian Air Force
Lockheed F-104 Starfighter Italian Air Force
Soviet Military Models
The majority of the aircraft on display were designed in the Soviet Union or other countries of the Warsaw Pact.
Two aggressive aircraft include a MiG-21 and a MiG-23. The first, present here in the colors of the Polish Air Force, is a MiG-21bis Fishbed, the latest development of this fast delta-wing fighter/light-interceptor.
MiG-21 Fishbed Polish Air Force
MiG-21 Fishbed Polish Air Force
MiG-21 Fishbed Polish Air Force
Possibly one of the most ubiquitous fighters of the jet age, the MiG-23 Flogger is part also of this collection. The aircraft you see in the pictures is a MLD variant, representing the last upgrade of this iconic fighter, which was also the basis for the very successful MiG-27 design.
MiG-23 Flogger Ukrainian Air Force
MiG-23 Flogger Ukrainian Air Force
MiG-23 Flogger Ukrainian Air Force
MiG-23 Flogger Ukrainian Air Force Tumansky R27
MiG-23 Flogger Ukrainian Air Force
It bears the markings of the Ukrainian Air Force, therefore it is likely an ex-USSR aircraft. The engine is sitting besides the aircraft, and two rocket canisters are placed beneath the fuselage, close to the ventral GSh-23 twin-barreled cannon.
MiG-23 Flogger Ukrainian Air Force
MiG-23 Flogger Ukrainian Air Force
MiG-23 Flogger Ukrainian Air Force
MiG-23 Flogger Ukrainian Air Force
MiG-23 Flogger Ukrainian Air Force
MiG-23 Flogger Ukrainian Air Force
MiG-23 Flogger Ukrainian Air Force
MiG-23 Flogger Ukrainian Air Force
A less usual sight is a MiG-25 Foxbat, a super fast interceptor/recce aircraft. Conceived in the late Fifties when the race for speed was in full swing, it was developed into a high performance platform to counteract the threat of the SR-71 Blackbird. It was built around two massive Tumansky R-15 afterburning turbojets, rated at a pretty high wet thrust of 110 kN, resulting in an incredible top speed around Mach 3.2! The aircraft is pretty sizable, and you can appreciate that looking at the picture of the main landing gear – search for the cover of my Canon wide lens close to the ground and compare sizes!
MiG-25 Foxbat Red Army Tartu Estonia
MiG-25 Foxbat Red Army Tartu Estonia
MiG-25 Foxbat Red Army Tartu Estonia
MiG-25 Foxbat Red Army Tartu Estonia
MiG-25 Foxbat Red Army Tartu Estonia
The menacing silhouette of this huge bird, with red stars on the vertical fins and a bare metal fuselage, will likely make relive in you an ‘Iron Curtain feeling’!
MiG-25 Foxbat Red Army Tartu Estonia
MiG-25 Foxbat Red Army Tartu Estonia
MiG-25 Foxbat Red Army Tartu Estonia
MiG-25 Foxbat Red Army Tartu Estonia
MiG-25 Foxbat Red Army Tartu Estonia
MiG-25 Foxbat Red Army Tartu Estonia
MiG-25 Foxbat Red Army Tartu Estonia
One which will not go unnoticed is a Polish Air Force Sukhoi Su-22M4 Fitter in a flamboyant, very colored livery. This massive fighter-bomber represents the export version of the Su-17M4 built by the USSR for domestic orders.
Sukhoi Su-22 Fitter Polish Air Force
Sukhoi Su-22 Fitter Polish Air Force
Sukhoi Su-22 Fitter Polish Air Force
Sukhoi Su-22 Fitter Polish Air Force
Sukhoi Su-22 Fitter Polish Air Force
Sukhoi Su-22 Fitter Polish Air Force
Despite the shape, roughly similar to that of the MiG-21 also on display, the size of this aircraft is much bigger – you might think of Su-22 as a case for a MiG-21…
Sukhoi Su-22 Fitter Polish Air Force
Sukhoi Su-22 Fitter Polish Air Force
Sukhoi Su-22 Fitter Polish Air Force
Sukhoi Su-22 Fitter Polish Air Force
Sukhoi Su-22 Fitter Polish Air Force
Sukhoi Su-22 Fitter Polish Air Force
Sukhoi Su-22 Fitter Polish Air Force
Soviet bombers are represented by a pretty rare Sukhoi Su-24 Fencer, which is today still in service in Russia. The example on display bears the markings of the Ukrainian Air Force, meaning it was once a Soviet aircraft.
Sukhoi Su-24 Fencer Ukrainian Air Force (ex-Soviet Red Army)
Sukhoi Su-24 Fencer Ukrainian Air Force (ex-Soviet Red Army)
Sukhoi Su-24 Fencer Ukrainian Air Force (ex-Soviet Red Army)
Sukhoi Su-24 Fencer Ukrainian Air Force (ex-Soviet Red Army)
Sukhoi Su-24 Fencer Ukrainian Air Force (ex-Soviet Red Army)
Sukhoi Su-24 Fencer Ukrainian Air Force (ex-Soviet Red Army)
Sukhoi Su-24 Fencer Ukrainian Air Force (ex-Soviet Red Army)
Sukhoi Su-24 Fencer Ukrainian Air Force (ex-Soviet Red Army)
This massive twin-engined beast outsizes all other military aircraft on display. The aircraft is on display with three support tanks under the fuselage and the inner wing pylons.
Sukhoi Su-24 Fencer Ukrainian Air Force (ex-Soviet Red Army)
Sukhoi Su-24 Fencer Ukrainian Air Force (ex-Soviet Red Army)
Sukhoi Su-24 Fencer Ukrainian Air Force (ex-Soviet Red Army)
Sukhoi Su-24 Fencer Ukrainian Air Force (ex-Soviet Red Army)
Sukhoi Su-24 Fencer Ukrainian Air Force (ex-Soviet Red Army)
Sukhoi Su-24 Fencer Ukrainian Air Force (ex-Soviet Red Army)
Sukhoi Su-24 Fencer Ukrainian Air Force (ex-Soviet Red Army)
Sukhoi Su-24 Fencer Ukrainian Air Force (ex-Soviet Red Army)
A less common sight is a Yakovlev Ya-28P Firebar, a long-range intercept version of this multi-role platform from the early Sixties. This design is very interesting, with a four-points undercarriage and a very long nose cone, where a radar system for a target-tracking and missile guidance system was located. The two turbojet engines are mounted in cigar-shaped underwing pods. The relevant sweep of the wing suggests a significant speed capability, yet many variants of this aircraft were developed to exploit also its good range performance. The antenna originally placed in the nose cone is on display besides the aircraft, which bears original Soviet markings.
Yakovlev Yak-28 Brewer-E Soviet
Yakovlev Yak-28 Brewer-E Soviet
Yakovlev Yak-28 Brewer-E Soviet
Yakovlev Yak-28 Brewer-E Soviet
Yakovlev Yak-28 Brewer-E Soviet
Yakovlev Yak-28 Brewer-E Soviet
Yakovlev Yak-28 Brewer-E Soviet
Yakovlev Yak-28 Brewer-E Soviet
Yakovlev Yak-28 Brewer-E Soviet
Yakovlev Yak-28 Brewer-E Soviet
Yakovlev Yak-28 Brewer-E Soviet
Soviet Transport Aircraft
Two aircraft which could not find their way in covered shelters mainly due to their bigger size, are a Tupolev Tu-134A-3 and a Yakovlev Ya-40. Both can be accessed, so you can get a view of the inside, including the cockpits.
The Tu-134 twin jet, with its distinctive glass bulge in the nose ahead of the cockpit, has been for long a ubiquitous aircraft in the USSR and in many countries of the Eastern Bloc. The exemplar on display was taken over by the Estonian company Elk Airways, created after Estonia left the USSR.
Tupolev Tu-134A-3 Elk Airways Estonia
Tupolev Tu-134A-3 Elk Airways Estonia
Tupolev Tu-134A-3 Elk Airways Estonia
Tupolev Tu-134A-3 Elk Airways Estonia
Tupolev Tu-134A-3 Elk Airways Estonia
Tupolev Tu-134A-3 Elk Airways Estonia
Tupolev Tu-134A-3 Elk Airways Estonia
Tupolev Tu-134A-3 Elk Airways Estonia
Notwithstanding this, the aircraft betrays its Soviet ancestry and ownership in every particular, from the all-Cyrillic writings to the hammers and sickles here and there, from the design of interiors to the exotic cockpit, painted in a typical lurid Soviet green and with prominent unframed black rubber fans for ventilation.
Tupolev Tu-134A-3 Elk Airways Estonia
Tupolev Tu-134A-3 Elk Airways Estonia
Tupolev Tu-134A-3 Elk Airways Estonia
Tupolev Tu-134A-3 Elk Airways Estonia
Tupolev Tu-134A-3 Elk Airways Estonia
Tupolev Tu-134A-3 Elk Airways Estonia
Tupolev Tu-134A-3 Elk Airways Estonia
Tupolev Tu-134A-3 Elk Airways Estonia
Tupolev Tu-134A-3 Elk Airways Estonia
Tupolev Tu-134A-3 Elk Airways Estonia
Tupolev Tu-134A-3 Elk Airways Estonia
Tupolev Tu-134A-3 Elk Airways Estonia
Tupolev Tu-134A-3 Elk Airways Estonia
Tupolev Tu-134A-3 Elk Airways Estonia
The Yak-40 is an interesting three-jet executive/small transport aircraft. The one on display went on flying for at least some good 15 years after the collapse of the wall in Berlin.
Yakovlev Yak-40 Soviet Executive
Yakovlev Yak-40 Soviet Executive
Yakovlev Yak-40 Soviet Executive
Yakovlev Yak-40 Cockpit
Yakovlev Yak-40 Soviet Executive
Yakovlev Yak-40 Cockpit
Yakovlev Ya-40 Tartu Estonia
The internal configuration features an executive room ahead of a more usual passenger section and tail galley. The style of the cabin and of the pure analog cockpit is really outdated for todays standards!
Yakovlev Yak-40 Tartu Estonia Executive Cabin Soviet
Yakovlev Yak-40 Tartu Estonia Executive Cabin Soviet
Yakovlev Yak-40 Tartu Estonia Executive Cabin Soviet
Yakovlev Yak-40 Tartu Estonia Executive Cabin Soviet
Yakovlev Yak-40 Tartu Estonia Executive Cabin Soviet
Yakovlev Yak-40 Tartu Estonia Executive Cabin Soviet
Yakovlev Yak-40 Tartu Estonia Executive Cabin Soviet
Yakovlev Yak-40 Tartu Estonia Executive Cabin Soviet
Yakovlev Yak-40 Tartu Estonia Executive Cabin Soviet
Yakovlev Yak-40 Tartu Estonia Executive Cabin Soviet
Yakovlev Yak-40 Tartu Estonia Executive Cabin Soviet
Yakovlev Yak-40 Tartu Estonia Executive Cabin
Yakovlev Yak-40 Tartu Estonia Executive Cabin Soviet
Yakovlev Yak-40 Tartu Estonia Executive Cabin
Yakovlev Yak-40 Tartu Estonia
A rugged workhorse still flying today in many countries is the Antonov An-2, a single propeller, radial-engined, biplane tail-dragger transport. There are two of them in the collection. One is under a shelter and can be boarded. The interiors are very basic, but the visibility from the cockpit is very good especially for a tail-dragger with an engine on the nose.
Antonov An-2 Tartu Estonia
Antonov An-2 Tartu Estonia
Antonov An-2 Tartu Estonia
Antonov An-2 Tartu Estonia
Antonov An-2 Tartu Estonia
Antonov An-2 Tartu Estonia
Antonov An-2
Antonov An-2 Tartu Estonia
Antonov An-2 Tartu Estonia
Antonov An-2 Cockpit
Swedish Aircraft
An unusual chapter in air museums except in Sweden is that of SAAB aircraft, which are represented in this collection by two iconic models, a Draken and a Viggen, and an extremely rare, very elegant Lansen. All are in the colors of the Royal Swedish Air Force.
The Saab 35 Draken features a very distinctive double-delta wing, and was developed in the Fifties for reaching a high supersonic speed. The design turned out to be pretty successful, and was operationally adopted primarily as a fighter by Sweden and other European countries as well.
SAAB 35 Draken Swedish Air Force
SAAB 35 Draken Swedish Air Force
SAAB 35 Draken Swedish Air Force
SAAB 35 Draken Swedish Air Force
SAAB 35 Draken Swedish Air Force
SAAB 35 Draken Swedish Air Force
SAAB 35 Draken Swedish Air Force
SAAB 35 Draken Swedish Air Force
The one in the collection is painted in a bright yellow livery. The infra-red pod under the nose cone of this aggressive attack aircraft looks like the lidless eye of an alien!
SAAB 35 Draken Swedish Air Force
SAAB 35 Draken Swedish Air Force Radar
SAAB 35 Draken Swedish Air Force
SAAB 35 Draken Swedish Air Force
SAAB 35 Draken Swedish Air Force
SAAB 35 Draken Swedish Air Force
SAAB 35 Draken Swedish Air Force
SAAB 35 Draken Swedish Air Force
The Viggen is a an attack aircraft from the late Sixties, developed for the domestic military needs into some sub-variants. With the JA 37 version displayed here, the Viggen went on to constitute the backbone of the intercept fleet of neutral Sweden, and was retired only in the early 2000s. The aerodynamic configuration features a prominent canard wing, and the Viggen was notably the first in such configuration produced in significant numbers.
SAAB JA 37 Viggen Swedish Air Force
SAAB JA 37 Viggen Swedish Air Force
SAAB JA 37 Viggen Swedish Air Force
SAAB JA 37 Viggen Swedish Air Force
SAAB JA 37 Viggen Swedish Air Force
SAAB JA 37 Viggen Swedish Air Force
SAAB JA 37 Viggen Swedish Air Force
SAAB JA 37 Viggen Swedish Air Force
SAAB JA 37 Viggen Swedish Air Force
SAAB JA 37 Viggen Swedish Air Force
The most unusual of all three SAAB designs on display is surely the SAAB 32 Lansen. A very neat design from the Fifties, loosely recalling the Lockheed P-80 and the Hawker Hunter, the Lansen was a jet fighter of the early Cold War developed specifically for Sweden and gaining a good success. The ‘E’ version on display was converted from the original fighter variant (‘B’) for the ECM role, and kept flying almost until the end of the 20th century. The green painting of the Royal Swedish Air Force is really stylish, definitely adding to an already elegant design.
SAAB J32 Lansen Swedish Air Force with RM5/Avon engine
SAAB J32 Lansen Swedish Air Force
SAAB J32 Lansen Swedish Air Force
SAAB J32 Lansen Swedish Air Force
SAAB J32 Lansen Swedish Air Force
SAAB J32 Lansen Swedish Air Force
SAAB J32 Lansen Swedish Air Force
SAAB J32 Lansen Swedish Air Force
SAAB J32 Lansen Swedish Air Force
Soviet Surface-to-Air Missiles (SAM)
Curiously enough, an extensive collection of SAMs is part of this rich collection. All major missiles from SA-2 to SA-6 are represented, some of them in multiple exemplars. The size of these missiles, especially the oldest, is really striking. They are stored outside, besides some cases for missile transportation, deployable radar antennas, and what appears to be a flak cannon from Hitler’s Germany – a bit of an outsider…
Surface-to-Air Missile (SAM) Russian
Surface-to-Air Missile (SAM) Russian SA-2
Surface-to-Air Missile (SAM) Russian SA-2
Surface-to-Air Missile (SAM) Russian SA-3
Surface-to-Air Missile (SAM) Russian SA-3
Surface-to-Air Missile (SAM) Russian SA-3
Surface-to-Air Missile (SAM) Russian SA-3
Surface-to-Air Missile (SAM) Russian SA-5
Surface-to-Air Missile (SAM) Russian SA-3
Surface-to-Air Missile (SAM) Russian SA-5
Surface-to-Air Missile (SAM) Russian SA-5
Surface-to-Air Missile (SAM) Russian SA-5
SAM Container
German Flak Cannon
Surface-to-Air Missile (SAM) Russian SA-2
Surface-to-Air Missile (SAM) Russian SA-5
Surface-to-Air Missile (SAM) Russian SA-4 SA-6
Surface-to-Air Missile (SAM) Russian SA-4
Surface-to-Air Missile (SAM) Russian SA-6
Surface-to-Air Missile (SAM) Russian SA-4 SA-6
Surface-to-Air Missile (SAM) Russian SA-4 SA-6
Jet Engines
Many of the engines of the aircraft on display have been taken out of the corresponding airframes and put on display besides the plane where they used to belong, or in a dedicated part of the museum together with others. The J79 belonging to the Italian-built F-104 can be recognized from the Italian plaques on many components.
Soviet Jet Engine Tartu Estonia
Soviet Jet Engine Tartu Estonia
General Electric J79 Turbojet McDonnell Douglas Phantom engine
General Electric J79 Turbojet McDonnell Douglas Phantom engine
General Electric J79 Turbojet McDonnell Douglas Phantom engine
General Electric J79 Turbojet McDonnell Douglas Phantom engine
General Electric J79 Turbojet McDonnell Douglas Phantom engine
General Electric J79 Turbojet McDonnell Douglas Phantom engine
Soviet Jet Engine Tartu Estonia
Soviet Jet Engine Tartu Estonia
General Electric J79 Lockheed Starfighter engine
General Electric J79 Lockheed Starfighter engine
Many soviet engines bear markings in Cyrillic, and one of them, a larger turbofan which does not fit in any bird on display, has been cut to show all components.
Soviet Turbofan Cutaway Tartu Estonia
Soviet Turbofan Cutaway Tartu Estonia
Soviet Turbofan Cutaway Tartu Estonia
Soviet Turbofan Cutaway Tartu Estonia
Soviet Turbofan Cutaway Tartu Estonia
Soviet Turbofan Cutaway Tartu Estonia
Soviet Turbofan Cutaway Tartu Estonia
Soviet Turbofan Cutaway Tartu Estonia
Soviet Turbofan Cutaway Tartu Estonia
More…
More aircraft in the collection include some Mil and Kamov utility helicopters, a BAe Hawk of the Finnish Air Force and other trainers mainly from countries of the Warsaw Pact, some of them now on the civilian register.
PZL TS-11 Iskra Polish Air Force
PZL TS-11 Iskra Polish Air Force
Crop Duster Tartu Estonia
PZL Wilga Tartu Estonia
PZL Wilga Tartu Estonia
Jodel DR-1050 Ambassador
Aero L-39 Albatros Ukrainian Air Force
BAe Hawk Finnish Air Force
Aero L-29 Dolphin
Kamov Ka-26
Mil Mi-8 Tartu Estonia
A further notable aircraft is a Dassault Mirage IIIRS from the Swiss Air Force – with multi-language French and German stencils all over.
Dassault Mirage IIIRS Swiss Air Force
Dassault Mirage IIIRS Swiss Air Force
Dassault Mirage IIIRS Swiss Air Force
Dassault Mirage IIIRS Swiss Air Force
There are also some anti-aircraft guns, armored vehicles, tanks, and other curios items to whet your appetite!
T34 Soviet Tank Tartu Estonia
Rockets Tartu Estonia
Anti Aircraft Gun Tartu Estonia
Anti Aircraft Gun Tartu Estonia
Anti Aircraft Gun Tartu Estonia
Anti Aircraft Gun Tartu Estonia
Anti Aircraft Gun Tartu Estonia
Military Transport Tartu Estonia
Anti Aircraft Gun Tartu Estonia
Autonomous Aircraft Drone Tartu Estonia
Getting There and Moving Around
The museum can be reached 10 miles south of central Tartu on road 141, about 15 minutes by car from there. There is a free parking area nearby the entrance. As remarked, the collection is well-kept and somewhat publicized locally. There is a website with all information in English. The time required for visiting may vary from 45 minutes for a quick tour to 2.5 hours for photographers and those with a specific interest in the matter.
Similar to the neighbor republics of Estonia and Lithuania, Latvia was occupied by the Soviets a first time in 1939 and again in 1944, when after some years of occupation by Hitler’s forces the Red Army started to successfully repel the German Wehrmacht from within Russia back towards Poland and central Europe. Differently from other European Countries later to become satellites of Moscow’s central communist power, the three ‘Baltic States’ were directly annexed to the Soviet Union.
History – in brief
As a matter of fact, the process of annexation was not a very peaceful one. Having had already a short but intense experience of the Stalinist dictatorship as a consequence of the Ribbentrop-Molotov pact before the German invasion in 1941, as soon as it became clear that Stalin’s forces would regain power hundreds of thousands from the Baltics left the Country for abroad, while the communist regime rapidly started to put in practice its deadly ideas, with the collectivization of all private activities, abolition of free elections and non-communist associations, and the imprisonment and deportation of all who disagreed with this plan.
The reason for the different fate of these Countries – annexed – with respect to those of central Europe – which became satellites of the USSR – may be understood on one side looking further back in history – the territories of the three republics had been for long under the direct influence of the Russian Empire. On the other hand, as testified by the relevant military presence in these areas since immediately after the beginning of the Cold War, the government of the USSR considered the Baltic region of high strategic value. Taking control of the coast of the Baltic States, and also thanks to the annexation of the region of Hanko in Finland, the USSR could protect the access to the Gulf of Finland and Leningrad, profit from military and commercial ports which do not freeze in winter and deploy strategic military resources – especially aircraft and missiles – within range of most European capitals.
Bases for all branches of the military flourished in all three new Soviet Socialist Republics. Soon after the fall of the Wall in Berlin, Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania were the first of the USSR states to declare independence from the Union in 1990 – almost two years before the actual collapse of the USSR – following massive protests which unveiled the high level of intolerance for the Soviet rule. As a result of the withdrawal of Soviet/Russian forces, these three small republics found themselves in control of many military installations, totally disproportioned to the new size and needs of the new states, and making for a not-so-welcomed memento of many decades of hardship – as a matter of fact, some measures to limit the spread of Russian influence in culture and politics have been implemented in all three states, which also joined NATO and the European Union as soon as possible.
Sights
The attitude assumed towards the huge military assets left from the Cold War has been slightly different in the three republics. All three are basically getting rid of them, Estonia being the quickest – not much remains there of the many missile bases, and the once prominent strategic air base in Raadi has been totally closed down and partially converted into a museum on national history. Until some years ago many missile sites remained in quite a good shape in Latvia, but most of them have been actively demolished in recent years, including the most iconic Dvina silo sites – as of 2017 the job was completed and no Dvina complex remains in Latvia. Yet visible remains of surface bases and many ghost towns and bunkers are reportedly still there, and while some can be visited ‘officially’ as museums, many are left to urban explorers and archaeologists, while some hardware like warehouses and service buildings has been reused by local companies for storing logs, gravel and other raw materials. Lithuania bolsters possibly the last surviving Dvina missile complex in Europe, which has been turned recently into a museum on the Cold War, totaling 20’000 visitors per year. The demolition process is perhaps slower there.
Prisons constitute non-military but possibly more disturbing leftovers from the communist era. There are some in the Baltics – as basically everywhere in the former eastern bloc including Eastern Germany – all opened as museum, and in one instance also partially turned into a curious and evoking ‘jail hotel’.
This post presents some highlights and examples of remains from the Cold War era from both military and non-military sites in Latvia. Photographs were taken in 2017, during a visit to this lively and nice country in Northern Europe.
This missile base is one of the best conserved in the three republics. The storage and launch complex was originally built for the R12 liquid fueled, 2.3 Megaton single-warhead nuclear missile, known in the West as SS-4 Sandal. This missile system – the same deployed to Cuba in 1962 – was pretty modern for the end of the Fifties, yet it lacked the extra range required to reach strategic targets in Europe from deep within Russia. This made the Baltic region very interesting for the military, and a place of election for installing missile complexes in that age.
The base of Zeltini is one of three missile launch sites around the town of Aluksne, in northeastern Latvia. This base was updated and kept in an active state until the end of the Soviet Union and the withdrawal of the Red Army towards Russia, who obviously carried away all the weapons and technical rigs. Soon after, the locals started to take away anything of any value, including extensive piping, cables, any metal and so on, leaving basically the empty buildings and bunkers. More recently, as typical also to other such places in Latvia, private businesses were allowed on the premises of the former installation. A timber storage and processing facility today occupies the area where the nuclear warheads used to be stored, separate from the missiles.
The complex in Zeltini could accommodate four missiles in two couples of neighbor storage bunkers, built about .3 miles apart, and launch them from two twin surface launch pads. At least two launch pads can be seen today. They are large flat area with a pavement made of concrete slabs, recognizable by a steel crown on the ground with an approximate diameter of 5-6 feet. This was used to anchor the low gantry holding the 72 ft long missile in vertical position when being readied for launch.
One of the pads is in the center of the best preserved part of the site – the southeastern one -, but the position of the missile gantry is today occupied by a pretty big head of Lenin, reportedly moved here from Aluksne after the end of communism, sparing it from being blown up.
Zeltini Soviet Nuclear Missile Base Latvia
Zeltini Soviet Nuclear Missile Base Latvia
Zeltini Soviet Nuclear Missile Base Latvia
Zeltini Soviet Nuclear Missile Base Latvia
Zeltini Soviet Nuclear Missile Base Latvia
The grounds around this launch pad are rich with interesting bunkers, which once hosted support machinery and control gears, including anything necessary for missile servicing, launch preparation and control.
Zeltini Soviet Nuclear Missile Base Latvia
Zeltini Soviet Nuclear Missile Base Latvia
Zeltini Soviet Nuclear Missile Base Latvia
Zeltini Soviet Nuclear Missile Base Latvia
Zeltini Soviet Nuclear Missile Base Latvia
Zeltini Soviet Nuclear Missile Base Latvia
Zeltini Soviet Nuclear Missile Base Latvia
Zeltini Soviet Nuclear Missile Base Latvia
Zeltini Soviet Nuclear Missile Base Latvia
Zeltini Soviet Nuclear Missile Base Latvia
Zeltini Soviet Nuclear Missile Base Latvia
There are bunkers of basically two types – smaller ones with a single entrance on one side of a cusp-roofed tunnel and a lower height, and bigger ones, much roomier, longer, and with doors on both sides of the barrel-vaulted tunnel.
Zeltini Soviet Nuclear Missile Base Latvia
Zeltini Soviet Nuclear Missile Base Latvia
Zeltini Soviet Nuclear Missile Base Latvia
Zeltini Soviet Nuclear Missile Base Latvia
Zeltini Soviet Nuclear Missile Base Latvia
Zeltini Soviet Nuclear Missile Base Latvia
Zeltini Soviet Nuclear Missile Base Latvia
Zeltini Soviet Nuclear Missile Base Latvia
Zeltini Soviet Nuclear Missile Base Latvia
Zeltini Soviet Nuclear Missile Base Latvia
Zeltini Soviet Nuclear Missile Base Latvia
Zeltini Soviet Nuclear Missile Base Latvia
Zeltini Soviet Nuclear Missile Base Latvia
Zeltini Soviet Nuclear Missile Base Latvia
AZeltini Soviet Nuclear Missile Base Latvia
Zeltini Soviet Nuclear Missile Base Latvia
Zeltini Soviet Nuclear Missile Base Latvia
Zeltini Soviet Nuclear Missile Base Latvia
Zeltini Soviet Nuclear Missile Base Latvia
Zeltini Soviet Nuclear Missile Base Latvia
Zeltini Soviet Nuclear Missile Base Latvia
Zeltini Soviet Nuclear Missile Base Latvia
A ubiquitous feature of these missile complexes are concrete T-shaped frames planted in the ground. These were used to carry miles of pipings at the time when the base was active.
Aligned with the main axis of the launch area it is possible to spot the corresponding missile bunker ‘N.3’, which is unfortunately locked. The construction and size are like those of the bigger support bunkers, the only visible difference being the slightly wider doors on the front façade, and the absence of a back door on the other end of the bunker.
Zeltini Soviet Nuclear Missile Base Latvia
Zeltini Soviet Nuclear Missile Base Latvia
Zeltini Soviet Nuclear Missile Base Latvia
Zeltini Soviet Nuclear Missile Base Latvia
Zeltini Soviet Nuclear Missile Base Latvia
Many traces of plaques with mottos and citations in Russian from Lenin & Co. can be found on the exterior of the bunkers, whereas tons of ‘Warning!’ signs and other technical information are painted in the inside.
Zeltini Soviet Nuclear Missile Base Latvia
Zeltini Soviet Nuclear Missile Base Latvia
Zeltini Soviet Nuclear Missile Base Latvia
Zeltini Soviet Nuclear Missile Base Latvia
Zeltini Soviet Nuclear Missile Base Latvia
Zeltini Soviet Nuclear Missile Base Latvia
Zeltini Soviet Nuclear Missile Base Latvia
Zeltini Soviet Nuclear Missile Base Latvia
A second launch pad can be seen in the in the northwestern part of the military grounds – with no Lenin’s head. Here traces of stripes on the ground for easing maneuvers or indicating the place to park ancillary rigs – like generators, gas tanks,… – can still be seen. Also here the corresponding ‘N.2’ missile bunker is locked.
Zeltini Soviet Nuclear Missile Base Latvia
Zeltini Soviet Nuclear Missile Base Latvia
Zeltini Soviet Nuclear Missile Base Latvia
Zeltini Soviet Nuclear Missile Base Latvia
Zeltini Soviet Nuclear Missile Base Latvia
Zeltini Soviet Nuclear Missile Base Latvia
Zeltini Soviet Nuclear Missile Base Latvia
In a land strip where nature is growing wild between the two main launch areas, it is possible to spot a little bunker with a kind of concrete sentry-box. This was presumably a storage bunker for light weapons, a small reinforced shelter for watchmen, or something similar. Wooden shelves can still be found inside.
Zeltini Soviet Nuclear Missile Base Latvia
Zeltini Soviet Nuclear Missile Base Latvia
Zeltini Soviet Nuclear Missile Base Latvia
Zeltini Soviet Nuclear Missile Base Latvia
Zeltini Soviet Nuclear Missile Base Latvia
Zeltini Soviet Nuclear Missile Base Latvia
Zeltini Soviet Nuclear Missile Base Latvia
Zeltini Soviet Nuclear Missile Base Latvia
Another interesting sight is what appears to be a ‘living bunker’. This is half interred, with small doors on both ends and a sequence of rooms aligned on a long corridor. The center room is the biggest, and may be a canteen or something alike. There are traces of a decorated white and blue linoleum pavement, but there are also very unique frescoes on the walls. These include an artist impression of the SS-4 Sandal missile and also of the typical mushroom-cloud produced by a nuclear explosion!
