Tag: mystery

German and Soviet Military Traces in Jüterbog

CarloRLeave a comment

The area around Jüterbog, about 1 hour and 15 minutes south of Berlin by car, has enjoyed a long military tradition, dating from the years of the Kaiser and WWI, through the Third Reich and all the more than four decades of the Cold War, until the departure of the Soviet Army in the early 1990s.

Almost for the entire duration of the 20th century, the area has been scattered with barracks, immense training grounds, shooting ranges, officer’s houses, army administration buildings, technical depots, airports and military academies.

The town of Jüterbog is actually much older than the 20th century, but the Soviets, who grew to a much greater population than the Germans in town after 1945, did not pay much attention to this nice medieval town. Following their withdrawal and the end of all military operations around, the town center received substantial money for restoration from the Government of reunified Germany, and the result is really remarkable – Jüterbog is today possibly one of the most lively and nice-looking centers in the region, with medieval towers, gates and churches, hotels, restaurants and bright-painted houses all around.

However, one hundred years of military activities in this province could not be wiped out at once, and despite nature is now invading the old army premises after operations ceased, to a careful eye the heritage of the German and Soviet Armies stationed there can be spotted quite easily, immediately out the lovely historical town.

Perhaps the most prominent witnesses of the past activities are the old flight academy, installed in the Third Reich years and later employed also by the Soviets, who got control of the area after they arrived in 1945, and kept it even after the foundation of the GDR and the corresponding Armed Forces (i.e. the Nationale Volksarmee, or NVA). The flight academy is today a listed building, despite in a state of partial disrepair. Another example is the big airbase of Jüterbog/Altes Lager, which went on operating as an NVA and Soviet airbase until the very end of the Cold War, and is now being used as a sport airfield, a kart circuit track, an event venue and a solar power plant.

Both these two items are covered in another chapter.

In the following report, more locations in and around Jüterbog are pinpointed, photographed during two visits, partly guided by the knowledgeable Dr. Reiner Helling, in the Summer seasons of 2021 and 2022.

Heading to Berlin or the former GDR? Looking for traces of the Cold War open for a visit?

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Sights

The material in this post covers ‘Shelter Albrecht’, a one-of-a-kind private collection of items from WWII and especially from Soviet times, more views of the former airfield of Altes Lager, with a Granit bunker still in very good conditions, an abandoned military hospital with evident traces of Soviet operations, a Soviet cemetery, and a few more items, silent and overlooked witnesses of a recently bygone era.

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Shelter Albrecht

The airbase of Jüterbog/Altes Lager was selected by the Soviets for further development with the arrival of jets in the late 1940s-early 1950s, and grew to be a prominent attack aircraft and helicopter base in the territory of the GDR. Now reduced in size to the point that some taxiways have been turned into public roads, some of the incredibly many aircraft shelters originally in place in the peripheral parts of the base – mostly AU-16 – have been wiped out. However, a set of two to the east of the runway have been spared this fate, and have been redeemed by a private business. One has been turned into a venue for events, whereas the other has been employed to showcase a great collection of WWII and Cold War memorabilia. Actually, the two hangars are located inside a somewhat larger perimeter, with an original technical building and room for even more exhibits.

A first impressive sight is the original Soviet scheme of the base. Similar signs were typically put close to the gate of any Soviet base (as seen for instance here in Ribnitz/Damgarten), and with their Russian writings today they witness the Soviet tenancy of the base.

Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection

On the apron, an original military version of the ubiquitous Trabant, in army green color, is on display together with a field kitchen and a gigantic roadwork machine. The latter is Russian made, with tank tracks, and powered by a 12-cylinder Diesel engine.

Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection

A Mil Mi-2 helicopter, which for some hard-to-imagine reason had ended up on the Adriatic coast of Italy in a private collection, where it sat almost derelict, has been brought back to the other side of the Iron Curtain, and restored in a camo coat and placed in a prominent position. Not far, a wing from an old Lavochin La-5 Soviet aircraft can be found.

Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection

Still on the open air exhibition are a decorated panel once gracing a Soviet hospital – possibly the one described later (here) – and another celebrating the Warsaw Pact. But the exhibits are really countless, and include propaganda posters, and canisters for ordnance.

Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection

To the side of the main exhibition hangar, in the area of an interred fuel tank once serving the base, is an incredible set of Soviet panels, originally from this or other Soviet bases around. These panels are partly decoration/celebration signs, with portraits of Soviet soldiers and emblems.

Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection

Other are technically-themed, with explanations concerning driving habits and rules, hand-to-hand combat, and more. Similar items, including fake targets for assault training, can be found for instance in Forst Zinna, an abandoned Soviet base not far from Jüterbog (covered here).

Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection

Also part of the collection is a rare mural, apparently retracing the push to the west of a Soviet division (?) during the Great Patriotic War.

Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection

Inside, the aircraft shelter is stuffed with interesting memorabilia. From WWII, exhibits include remains of downed aircraft, including damaged engines, propellers and canopies. Among them are remains of an Avro Lancaster, a Focke-Wulf 190, a Junkers Ju-87 and the canopy of a pretty rare training (two-seats) version of the Messerschmitt Bf-109.

Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection

Four large scale models cover as many interesting sights around. The first is the former flight academy of the Third Reich (mentioned above and covered here), north of the Altes Lager airbase premises. Also on display are books and furniture originally from the library of the academy.

Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection

A second model portrays the entire area between the academy (north) and the airfield (south), including the latter. This area, now largely shrouded in the trees and partially in private hands, used to host technical installations and even factories connected with warfare business – all linked by an extensive network of roads and railways.

Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection

Another model is that of two airship hangars from the years of German tenancy. These had to be really huge, but are today completely gone. Among the factories in place in the area, were those for supplying gas for the airships.

Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection

Finally, a fourth scale model represents the older airfield of Jüterbog/Damm. The latter is not far from Altes Lager, and is today in private hands for some cattle breeding business. It features very peculiar concrete hangars, an interesting specimen of Third Reich construction engineering. Some aerial pictures can be found here. That airfield was not selected for further development by the Soviets, due to the limited potential for runway lengthening, in turn due to the proximity with Jüterbog town.

Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection

Soviet-related items on display range from painted tables, originally gracing the walls of the base, to technical signs in Russian, to a full array of personal and military items, all belonging to the Soviet staff stationed in Jüterbog. These include an interesting overall map of the Soviet airfields on GDR territory, with basic technical data.

Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection

Among the highlights, an official printed portrait of Stalin, and one of Brezhnev in a military uniform, parachutes and parts from attack aircraft, many direction signs and instructional panels for low-ranking military staff. Also very interesting is a radar scope with the three air corridors to West-Berlin and the position of Altes Lager printed on it!

Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection

Of special interest for aircraft enthusiasts are many pictures from the days of operation of the airbase, with many exotic Soviet aircraft seen landing, departing or taxiing around.

Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection

Other panels tells about the presence of rocket forces in the area of Jüterbog – in particular the 27th R.Br. of the NVA. They operated the SCUD-B system.

Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection

Back outside, the exhibition is completed by an original monument from Altes Lager, often employed as a background for official ceremonies, and more personal memorabilia of the owner of the museum, formerly serving within a tank division of the NVA.

Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection

Reconstructed shops and schools are on display, with much original furniture and everyday items of Soviet make.

Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Getting there and Visiting

The place is really worth a visit for everybody interested in memorabilia items from Soviet times, or for those looking for tangible traces of the military past of Jüterbog. The location is easy to reach by car, with a convenient internal parking. The address is Niedergörsdorfer Allee 4, 14913 Niedergörsdorf, Germany.

An updated official website with opening times is apparently not available. However, Mr. Helmut Stark, the owner of the place, may be contacted beforehand (in German only) to inquire about opening times and plan a visit – try Googling his name and that of the site for updated contacts. The place is regularly open at least in the weekends in the warm season. A visit to this site will be likely with Mr. Stark following you and giving explanations in German. This will take about 45 minutes.

Granit Bunker and Hangars in Jüterbog/Altes Lager

Some views of the Altes Lager airbase are provided in this chapter, and some aerial views can be seen here. The huge, flat-top hangars date from the Third Reich era, and similarly the control tower with its annexes. Some of the hangars were reportedly dismounted by the Soviets and taken to the Soviet Union soon after the end of WWII.

Jüterbog Altes Lager Abandoned Soviet Base Bunker Granit Cold War Nuclear Warheads
Jüterbog Altes Lager Abandoned Soviet Base Bunker Granit Cold War Nuclear Warheads
Jüterbog Altes Lager Abandoned Soviet Base Bunker Granit Cold War Nuclear Warheads
Jüterbog Altes Lager Abandoned Soviet Base Bunker Granit Cold War Nuclear Warheads
Jüterbog Altes Lager Abandoned Soviet Base Bunker Granit Cold War Nuclear Warheads
Jüterbog Altes Lager Abandoned Soviet Base Bunker Granit Cold War Nuclear Warheads
Jüterbog Altes Lager Abandoned Soviet Base Bunker Granit Cold War Nuclear Warheads

Besides all the aircraft shelters scattered all around the runway, a relevant and pretty secluded Soviet addition north of the airfield is a Soviet Granit-type bunker. This type of bunker was among the lightest in Soviet inventory, and could serve multiple purposes, e.g. storing movable radar trucks, tanks, other machinery, or weapons. Actually, its presence on an airfield may suggest the purpose of storing special air-dropped weapons, maybe tactical nuclear, high-explosive or chemical ordnance.

Jüterbog Altes Lager Abandoned Soviet Base Bunker Granit Cold War Nuclear Warheads
Jüterbog Altes Lager Abandoned Soviet Base Bunker Granit Cold War Nuclear Warheads
Jüterbog Altes Lager Abandoned Soviet Base Bunker Granit Cold War Nuclear Warheads
Jüterbog Altes Lager Abandoned Soviet Base Bunker Granit Cold War Nuclear Warheads
Jüterbog Altes Lager Abandoned Soviet Base Bunker Granit Cold War Nuclear Warheads
Jüterbog Altes Lager Abandoned Soviet Base Bunker Granit Cold War Nuclear Warheads
Jüterbog Altes Lager Abandoned Soviet Base Bunker Granit Cold War Nuclear Warheads
Jüterbog Altes Lager Abandoned Soviet Base Bunker Granit Cold War Nuclear Warheads
Jüterbog Altes Lager Abandoned Soviet Base Bunker Granit Cold War Nuclear Warheads

Bunkers of Granit-type are possibly the most frequent special constructions in former Soviet bases (see for instance here or here), but the one in Jüterbog is interesting since it is very well conserved, and its massive metal doors are still perfectly in place, providing a nice impression of how this technical item should have looked like in the days of operation.

Getting there and Visiting

The airport of Altes Lager is today pretty busy, with several companies having taken over much of its original premises now open for business. Multiple access points are available, and chances of looking inside the original installations are many. Given the still exceptional state of conservation of the Granit bunker, in order to protect this rare historical artifact from the impressive hordes of catatonic idiot spoilers and writers out there, no indication is provided on its exact location.

Military Hospital

Among the buildings now shrouded by the overgrown vegetation in the area between Jüterbog/Altes Lager airfield and the town of Jüterbog is a sizable military hospital. Totally invisible from the road, the hospital is basically made of a single, building featuring three long interconnected rows.

It is made of the typical German dark-red brick, a design which is way too elegant for Soviet occupants. The arrangement of the facade and the nice railings suggest a construction date from the years of the Kaiser and the German Empire, maybe early 20th century.

Jüterbog Niedergorsdorf Altes Lager – Abandoned Military Hospital – Soviet Relic
Jüterbog Niedergorsdorf Altes Lager – Abandoned Military Hospital – Soviet Relic
Jüterbog Niedergorsdorf Altes Lager – Abandoned Military Hospital – Soviet Relic
Jüterbog Niedergorsdorf Altes Lager – Abandoned Military Hospital – Soviet Relic
Jüterbog Niedergorsdorf Altes Lager – Abandoned Military Hospital – Soviet Relic
Jüterbog Niedergorsdorf Altes Lager – Abandoned Military Hospital – Soviet Relic
Jüterbog Niedergorsdorf Altes Lager – Abandoned Military Hospital – Soviet Relic
Jüterbog Niedergorsdorf Altes Lager – Abandoned Military Hospital – Soviet Relic

However, the years of Soviet use are witnessed by a big mural, portraying Lenin with some Soviet soldiers in the background, with a black and yellow striped ribbon and a red star, emblems of the Red Army.

Jüterbog Niedergorsdorf Altes Lager – Abandoned Military Hospital – Soviet Relic
Jüterbog Niedergorsdorf Altes Lager – Abandoned Military Hospital – Soviet Relic
Jüterbog Niedergorsdorf Altes Lager – Abandoned Military Hospital – Soviet Relic

To the more careful eye, a few graffiti in Russian can be found here and there, with a date as usual.

Jüterbog Niedergorsdorf Altes Lager – Abandoned Military Hospital – Soviet Relic
Jüterbog Niedergorsdorf Altes Lager – Abandoned Military Hospital – Soviet Relic
Jüterbog Niedergorsdorf Altes Lager – Abandoned Military Hospital – Soviet Relic
Jüterbog Niedergorsdorf Altes Lager – Abandoned Military Hospital – Soviet Relic
Jüterbog Niedergorsdorf Altes Lager – Abandoned Military Hospital – Soviet Relic

The aura is very silent and mysterious, and as such, this location is a mecca for urban explorers. Actually, the only noise came from a fast spinning ventilation fan in a window frame! This was pushed by an air stream however, not likely by a motor…

Jüterbog Niedergorsdorf Altes Lager – Abandoned Military Hospital – Soviet Relic

Some more buildings complete this complex, and original GDR-style lamps can still be seen around – the tall trees now surrounding the building were likely not in place when the hospital was closed, presumably in the early 1990s.

Jüterbog Niedergorsdorf Altes Lager – Abandoned Military Hospital – Soviet Relic
Jüterbog Niedergorsdorf Altes Lager – Abandoned Military Hospital – Soviet Relic
Jüterbog Niedergorsdorf Altes Lager – Abandoned Military Hospital – Soviet Relic
Getting there and Moving around

Not difficult to find in the trees between Jüterbog and the airfield of Altes Lager, there is no clear interdiction sign to access this complex from behind, yet vibration sensors planted in the ground can be spotted around, and some security cars can be seen sometimes parked on the main road. A walk around the hospital is not especially dangerous nor difficult, and may take about 25 minutes taking all the pictures. The building is architecturally nice and possibly listed. Yet it is in partial disrepair and largely sealed, and getting in is obviously not advisable.

Soviet Cemetery

The only relic of the years of Soviet occupation which is immediately visible to the general public in Jüterbog is the Soviet military cemetery. This is located to the back of the Liebfrauenkirche, in the historical center of Jüterbog.

Actually, a monumental part, with railings embellished with hammer and sickle emblems and a monument with writings in German and Russian to the back, is detached from the church yard.

Jüterbog Soviet Cemetery Friedhof
Jüterbog Soviet Cemetery Friedhof
Jüterbog Soviet Cemetery Friedhof
Jüterbog Soviet Cemetery Friedhof
Jüterbog Soviet Cemetery Friedhof
Jüterbog Soviet Cemetery Friedhof

However, possibly in later times, the limited space available in the lot originally planned for the monument meant some graves were dug right in the church graveyard, side by side – but not mixed – with German graves.

Jüterbog Soviet Cemetery Friedhof
Jüterbog Soviet Cemetery Friedhof
Jüterbog Soviet Cemetery Friedhof
Jüterbog Soviet Cemetery Friedhof
Jüterbog Soviet Cemetery Friedhof
Jüterbog Soviet Cemetery Friedhof
Jüterbog Soviet Cemetery Friedhof
Jüterbog Soviet Cemetery Friedhof
Getting there and Visiting

The exact address is Am Dammtor, 14913 Jüterbog, Germany. The place is well-kept, being part of the historical city center of Jüterbog. Parking opportunities all around on the street. A visit may take 10 minutes.

Railway Yard, School and Command Building

The town of Jüterbog acted as a ‘local capital’ for the many Soviet troops and their families scattered in the corresponding district. The hospital (see above) was not the only large installation in place. A district school was also installed, which served not only the very town of Jüterbog – with a Russian-speaking population of more than 70.000, greater than the German nationals – but also the residing Soviet population of smaller technical installations in the area. A notable example is the impressive nuclear depot in Stolzenhain (see here), where a dedicated staff and their families occupied four residential blocks now gone. Their children reportedly attended school in Jüterbog.

The school is today largely abandoned, and a quick tour around reveals typical Soviet decorations in the large sporting hall.

Jüterbog Soviet School Abandoned Cold War Relic
Jüterbog Soviet School Abandoned Cold War Relic
Jüterbog Soviet School Abandoned Cold War Relic
Jüterbog Soviet School Abandoned Cold War Relic

The school building is geographically close to the railway station. The latter had a passenger terminal dedicated to the Soviet population, which was completely segregated from the German one.

Furthermore, the railway in Jüterbog had also a primary logistic function, connected with the military activities going on in the area. Besides transporting tanks, vehicles and other material, also nuclear warheads arrived by rail from Belarus or Ukraine (both in the USSR at the time), for storage in the Stolzenhain Monolith-type bunkers (see here). A special railway track with a dead end in the trees featured a special interchange platform, allowing to move the sensitive warheads in their controlled canisters to trucks, and by road to Stolzenhain – usually at night. Since warheads were also sent back for maintenance or overhaul, the transport operated also in the opposite direction.

Jüterbog Railway Track Station
Jüterbog Railway Track Station

Very close to the railway station and the school is also a large grassy area, surrounded by a nice, old-style metal fence. This area is that of an older training ground, dating to the years of the Kaiser. A command building, now in disrepair, betrays the same origin, featuring decorations in a typical old-German style.

Jüterbog Command Building Abandoned Relic
Jüterbog Command Building Abandoned Relic
Jüterbog Command Building Abandoned Relic
Getting there and Moving around

The school can be found in Jüterbog here. Cross the street from the school, the old training grounds and command building are immediately spotted. Walking north past the command building, you get access to a pedestrian bridge over the railway tracks, with a nice view of the station. An exploration of the railway tracks has to be considered extremely dangerous, since the railway line there is today a high-speed one, with bullet-fast trains appearing in just seconds. A walk around this spot in Jüterbog may take 15 minutes. Parking opportunities ahead of the command building.

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Soviet ‘Monolith’ Nuclear Bunkers in Poland – Survivors & Ghosts

CarloR1 Comment

Since the beginning caught in the storm of WWII, Poland saw its border changed again in 1945 by the Western Allies and the USSR – the lack of natural borders meant that fate for this Country several times over the centuries. Furthermore, as a massive flow of Soviet forces had been pivotal in repelling Hitler’s forces, similar to other nations sharing a border with the USSR, Poland found itself deep in the sphere of influence of Stalin’s Soviet Union. A communist dictatorship was installed starting 1945, due to last until the end of communism in Europe in 1989.

As a matter of fact, Poland turned out to be by far the most populated and largest of Eastern Bloc countries. Strategically placed in the middle between the USSR and free Western Europe, with a wide section of the Baltic shoreline and a huge, mostly flat territory, similar to the German Democratic Republic nearby, Poland was the theater of a significant militarization effort by the Soviets. Not only the Polish army received Soviet war material in large stocks over the full span of the Cold War, but the Red Army also actually had significant assets scattered over Polish territory – its huge Northern Group of Forces being stationed there, with tanks, aircraft, dedicated bases, firing ranges, as well as several tens of thousand troops and their families, making for a kind of military colony of the USSR.

What is possibly less known is that also Soviet nuclear weapons were stationed in some satellites of the USSR, like the GDR (see this and this chapters, for instance), Hungary (see this chapter), and of course Poland.

Some elements of the global picture have been introduced in another chapter, dealing among other things with a Basalt-type bunker built for storing air-launched nuclear systems, on the premises of the Soviet airbase of Wiechlice (Szprotawa). Yet as can be argued from the general map of of nuclear depots known to Western intelligence, dating from 1979 (‘Warsaw Pact Forces Opposite NATO’, Vol.I-II, CREST record number 0005517771, declassified and released in 2010, here), there were also three major depots of the Monolith-type in Poland. Similar to Stolzenhain and Lychen in the former GDR (see this post), these depots were larger, multi-chamber storage facilities, intended to store primarily missile warheads for longer periods, for instance to complement the SCUD launch system for theater missiles.

The uniqueness of Poland in the panorama of Cold War archaeology lies in a generally positive attitude towards preserving some traces of this dramatic piece of recent history, when the map of Europe was markedly different from now, and the western world found itself multiple times on the verge of a nuclear confrontation, to be fought on the very territory of now wealthy Core Europe. As a result, an impressive number of war museums putting on display military stuff from all the 20th century can be found scattered over the broad territory of today’s Poland.

Even more important, a certain number of former Soviet military installations are being either actively preserved, or at least not condemned through demolition works or re-assignment to improbable new uses. This is despite a totally justified negative attitude towards the Soviet occupation forces and communist dictatorship. This attitude marks an unusual difference between the cultural attitude of the fierce Polish people towards recent military history and Soviet occupation, with respect for instance to Germany or Hungary, where the comprehensible dislike for the Soviets has taken a shape in leaving behind – i.e. more or less demolishing – every trace of a Soviet military presence, and especially in the former, reducing military museums to a minimum.

Among the most prominent Cold War relics you can find in Poland are the three Monolith-type nuclear warhead bunkers mentioned above. One of them – the Podborsko site – has been restored with 90% original material, and makes for a world-class, top-tier museum in the panorama of Cold War military history. The other two, Brzeznica-Kolonia and Templewo, have been left to nature and have now become ‘Soviet ghosts’, but they are advertised with panels, providing some info, and while access is not encouraged, a quick look inside the bunkers, as well as freely walking in the former premises of these bases, is of course possible.

This post covers these three Monolith-type sites, with a focus on the unique preserved Podborsko site, which needs to be on the shortlist of everyone with an interest in Cold War technology, as well as in the history of the nuclear stockpile. All sites were visited, and all photographs taken, on a trip to western Poland in summer 2020.

Navigate this post – click on links to scroll

Sights

All three sites are in northwestern Poland. GPS coordinates are provided in the respective sections. Despite being not too much afar from each other, due the relatively slow connection roads in the area, visiting all three places in one day is not possible. Furthermore, the area is quite dense in both general interest and Cold War related destinations, so I would advise planning a trip to this region of Poland and listing these sites among other destinations.

Podborsko Site – Objekt 3001

A good specimen of a Monolith site, Podborsko – or Objekt 3001, as per the official military listing of the Cold War years – was centered on two large half-interred bunker, each with two big side-wards opening tight doors at ground level, providing access to the interior with the trolleys used to move the nuclear warheads from the transport trucks to the cellars.

Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum

For an increased protection in case of an attack to the site – likely listed among targets of strategic value by Western Countries – a second tight door was put immediately next to the external one, creating a tight, blast resisting and insulated airlock between the interior of the bunker and the outside world.

Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum

Both doors to the two ends of the airlock can be – and are – opened via a manual crank system. Two men are needed to actually move the doors however – they are really heavy! A servo-assisted system was in place originally.

An interesting detail is the original sensor for the door status, part of a security system of the base.

Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum

Similar to their US counterparts, the Soviets took the problem of security of the nuclear arsenal pretty seriously. Each door on the path followed by the warhead from the outside to the cellar, including the airlock doors as well as the cellar doors inside the bunker, were associated to a trigger. When the corresponding door was opened, the trigger sent a signal via a dedicated cable link to the headquarters of a dedicated branch of the Red Army offices in Moscow, Russia, which was kept constantly updated on the status of each critical door in the depot. The link was via purpose-designed vacuum-protected cables – the actual wiring ran along a vacuum manifold, so that in case of the cable was bitten and the vacuum manifold collapsed, an emergency signal was immediately sent to the nearest nodes of the network, allowing surveillance staff to intervene promptly.

The opening of and closing procedure of the airlock doors involved communication with a post in Moscow too, which started with the local guards communicating their intention to open the doors via a system housed in a blue cabinet besides the tight door. As the signal traveled from the bunker to the headquarters and back, the opening of an airlock was not a quick operation! Original writings in pencil can still be found in the cabinet.

Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum

Past the airlock, you land on an elevated concrete platform. From here the warheads were moved to the underground floor via a mechanical crane. This is still standing today, with limit indications in Russian.

Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum

From the platform you get an excellent lookout of the bunker structure. You can see a twin suspended platform to the opposite end of the underground floor, with a tight door shut closed. Along the long sides of the main hall, on the underground level you see several doors. On the right hand side, big sliding doors painted in white give access to the cellars, where the warheads spent most of their time in rest. On the opposite side are smaller man-sized doors, giving access to the technical area, with provision for the men of the permanent bunker watch.

Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum

The stairs leading downstairs are among the few complements to the original structure – they have been put in place to ease visiting. Originally, the underground floor could be reached from the suspended platform only via a lateral manhole with a vertical metal latter.

Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum

The warheads are long gone today – the site was built in the late 1960s, and was emptied of its strategically relevant content in the late 1980s, to be finally ceded back to the Polish government after the withdrawal of all Russian forces from Europe. The cellars today are mainly empty, and used to showcase interesting items related to the site.

First, you can see a scale model of the entire site. In Soviet times, the place was a full scale military base. It included a separated area with living facilities for the troops and their families, who ran the base with both technical and surveillance tasks. Today, this area has been taken over by the government, and used as a prison – Podborsko is rather secluded and far from populated areas on the Baltic coast. Furthermore, as said there used to be two twin bunkers. Today only one has been restored, whereas the other is sealed and waiting for reuse. Between the sectors of the base multiple fences with barbed wire, concrete walls, foxholes and other deterring/defense devices and systems were in place, making the innermost part of the base with the bunkers rather inaccessible.

Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum

An original armored cabinet from the time of operation is still in the corner of a cellar, its original use is uncertain.

In another cellar you can find everyday items and relics from Soviet presence in the area. These range from toothpaste to children’s toys. Also more military-related items, like cartridge boxes and even original Soviet military dog tags have been found scattered over the area!

Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum

You can also find weapons, a scheme of the base in Russian, anti-radiation suits, and parts of the body, control and guidance systems of a Soviet SCUD theater missile – the corresponding warheads being the main business in Podborsko. There is also a copy of the plan of an attack scenario for Western Europe, showing some targets on the respective sides of the Iron Curtain.

Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum

One of the cellars has been left empty, with a mock-up of a warhead, resting on one of the original trolleys. This is particularly evoking, despite being just one out of the high number of warheads usually stored in a cellar. The actual number of warheads residing in each Soviet storage over the years is still today not totally clear. However, reportedly former Soviet staff support there was in a single Monolith bunker in Poland enough nuclear material for the whole attack plan over Europe, meaning a number of several tens warheads per site.

Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum

The trolley is original as said, and it shows the function of the slots on the ground of each cellar, which allowed anchoring the trolley firmly in position. This was possibly needed also in the extreme case of a blast hitting the bunker, so as to avoid any unwanted displacement of the trolleys.

Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum

A fourth cellar displays a set of panels, outlining the history of the Cold War.

Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum

As said, the security triggers telling the status of the door can be found close also to each of the sliding doors of the cellars.

Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum

Before moving to the technical area on the other side of the bunker, a look to the central hall reveals a number of original material. In particular, you can find an interesting set of instruments, handles and gauges packed together in a metal cabinet. Their function was that of monitoring the state of each warhead. Nuclear material needs to be stored in precise conservation conditions, so warheads were kept in dedicated cases. These were inspected regularly by connecting them to the monitoring system and recording the corresponding gauge readings. Traces of the positioning markers for an inspected trolley can be found close to the cabinet, painted on the ground.

Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum

Another conspicuous sight in the main hall is the heating system, needed to keep the inside atmosphere at a constant assigned temperature and humidity level, to guarantee the health of nuclear material. A big array of heat exchangers takes the top part of a side wall in the main hall.

Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum

The technical part is made of two main parts, and is accessible on the long side of the hall opposite to the cellars. One part is made of a blind sequence of three narrow compartments. Here you can find a case for manipulating dangerous chemicals, with protection gloves once protruding inside. Nearby, a sink and some cabinets recall a medical room.

Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum

This area was designed to manipulate and check the triggers of nuclear weapons in use at the time of construction of the Monolith bunkers (late 1960s). These made use of reactive materials, thus requiring some precautions and a complex maintenance procedure. They were phased out soon after the construction of the site though, so this part of the bunker was basically unused since that time. A tight door connects this area to the main hall.

The second part of the technical area is arranged along a U-shaped corridor, starting and ending in the main hall. Similar to the previous technical part, a small sealed door connects the corridor to the main hall.

Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum

The first technical rooms you meet are related to climate control.

Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum

Next you find a big water tank. Close by there is a single toilet. This was reportedly seldom used, as drainage did not work properly due to the underground placement. Watchmen during their shifts in the bunker went out for their physiological needs.

Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum

Going in and out for pedestrians was made possible through a man-sized airlock. This is perfectly preserved in Podborsko, similar to the passage leading up, by means of very steep metal ladders.

Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum

Another interesting sight in the technical area is the air filtering room, which is close to the small living area for the watch staff. In case of an attack to the facility, making the area poisonous possibly also due to fallout, this huge filtering system allowed the troops inside to survive for some time.

Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum

The electric control room is in almost mint condition. Only the major connections to the external power lines – not there any more – have been cut. Same electric connections still bear their original hand written identifiers!

Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum

An original – and rare – handbook with some illustration of standard trolleys is among the artifacts to be found in this incredible exhibition.

Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum

Concluding the technical part, a massive Diesel power generator, with its ancillary air pumping and exhaust expulsion systems, is still there in a rather good state.

Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum

Back outside, the Podborsko site features also a Granit-type bunker, perfectly preserved with its metal doors – seldom found elsewhere. Granit bunkers were much softer in construction than the Monolith-type, and they might be used for storing assembled missiles, command posts and more. The one in Podborsko is another Soviet mystery – it is hard to tell to what purpose it was built, probably in the late 1970s-early 1980s.

Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum

The second bunker, very similar inside to the main one, is sealed and waiting for restoration. You can walk the exterior, where some remains of the truck loading/unloading platforms can be found. Traces of a fence line can be seen to the back.

Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum

Getting there and moving around

The Podborsko site is a branch of the ‘Muzeum Oreza Polskiego w Kolobrzegu’, called ‘Cold War Museum Podborsko 3001’ (‘Muzeum Zimnej Wojny Podborsko 3001’ in Polish). The town of Kolobrzeg is on the Baltic coast, roughly a one hour drive from this bunker, and hosts other branches of this nice museum (a tank and artillery collection, a marine branch,…). The dedicated website of Podborsko is here, to be Google-translated from Polish. The Podborsko site is open on a regular basis at least in summer, and also by appointment. I guess the visit may take about 1 hour once on site.

My visit was a special one though, as I had the chance to join in for a special thorough visit of the site, prepared for Dr. Reiner Helling, a nuclear scientist from Germany, and one of the most knowledgeable historians in the field of Soviet military presence and nuclear assets in Europe. Dr. Helling extended the invitation to me, so I had the unique chance to take a private, tour with the local curators of the branch, Mr. Mieczysław Żuk and Mr. Pawel Urbaniak. We spent some hours touring the site inside and out – special thanks to all three for an unforgettable experience!

Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum
Podborsko Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War Museum

Getting to the bunker is easy by car. Driving will be along an original Soviet service road, which can be faced with a regular city car. You may park once on the spot once there.

Brzeznica Kolonia – Objekt 3002

The site in Brzeznica Kolonia can be found close to the former Soviet village of Klomino – pretty famous in its heyday among the urbex community – and in the vicinity of the airport of Nadarzyce, still active today.

The site has been largely wiped out, but the bunkers and a little more hardware survive, in a ghost condition. However, the site is advertised with some explanatory panels, and it is also quite popular among the locals, which come here to take a couple of pics in a weird scenery.

One of the most portrayed items on the premises of this site is the Granit bunker, which is today lacking its original metal door. Similar to Podborsko, this ‘soft’ bunker was added at a later stage, and its function is to be guessed. Interestingly, some painted stripes can be found on the pavement, possibly marking the position of some trailer or gear.

Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War

Similar to Podborsko, the two major Monolith bunkers are arranged with their respective axes crossed. The eastern one can be accessed from its southern door pretty easily. Inside, it reveals its similarity with Podborsko, except for having being spoiled of any metal part – from the doors to the heat exchangers – and having hosted a wildfire or similar, as can be guessed from the sooth on the walls and ceiling.

Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War

Getting to the underground level from the suspended platform is not safe if you are going alone, like me, as the original metal ladders have been taken away. However, hard spoiling has to be expected also in the technical rooms.

Walking on top of the bunker, you find traces of the man-sized side entrance, completely interred.

Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War

Ahead of the bunker and to the back, traces of the loading/unloading platforms for trucks can be still recognized.

Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War

The westernmost bunker is easy to access from the eastern gate. Inside, it has been spoiled of any metal, similar to its twin brother. It is in a generally better shape though, without sooth on the inside walls.

Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War

In both bunkers, traces of original painting can be found.

In between the two bunkers, a number of smaller buildings are still to be found, including – apparently – a water tank, and some sentry boxes.

Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War

Also, more than in Podborsko you can appreciate a network of foxholes, which despite fading in nature, can be clearly noticed departing from the main roads once crossing this military installation.

Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War

Back to Nadarzyce nearby, you can get access to the former ghost town of Klomino. The majority of the original Soviet blocks have been wiped out, but most incredibly some of them have been restored and are today inhabited. This, and the very bad access road, make this place worth a visit only for completing the tour of this once big Soviet installation, without adding much. There is really not much left to see in Klomino.

Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War

Getting there and moving around

As said, the bunkers are pretty popular among the locals, who go there by mountain bike or car. The site can be accessed via an unpaved service road, totally safe also for a standard car, taking south from Nadarzyce. The parking point is here 53°25’51.0″N 16°34’43.6″E. There are also some picnic tables, an explanatory panel and some warning signs.

Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Brzeznica Kolonia Klomino Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War

Templewo – Objekt 3003

Similar to Brzeznica Kolonia, the Templewo site has been largely reclaimed, and is now partly preserved as an unusual spot in the wilderness. The base has completely gone, but the the monolith bunkers are still there.

They can be found following an original Soviet paved road.

Templewo Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Templewo Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Templewo Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Templewo Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War

Both Monolith-type bunkers can be accessed with little difficulty, despite the gates having being mostly interred, like for Objekt 3002.

Templewo Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Templewo Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Templewo Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Templewo Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Templewo Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Templewo Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Templewo Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Templewo Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Templewo Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Templewo Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Templewo Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Templewo Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Templewo Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Templewo Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Templewo Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Templewo Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Templewo Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Templewo Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Templewo Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Templewo Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War

With respect to the latter, they appear in a generally better shape, albeit stripped of any metal hardware. Again, going down to the underground level is not recommendable if you are exploring alone, as there are no ladders from the suspended platform.

Templewo Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Templewo Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Templewo Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Templewo Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Templewo Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Templewo Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Templewo Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Templewo Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Templewo Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Templewo Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Templewo Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Templewo Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Templewo Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Templewo Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Templewo Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Templewo Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Templewo Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Templewo Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War

Taking a detour from the Monolith bunker area reveals an extensive network of trenches and foxholes, with abundant traces of – dangerous – barbed wire.

Templewo Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Templewo Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Templewo Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Templewo Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Templewo Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Templewo Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Templewo Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Templewo Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Templewo Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Templewo Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Templewo Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Templewo Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Templewo Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Templewo Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Templewo Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Templewo Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Templewo Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Templewo Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War

Finally, a single Granit-type bunker, added to the site at some point similarly to Podborsko and Brzeznica Kolonia, has been completely taken away. Only the side embankments can be seen today, wet and with a slimy puddle in between.

Templewo Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Templewo Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Templewo Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War
Templewo Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Bunker Warhead WMD Monolith Depot Poland Cold War

Getting there and moving around

The site can be reached by car, shortly north of the road connecting Trzemeszno Lubuskie to Wielowies. A parking area, part of the former base, is here 52°25’16.2″N 15°19’10.6″E. No special car needed, you can drive the original Soviet service road with a standard city car. From the parking, you may move north for a very short walk. You will soon find mild warning signs concerning the bunkers.

The area is located next to a huge military proving ground, so loud bangs might be heard quite easily, and you will see signs telling not to go south with respect to the access road to the former nuclear installation. However, the bunkers themselves are out of the danger area, and totally open and accessible.

The Red Army in Hungary – Airbases, Bunkers and Ghost Towns

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Similar to other satellite countries like Poland, Czechoslovakia and the former German Democratic Republic, for decades after WWII Hungary was under the strong influence and de facto military control of the Soviet Union. As a result of the anti-communist revolution of 1956, when the Soviet nearly lost control of the country for a while, a massive Soviet force was stationed in Hungary to prevent further turmoil – the so-called Southern Group of Forces – acting in parallel with the local Hungarian Army, although in a coordinated fashion.

This was reflected by the turning of several existing airfields and training grounds from older times into modern Soviet bases. Their premises, and the territories around them, were completely severed from the rest of the Country, leaving the Soviet forces with a great freedom of action concerning the deployment of unspecified numbers of troops, tanks, aircraft, communication gear, and even nuclear warheads. Furthermore, the families of the Soviet troops stationed in the Country were hosted in dedicated purpose built – or purpose converted, pre-existing – villages.

All this left traces of course, and after the end of communism in Europe, and later the collapse of the USSR, the majority of these installations were either abandoned or converted to some other use. Abandoned – i.e. not converted – Soviet bases and installations in Hungary were pretty many. Today, many of them are being demolished, or are still standing, but severely damaged after years of disrepair. Actually, the best preserved installations are those waiting for conversion or for some yet-to-be-defined destiny, and currently under custody of private owners or the state.

This post is about some of these installations, and it focuses especially – but not exclusively – on storage bunkers for nuclear warheads. Besides being especially appealing to mystery-hunters and urbex explorers, such places are an interesting testimony of the serious attitude of the Soviets towards a war in the European theater. This was considered a likely event in many instances over the decades of the Cold War, from the 1950s to the years of President Reagan’s Strategic Defense Initiative. The money spent over the years by the Soviet Union to build up a dedicated military infrastructure, and the deployment of tactical warheads close to the designated targets in western Europe to prepare for such scenario, show that the USSR did not think of fighting a nuclear-based final battle just as a mere theoretical exercise.

Photographs were taken in August 2020.

Sights

Based on a CIA report dating from 1979 (‘Warsaw Pact Forces Opposite NATO’, Vol.I-II, CREST record number 0005517771, declassified and released in 2010, check it out here), there used to be a small yet significant number of bunkers for the storage of the Soviet nuclear stockpile in Hungary. The following map, taken from this report, shows their approximate location and type.

Soviet Nuclear Bunkers Hungary CIA 1979 Report
Soviet Nuclear Bunkers Hungary CIA 1979 Report

Despite a clear correspondence of each symbol with a Soviet bunker construction type is not readily available, it is possible to reconstruct the information as follows.

The only solid triangle corresponds to a Monolith-type storage bunker, the largest and most sophisticated type of storage in the Soviet standard inventory, made for long-term storage of nuclear warheads. This site is located close to the village of Urkut, in the middle of an extended region, once the largest part of Hungary managed exclusively by the Soviet military. In this area you can find also the headquarters of the Soviet forces in Hungary, the Southern Group of Forces, located in the small village of Hajmasker, as well as the airbase of Veszprem, with an annexed village with housing for military staff and their families.

Monolith-type bunkers were seldom built on the premises of airbases or other military bases. They were prepared mostly in secluded area, shrouded in the vegetation, so as to avoid any unwanted attention as much as possible. They would store high-yield warheads for theater missiles (e.g. SCUD missiles). Urkut is no exception, as there are no airfields close to it. It is shrouded in the vegetation, and far from any village of significant size.

Back to the map, round dots represent Basalt-type storage bunkers, which are most commonly to be found close to airfields. This type of bunker is significantly large, and capable to store air-dropped/launched tactical weapons with nuclear warheads. Two sites are shown on the map, of which only the one on the premises of the former airbase of Kunmadaras could be located.

Finally, the squares correspond to Granit-type storage bunkers. These were of much lighter construction with respect to Monolith and Bazalt, and their purpose could be that of hiding either missile launchers of various size, or command/communication posts. Much has to be guessed about the actual function they had in all places where they were built. In Hungary, three such bunkers are reported on the map, of which the easternmost is on the still active airport of Debrecen, the westernmost is on the small local airport of Heviz (formerly Sarmellek), and the latter is presumably on Tokol, a major airbase in the outskirts of Budapest, Hungary capital city.

In the following you can find some pictures from the storage sites of Urkut, Kunmadaras and Sarmellek, plus pictures from the Soviet bases of Veszprem, Tokol and Kalocsa, and from the former Soviet headquarters in Hajmasker.

Navigate this post – Click on links to scroll

Urkut Monolith-Type Nuclear Storage Site

The Urkut site is also familiarly known as ‘little Moscow’, due to the fact that this site hosted also a very small, perfectly Soviet-style quarter for the troops working on the base, or being trained in the local training center. The site is in a wide and pleasant valley with a north-south alignment. There used to be two access roads which today take from the main (and only) road running along the mostly uninhabited valley, connecting Urkut (to the north) and Nagyvazsony (to the south). The two access roads take you to the main gates, placed to the north and south ends of the complex.

Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary

Similar to other nuclear sites based on the Monolith-type bunker model (see for instance this post for an accurate pictorial description of another one), security was clearly a major concern. Still today, walking in the trees and approaching the base without going the official access roads, you will meet four external fences.

The outer one is made of concrete posts and barbed wire, but today this is mostly gone – which makes it practically more dangerous, as the few remnants of suspended barbed wire are barely visible, and much leftovers are partly hidden by the abundant low-growing vegetation.

Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary

Next you will come to a concrete wall made of prefabricated slabs, with traces of barbed wire on top. This is still today basically impenetrable.

Once in, you will find two further lines of barbed wire, suspended on concrete posts. This double fence of barbed wire is still in very good shape, and creates a watch corridor.

Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary

Inside the perimeter, you can spot a network of trenches and foxholes.

Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary

In Urkut, the training grounds and bunkers are close to the northern gate, whereas to the south you can find the former living quarters for the troops. A prominent training hangar can be found in the northern part of the base.

Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary

Inside, a perfectly conserved mural with the heads of Marx, Engels and Lenin, and Moscow’s Kremlin in the background, is still hanging on top of the main gate.

Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary

Along the hangar, a corridor with classrooms clearly shows the intended function of the building.

Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary

Not far north from this major attraction, you soon meet a smaller technical building, and the southern Monolith bunker close by. Bases centered on the Monolith type typically had two independent twin bunkers built onsite, usually with their axes tilted by 90 degrees, so as to minimize the chance of a single bomb effectively striking both bunkers. This is not the case in Urkut though, as both bunkers are built along an East-West direction. Urkut is different from other Monolith sites also for having been built on the slope of a hill, so connection roads are never flat.

Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary

The warheads reached the bunker by truck. A covered loading/unloading platform can be found on both opposite entrances to the bunker. For the southern bunker, you can see in the pictures the platform is still in very good conditions, with colored signs on the pavement for facilitating movements. Even the lamps are still there!

Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary

The main access to the bunker was via an airlock, with two gigantic square-shaped blast-proof doors on each side. In this pictures you are seeing the western access to the southern bunker.

Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary

The innermost part of the Urkut bunkers is inaccessible, as the inner doors of the airlocks are shut. Yet it is possible to get access to the airlocks. For the southern bunker, going to the eastern access you find a covered platform similar to the western one, yet here the roof has partly collapsed.

Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary

You may open the outer door of the airlock, and get access. Here you can see writing in Russian. The state of conservation is generally speaking extremely good.

Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary

On one side of the eastern loading platform, you can see a standard Soviet military transportable trailer, maybe a local operation control center.

Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary

In order to get to the northern bunker you need to climb uphill, crossing some further inner fences – it was typical to Soviet bases having multiple fences inside military bases, separating parts with different functions and levels of security.

Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary

While loading platforms of the southern bunker are tilted by 90 degrees with respect to the axis of the bunker, for the northern bunker they are aligned along the same direction.

Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary

The eastern access to the northern bunker features is fairly well conserved. Also here, it is possible to access the airlock, but the inner gate is sealed.

Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary

On top of the northern bunker, you can find the ‘pedestrian access’ to the underground cellar. The gates used to carry the warheads in and out were usually kept closed, and the troops or technicians staying inside the bunker, which had provision for a few men overlooking the sensitive ordnance 24/7 in shifts, could enter and leave the bunker via a more modestly sized hatch. This could be reached from the top of the bunker, descending very steep stairs to the level of the bottom of the internal chamber. There you had an airlock, with tight doors the size of a man. These are closed in Urkut, but you can see the external tight door in its original yellow coating with conspicuous writing in Russian.

Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary

The soft construction protecting the access to the stairs is today severely damaged.

Finally, the western entrance to the northern bunker is very similar in shape to the eastern one. The northern gate of the complex is not far from here.

Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary

Also here, the airlock can be accessed, but the bunker cannot be entered.

Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary
Urkut Soviet Abandoned Central Nuclear Warhead Storage Monolith Cold War Base Hungary

All in all, the Urkut site is in an exceptionally good condition in the panorama of Soviet remains. A conversion into a museum would be highly desirable, and would require a very little effort. The fact that the bunkers are closed clearly suggests the inside was not touched, so maybe only basic renovation would be required to make the place a top-notch attraction for Cold War history enthusiasts.

Getting there & Moving around

The site is either on private land or state-owned. In any case, it is not officially accessible. The access roads are guarded, with people (and watchdogs) living on site. Car access on the access road is not allowed either. Walking on the site you may find several vibration sensors with cable connections likely to the booths close to the main access. For these reasons, further indications on access will not be provided.

Soviet Headquarters at Hajmasker Castle

Similar to Wünsdorf in Germany (see this post), Hajmasker Castle was built just before WWI, the focal point of a large military settlement of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. During WWII, it was used as a military command center, and as a local headquarter of the German Army in the latest stages of WWII, when the willingness of a part of the Hungarian establishment to put a quick end to the war by negotiating a peace treaty with the Western Allies caused the Germans to take direct control of that war theater.

After the defeat in WWII and the Soviet invasion, since 1945 the castle hosted the headquarters of the Soviet military in Hungary – just like Wünsdorf in the German Democratic Republic. Again in a totally similar fashion, the symbolic end of Soviet dominance in Hungary was marked by the last train for the Soviet staff leaving Hajmasker for the USSR in 1990.

As said, the castle is what remains of a larger military village. The building is really sizable, with a characteristic prominent tower on the front facade.

Hajmasker Soviet Headquarters Hungary Veszprem
Hajmasker Soviet Headquarters Hungary Veszprem

Walking around the castle you can find a theater hall opposite the tower.

Hajmasker Soviet Headquarters Hungary Veszprem
Hajmasker Soviet Headquarters Hungary Veszprem
Hajmasker Soviet Headquarters Hungary Veszprem
Hajmasker Soviet Headquarters Hungary Veszprem
Hajmasker Soviet Headquarters Hungary Veszprem
Hajmasker Soviet Headquarters Hungary Veszprem
Hajmasker Soviet Headquarters Hungary Veszprem
Hajmasker Soviet Headquarters Hungary Veszprem
Hajmasker Soviet Headquarters Hungary Veszprem
Hajmasker Soviet Headquarters Hungary Veszprem

The walls are pierced, so you can see inside, without getting access to the hall, which appears really one step away from collapse. To the back of the castle you can find traces of a large apron for military use, and direct access to the railway nearby.

Hajmasker Soviet Headquarters Hungary Veszprem
Hajmasker Soviet Headquarters Hungary Veszprem
Hajmasker Soviet Headquarters Hungary Veszprem
Hajmasker Soviet Headquarters Hungary Veszprem
Hajmasker Soviet Headquarters Hungary Veszprem
Hajmasker Soviet Headquarters Hungary Veszprem

Back to the tower, the original gate is not made for large vehicles, and the gracious artistic style of the construction clearly suggests a pre-Soviet design.

Hajmasker Soviet Headquarters Hungary Veszprem
Hajmasker Soviet Headquarters Hungary Veszprem
Hajmasker Soviet Headquarters Hungary Veszprem
Hajmasker Soviet Headquarters Hungary Veszprem
Hajmasker Soviet Headquarters Hungary Veszprem
Hajmasker Soviet Headquarters Hungary Veszprem
Hajmasker Soviet Headquarters Hungary Veszprem
Hajmasker Soviet Headquarters Hungary Veszprem
Hajmasker Soviet Headquarters Hungary Veszprem
Hajmasker Soviet Headquarters Hungary Veszprem

Climbing upstairs, you meet long corridors with traces of the offices of the top-ranking men from the Soviet military. Hajmasker is strategically located close to the region where the Urkut site is (see above), and where the former base of Veszprem is also located. The place is less than one hour from Budapest.

Hajmasker Soviet Headquarters Hungary Veszprem
Hajmasker Soviet Headquarters Hungary Veszprem
Hajmasker Soviet Headquarters Hungary Veszprem
Hajmasker Soviet Headquarters Hungary Veszprem
Hajmasker Soviet Headquarters Hungary Veszprem
Hajmasker Soviet Headquarters Hungary Veszprem
Hajmasker Soviet Headquarters Hungary Veszprem
Hajmasker Soviet Headquarters Hungary Veszprem
Hajmasker Soviet Headquarters Hungary Veszprem
Hajmasker Soviet Headquarters Hungary Veszprem

The view from the top floors of the building further reveals the size of the castle, together with the poor state of conservation.

Hajmasker Soviet Headquarters Hungary Veszprem
Hajmasker Soviet Headquarters Hungary Veszprem
Hajmasker Soviet Headquarters Hungary Veszprem
Hajmasker Soviet Headquarters Hungary Veszprem
Hajmasker Soviet Headquarters Hungary Veszprem
Hajmasker Soviet Headquarters Hungary Veszprem
Hajmasker Soviet Headquarters Hungary Veszprem
Hajmasker Soviet Headquarters Hungary Veszprem

Ahead of the entrance, a Soviet-style apartment block can be found, still inhabited today. Smaller buildings are all around the castle, both modern or from the age of the castle. You can find also the flat building of a former canteen, clearly Soviet-designed and today abandoned.

Hajmasker Soviet Headquarters Hungary Veszprem
Hajmasker Soviet Headquarters Hungary Veszprem
Hajmasker Soviet Headquarters Hungary Veszprem
Hajmasker Soviet Headquarters Hungary Veszprem
Hajmasker Soviet Headquarters Hungary Veszprem
Hajmasker Soviet Headquarters Hungary Veszprem
Hajmasker Soviet Headquarters Hungary Veszprem
Hajmasker Soviet Headquarters Hungary Veszprem
Hajmasker Soviet Headquarters Hungary Veszprem
Hajmasker Soviet Headquarters Hungary Veszprem

Getting there & Moving around

The place is located at the following GPS coordinates: 47.148319, 18.026145. The castle is formally off-limits, but it is totally abandoned and accessed by writers, creepy-ambience-lovers, as well as by the local population. You may park right ahead of the gate among the cars of those living in the local neighborhood. You will be spotted for sure when accessing, but nobody will likely interfere, as access is totally easy (no fences, no barbed wire,…), despite being formally prohibited. Enter at your own risk, as the building looks really rotting, with the roof partly collapsed, exposing wood and bricks as construction materials – considering their age, the high rise of the building and total disrepair over the last decades, this means high risk.

Veszprem Abandoned Airbase & Ghost Town

The old airfield in Veszprem acted as a major helicopter base during the Cold War, but style of the some of the older buildings betrays its 1930s origin as an airbase with annexed training academy. Of course, the Soviets enlarged its structure, and possibly as late as the 1980s they built massive housing in their typical poorly original style.

In the 1990s, with the change in the global strategic situation following the Soviet demise, the Hungarian government got rid of many military infrastructures, and Veszprem was on the list. Since then, the airport was turned into a short-lived base for commercial transport run by a private company, and as of 2020 it is at the center of a dispute, where the local municipalities are trying to get the land for other uses.

What you can see now reflects this state of things – trucks coming and going everywhere between the old buildings of the former airbase, with some demolition work being carried out and some gigantic commercial storage being built close by. The air-side of the airport appears basically dead, with no flights coming or going, not even small private aircraft operating around it. However, a control tower is still on site, so technically speaking the airport appears to be open for operations.

The place deserves a visit especially for getting a glimpse of the large structure of the maintenance hangars. From the outside, they can be spotted from a distance thanks to their tall curved rooftops.

Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary

The hangars have been divided internally in smaller spaces at some point. Getting access is possible in some of them, by the sight is rather desolating since the roof has mostly collapsed, and vegetation is taking over wildly inside.

Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary

Towards the airport you can spot more technical buildings, surrounding a wide apron. These technical buildings are apparently from a later era. The metal doors of the big curved hangars are such that getting larger helicopters in and out would not be possible. Maybe they were actually sized for the smaller aircraft of WWII, and their use was somewhat changed in a later time.

Between the hangars and the runway, you can find an impressive number of smaller maintenance buildings and garages, likely for trucks.

Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary

In some of them, a few signs in Russian can still be found.

Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary

Open air as well as indoor platforms for truck servicing are also there in a number.

Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary

Going even further towards the runway – and very close to it – you may find a light, partly wooden construction, with extensive remains of writings in Hungarian, including boards and stuff related to air operations. Here you see also some ‘modern’ writing in English. This is probably a kind o clubhouse of a local flying school from more recent years, likely the 1990s or later.

Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary

Looking at the satellite map of Veszprem airbase, you will notice a number of buildings put like spokes on a wheel. These were probably part of the original flight academy. These are today in a very bad shape, totally emptied and waiting for demolition. You can still appreciate the sober, yet stylish construction typical of the late 1930s, with some elements in common with Berlin Tempelhof (see this post).

Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary

‘Pravda’ paper was used for gluing the wallpaper in most Soviet bases, and Veszprem is no exception!

Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary

Farther away from the runway, you can easily spot massive buildings from Soviet times, like those you could find in Pripyat (see this post), and almost in every larger city of the former USSR.

Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary

Further buildings feature a rather peculiar style, with stone decoration you would not expect in military buildings. The fantasy of such decoration is not in support of a Soviet make, so these buildings might be from an older era too.

Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary
Veszprem Abandoned Soviet Base Ghost Town Hungary

Getting there & Moving around

As said, this former airbase is technically an active airport, so the area of the runway is likely not safe to go. Yet the level of security is close to null, and you would likely be able to invade the air side before being stopped. However, no aircraft was spotted for the whole length of a multiple hour visit.

The older buildings, including the hangars, as well as the more modern housing from Soviet times, are in a really bad shape, and mostly dilapidated by looters and spoiled by writers. The more modern truck garages and the buildings closer to the runway are in a better shape.

Access by car from the south-western corner is not prohibited, so this may be a good way to get close to the buildings. Large parking opportunities, as the place is mostly unguarded and uninhabited. Just be sure not to interfere with local businesses. Even when spotting your car, the locals will not care about you (this was my case at least), so the place can be visited without much tension. However, for historians this place has not much left in store, and it may be visited mostly for the massive ensemble than for specific highlights.

Tokol Airbase

The former airbase in Tokol is today an active airport. The base used to be a major Soviet asset in the Cold War years, and home to a number of squadrons from the Soviet Air Force and the Soviet Army as well, operating everything ranging from helicopters up in size to transport aircraft. Its extensive premises have been divided, and the state is basically renting most of the hardware – including the former aircraft shelters and aprons – and land to a number of private enterprises, either connected with aviation or not.

The runway is still active for smaller general aviation aircraft, as you can see from the pictures. The place is really a suggestive scenario for pleasure flights, especially for history-fond pilots!

Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War

During our visit we had the chance to access some of the largest air shelters, built in the 1980s for aircraft the size of a MiG-29. There are at least five of them, along with more common and smaller ones.

Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War

Designed for the case of a scramble, these shelters allowed an aircraft to start its engines inside.

Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War

To this aim, the back of the shelter is not closed, but it features a large exhaust deflector tunnel, bent towards the side of the hangar, with a metal door closing it when not in use.

Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War

The front gate of the shelter is blast proof, an its thickness is actually really amazing!

Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War

The hangar we accesses shelters a couple of nice historic aircraft today. Traces of writings in Russian are a testimony of the previous owners.

Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War

Several abandoned buildings, including a rather large one with a small control tower, possibly from an older era – judging from the style similar to some German airfields from Hitler’s times (see this post).

Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War

One of the smaller shelters hosts another private enterprise, operating a unique airworthy Aero L-29 trainer from Soviet times. The same hangars offers a rich collection of Soviet signs on the walls.

Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War

Tokol features a number of older control towers – the reason is hard to guess…

Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War

Climbing one of them, we could get a very good view of the western part of the airfield, with many shelters around. Rather unexpectedly, the tower features an official writing in Chinese – maybe for potential Chinese customers?

Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War

Away from the runway, the airbase unfolds with a network of service roads and a number of buildings from Soviet times, today still in a very good shape, albeit shrouded by vegetation.

Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War
Tokol Budapest Abandoned Soviet Base Aircraft Shelter Hungary Cold War

Getting there & Moving around

Tokol is an active airport, fenced and guarded. Getting in is basically not possible, unless you have a valid reason to enter. We had the chance to get in thanks to the invitation of the owner of the historical Aero L-29 mentioned above, who is also the tenant of the corresponding old aircraft shelter.

Basalt-Type Nuclear Storage on Kunmadaras Airbase

Kunmadaras used to be a major Soviet attack base in Hungary. The place was base for Sukhoi Su-17, Su-24 and MiG-27. This clearly justifies the construction of a Bazalt type storage, for aircraft-dropped nuclear weapons.

As the base is home to some residual, non-military activity and consequently at least lightly guarded, it may be interesting to concentrate on the most unusual nuclear bunker, located in an isolated spot, some .75 miles north of the runway and far from the most active areas.

The road connecting the airport to the bunker, detached in a fashion similar to other Soviet bases (see here and here for more examples), is today completely invaded by vegetation, leaving only a narrow passage to get access to the wide apron where the bunker entrance is located.

Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War

A loading platform for trucks can be spotted to the side of the shelter, ahead of the apron.

Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War

The six pillars, once covered with a roof and holding a crane for loading operations, are still prominently in place.

Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War

The entrance to the bunker is partly hidden by overgrown vegetation. The external curved tight door is gone, similar to the square shaped one deflecting side-ward and creating an airlock by the main entrance. Access is henceforth very easy.

Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War

To the side of the entrance corridor, the technical rooms have been spoiled of any hardware, yet the original paint is still in place, as well as writing in Russian. The metal staircase leading to the rooms for the air conditioning plant on the upper floor has been taken away, making the upper level inaccessible. Air conditioning was pivotal in nuclear storage bunkers, due to the need to store the warheads in specific temperature and humidity conditions.

Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War

Going further in, you finally get close to the gate of the storage chamber. The two halves of the massive curved tight door once closing the chamber have been taken from their posts and left on the ground. This provides a glimpse of the monster size of these blast-proof doors.

Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War

The chamber has turned very humid, and is totally dark. With the help of a torchlight or a camera flash, you can see the walls are still largely covered in their original coat, with painted frames and numbers possibly marking the position of fire extinguishers.

Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War

Electric line or pipeline holders painted in green can be found on one side. Also the pavement features a peculiar colored pattern, painted on a kind of linoleum, today covered in dust and dirt.

Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War

The concrete wall to the back of the chamber has been torn down, and some stones and land have come into the chamber. Bazalt type bunkers had only one main gate to the front.

Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War

Back out, to the north of the hangar, traces of the original barbed wire can be found in the impenetrable vegetation.

Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War

Going north from the shelter, pointing away from the base, you can get a distant view of conspicuous housing for the troops and their families – today completely abandoned.

Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War
Kunmadras Abandoned Soviet Airbase Nuclear Atomic Warhead Bunker Bazalt Hungary Cold War

Getting there and Moving around

As said, the main gate east of the base is guarded, as private companies have taken over part of the premises. However, the nuclear bunker is located north of the airfield, at a safe distance from the former airbase and the businesses going on there today. You may reach close to the base by car along an unpaved road used by local farmers, going parallel to the northern side of the base, keeping about 1 mile from it. This is not suitable for city cars though, so maybe you can stop when you feel appropriate, and go by foot.

To access the bunker area from the road (i.e. from north), you need to go through a field of turn-flowers. My advice is to go along the side of the bunker area to the south of it, and taking the old connection road going from the base to the bunker pointing north – trying to penetrate the area directly from north is made extremely difficult, due to the incredibly dense vegetation.

The area of the bunker is totally abandoned, so you can take your time when visiting the place.

Kalocsa Airfield & Anti-Aircraft Defense Area

Kalocsa airfield, located just northwest of the homonym village famous for the paprika business, was used by the Soviets as a helicopter base. Today, this relatively small airfield is very active with smaller general aviation flights and flight school activities, henceforth it cannot be toured freely.

Kalocsa Abandoned Soviet Airbase Anti Aircraft Defense Missiles SAM Hungary Cold War
Kalocsa Abandoned Soviet Airbase Anti Aircraft Defense Missiles SAM Hungary Cold War
Kalocsa Abandoned Soviet Airbase Anti Aircraft Defense Missiles SAM Hungary Cold War
Kalocsa Abandoned Soviet Airbase Anti Aircraft Defense Missiles SAM Hungary Cold War
Kalocsa Abandoned Soviet Airbase Anti Aircraft Defense Missiles SAM Hungary Cold War
Kalocsa Abandoned Soviet Airbase Anti Aircraft Defense Missiles SAM Hungary Cold War

However, to the northwestern corner, you may easily access the area of a former SAM base, likely put here to defend the airfield from air raids. The area features a number of small almost-circular embankments, with concrete platform at the center. This is where the missile would stand. Looking closely, you may see the concrete ducts for cables and pipes connecting the control trailer to each missile.

Kalocsa Abandoned Soviet Airbase Anti Aircraft Defense Missiles SAM Hungary Cold War
Kalocsa Abandoned Soviet Airbase Anti Aircraft Defense Missiles SAM Hungary Cold War
Kalocsa Abandoned Soviet Airbase Anti Aircraft Defense Missiles SAM Hungary Cold War
Kalocsa Abandoned Soviet Airbase Anti Aircraft Defense Missiles SAM Hungary Cold War
Kalocsa Abandoned Soviet Airbase Anti Aircraft Defense Missiles SAM Hungary Cold War
Kalocsa Abandoned Soviet Airbase Anti Aircraft Defense Missiles SAM Hungary Cold War
Kalocsa Abandoned Soviet Airbase Anti Aircraft Defense Missiles SAM Hungary Cold War
Kalocsa Abandoned Soviet Airbase Anti Aircraft Defense Missiles SAM Hungary Cold War
Kalocsa Abandoned Soviet Airbase Anti Aircraft Defense Missiles SAM Hungary Cold War
Kalocsa Abandoned Soviet Airbase Anti Aircraft Defense Missiles SAM Hungary Cold War
Kalocsa Abandoned Soviet Airbase Anti Aircraft Defense Missiles SAM Hungary Cold War
Kalocsa Abandoned Soviet Airbase Anti Aircraft Defense Missiles SAM Hungary Cold War
Kalocsa Abandoned Soviet Airbase Anti Aircraft Defense Missiles SAM Hungary Cold War
Kalocsa Abandoned Soviet Airbase Anti Aircraft Defense Missiles SAM Hungary Cold War
Kalocsa Abandoned Soviet Airbase Anti Aircraft Defense Missiles SAM Hungary Cold War
Kalocsa Abandoned Soviet Airbase Anti Aircraft Defense Missiles SAM Hungary Cold War

The area of the embankments is connected to an abandoned command building via a narrow paved road. To the western side of the building, traces of a small monument can be found.

Kalocsa Abandoned Soviet Airbase Anti Aircraft Defense Missiles SAM Hungary Cold War
Kalocsa Abandoned Soviet Airbase Anti Aircraft Defense Missiles SAM Hungary Cold War
Kalocsa Abandoned Soviet Airbase Anti Aircraft Defense Missiles SAM Hungary Cold War
Kalocsa Abandoned Soviet Airbase Anti Aircraft Defense Missiles SAM Hungary Cold War
Kalocsa Abandoned Soviet Airbase Anti Aircraft Defense Missiles SAM Hungary Cold War
Kalocsa Abandoned Soviet Airbase Anti Aircraft Defense Missiles SAM Hungary Cold War
Kalocsa Abandoned Soviet Airbase Anti Aircraft Defense Missiles SAM Hungary Cold War
Kalocsa Abandoned Soviet Airbase Anti Aircraft Defense Missiles SAM Hungary Cold War
Kalocsa Abandoned Soviet Airbase Anti Aircraft Defense Missiles SAM Hungary Cold War
Kalocsa Abandoned Soviet Airbase Anti Aircraft Defense Missiles SAM Hungary Cold War
Kalocsa Abandoned Soviet Airbase Anti Aircraft Defense Missiles SAM Hungary Cold War
Kalocsa Abandoned Soviet Airbase Anti Aircraft Defense Missiles SAM Hungary Cold War
Kalocsa Abandoned Soviet Airbase Anti Aircraft Defense Missiles SAM Hungary Cold War
Kalocsa Abandoned Soviet Airbase Anti Aircraft Defense Missiles SAM Hungary Cold War
Kalocsa Abandoned Soviet Airbase Anti Aircraft Defense Missiles SAM Hungary Cold War
Kalocsa Abandoned Soviet Airbase Anti Aircraft Defense Missiles SAM Hungary Cold War

Just south of the command building, a hangar made in 1970 – as the sign clearly says – is today used as a stable.

Kalocsa Abandoned Soviet Airbase Anti Aircraft Defense Missiles SAM Hungary Cold War
Kalocsa Abandoned Soviet Airbase Anti Aircraft Defense Missiles SAM Hungary Cold War
Kalocsa Abandoned Soviet Airbase Anti Aircraft Defense Missiles SAM Hungary Cold War
Kalocsa Abandoned Soviet Airbase Anti Aircraft Defense Missiles SAM Hungary Cold War
Kalocsa Abandoned Soviet Airbase Anti Aircraft Defense Missiles SAM Hungary Cold War
Kalocsa Abandoned Soviet Airbase Anti Aircraft Defense Missiles SAM Hungary Cold War
Kalocsa Abandoned Soviet Airbase Anti Aircraft Defense Missiles SAM Hungary Cold War
Kalocsa Abandoned Soviet Airbase Anti Aircraft Defense Missiles SAM Hungary Cold War
Kalocsa Abandoned Soviet Airbase Anti Aircraft Defense Missiles SAM Hungary Cold War
Kalocsa Abandoned Soviet Airbase Anti Aircraft Defense Missiles SAM Hungary Cold War

Getting there & Moving around

Access to the northwestern corner of the airfield is easy moving by car along an unpaved road going along the western side of the airport, and accessible from a public road running south of it. The area of the missiles is formally on the airport, so you should be careful not to interfere with any activity. More importantly, you are likely on a farmer’s land, so enter at your own risk.

Heviz Airport (formerly Sarmellek Airbase) and Granit-Type Bunker

What is today a small civil airport, surrounded by an array of rotting buildings, used to be a prominent Soviet air base, reportedly operating even the MiG-29 type in its heyday.

Being an active commercial airport, access to the air-side is not possible. Yet the premises of today’s airport are more modest in size than those of the original airbase. As a result, you may get access to a part of the former airbase without interfering with airport operations.

Many local businesses have taken over most of the former shelters for fighter aircraft.

Heviz Airbase Hungary Soviet Abandoned Airport Atomic Nuclear Warhead Bunker Granit
Heviz Airbase Hungary Soviet Abandoned Airport Atomic Nuclear Warhead Bunker Granit
Heviz Airbase Hungary Soviet Abandoned Airport Atomic Nuclear Warhead Bunker Granit
Heviz Airbase Hungary Soviet Abandoned Airport Atomic Nuclear Warhead Bunker Granit
Heviz Airbase Hungary Soviet Abandoned Airport Atomic Nuclear Warhead Bunker Granit
Heviz Airbase Hungary Soviet Abandoned Airport Atomic Nuclear Warhead Bunker Granit

Significant houses and garages, in the shabby pure-Soviet style, are now abandoned, and make for a creepy sight.

Heviz Airbase Hungary Soviet Abandoned Airport Atomic Nuclear Warhead Bunker Granit
Heviz Airbase Hungary Soviet Abandoned Airport Atomic Nuclear Warhead Bunker Granit
Heviz Airbase Hungary Soviet Abandoned Airport Atomic Nuclear Warhead Bunker Granit
Heviz Airbase Hungary Soviet Abandoned Airport Atomic Nuclear Warhead Bunker Granit
Heviz Airbase Hungary Soviet Abandoned Airport Atomic Nuclear Warhead Bunker Granit
Heviz Airbase Hungary Soviet Abandoned Airport Atomic Nuclear Warhead Bunker Granit
Heviz Airbase Hungary Soviet Abandoned Airport Atomic Nuclear Warhead Bunker Granit
Heviz Airbase Hungary Soviet Abandoned Airport Atomic Nuclear Warhead Bunker Granit
Heviz Airbase Hungary Soviet Abandoned Airport Atomic Nuclear Warhead Bunker Granit
Heviz Airbase Hungary Soviet Abandoned Airport Atomic Nuclear Warhead Bunker Granit
Heviz Airbase Hungary Soviet Abandoned Airport Atomic Nuclear Warhead Bunker Granit
Heviz Airbase Hungary Soviet Abandoned Airport Atomic Nuclear Warhead Bunker Granit

Going along a former service road, taking south from the control tower, you end up in the land of a farmer. Where the road ends, you can easily spot beyond the fence marking the current perimeter of the airport, the entrance and the typical round shape of a Granit bunker. The original metal door typical to this type is missing, or maybe it was never installed.

Heviz Airbase Hungary Soviet Abandoned Airport Atomic Nuclear Warhead Bunker Granit
Heviz Airbase Hungary Soviet Abandoned Airport Atomic Nuclear Warhead Bunker Granit
Heviz Airbase Hungary Soviet Abandoned Airport Atomic Nuclear Warhead Bunker Granit
Heviz Airbase Hungary Soviet Abandoned Airport Atomic Nuclear Warhead Bunker Granit

As said, Granit bunkers could be used for a variety of purposes, including storing command and control facilities, or as communication bunkers. The fact that the CIA listed this site as a nuclear depot may be also due to the fact that the Granit bunker made the place ‘nuclear-ready’.

Getting there & Moving around

As said, this is a commercial airport. The entrance to the former airbase gives access to the control tower as well as the small modern terminal area – a new building to the northeast of the runway. As said, the Granit bunker can be reached by taking the service road from the control tower to the south. This is surrounded by desolating dumps and half-demolished buildings. While technically out from the active airport area, you are still likely moving on private land, so enter at your own risk.

The Aeronautical Museum of Belgrade

CarloRLeave a comment

With a few parallels in aviation history, especially in the years immediately following WWII, former Yugoslavia benefited from supplies by a great number of countries. As a matter of fact, the air force of this newborn communist republic was formed at first from leftovers of retreating Germany and conquering Britain, followed by the establishment of a supply line initially from the USSR, and later the US and again Britain.

The special political ability of marshal Tito, who ruled uncontested as a communist dictator since the foundation of Yugoslavia in 1945 until his death in 1980, and the credit he benefited from especially in Britain, allowed him to keep out of the sphere of influence of the USSR since 1948. In a strategic position on the border with NATO countries like Italy and Greece, Tito adopted a detente policy of ‘equal-distance’ between the two opposing blocs over the Cold War period (even though NATO did not trust him fully, as testified by the deployment of a SAM defense line in northeastern Italy, see this post).

Of course, most of the military supply was of Soviet make, especially after the death of Stalin and well until the end of communism in Europe and the bloody fragmentation of the Yugoslav state. However, concerning civil aviation, autonomy from Moscow allowed the adoption of western aircraft, like the French Aerospatiale Caravelle and much of the Boeing and McDonnell-Douglas inventory, in the major national airline JAT – something which happened very rarely anywhere in the communist bloc over the years of the Cold War, another notable instance being Romania, again a ‘semi-autonomous’ communist dictatorship, who refused the Soviet Tupolev Tu-134 in favor of license-built British BAC 1-11s.

Another effect of the autonomy from the USSR was the creation of a national aviation industry, which especially in the case of SOKO, produced military trainers and light attack aircraft of good success, which despite ageing, are still flying today.

More recently, the fierce conflicts raging over the Balkans in the 1990s have created a major active front for modern aviation, where the air force of Serbia – which inherited the geographically central part of Yugoslavia and its capital city, Belgrade – confronted the NATO alliance in an open conflict. The unbalance of forces allowed the western coalition to quickly establish air superiority, which did not come without a few notable material losses however.

A rich display of this peculiar aviation history, actually tracing back to WWI and the early years of aviation, can be found in the Aeronautical Museum of Belgrade, which despite being in today’s Serbia, acts as a kind of Yugoslav Aviation Museum. As a matter of fact, it was founded as such back in the years of Tito, and opened in its current building nearby ‘Nikola Tesla’ civil airport of Belgrade in 1989, when Yugoslavia was still a reality.

This short post provides an outline of what you can find in this museum, with photographs taken on a visit in April 2019.

Sights

The museum occupies a relatively large area in the vicinity of the airport of Belgrade, and is made of an open-air exhibition, open-air storage area, and big mushroom-shaped building hosting an indoor exhibition.

The ‘gate guardian’ is a SOKO J-21 Jastreb, a nice light multi-role aircraft from the 1960s, powered by a British Rolls-Royce Viper jet engine.

Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbian Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbia Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbian Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbia Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbian Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbia Aviation

Indoor exhibition

The entry hall of the mushroom-shaped building features is a good example of the architectural style from the late communist era. The ground floor hosts a small exhibition about the early days of aviation in the former region of the Balkans, with documents from WWI years. Among the items on display, you can find early pilot’s licenses from notable war pilots, likely granted after training abroad, and actually written in French.

Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbian Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbia Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbian Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbia Aviation

The main hall of the museum can be found upstairs. This large can be walked on two levels. Most aircraft are to be found on the lower level, but a few are suspended to the glassy circular sidewall of the mushroom, lighted from behind by the sunlight – so that taking pictures is just a nightmare!

The centerpiece of the collection is an exemplar of the SOKO J-22 Orao, a twin-engined – two Rolls-Royce Viper turbofans – light ground-attack and trainer aircraft from the 1970s. Designed jointly by Yugoslavia and Romania, this model equipped the Yugoslav (then Serbian) air force during the 1990s, where a handful exemplars are still flying today.

Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbian Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbia Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbian Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbia Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbian Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbia Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbian Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbia Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbian Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbia Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbian Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbia Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbian Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbia Aviation

Indeed a clean design with an interesting performance, this aircraft was possibly the last heir of the Ikarus-then-SOKO lineage, originated back in the years before WWII. In this respect, some unique exemplars of aircraft are preserved in this museum, witnessing the existence of a school of skilled aircraft designers in Serbia, not much known in the western world.

A key figure of the Ikarus design bureau, Dragoljub Beslin led the design of Ikarus S-451, a nice, very small, twin-prop attack aircraft flown in 1951, especially designed to sustain high load factors in maneuvers at high speed.

Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbian Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbia Aviation

Another unique specimen is the twin-jet Ikarus 451M, the first jet aircraft built by Yugoslavia. Same designer as the S-451, this unusual jet-engined taildragger flew in 1952, but was soon superseded by more modern models, in those years of quick-paced development of aviation technology. Again, the engines were from the West, in the form of two French Turbomeca Palas turbojets.

Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbian Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbia Aviation

Another member of the ‘Ikarus 451’ family – it must be said this Yugoslav one is likely the oddest model numbering systems ever created… –  the T 451 MM Strsljen (Hornet) features a more convincing configuration, resembling the single-engined British BAC Jet Provost and the Italian Macchi MB 326, both rather successful trainers from the late 1950s. On display is actually the ‘Strsljen II’ version, which is a attack/training version with more thrust than the first series aircraft. This model was conceived to operate from unprepared runways, and featured two Turbomeca Marbore II French turbojets. The aircraft flew in 1958, but an air force contract was not granted.

Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbia Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbia Aviation

Some functional wind tunnel models of other aircraft, actually never reaching the 1:1 prototype stage, are on display. These include a rare ekranoplane design, the UTVA 754. With a mechanic-monster-like appearance like all ekranoplanes (the most famous being probably the Bertini-Beriev preserved at the Russian Air Force Museum in Monino, see here), this machine was designed in 1982 in the then-Yugoslav town of Zagreb, today the capital city of Croatia.

Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbian Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbia Aviation

A medevac aircraft conceived for easy conversion between floats and wheels, the UTVA 66H can be visited also inside. The indigenous SOKO is represented by a number of models. These include the SOKO G-2 Galeb, a successful trainer/light attack aircraft from the 1950s, built around a single Rolls-Royce Viper turbofan. During its long history it was exported to several international operators, and gave birth to the more recent SOKO J-21 Jastreb. The Galeb was in service with Serbia until 1999.

Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbian Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbia Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbian Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbia Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbian Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbia Aviation

Another section of the museum features aircraft of foreign make which witness the intricate history of alliances of both the pre-WWII Kingdom of Yugoslavia and the post-WWII communist Yugoslavia. Most remarkably, these include a Messerschmitt Bf-109-G! The history of this particular aircraft is not very clear, some sources stating it was captured from Bulgarian air force. As a matter of fact, Yugoslavia acquired about 70 Bf-109-E from Germany in 1940, which in turn furiously invaded from north in a quick an violent campaign in spring 1941.

Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbian Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbia Aviation

Next in line is nothing less than a British Hawker Hurricane! A group of Hurricanes were acquired from Britain in the immediate pre-war years, and even license-built in Belgrade in a small number – Yugoslavia apparently purchased aircraft seamlessly from both opponents at the outbreak of WWII. Later on, Hurricane-equipped squadrons of Yugoslavia fought back on the side of the Allies from bases in southern Italy, finally regaining control over the Balkans.

In a similar fashion, a Supermarine Spitfire Mk.V witnesses the involvement of British-supplied national air force squadrons in the liberation of Yugoslavia from the German invaders.

Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbian Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbia Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbian Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbia Aviation

In the closing years of WWII, Yugoslavia benefited also from the help of the USSR. This is witnessed by a massive – and pretty rare, out of former soviet republics! – Ilyushin Il-2 Sturmovik. This big attack aircraft, possibly the most famous Soviet aircraft of WWII, equipped three squadrons in the Yugoslav air force, and helped in the fight on the so-called ‘Srem front’ north of Belgrade. An often overlooked sector of the European front, substantial operations were carried out since late 1944 until April 1945, with the forces of Nazi Germany slowly retreating under the offensive of the Red Army (including Bulgarian divisions) and of Yugoslavia from the south. These operations involved 250’000 troops on either side, thus engaging the Germans and draining resources from mainland defense. At that time, an entire division of the Yugoslav air force were equipped with this aircraft type, kept in service until the 1950s.

Similarly, an elegant WWII Yakovlev Yak-3 fighter of Soviet make can be found nearby in the colors of Yugoslavia.

Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbian Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbia Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbian Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbia Aviation

After the end of WWII, Tito was determined not to surrender his political and economic independence to Stalin. In this high-stake gamble, he made no secret of his thoughts, and sought international recognition from the west. As expected, Stalin showed no sense of humor in that matter, and as the USSR broke relationships with Yugoslavia, this country faced the risk of isolation and of Soviet invasion in the early stage of the Cold War (late 1940s).

Over the years, the good relationship established with the western Allies during WWII were strengthened further, and most incredibly for a communist country, the US provided aircraft and helicopters, in the form of Republic P-47 Thunderbolt, Lockheed T-33 Shooting Star, Republic F-84G Thunderjet and (much later, in the early 1960s) North American F-86D ‘long-nosed’ Sabre.

Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbian Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbia Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbian Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbia Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbian Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbia Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbian Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbia Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbian Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbia Aviation

The years of Kennedy administration saw a significant improvement of the relationship between Tito and Khrushchev, and this led to a switch to Soviet aircraft in the form of the supersonic MiG-21, which equipped the Yugoslav air force in substantial numbers over the following two decades. An exemplar of this iconic and ubiquitous aircraft, an unquestionably well-performing aircraft in his age, is preserved in the museum. By the way, the early 1960s saw also the widespread adoption of SOKO Galeb trainers and the phase out of older British/US models.

Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbian Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbia Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbian Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbia Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbian Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbia Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbian Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbia Aviation

Other peculiar exhibits in the indoor part of the museum are the wrecks resulting from air fight operations during the Yugoslavian wars of the 1990s. On the national (Yugoslav) side, the tail cone of a SOKO G-4 Super Galeb – a totally different design from the quasi-homonym G-2 – damaged by a shoulder-launched Stinger missile in 1991.

Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbia Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbia Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbia Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbia Aviation

But much more material is from NATO countries, resulting from combat during operation ‘Allied Force’ against Serbia in 1999. Most notably, you can see a substantial part of the wing of a Lockheed F-117 Nighthawk, the famous stealth aircraft downed by a vintage Soviet SA-3 Goa surface-to-air missile in March 1999, as well as a landing gear, ejection seat, pilot’s helmet, Vulcan cannon and some smaller parts of a General Dynamics F-16 Fighting Falcon downed the following May, again due to an SA-3 missile. The first stage of the missile which hit the Nighthawk is on display too.

Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbian Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbia Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbian Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbia Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbian Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbia Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbian Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbia Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbian Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbia Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbian Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbia Aviation

These are basically the only aircraft lost in action over enemy territory during that operation.

Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbian Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbia Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbian Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbia Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbian Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbia Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbian Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbia Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbian Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbia Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbian Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbia Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbian Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbia Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbian Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbia Aviation

An apparently easier prey, General Atomics RQ-1 Predator UAVs were used in great numbers, some twenty of them being downed. One wrecked example is put on display.

Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbian Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbia Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbian Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbia Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbian Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbia Aviation

More items of the kind include parts of NATO missiles, including HARM anti-radiation missiles and cluster-bombs containers.

Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbian Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbia Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbian Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbia Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbian Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbia Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbian Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbia Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbian Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbia Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbian Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbia Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbian Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbia Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbian Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbia Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbian Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbia Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbian Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbia Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbian Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbia Aviation

On the upper level, you can find a mostly photographic exhibition mainly about the national carrier JAT. Interestingly, not a single Soviet-made model appears in the pictures, whereas you can find Boeing 707s, 727s, 737s, Douglas DC-9s, McDonnell-Douglas DC-10s, Aerospatiale Caravelles and ATR-42/72s – clearly a strong commercial bound with the West, pretty unusual for a communist country!

Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbian Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbia Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbian Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbia Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbian Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbia Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbian Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbia Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbian Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbia Aviation

Another Yugoslav airline started operations to a later date – Aviogenex. This apparently did use aircraft from the USSR, in particular Tupolev Tu-134s, later flanked by Boeing 737s. Aviogenex ceased operations much later than the end of Yugoslavia, and operated as a Serbian company for some years.

Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbian Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbia Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbian Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbia Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbian Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbia Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbian Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbia Aviation

One of the most iconic brutalist monstrosities in northern Belgrade is the skyscraper which used to host the headquarters of this airline – it looks like a good setting for some ‘Blade Runner’ or ‘Judge Dredd’ movie…

Some more panels include descriptions of airport history and modern operations in the nearby airport of Belgrade. The history line of the national aviation industry is also presented in detail through historical pictures.

Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbian Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbia Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbian Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbia Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbian Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbia Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbian Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbia Aviation

Some more aircraft can be found on this level, as well as a SA-3 Goa missile in a non-operative paint scheme, likely for training or telemetry tuning purposes.

Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbian Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbia Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbian Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbia Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbian Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbia Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbian Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbia Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbian Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbia Aviation

Outdoor exhibition

The large area around the building is split between a small outdoor exhibition prepared for the public, and a larger storage area with many more aircraft which can not be neared nor walked around.

The displayed aircraft include an Aerospatiale Caravelle in the colors of JAT. This exemplar was one of three operated by this airline, and was active between 1963 and 1976.

Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbia Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbia Aviation

A much elder transport, a German (French license-built) Junkers 52 with P&W engines represents a fleet of four such aircraft operated by the Yugoslav air force, complementing another group of originally German aircraft captured during the war.

Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbian Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbia Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbian Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbia Aviation

An aircraft of historical significance is an Ilyushin Il-14 twin-prop transport. This aircraft was a personal goodwill gift from Khrushchev to marshal Tito, and the founding member of Yugoslav presidential fleet.

Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbian Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbia Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbian Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbia Aviation

A couple of Lisunov Li-2 and some original Douglas C-47 Skytrain, of which the former is a license-built Soviet version, are on display, albeit not all complete. A MiG-21 Fishbed and a Kamov twin-rotor helicopter are also on display.

Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbian Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbia Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbian Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbia Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbian Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbia Aviation

Another extremely rare item from the post-WWII years, a Short SA.6 Sealand amphibious aircraft of British make has made its way to Belgrade, after years as a transport aircraft in the Yugoslav air force.

Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbian Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbia Aviation

The non-visible part of the museum features a rather impressive collection of MiG-21 in several versions, SOKO J-21 Jastreb and SOKO J-20 Kraguj in a large number, a SA-2 Guideline soviet-made SAM launcher with two missiles, and a number of partly assembled aircraft and wrecks.

Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbian Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbia Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbian Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbia Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbian Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbia Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbian Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbia Aviation

A mystery item is a part of an allegedly US aircraft, apparently a part of the tail empennage of a bigger transport – any suggestion about this item welcome!

Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbian Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbia Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbian Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbia Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbian Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbia Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbian Aviation
Aeronautical Museum Belgrade Serbia Aviation

Visiting

The museum is located to the northwest of the airport of Belgrade. It can be easily reached by car from the access road going to the main terminal area. Website with info in English here. Parking ahead of the entrance.

The museum can be visited in about 2 hours by an interested subject, much less if you have just a mild interest in aviation. Much paneling is in double Serbian and English language, allowing to get the most from your visit.

Despite being fully operative, the place has a somewhat rotting appearance especially from the outside, as mostly typical to former state-run institutions in former Yugoslavia. Furthermore, some form of protection for the aircraft in the outside exhibition is hopefully to be considered by the management, otherwise the aircraft with literally disintegrate to the action of the elements in a matter of some years.

Spomenik – Iconic Modern Art from Tito’s Yugoslavia

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Soon after the end of the war Tito and the Communist Party of Yugoslavia started a fight against the Soviet Union to escape Stalin’s direct control – a fight where they succeeded, creating in Yugoslavia a unique, truly communist dictatorship totally under Tito’s power, and not just another soviet satellite country.

To make differences from the USSR more apparent, artistic production, often representing an internationally recognized value for a country on the international stage, needed to part from the rhetoric of socialist realism of Stalin’s years. New, original aesthetics were sought, capable of expressing the modernity of Yugoslavia, while being not free from the control of the State, celebrating and promoting unity in a country which had never enjoyed national unity – something later reflected in the bloody split of the 1990s.

Tito’s aesthetic views for the new post-WWII Yugoslavia are greatly reflected in the project for the realization of an array of hundreds of monuments, to be designed and erected in locations scattered over the whole territory of the former Federal Socialist Republic of Yugoslavia. These monuments go under the name of ‘spomenik’ – an internationally known word in the local idiom, simply translating into ‘monument’.

Most of these spomeniks commemorate some bloody facts of the Second World War – most often a local battle between Yugoslav communist partisans and the German Wehrmacht, or the Italian Army of the ‘Duce’, but also clandestine congresses of local subversive communist groups, mass murders by the Axis invaders, and so on. The realization of the project, sometimes fueled by the local interest to keep the memory of a historical fact of regional relevance, but in any case coordinated by the Communist Party, took a long time span, with most of the monuments designed and built over the 1960s and 1970s, before Marshall Tito died (1980).

Besides the historical significance bound to the events they commemorate, two facts make spomeniks an interesting target for curious travelers. The aesthetics of these monuments is often non banal, showing an attention to details and an artistic sensibility which is not usual to communist-ruled countries. In this sense, spomeniks sometimes stand out as very original, interesting – and pretty massive… – works of art. Secondarily, as the events they commemorate often took place in remote areas, spomeniks can be found in incredible natural spots of the former territory of Yugoslavia, immersed in the wilderness or in the middle of a gorgeous natural scenery, not easy to reach and isolated from civilization.

After the end of communism and following the secession wars of the 1990s in the Balcans, many spomeniks fell into disrepair. Today, some of them have been refurbished, while others have been completely demolished, reflecting a mixed feeling of the local population towards this artistic heritage. A good share of them has been simply left behind, gaining the typical ‘ghost aura’ of the architectures of former communist countries.

For hunters of historical relics, spomeniks are double-attractive – not only are they tangible traces of a bygone communist dictatorship with unique traits, but they stand out for their often severe appearance, like traces of a mysterious alien civilization, now long gone.

This chapter presents a handful of these monuments, which you can find along an ideal itinerary connecting the capital cities of todays republics of Montenegro, Serbia, Bosnia & Hercegovina and North Macedonia. These are just a very small set out of the total, yet some of them are among the most famous and artistically valuable. Furthermore, except those in North Macedonia, they can be reached without any substantial detour from the major roads connecting Podgorica, Belgrade and Sarajevo, thus making for an interesting ‘side visit’ on your way from one of these nice cities to the next, on a cultural trip to the area. Similarly, many spomeniks in North Macedonia can be found close to touristic locations. Photographs were taken during two visits, a week-long tour in Spring 2019 (Montenegro, Serbia, Bosnia & Hercegovina) and a long week-end in late Summer 2019 (North Macedonia).

If you are interested in a deeper analysis on the history and art behind spomeniks, or you are looking for a more complete directory of these monuments, please refer to this great resource site.

Map

The following map shows the detailed location of all the spomeniks listed in this post. I personally checked all of them, so the location is very precise. As you will notice, most of them are fairly easily accessible from major or paved roads. Some of them will require a little bit of walking from a parking area to the monument itself.

Navigate this post – click on links to scroll

Sights

Kolašin, Montenegro

This spomenik is actually a one-of-a-kind example of ‘spomen-dom’, i.e. a monument not designed just to be admired from the outside, but conceived as a building, to host meetings and services inside. The site is right in the central square of the village of Kolašin, in the southeast of Montenegro not far from the Serbian border. This town has been a vital center of the anti-fascist resistance in WWII, when the territory was first subjugated by the Italians, and later by the Germans.

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KolasinMontenegroTitoYugoslaviaCommunistMonument
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KolasinMontenegroTitoYugoslaviaCommunistMonument
KolasinMontenegroTitoYugoslaviaCommunistMonument
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KolasinMontenegroTitoYugoslaviaCommunistMonument
KolasinMontenegroTitoYugoslaviaCommunistMonument

The spomenik was designed and built under the supervision of the renowned architect Marko Mušič in the early 1970s. Its age is especially reflected in the use of gray concrete for most of the visible structure. The triangular shape dominating the highest part of the building may recall the typical shape of the traditional houses built in the area – chalet-type, with a triangular roof – or even the tops of the Dinaric Alps all around.

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KolasinMontenegroTitoYugoslaviaCommunistMonument
KolasinMontenegroTitoYugoslaviaCommunistMonument
KolasinMontenegroTitoYugoslaviaCommunistMonument
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KolasinMontenegroTitoYugoslaviaCommunistMonument
KolasinMontenegroTitoYugoslaviaCommunistMonument

Being a building more than a monument, this spomenik is rather big. Today, the village is an active skiing center, thanks to the great position in the mountains. The spomenik is being used for administrative functions, and blends effectively in the central square of the village. Yet its appearance is today so-so, and maintenance is clearly not enough to preserve it for long. As a matter of fact, inspite of the architectural value which gained it a place in books of architecture, a long future for this spomenik is reportedly not assured.

Getting there and moving around

The spomenik is easily reachable right in the city center of Kolasin, a small town with some up-to-date touristic structures for the winter season – the location is really gorgeous. Free parking all around the central square. You can walk around the spomenik without restriction, but stepping inside is possible only compatibly with the local administrative functions.

Berane, Montenegro

Possibly one of the most elaborated spomeniks, the monument in Berane was built on the spot of an ancient Turkish fortress, now totally gone, in a secluded location immersed in a forest close to this contended town. In the close vicinity of the spomenik, nine students suspected of being part of the resistance were executed by the Italians in 1941. The town of Berane changed hands several times during WWII, and it is estimated that about 6’000 people were killed in the area in the military and para-military actions over the war years.

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BeraneMontenegroTitoYugoslaviaCommunistMonument
BeraneMontenegroTitoYugoslaviaCommunistMonument
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BeraneMontenegroTitoYugoslaviaCommunistMonument
BeraneMontenegroTitoYugoslaviaCommunistMonument

The spomenik, designed by the Serbian designer Bogdan Bogdanović, was inaugurated in 1977 on a small grassy field, a really nice spot in the forest. It is mainly composed of a more than 50 ft tall conical dome, with a number of massive dark stone slabs delimiting a regular curved perimeter around it. These slabs are carved with interesting symbolic ideograms, telling – among other things the story – of a local clan.

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BeraneMontenegroTitoYugoslaviaCommunistMonument
BeraneMontenegroTitoYugoslaviaCommunistMonument
BeraneMontenegroTitoYugoslaviaCommunistMonument
BeraneMontenegroTitoYugoslaviaCommunistMonument
BeraneMontenegroTitoYugoslaviaCommunistMonument
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BeraneMontenegroTitoYugoslaviaCommunistMonument
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BeraneMontenegroTitoYugoslaviaCommunistMonument
BeraneMontenegroTitoYugoslaviaCommunistMonument
BeraneMontenegroTitoYugoslaviaCommunistMonument
BeraneMontenegroTitoYugoslaviaCommunistMonument

Today, despite its relative remoteness with respect to the town center, the place is actively maintained, frequented by the locals, and in a definitely good shape. Thanks to the secluded position, as well as to the inscriptions in a fantastic archaic language, this spomenik is very mysterious and particularly fascinating – it resembles a megalithic alignment, or a setting from the Lord of the Rings!

Getting there and moving around

The spomenik in Berane cannot be approached by car directly. You will need to face a steep climb uphill on a well-prepared and maintained trail. A 10 minutes walk uphill is needed for a well-trained person. The location has been used for local concerts and commemorations, and is carefully maintained as a park area.

Ostra, Serbia

This spomenik was built on the site of a battle which took place between opposing factions of locals – some of them collaborating with the Axis forces – in 1943. This was just an episode in the larger confrontation between these groups, taking place in the area of the nearby center of Cacak. Notably, the soviet Red Army contributed to the struggle in the last stages of the Axis occupation period, obviously on the side of the local communist partisans.

The monument, designed by Miodrag Živković and Svetislav Licina, was inaugurated in 1969, and was composed of a concrete slab with an inscription in Cyrillic, and a perspective leading to the focal point of the spomenik – an abstract aluminum sculpture, with a sober appearance, pointing diagonally towards the sky. By looking closely to this monument, you can see stylized human faces in the side of it. The metal sculpture is located on top of a hill, with a very scenic view of the surrounding hills.

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OstraSerbiaTitoYugoslaviaCommunistMonument
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OstraSerbiaTitoYugoslaviaCommunistMonument
OstraSerbiaTitoYugoslaviaCommunistMonument

Despite the metal sculpture being today still in a fairly good condition, the original appearance of the site has been heavily altered by the building an Orthodox church between the concrete commemorative stone and the prominent sculpture. This happened around 2010. Strangely enough, at the time of my visit the church was not open, with parts of furniture provisionally stored ahead of the main door, giving a bad sense of neglect.

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OstraSerbiaTitoYugoslaviaCommunistMonument
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OstraSerbiaTitoYugoslaviaCommunistMonument
OstraSerbiaTitoYugoslaviaCommunistMonument

Clearly, a church built right in the middle of the spomenik area means that there is not a particular good feeling about this monument. Also the inscriptions by the entrance of the perspective are largely spoiled, with many letters now missing. Yet somebody put flowers by the metal sculpture, which is not heavily spoiled by writers.

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OstraSerbiaTitoYugoslaviaCommunistMonument
OstraSerbiaTitoYugoslaviaCommunistMonument
OstraSerbiaTitoYugoslaviaCommunistMonument
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OstraSerbiaTitoYugoslaviaCommunistMonument

All in all, despite the bad general shape and the strong alteration, the location dominating the area and the imposing, sober appearance of the aluminum part is particularly suggestive, and makes for good photo opportunities.

Getting there and moving around

Accessing this spomenik is rather easy. The road reaching the top of the hill is a local asphalt road, which does not pose any special difficulty. Close to the church there is a small parking area, and the metal monument can be reached from there walking on a flat, open grassy area.

Kragujevac, Serbia

What you can find in Kragujevac is not just one spomenik, but a huge and very nice city park with several monuments scattered around. Construction of this park was started by an official decree back in the early 1950s, on the site of the major massacre of Kragujevac. This bloody episode is one of the worst suffered by the civilian population in occupied Yugoslavia, when by the order of the Nazi governors, more than 2’300 from the local population – selected based on race, political views or religion – were systematically killed in a field. The general governor of Yugoslavia responsible for issuing the order – which can be traced back to the German OKW in Wünsdorf – was later trialled for this in Nürnberg after WWII.

The park is still today very well-kept, interdicted to road traffic and only open for walking. Several spomeniks can be found scattered over the park, together with a museum dedicated to the massacre close to the main road access. One of them, and likely the oldest, is the monument called ‘Pain and Defiance’, dating from 1959.

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The most famous, and one of the most internationally well-known, is dedicated to pupils and teachers killed in the massacre. It was designed by architect Miodrag Živković in a distinctive ‘V’-shape, about 25 ft tall and 45 long. Despite looking granite, it is made of almost-white concrete. On the face of the monument, it is possible to spot the shapes of human faces and figures. This monument was inaugurated in late 1963.

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Located on a gentle slope on the side of a grassy valley, this spomenik occupies a really nice and quiet spot. The nice and peaceful walk leading to it encourages remembrance.

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Getting there and moving around

The park is a very well-kept city park, crossed by a few roads which are interdicted to general traffic – basically no cars can enter, I guess these roads can be accessed by car only on special commemorations or similar occasions. Parking is easy close to the museum – itself a rather distinctive construction. A big map of the site can be found on a post close to the parking area (see pics above), and several signs allow you to tour the park, meeting the many monuments according to your interests. Reaching the ‘V’-shaped monument from the main access involves a 10-15 minutes walk along a perfectly prepared road.

Kosmaj, Serbia

Possibly one of the most iconic of all spomeniks, the Kosmaj monument is located on top of a hill, and partly visible from quite a distance, emerging from the treetops. The location was chosen as the foundation site of the Kosmaj partisan detachment, who contributed substantially to the resistance efforts against German occupation forces, with thousands effectives killed or wounded.

The monument was designed by sculptor Vojin Stojić, and unveiled in 1971.

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The sinister shape of this monument, looking like an alien creature landed on top of the hill, on an isolated spot far from civilization, may strongly appeal to hunters of weird places. What further adds to the ‘mystery aura’ of the place is the fact that, while generally not in a bad shape and far from rotting, the monument appears somewhat forgotten – far from everything, little maintained or looked after.

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Another impressive feature which is rarely captured by photographs, is that this object is about 90 ft tall! Access is via a poorly maintained stair, or by a little longer access walkway. Getting closer, you have a clearer impression of its gigantic size. The five concrete pinnacles composing the monument and making for a spiky whole from the distance, are actually separated from each other. The monument appears to change shape continuously as you walk around and under it, making it very interesting to watch from different angles.

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Considering the remote, silent location, the late evening time of my visit, and the wind blowing in the trees, this was possible the most mysterious and magnetic of the spomeniks I could see on this trip!

Getting there and moving around

Due to its size and prominence, the Kosmaj spomenik was conceived as the focal point of an area for war commemorations, as well as for more widely themed social events. The area on top of the hill comprises a football field, a playground and parking areas. All this today is far less used than in the communist era, and its ‘ghost appearance’ adds greatly to the mystery aura of the place. The spomenik can be accessed along a one-way loop road, going around the top of the hill. Today you can freely get access to this road and get very close to the spomenik with your car. The monument can be finally reached via a poorly maintained, short concrete staircase, or via a longer walkway. I would say access is of course very easy. The location is also reasonably close to Belgrade, with a modern highway connecting the area with the Serbian capital city.

Avala, Serbia

This monument stands out of the crowd of the Yugoslavian spomeniks for it is not built to commemorate an event of WWII, but instead it remembers the fatal crash of a passenger flight, which occurred in approach to Belgrade. The year was 1964, and the flight was carrying 22 Soviet war veterans, who had participated in the ‘Liberation war’ of Yugoslavia against the Germans, from Moscow to a commemoration ceremony to be held the following day. The cause of the accident was never clearly determined, but it was likely due to a technical mishap.

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The bronze spomenik you can see today was designed by sculptor Jovan Kratohvil on the very location of the crash, and inaugurated in 1965 on the first anniversary of the fatal accident. The names of the war veterans who perished are recorded on a stone.

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This monument is more modest in size than most famous spomeniks, and the good quality of materials, its proportion and the great view over the hills leading to Belgrade – the famous Avala tower, with its famous panoramic deck, is less than a mile from here – make for a very nice and scenic ensemble. Furthermore, the mint state of conservation is really noteworthy.

Getting there and moving around

This spomenik can be reached along the same loop road going to the Avala WWI memorial and to the Avala tower with its panoramic view. There is a small parking nearby, and access is via a short staircase which is already part of the monument. The monument is well cared for, and the area is rather busy with local and international tourists.

Kadinjača, Serbia

The scenic spot where this extensive monumental ensemble has been arranged was the setting of one of the first battles between the partisan army – a group called the ‘Workers’ Battalion’ – and the German Wehrmacht. The latter was trying to reach the town of Užice, giving shelter to the top ranking staff of the Liberation army, including Marshal Tito. The battle was finally lost by the partisans in 1941, but they allowed the local population and the partisan commanders to flee the area, before the Germans troops poured in.

The area of the final fight was selected for a national monument as soon as 1952. A plain obelisk was put in place. Years later, in 1979, a huge monument designed by Miodrag Živković was unveiled at the presence of Tito, with a huge crowd attending.

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The plan of the monument has its focus in the old prismatic monument of 1952. Around it, an interesting ensemble was added in 1979, with an amphitheater on one side, and two sets of granite and concrete abstract sculptures on the other.

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A first group of sculptures, with very stylized human faces emerging from the sides and on top of the stones, constitute a first circle.

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A second group is made of massive white slabs, culminating in one loosely resembling an armor pierced by a bullet. The installation is about 300 ft long, and the ‘pierced armor’ piece is about 45 ft tall. Yet the group is well proportioned and blends perfectly in the panorama around it.

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The great state of conservation is testified by a modern multi-language placard with explanations about the history of the place. The spomenik is complemented by a museum and by a few weapons permanently displayed outside – themselves a memorial of the battle fought in the area.

This is a popular tourist destination, on the road going to nearby Visegrad (in Bosnia & Hercegovina), with its famous ancient Ottoman bridge.

Getting there and moving around

This spomenik is difficult to miss, visible from quite afar and perfectly accessible from a major road. Extensive parking ahead of the museum. Walking around does not pose any particular difficulty.

Tjentište, Bosnia & Hercegovina

Really an iconic masterpiece in the panorama of Yugoslav spomeniks, the monument in Tjentište benefits also from the fantastic location in the mountain range marking the border between Bosnia & Hercegovina and the republic of Montenegro. The proportions of the scenic views of this mountainous area are really more typical to the Americas than Europe!

This famous ‘winged’ monument is located on the area of a bloody battle fought in spring 1943, when the Axis force attacked some partisan groups commanded directly by Marshal Tito, in a deliberate attempt to kill their commander, hoping that in so doing they would succeed in undermining the rebel force. In the ensuing battle of Sutjeska around 7’000 besieged partisans were killed, but Tito finally was able to escape the area.

This battle acquired a special, almost mythological meaning in the history of communist Yugoslavia. A first commemoration stone – actually a mass grave for some thousands partisans – was put in place already in 1958, whereas the huge spomenik you see today, designed by Miodrag Živković, was unveiled in 1971 at the presence of Tito, who reportedly put much personal attention on the realization of this very monument.

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The two massive concrete wings are enriched by human faces, only sketched and arranged so to form the roots of the wings themselves. Looking closely, you realize that the two monoliths are different from one another. Furthermore, their irregular, strongly 3D shape makes them look different depending on the point of view.

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The monument is located half way on an ascending slope. Going further uphill you meet a termination point of the perspective, where the names of several partisan brigades are recorded. Looking down to the wings, you see them taking yet another shape!

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This monument blends really well with the majestic scenery around. While being a sober and proportioned work of art, it is at the same time massive and sinister. The ensemble is really an artistic masterpiece, yet it bears some authentic ‘Yugoslav-communist style’ marker, making it a somewhat paradoxical ‘official communist ghost’!

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On the side of the perspective leading to the winged monument, there is another spomenik – actually a ‘spomen-dom’ – which is known for hosting commemoration inscriptions and rare war-themed artistic frescoes, which were unfortunately damaged in the 1990s wars.

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While in the years of Tito this was one of the most visited national monuments in the Country, its fame went down dramatically with the end of communism and with the following wars of secession, which struck heavily in this uninhabited valley reaching to ill-fated Sarajevo. With this in mind, the main perspective and the winged monument are surprisingly well kept, and they are gaining further popularity among relic-hunters, thanks to the undeniable charm of this spomenik. There are reportedly several other less prominent spomeniks in the area of the 1943 battle, including the ‘spomen-dom’, but unfortunately I had not the chance to investigate further about their state of conservation.

Getting and there and moving around

Getting there is possible along a national road going from Sarajevo to central Montenegro. Free parking is available at the base of the perspective leading to the winged monument. Getting closer to the latter involves climbing a flight of stairs. To get to the far end of the perspective you will need to climb another conspicuous flight of stairs. The winged spomenik is very well kept, and the area is really scenic – today it is a national park -, really justifying a detour from Sarajevo, or choosing this road to go to Montenegro from the Bosnian capital city.

Obadov Brijeg, Montenegro

This spomenik is an example of smaller designs, which constitute the majority of these monuments around former Yugoslavia.

The ‘bird-like’ monument in Obadov Brijeg, not far from the famous Orthodox monastery of Ostrog – built in the side of a mountain ridge nearby -, commemorates the victorious fight against the retreating Germans in fall 1944 of a coordinated force of local partisans troops, British artillery and Allied aircraft.

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The spomenik was designed by the renowned architect Slobodan Vukajlović, and unveiled in 1974.

Unfortunately, as of today, this small monument appears little respected – mostly used as a roadside dump by travelers.

Getting there and moving around

Totally easy to reach if you are traveling north on the M18 road. The site is immediately visible when passing by, it is easily accessible thanks to a small rest area nearby, but unfortunately not well maintained and even dangerous to come close to, due to the garbage around it.

Golubovci, Montenegro

This monument by the local architect Vukota Tupa Vukotic was erected in 1974 close to the airport of Podgorica, the capital city of Montenegro, which received the name of Titograd in the years of communist Yugoslavia. This happened in recognition of its sacrificial role in the years of WWII, when after the Germans took over control of the area conquered by Italians, following the end of fascism in Italy in 1943, the city was stricken by heavy Allied aerial bombing, causing its almost complete destruction.

Podgorica was strategically located along a communication route going to the occupied territories of Albania and Greece, and for this reason the German Army was particularly present in the area – thanks to the airbase already in place in WWII. As a result, attrition with local partisans caused further casualties.

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The monument commemorates the action of the partisans in the area. The abstract sculpture is sober and well proportioned. Besides the focal point – the sickle-shaped object in the middle of the construction – there are metal panels with a more traditional iconography, portraying battle scenes, as well as writings and tombstone-like stone panels.

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The ensemble is located in residential area very close to the airport, and is actively maintained, so it has a sober, not derelict aspect.

Getting there and moving around

Very easy to reach along a major local road on the western side of the airport. Parking nearby is easy, and there are no major obstacles impeding access. The monument is well-kept and cared after.

Barutana, Montenegro

This spomenik honors the many losses experienced by the population from the area west of Podgorica in the Balcan wars, WWI and WWII. Three distinct monuments based on the same design are located on the side of an ascending path, leading to a double terrace on top of the monument.

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Half of the double terrace features a full-scale amphitheater, with small granite seats forming a nice ensemble. The focal point of the double terrace is a torch-like sculpture about 30 ft tall, made of several separated adjoining components.

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Between the torch-shaped sculpture and the amphitheater there is a stage. The object was created for meeting purposes, especially for schools but more generally for social events. Traces of the lighting for night performance can be still be seen.

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This nice ensemble was completed in 1980 after a five-years-long construction work. The design is due to the local architect Svetlana Kana Radević.

Unfortunately, the place is not maintained any more, and while still in a relatively good shape – sufficiently far from downtown Podgorica to be spared misuse and vandalism – it is apparently falling into oblivion. This adds to the ‘communist ghost’ aura of the place, which you can perceive also in plain sunlight!

Getting there and moving around

This spomenik can be spotted from the road going from Podgorica to the coast. It is located immediately on the side of the road, but the only feature you see when driving by is the torch-like monument – vegetation is hiding the base of the monument. There are three small access roads, and once there you find a large parking area. The monument is not degraded – no garbage around – but it is clearly in need of restoration works. The stairway gently ascending to the top terraces are consumed and will be soon unserviceable.

Botun, North Macedonia

The Botun monument commemorates the struggle of the local partisans from all over the area, known as Debarca. This is located northeast of Ohrid, a very nice touristic town on the coast of a beautiful lake, close to the border with the Republic of Albania. The combatants from this area managed to liberate the area from the Italian-backed occupying forces in Spring 1943, well before Italy surrendered to the Allies in 1943. The Wehrmacht then retook control of the region until 1944, when communist partisans finally repelled the Germans.

This rather unique episode is celebrated through a rather simple monument, apparently composed by two stone wings or flames, surrounding a central body bearing a commemorative inscription.

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Unfortunately, the monument is in complete disrepair, the pavement basically disintegrating due to poor maintenance.

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The overgrown vegetation hides luckily hides small deposits of garbage. Yet the location in the deep of a wild valley makes it potentially interesting as a stop along a major road.

Getting there and moving around

The Botun monument is easily reached along the E65, connecting Ohrid Airport to the north and Skopje. It is immediately on the side of the road, easier to access when driving south. There is small parking space at the level of the road where the small access roads depart to the monument apron. The site is not maintained, but not difficult to access or tour either.

Struga, North Macedonia

The spomenik in the town of Struga, on Ohrid Lake, designed by Vojislav Vasiljević, was delivered in 1974. It commemorates the more than 300 casualties in the Macedonian ranks from the Struga area during WWII. The area fell under control of the Italian-backed kingdom of Albania until mid-1943, when after a short independence it was occupied by the Germans.

The monument is rather simple, but differently from the majority of spomeniks it is located right in the city center. The composition, made of a small mound with access stairs and a white spike on top of it, is rather difficult to miss.

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On one side of the monument, abstract in nature, a rather kitschy representation of an infantry charge has been added possibly in a later stage.

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There is also a side commemoration panel with writings in Cyrillic. The monument has been reportedly refurbished in 2019, and its appearance is consequently good (apart from small vandal printing on the sides you can see in the pictures).

Getting there and moving around

Reaching the monument is possible by foot. It is located in the middle of the town, on Marshal Tito square. You may leave your car in one of the many parking areas around central Struga and walk along the river to get to the monument.

Oteševo, North Macedonia

Little is known of this monument, unveiled in 1973 on the side of a hill overlooking Prespansko Lake, on the border between North Macedonia, Albania and Greece. The architects are Jordan Grabul and Boro Josifovski.

The area appears to be a former touristic location for lakeshore activities. Today it is still very nice from a natural standpoint, yet the touristic centers – hotels, camping area, … – from the communist era are now closed, and make for a mysterious setting.

The spomenik resembles a flame, put on top of a stone stair. You can see an original inscription, as well as a star decoration in the base of the flame. On one side you can still find a flagpole.

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OtesevoNorthMacedoniaTitoYugoslaviaCommunistMonument
OtesevoNorthMacedoniaTitoYugoslaviaCommunistMonument
OtesevoNorthMacedoniaTitoYugoslaviaCommunistMonument
OtesevoNorthMacedoniaTitoYugoslaviaCommunistMonument
OtesevoNorthMacedoniaTitoYugoslaviaCommunistMonument
OtesevoNorthMacedoniaTitoYugoslaviaCommunistMonument
OtesevoNorthMacedoniaTitoYugoslaviaCommunistMonument
OtesevoNorthMacedoniaTitoYugoslaviaCommunistMonument

The monument is in a so-so condition. It is sufficiently far from the road to having been spared major vandalism. The staircase is in a relatively good condition, and vegetation is not excessively overgrown. On the other hand, it is apparently not of great interest for the local population, which do not advertise it at all.

Getting there and moving around

The monument can be reached very easily from the road R1307 in Oteševo. The village is rather unapparent, and the monument is shrouded in the vegetation. You may notice the stair access from the road. Parking at the base of the stairs is difficult, but you may find a parking place ahead of the gate of the nearby camping site – as of 2019, apparently largely abandoned.

Kruševo, North Macedonia

This spomenik is possibly one of the best known in and outside of former Yugoslavia. This is somewhat paradoxical, as the monument came out with significant delay and after much controversy. On the other hand, maybe its fortune especially after the end of communism is partly due to its dedication – it was built to celebrate a huge uprising of the local population against the Turks in 1903, led by a local school teacher named Nikola Karev, settled in blood by an entire army of the Ottoman empire.

The lack of an immediate link to WWII events and communist-led struggles generated some criticism, but this actually came after some years were spent trying to find a compromise concerning the design itself. The architects, Jordan and Iskra Grabul, despite a proven communist faith, had a very hard time with the state commission who had issued the design.

The monument was finally unveiled in 1974, on a hill just out of the Krusevo village. It is composed of a gently ascending access road, with small monuments resembling broken chains. A first stop along the access road is a kind of open air crypt, with protruding cylinders bearing the names of places and people linked to resistance actions in the history of Macedonia. Apparently, no one from WWII years is included.

KrusevoNorthMacedoniaTitoYugoslaviaCommunistMonument
KrusevoNorthMacedoniaTitoYugoslaviaCommunistMonument
KrusevoNorthMacedoniaTitoYugoslaviaCommunistMonument
KrusevoNorthMacedoniaTitoYugoslaviaCommunistMonument
KrusevoNorthMacedoniaTitoYugoslaviaCommunistMonument
KrusevoNorthMacedoniaTitoYugoslaviaCommunistMonument
KrusevoNorthMacedoniaTitoYugoslaviaCommunistMonument
KrusevoNorthMacedoniaTitoYugoslaviaCommunistMonument
KrusevoNorthMacedoniaTitoYugoslaviaCommunistMonument
KrusevoNorthMacedoniaTitoYugoslaviaCommunistMonument
KrusevoNorthMacedoniaTitoYugoslaviaCommunistMonument
KrusevoNorthMacedoniaTitoYugoslaviaCommunistMonument

At the end of the road, on top of the hill, you can find a small open-air theater surrounded by curved walls decorated with colored tiles and sculptures.

KrusevoNorthMacedoniaTitoYugoslaviaCommunistMonument
KrusevoNorthMacedoniaTitoYugoslaviaCommunistMonument
KrusevoNorthMacedoniaTitoYugoslaviaCommunistMonument
KrusevoNorthMacedoniaTitoYugoslaviaCommunistMonument
KrusevoNorthMacedoniaTitoYugoslaviaCommunistMonument
KrusevoNorthMacedoniaTitoYugoslaviaCommunistMonument
KrusevoNorthMacedoniaTitoYugoslaviaCommunistMonument
KrusevoNorthMacedoniaTitoYugoslaviaCommunistMonument
KrusevoNorthMacedoniaTitoYugoslaviaCommunistMonument
KrusevoNorthMacedoniaTitoYugoslaviaCommunistMonument
KrusevoNorthMacedoniaTitoYugoslaviaCommunistMonument
KrusevoNorthMacedoniaTitoYugoslaviaCommunistMonument

The axis of the theater is aligned with the main body of the monument, a very peculiar construction, roughly spherical, with many tubular protrusions pointing radially from the surface. Whatever the intended meaning, it looks like a virus or something else from a biology book. Access to the sphere is through an inclined footbridge leading to a door.

KrusevoNorthMacedoniaTitoYugoslaviaCommunistMonument
KrusevoNorthMacedoniaTitoYugoslaviaCommunistMonument
KrusevoNorthMacedoniaTitoYugoslaviaCommunistMonument
KrusevoNorthMacedoniaTitoYugoslaviaCommunistMonument
KrusevoNorthMacedoniaTitoYugoslaviaCommunistMonument
KrusevoNorthMacedoniaTitoYugoslaviaCommunistMonument
KrusevoNorthMacedoniaTitoYugoslaviaCommunistMonument
KrusevoNorthMacedoniaTitoYugoslaviaCommunistMonument
KrusevoNorthMacedoniaTitoYugoslaviaCommunistMonument
KrusevoNorthMacedoniaTitoYugoslaviaCommunistMonument
KrusevoNorthMacedoniaTitoYugoslaviaCommunistMonument
KrusevoNorthMacedoniaTitoYugoslaviaCommunistMonument

During my visit, the door was unfortunately locked closed. Inside you can find the grave of Nikola Karev, as well as interesting wall reliefs.

Another interesting feature are the four stained glass windows. Colored with different palettes, the light produces nice reflections inside the spomenik. Luckily, something can be seen also from the outside in a sunny day.

KrusevoNorthMacedoniaTitoYugoslaviaCommunistMonument
KrusevoNorthMacedoniaTitoYugoslaviaCommunistMonument
KrusevoNorthMacedoniaTitoYugoslaviaCommunistMonument
KrusevoNorthMacedoniaTitoYugoslaviaCommunistMonument
KrusevoNorthMacedoniaTitoYugoslaviaCommunistMonument
KrusevoNorthMacedoniaTitoYugoslaviaCommunistMonument
KrusevoNorthMacedoniaTitoYugoslaviaCommunistMonument
KrusevoNorthMacedoniaTitoYugoslaviaCommunistMonument
KrusevoNorthMacedoniaTitoYugoslaviaCommunistMonument
KrusevoNorthMacedoniaTitoYugoslaviaCommunistMonument
KrusevoNorthMacedoniaTitoYugoslaviaCommunistMonument
KrusevoNorthMacedoniaTitoYugoslaviaCommunistMonument
KrusevoNorthMacedoniaTitoYugoslaviaCommunistMonument
KrusevoNorthMacedoniaTitoYugoslaviaCommunistMonument
KrusevoNorthMacedoniaTitoYugoslaviaCommunistMonument
KrusevoNorthMacedoniaTitoYugoslaviaCommunistMonument
KrusevoNorthMacedoniaTitoYugoslaviaCommunistMonument
KrusevoNorthMacedoniaTitoYugoslaviaCommunistMonument

One of the most celebrated spomeniks – even portrayed on local currency notes and recently photographed in international reviews – this item is maintained in perfect conditions as a national shrine, and social events like music festivals are held on its premises.

Getting there and moving around

Accessing this spomenik, aka ‘Macedonium’ is easy to the far end of the village of Krusevo. Thanks to its official role, it boasts a large parking ahead of the access road, with some explanations on dedicated panels. Beware of a big museum just on the other side of the parking – it is dedicated to a local music star prematurely died in an accident, it is not linked to the spomenik.

 

Hitler’s Mystery Mega-Structures in Central Europe

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During the last two years of WWII, the Wehrmacht of Nazi Germany was slowly retreating from the eastern front, pushed back by the mighty blows of the Red Army. The bombing runs carried out by the western Allies from airfields in Britain were systematically hitting most urban centers in mainland Germany and over the territory occupied by the Nazis. It is hard to imagine, but it was in the year 1944, when the destiny of Germany was almost sealed, that industrial production in Hitler’s Third Reich reached an all-time record.

At that time the Germans were desperately short of fuel, raw materials and troops, and their production efforts would not spare them from a complete defeat in 1945. Yet it was in the last stages of the war that some of the most ambitious industrial facilities were designed, built and in some cases made operative before the end of the war.

The driver of the design was in most cases the need to move production lines to secluded and well protected areas, difficult to spot and to destroy through air bombing. As a result, these sites were placed far from urban centers. They were also designed to withstand bombing, by putting them underground, or building them with substantial reinforcement, making large use of one of Nazi Germany’s favorite materials – reinforced concrete.

In this chapter two major sites of this kind are described. One is in southwestern Poland, a region which had been part of the German Empire for long before WWII. The second is in eastern Bayern, today one of Federal Germany’s most prosperous states, close to the border with the Czech Republic. Photographs were taken in late summer 2018.

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Sights

Project ‘Riese’, Poland

Construction around this cluster of underground sites started in late 1943, and reportedly lasted until the closing stages of WWII, just days before the Soviets entered the region. The name ‘Riese’ means ‘giant’ in German, and it is surely well suited for this complex, which while far from finished is really striking in size. It was actually composed of at least six major construction sites, which in the intention of their designers should have been developed deeper in the mountains, until a link could be established between them forming a formidable network of tunnels and large halls.

Besides the size and historical meaning of these sites, what makes project ‘Riese’ so fascinating is also the actual purpose of this incredible complex is far from established. Three major theories exist in this respect. The complex might have been intended to be an underground industrial city, a kind of Noah’s Ark for the ‘superior race’ embodied by the top-ranking military and governmental staff of the Reich, or a gigantic secret laboratory for innovative technologies.

What is sure is that the construction was carried out by forced labor, mainly by prisoners of Gross-Rosen concentration camp, just a few miles north of the complex. For the scope, the Nazis created a number of satellite camps next to the entrance of the  construction sites. Rather incredibly, only very scant traces of the project remain in the written records of key figures of Nazi Germany – Albert Speer’s personal diary notably reports some millions marks allocated for project ‘Riese’, and at some point after the war he cited the item resulting from the completion of the construction works, whatever its purpose, as sized to be capable of hosting some tens of thousands people.

Today, six construction sites have been discovered, of which two – Osowka and Rzeczka, the most conspicuous – have been opened to the public, whereas the other are visitable basically for speleologists only.

Osowka

The first visitable site is in the town of Osowka. This site is composed of two parts, one underground with access from the side of a hill, the other close to the top of the same hill.

The underground part can be visited only with a guide. The plant of the completed construction features two accesses, and you will be driven in using the first and out using the other. Between the entrances, the site is mainly composed of an array of parallel tunnels pointing towards the mountain, connected by long halls.

Project Riese Hitler's Mystery Installation Poland Osowka
Project Riese Hitler’s Mystery Installation Poland Osowka
Project Riese Hitler's Mystery Installation Poland Osowka
Project Riese Hitler’s Mystery Installation Poland Osowka

Close to the entrance you can spot a concrete guardhouse with loopholes for machine guns. Some wooden structures like in a mine have been put in place to give an idea of the appearance of the working technique at the time of construction.

Project Riese Hitler's Mystery Installation Poland Osowka
Project Riese Hitler’s Mystery Installation Poland Osowka
Project Riese Hitler's Mystery Installation Poland Osowka
Project Riese Hitler’s Mystery Installation Poland Osowka
Project Riese Hitler's Mystery Installation Poland Osowka
Project Riese Hitler’s Mystery Installation Poland Osowka
Project Riese Hitler's Mystery Installation Poland Osowka
Project Riese Hitler’s Mystery Installation Poland Osowka
Project Riese Hitler's Mystery Installation Poland Osowka
Project Riese Hitler’s Mystery Installation Poland Osowka
Project Riese Hitler's Mystery Installation Poland Osowka
Project Riese Hitler’s Mystery Installation Poland Osowka

Most tunnels have been dug but not reinforced with concrete walls, whereas others are almost complete, showing a peculiar two-level design. The lower level features a smaller section, and the top one a taller, round shaped section.

Project Riese Hitler's Mystery Installation Poland Osowka
Project Riese Hitler’s Mystery Installation Poland Osowka
Project Riese Hitler's Mystery Installation Poland Osowka
Project Riese Hitler’s Mystery Installation Poland Osowka
Project Riese Hitler's Mystery Installation Poland Osowka
Project Riese Hitler’s Mystery Installation Poland Osowka

A feature of the ‘Riese’ complex is a special technique for building the inner concrete coat of the rocky tunnels, producing the distinctive ‘church-ceiling-like’ appearance of some of the halls, with a round shape and frames close to one another.

Project Riese Hitler's Mystery Installation Poland Osowka
Project Riese Hitler’s Mystery Installation Poland Osowka
Project Riese Hitler's Mystery Installation Poland Osowka
Project Riese Hitler’s Mystery Installation Poland Osowka
Project Riese Hitler's Mystery Installation Poland Osowka
Project Riese Hitler’s Mystery Installation Poland Osowka
Project Riese Hitler's Mystery Installation Poland Osowka
Project Riese Hitler’s Mystery Installation Poland Osowka
Project Riese Hitler's Mystery Installation Poland Osowka
Project Riese Hitler’s Mystery Installation Poland Osowka

The Osowka site features also a collection of smaller artifacts, collected from the ground and dating from the construction years, i.e. from late WWII.

Project Riese Hitler's Mystery Installation Poland Osowka
Project Riese Hitler’s Mystery Installation Poland Osowka
Project Riese Hitler's Mystery Installation Poland Osowka
Project Riese Hitler’s Mystery Installation Poland Osowka
Project Riese Hitler's Mystery Installation Poland Osowka
Project Riese Hitler’s Mystery Installation Poland Osowka
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Project Riese Hitler’s Mystery Installation Poland Osowka
Project Riese Hitler's Mystery Installation Poland Osowka
Project Riese Hitler’s Mystery Installation Poland Osowka

Life-size silhouettes of some WWII tanks are on display, to show how the size of these items was totally compatible with the size of the tunnels, in support of a potential use of the site for weapon manufacture.

Project Riese Hitler's Mystery Installation Poland Osowka
Project Riese Hitler’s Mystery Installation Poland Osowka
Project Riese Hitler's Mystery Installation Poland Osowka
Project Riese Hitler’s Mystery Installation Poland Osowka
Project Riese Hitler's Mystery Installation Poland Osowka
Project Riese Hitler’s Mystery Installation Poland Osowka

The outside part, which can be accessed freely, is the most mysterious. At the base of the trail leading uphill you can spot a strange concrete platform, with provision for – possibly – interred pipelines.

Project Riese Hitler's Mystery Installation Poland Osowka
Project Riese Hitler’s Mystery Installation Poland Osowka
Project Riese Hitler's Mystery Installation Poland Osowka
Project Riese Hitler’s Mystery Installation Poland Osowka
Project Riese Hitler's Mystery Installation Poland Osowka
Project Riese Hitler’s Mystery Installation Poland Osowka

Close to the top of the hill you can find a huge concrete platform, with an apparently chaotic ensemble of slots, pipes, handles, stairs and pools. This item has been deemed close in shape to the base of a service building for the valves and pipelines of a power-plant. Theories have flourished in support of the use of this item as a prototype control system for a nuclear power-plant.

Project Riese Hitler's Mystery Installation Poland Osowka
Project Riese Hitler’s Mystery Installation Poland Osowka
Project Riese Hitler's Mystery Installation Poland Osowka
Project Riese Hitler’s Mystery Installation Poland Osowka
Project Riese Hitler's Mystery Installation Poland Osowka
Project Riese Hitler’s Mystery Installation Poland Osowka
Project Riese Hitler's Mystery Installation Poland Osowka
Project Riese Hitler’s Mystery Installation Poland Osowka
Project Riese Hitler's Mystery Installation Poland Osowka
Project Riese Hitler’s Mystery Installation Poland Osowka
Project Riese Hitler's Mystery Installation Poland Osowka
Project Riese Hitler’s Mystery Installation Poland Osowka
Project Riese Hitler's Mystery Installation Poland Osowka
Project Riese Hitler’s Mystery Installation Poland Osowka
Project Riese Hitler's Mystery Installation Poland Osowka
Project Riese Hitler’s Mystery Installation Poland Osowka
Project Riese Hitler's Mystery Installation Poland Osowka
Project Riese Hitler’s Mystery Installation Poland Osowka
Project Riese Hitler's Mystery Installation Poland Osowka
Project Riese Hitler’s Mystery Installation Poland Osowka
Project Riese Hitler's Mystery Installation Poland Osowka
Project Riese Hitler’s Mystery Installation Poland Osowka
Project Riese Hitler's Mystery Installation Poland Osowka
Project Riese Hitler’s Mystery Installation Poland Osowka
Project Riese Hitler's Mystery Installation Poland Osowka
Project Riese Hitler’s Mystery Installation Poland Osowka
Project Riese Hitler's Mystery Installation Poland Osowka
Project Riese Hitler’s Mystery Installation Poland Osowka
Project Riese Hitler's Mystery Installation Poland Osowka
Project Riese Hitler’s Mystery Installation Poland Osowka
Project Riese Hitler's Mystery Installation Poland Osowka
Project Riese Hitler’s Mystery Installation Poland Osowka

The nuclear program of the Nazis, which indeed existed and is even documented to some extent, is shrouded in mystery for what concerns the actual findings obtained during the war. These dark spots are also due to the destruction of most of the hardware connected with the program everywhere in Germany, and with the inherent secret nature of the program itself. No evidence exists of the Osowka site in the public papers about the nuclear studies of the Reich, so the true purpose of this object is likely to remain an unsolved riddle.

Close by this platform, you can find an original concrete building, part of the same construction plan. It is pretty long, with large windows, and likely intended for troops or technical staff.

Project Riese Hitler's Mystery Installation Poland Osowka
Project Riese Hitler’s Mystery Installation Poland Osowka
Project Riese Hitler's Mystery Installation Poland Osowka
Project Riese Hitler’s Mystery Installation Poland Osowka
Project Riese Hitler's Mystery Installation Poland Osowka
Project Riese Hitler’s Mystery Installation Poland Osowka
Project Riese Hitler's Mystery Installation Poland Osowka
Project Riese Hitler’s Mystery Installation Poland Osowka
Project Riese Hitler's Mystery Installation Poland Osowka
Project Riese Hitler’s Mystery Installation Poland Osowka
Project Riese Hitler's Mystery Installation Poland Osowka
Project Riese Hitler’s Mystery Installation Poland Osowka
Project Riese Hitler's Mystery Installation Poland Osowka
Project Riese Hitler’s Mystery Installation Poland Osowka
Project Riese Hitler's Mystery Installation Poland Osowka
Project Riese Hitler’s Mystery Installation Poland Osowka
Project Riese Hitler's Mystery Installation Poland Osowka
Project Riese Hitler’s Mystery Installation Poland Osowka
Project Riese Hitler's Mystery Installation Poland Osowka
Project Riese Hitler’s Mystery Installation Poland Osowka

Rzeczka

Compared to Osowka, this site is more centered on the inside part. Again, there are two entrances, close by a creek on the side of a hill, providing access to a network of tunnels. Similar to Osowka, close by the entrance you can find guard-houses in concrete. These were built soon, possibly for keeping a watch on the forced workers.

Project Riese Hitler's Mystery Installation Poland Rzeczka
Project Riese Hitler’s Mystery Installation Poland Rzeczka
Project Riese Hitler's Mystery Installation Poland Rzeczka
Project Riese Hitler’s Mystery Installation Poland Rzeczka
Project Riese Hitler's Mystery Installation Poland Rzeczka
Project Riese Hitler’s Mystery Installation Poland Rzeczka
Project Riese Hitler's Mystery Installation Poland Rzeczka
Project Riese Hitler’s Mystery Installation Poland Rzeczka

The construction works in Rzeczka were less advanced than those in Osowka. Yet thanks to the lack of the concrete coat, you can appreciate the size of the tunnels, some of which are really tall.

Project Riese Hitler's Mystery Installation Poland Rzeczka
Project Riese Hitler’s Mystery Installation Poland Rzeczka
Project Riese Hitler's Mystery Installation Poland Rzeczka
Project Riese Hitler’s Mystery Installation Poland Rzeczka
Project Riese Hitler's Mystery Installation Poland Rzeczka
Project Riese Hitler’s Mystery Installation Poland Rzeczka
Project Riese Hitler's Mystery Installation Poland Rzeczka
Project Riese Hitler’s Mystery Installation Poland Rzeczka
Project Riese Hitler's Mystery Installation Poland Rzeczka
Project Riese Hitler’s Mystery Installation Poland Rzeczka
Project Riese Hitler's Mystery Installation Poland Rzeczka
Project Riese Hitler’s Mystery Installation Poland Rzeczka
Project Riese Hitler's Mystery Installation Poland Rzeczka
Project Riese Hitler’s Mystery Installation Poland Rzeczka
Project Riese Hitler's Mystery Installation Poland Rzeczka
Project Riese Hitler’s Mystery Installation Poland Rzeczka
Project Riese Hitler's Mystery Installation Poland Rzeczka
Project Riese Hitler’s Mystery Installation Poland Rzeczka
Project Riese Hitler's Mystery Installation Poland Rzeczka
Project Riese Hitler’s Mystery Installation Poland Rzeczka
Project Riese Hitler's Mystery Installation Poland Rzeczka
Project Riese Hitler’s Mystery Installation Poland Rzeczka
Project Riese Hitler's Mystery Installation Poland Rzeczka
Project Riese Hitler’s Mystery Installation Poland Rzeczka
Project Riese Hitler's Mystery Installation Poland Rzeczka
Project Riese Hitler’s Mystery Installation Poland Rzeczka
Project Riese Hitler's Mystery Installation Poland Rzeczka
Project Riese Hitler’s Mystery Installation Poland Rzeczka

There are small collections of artifacts found in the tunnels, and an original concrete room offers a description of all discovered sites of the ‘Riese’ project.

Project Riese Hitler's Mystery Installation Poland Rzeczka
Project Riese Hitler’s Mystery Installation Poland Rzeczka
Project Riese Hitler's Mystery Installation Poland Rzeczka
Project Riese Hitler’s Mystery Installation Poland Rzeczka
Project Riese Hitler's Mystery Installation Poland Rzeczka
Project Riese Hitler’s Mystery Installation Poland Rzeczka
Project Riese Hitler's Mystery Installation Poland Rzeczka
Project Riese Hitler’s Mystery Installation Poland Rzeczka

A 1:1 copy of a V-1 German flying bomb has been placed in one of the tunnels, to show the compatibility of the size of this weapon with the tunnel. Such weapons were reportedly assembled in underground facilities elsewhere in Germany.

Project Riese Hitler's Mystery Installation Poland Rzeczka
Project Riese Hitler’s Mystery Installation Poland Rzeczka
Project Riese Hitler's Mystery Installation Poland Rzeczka
Project Riese Hitler’s Mystery Installation Poland Rzeczka
Project Riese Hitler's Mystery Installation Poland Rzeczka
Project Riese Hitler’s Mystery Installation Poland Rzeczka

Visiting is again possible only with a guide. Some multi-media experiences with sounds, lights and voices are included in the tour, but these are not so impressive for those who don’t understand Polish.

Project Riese Hitler's Mystery Installation Poland Rzeczka
Project Riese Hitler’s Mystery Installation Poland Rzeczka
Project Riese Hitler's Mystery Installation Poland Rzeczka
Project Riese Hitler’s Mystery Installation Poland Rzeczka
Project Riese Hitler's Mystery Installation Poland Rzeczka
Project Riese Hitler’s Mystery Installation Poland Rzeczka
Project Riese Hitler's Mystery Installation Poland Rzeczka
Project Riese Hitler’s Mystery Installation Poland Rzeczka

On the outside, you can spot some relics from construction years, including trolleys, and concrete slabs watermarked with symbols of the local construction companies tasked with the practical realization of the site. There is also a copy of a V-2 rocket, operative in the last months of WWII but little effective in changing the fate of Nazi Germany.

Project Riese Hitler's Mystery Installation Poland Rzeczka
Project Riese Hitler’s Mystery Installation Poland Rzeczka
Project Riese Hitler's Mystery Installation Poland Rzeczka
Project Riese Hitler’s Mystery Installation Poland Rzeczka
Project Riese Hitler's Mystery Installation Poland Rzeczka
Project Riese Hitler’s Mystery Installation Poland Rzeczka
Project Riese Hitler's Mystery Installation Poland Rzeczka
Project Riese Hitler’s Mystery Installation Poland Rzeczka
Project Riese Hitler's Mystery Installation Poland Rzeczka
Project Riese Hitler’s Mystery Installation Poland Rzeczka
Project Riese Hitler's Mystery Installation Poland Rzeczka
Project Riese Hitler’s Mystery Installation Poland Rzeczka
Project Riese Hitler's Mystery Installation Poland Rzeczka
Project Riese Hitler’s Mystery Installation Poland Rzeczka

Getting there and moving around

As pointed out, the sites connected with project ‘Riese’ are many, but most of them are not visitable unless to specialists and with the help of a speleologist. On the other hand, the two sites of Osowka and Rzeczka are professionally operated as primary tourist attractions. The distance from these two sites is about 20 minutes by car, so you can surely arrange the tour of both sites on the same day, with much spare time in your daily schedule.

At Osowka you can find a large parking and a fully equipped visitor center, where you can book a guided tour, or join a departing one – the only way to get inside. Please note that the number of people admitted on each tour is relatively small, so I would suggest booking at least one day in advance through their website (partly also in English) to be sure to get a place at the time you like. They offer several different tours. The most complete include a visit to a part of the underground site which can only be accessed by boat. This is given only on some days by reservation, and only for groups. The standard tour of the inside is offered several times a day.

The guided may turn out really boring, cause you are provided an audio-guide in English with explanations lasting a couple of minutes for each of the circa ten stops, in face of the Polish-speaking guide talking about 5 minutes per site. You may try to spend your spare time taking good pictures, but even though groups are relatively small, they tend to obstruct the view inside, leaving poor chances for acceptable shots. Furthermore, lighting is not very good, so a tripod would be recommended, except you don’t have the time and chance for undisturbed long poses. Therefore, if you are interested in top-level pictures, you would better arrange a dedicated tour out of the normal touristic offer. Otherwise, you’d better go prepared to a difficult visit.

The outside part of the site is less frequented and more rewarding. It can be reached in about ten minutes following a pretty steep, unpaved trail in the trees. This part is unfenced and unguarded.

The Rzeczka site has only an inside part, which can be visited only on a guided tour. You can join one of the frequent tours they provide even without reservation. There is a small visitor center and plenty of parking space. Similar to Osowka, the guide will speak in Polish, and you are provided an audio-guide in English. The visit lasts less than in the case of Osowka, and the audio-guide explanations are more proportionate to the speech of the Polish-speaking guide, making for a more enjoyable visit. The multi-media experiences are of little relevance for non Polish-speaking people. Outside you can find also some panels with explanations on the history of the site in both Polish and English. Website with some info in English here.

The tunnels in Rzeczka are poorly lighted too, so photographing will be difficult unless with a tripod, but the conditions are not very favorable for operating with a tripod – many people around and short times between stops along the tour.

‘Weingut I’ Aviation Industry Complex, Germany

The giant complex known as ‘Weingut I’, the original codename attributed by the Nazi staff at the time of its design and construction, is the direct result of a plan to relocate all major industrial production lines of the Reich to protected areas, far from the line of the front and from any major urban center. In this particular case, the new factory was intended to shelter the production line of the new Junkers Jumo 004 jet engines for the ‘Schwalbe’ – also known as Messerschmitt Me-262, this was the first jet fighter in the world to be pushed into service, back in 1944.

The huge factory was designed based on a basic module made of a reinforced concrete arch, some 250 ft open, 100 ft tall and 10 to 15 ft thick. This item was to be built on site and partly buried under ground level. Twelve such modules were needed for the complete hangar, with a total intended length of the factory of around 1.200 ft. Of the planned twelve sections, seven were actually built between mid-1944 and the end of the war.

Despite the intended scope was that of hiding the factory to protect it from aerial reconnaissance, due to the size of the construction works the object was reportedly spotted by US aircraft, but not attacked. Actually, the special construction was tested against explosives by the US Army after the war, resulting in the collapse of all modules except one, which is still standing today besides the pretty sizable relics of the others.

The site is not actively guarded, but it is located in a regional nature preserve, so access is through a nice walk in the trees. Once next to the hangar you can find multiple access points.

Weingut I Hitler's Messerschmitt Hangar Germany
Weingut I Hitler’s Messerschmitt Hangar Germany
Weingut I Hitler's Messerschmitt Hangar Germany
Weingut I Hitler’s Messerschmitt Hangar Germany
Weingut I Hitler's Messerschmitt Hangar Germany
Weingut I Hitler’s Messerschmitt Hangar Germany
Weingut I Hitler's Messerschmitt Hangar Germany
Weingut I Hitler’s Messerschmitt Hangar Germany
Weingut I Hitler's Messerschmitt Hangar Germany
Weingut I Hitler’s Messerschmitt Hangar Germany

Close to the main arch, the only one still standing, it is possible to find an explanatory panel in German only. It commemorates also the forced laborers from the nearby concentration camps, who had to take part substantially in the construction works.

Weingut I Hitler's Messerschmitt Hangar Germany
Weingut I Hitler’s Messerschmitt Hangar Germany
Weingut I Hitler's Messerschmitt Hangar Germany
Weingut I Hitler’s Messerschmitt Hangar Germany
Weingut I Hitler's Messerschmitt Hangar Germany
Weingut I Hitler’s Messerschmitt Hangar Germany
Weingut I Hitler's Messerschmitt Hangar Germany
Weingut I Hitler’s Messerschmitt Hangar Germany
Weingut I Hitler's Messerschmitt Hangar Germany
Weingut I Hitler’s Messerschmitt Hangar Germany
Weingut I Hitler's Messerschmitt Hangar Germany
Weingut I Hitler’s Messerschmitt Hangar Germany

Walking under the arch is at your own risk, cause despite the bulky appearance of the structure, smaller pieces of concrete are hanging from from the ceiling. However, a walk inside will give you the most striking impression of the size of the hangar.

Weingut I Hitler's Messerschmitt Hangar Germany
Weingut I Hitler’s Messerschmitt Hangar Germany
Weingut I Hitler's Messerschmitt Hangar Germany
Weingut I Hitler’s Messerschmitt Hangar Germany
Weingut I Hitler's Messerschmitt Hangar Germany
Weingut I Hitler’s Messerschmitt Hangar Germany
Weingut I Hitler's Messerschmitt Hangar Germany
Weingut I Hitler’s Messerschmitt Hangar Germany
Weingut I Hitler's Messerschmitt Hangar Germany
Weingut I Hitler’s Messerschmitt Hangar Germany
Weingut I Hitler's Messerschmitt Hangar Germany
Weingut I Hitler’s Messerschmitt Hangar Germany
Weingut I Hitler's Messerschmitt Hangar Germany
Weingut I Hitler’s Messerschmitt Hangar Germany
Weingut I Hitler's Messerschmitt Hangar Germany
Weingut I Hitler’s Messerschmitt Hangar Germany
Weingut I Hitler's Messerschmitt Hangar Germany
Weingut I Hitler’s Messerschmitt Hangar Germany

Just nearby the remaining module to the west you can find a walkable, half interred bunker, likely with a technical function which is today hard to imagine.

Weingut I Hitler's Messerschmitt Hangar Germany
Weingut I Hitler’s Messerschmitt Hangar Germany
Weingut I Hitler's Messerschmitt Hangar Germany
Weingut I Hitler’s Messerschmitt Hangar Germany
Weingut I Hitler's Messerschmitt Hangar Germany
Weingut I Hitler’s Messerschmitt Hangar Germany
Weingut I Hitler's Messerschmitt Hangar Germany
Weingut I Hitler’s Messerschmitt Hangar Germany
Weingut I Hitler's Messerschmitt Hangar Germany
Weingut I Hitler’s Messerschmitt Hangar Germany
Weingut I Hitler's Messerschmitt Hangar Germany
Weingut I Hitler’s Messerschmitt Hangar Germany
Weingut I Hitler's Messerschmitt Hangar Germany
Weingut I Hitler’s Messerschmitt Hangar Germany

The module still standing today is the westernmost of the hangar, so walking east you will have the chance to step on the roof of the demolished modules. A number of thick iron rods can be spot at ground level.

Weingut I Hitler's Messerschmitt Hangar Germany
Weingut I Hitler’s Messerschmitt Hangar Germany
Weingut I Hitler's Messerschmitt Hangar Germany
Weingut I Hitler’s Messerschmitt Hangar Germany
Weingut I Hitler's Messerschmitt Hangar Germany
Weingut I Hitler’s Messerschmitt Hangar Germany
Weingut I Hitler's Messerschmitt Hangar Germany
Weingut I Hitler’s Messerschmitt Hangar Germany
Weingut I Hitler's Messerschmitt Hangar Germany
Weingut I Hitler’s Messerschmitt Hangar Germany
Weingut I Hitler's Messerschmitt Hangar Germany
Weingut I Hitler’s Messerschmitt Hangar Germany
Weingut I Hitler's Messerschmitt Hangar Germany
Weingut I Hitler’s Messerschmitt Hangar Germany
Weingut I Hitler's Messerschmitt Hangar Germany
Weingut I Hitler’s Messerschmitt Hangar Germany
Weingut I Hitler's Messerschmitt Hangar Germany
Weingut I Hitler’s Messerschmitt Hangar Germany

Walking along the former southern side of the hangar, you can spot a deep well, probably part of the construction strategy. It may have been used to take out the gravel from beneath the base of the arches to lower them to a rest position on more compact ground.

Weingut I Hitler's Messerschmitt Hangar Germany
Weingut I Hitler’s Messerschmitt Hangar Germany
Weingut I Hitler's Messerschmitt Hangar Germany
Weingut I Hitler’s Messerschmitt Hangar Germany
Weingut I Hitler's Messerschmitt Hangar Germany
Weingut I Hitler’s Messerschmitt Hangar Germany
Weingut I Hitler's Messerschmitt Hangar Germany
Weingut I Hitler’s Messerschmitt Hangar Germany
Weingut I Hitler's Messerschmitt Hangar Germany
Weingut I Hitler’s Messerschmitt Hangar Germany
Weingut I Hitler's Messerschmitt Hangar Germany
Weingut I Hitler’s Messerschmitt Hangar Germany
Weingut I Hitler's Messerschmitt Hangar Germany
Weingut I Hitler’s Messerschmitt Hangar Germany
Weingut I Hitler's Messerschmitt Hangar Germany
Weingut I Hitler’s Messerschmitt Hangar Germany
Weingut I Hitler's Messerschmitt Hangar Germany
Weingut I Hitler’s Messerschmitt Hangar Germany
Weingut I Hitler's Messerschmitt Hangar Germany
Weingut I Hitler’s Messerschmitt Hangar Germany

Along the same side you can find a way to walk below the fallen structure. You can also get a view of the edge of one of the modules.

Weingut I Hitler's Messerschmitt Hangar Germany
Weingut I Hitler’s Messerschmitt Hangar Germany
Weingut I Hitler's Messerschmitt Hangar Germany
Weingut I Hitler’s Messerschmitt Hangar Germany
Weingut I Hitler's Messerschmitt Hangar Germany
Weingut I Hitler’s Messerschmitt Hangar Germany
Weingut I Hitler's Messerschmitt Hangar Germany
Weingut I Hitler’s Messerschmitt Hangar Germany
Weingut I Hitler's Messerschmitt Hangar Germany
Weingut I Hitler’s Messerschmitt Hangar Germany
Weingut I Hitler's Messerschmitt Hangar Germany
Weingut I Hitler’s Messerschmitt Hangar Germany
Weingut I Hitler's Messerschmitt Hangar Germany
Weingut I Hitler’s Messerschmitt Hangar Germany
Weingut I Hitler's Messerschmitt Hangar Germany
Weingut I Hitler’s Messerschmitt Hangar Germany
Weingut I Hitler's Messerschmitt Hangar Germany
Weingut I Hitler’s Messerschmitt Hangar Germany

The eastern end of the complex is probably the most hazardous, cause you find an unprotected concrete cliff a good 10 ft high, constituted by the edge of a fallen module.

All in all, the place is a nice example of the undeniable structural design abilities of the German military, really interesting to visit both from a technical viewpoint and as a witness of the utopian visions of the Nazis, which unfortunately cost the lives of many.

Getting there and moving around

Reaching the trail-head is very easy by car. Leaving Mühldorf am Inn for Waldkraiburg along the road St2352, about 0.5 miles south of the crossing with St2550 you will find a sizable gravel factory to your right, preceded by an unpaved road taking west in the trees. You can park on the unpaved road on the northern side of the factory – probably a heir of the original factory built to feed the construction works of the hangar.

From there, you should take the unpaved trail into the trees, closed to vehicle traffic. It is another 0.5 miles to the site, on a flat and easy trail. A quick scan of the Google map will allow you to plan the trip. The place is not remote, cell phones work and you may use a virtual map to get oriented on site. Visiting might take about 2 hours for a very interested subject, including the trip from the parking and back, plus all time needed for pictures .