Military Collections in Sweden – Fourth Chapter

The geographical location of Sweden on the map of Europe naturally put it on the front line of the Cold War. With a very long shoreline taking most of the northern border of the narrow waters of the Baltic Sea, since jets made their appearance on the stage of military strategy, this Scandinavian kingdom found itself just minutes away from the Soviet Union (which at that time engulfed also today’s Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania), as well as from Communist-led Poland (see for instance this post) and German Democratic Republic (much covered on this website, see for example here).

Keeping up with a long-established tradition of neutrality, dating from soon after the age of the Napoleonic Wars in the early 19th century, during WWII and, afterwards, with the beginning of the Cold War, Sweden managed to stay out of any major explicit alliance with the Western Nations. During the Cold War, by continuing this non-aggressive policy, Sweden was a relevant contributor to the overall stability in the Northern European region.

Considering the early accession of Norway and Denmark to NATO to the West of this sector, in the momentous years following WWII when the USSR was still ruled by Stalin, who had just aggressively sealed the fate of the newly-conquered dominions in Eastern Europe, the independence of Finland, sharing a long, militarily untenable land border to the East with the Soviet Union, was particularly precarious (see Hanko, in this chapter). While leaning towards the West and being historically adverse to Russia, Sweden carefully avoided entering NATO, while still establishing commercial links notably with the UK and France for military supply. This attitude, and the increased geographical distance between NATO and the USSR, likely helped to dilute tension between the two opposing blocs in the area – which nonetheless peaked at some points in history before the demise of the USSR – thus mitigating the chance of an outbreak of hostilities, despite a massive military presence on both sides.

Concerning the military budget however, the neutral policy of Sweden did not by any means entail renouncing to self-defense. A solid economy with natural resources and a well-established tradition in mechanical industry and warfare supply, Sweden was perfectly conscious of the need to sustain its geopolitical role with a credible military power, such to deter as much as possible an aggressor, and ensure survival in case of an open war, even in the high-technology war scenario developing in the post-WWII years. Spared the devastation brought about by WWII, Sweden’s strategy planners and industry started in earnest developing especially ground and air forces.

The development of the air force and the air defense system was carried out in an integrated fashion, within the STRIL (Stridsledning och Luftbevakning, which might be translated into Combat control and Air surveillance) programs. Updated over the years (notably the first being the embryonic STRIL 40, followed by -50, -60 and -80, corresponding roughly to those decades in the 20th century), this program embodied the need for monitoring and self-defense. Considering in particular threats coming from the air, airspace monitoring and related information gathering/processing were carried out through a purpose-designed network of stations and command centers. Having ascertained the type of threat, the Air Force would deploy a proportional countermeasure, accounting for its plans for self-defense. This could be carrying out an intercept by scrambling aircraft – something which happened regularly for the decades of the Cold War, following violations by the Warsaw Pact forces – or, in case of an open aggression, for example deploying SAMs to down attacking aircraft.

The evolution of the STRIL program over the years reflects the development in the technology of the threats, and of the defense system itself. This passed from being based on optical detection and early jets, brought to an intercept point with purely verbal communication, to several types of radars linked directly to situation rooms, and purpose designed aircraft, which starting from the SAAB J35 Draken in the 1960s could receive data of an aggressor via datalink.

After the end of the Cold War and the collapse of the USSR, changes in the geopolitical scenario meant the partial scale-down of the Armed Forces, yet also the update of the still existing Sweden’s surveillance system based on more modern technology. Notably, Russian scouting operations and temporary violations of the air space of Sweden have continued over the years, thus giving a practical reason for maintaining a minimum level of alert.

As shown in previous chapters on this site (see here, here and here), retracing the fascinating history of the Armed Forces of Sweden through visits to dedicated museums, collections and surviving sites, especially the Cold War decades did leave behind some traces, which are still there to be seen.

In this chapter, two sites with many links to the history of STRIL can be found. One is a perfectly preserved installation, a node in the airspace monitoring network in Åstorp, close to Helsingborg. The other is the exceptional technical collection of the Missile Museum in Arboga, run by former staff of the Armed Forces of Sweden and passionate technicians, and preserving in a lively and rich exhibition countless items retracing the history of military missiles, as well as many aspects of air defense, especially in Sweden over the Cold War years.

Photographs have been taken from both sites during visits in the summer of 2025.

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Sights

STRIL Sector Operation Center (SOC), Åstorp

On the origin of the STRIL system – Brief historical note

The STRIL system, an acronym standing for Stridsledning och Luftbevakning, which might be translated into Combat control and Air surveillance, was first systematized in 1948, following the preliminary program STRIL 40, with its roots in the experience gained and in the technology of WWII. A key component of it was the availability of air surveillance stations, physically built as soft manned tower constructions, where staff of the Optical Air Guard, typically voluntary women, kept the airspace under watch (similar to the Royal Observation Corps in Britain, see this chapter). Before 1948, information from these visual intelligence gathering points traveled to a number of decision centers (Jaktcentral, precursors of the Sector Operation Centers) by wire, where additional staff of the Guard managed to create an overall picture of the situation and threats, and military officers could eventually authorize a reaction, typically scrambling aircraft for an intercept, in case of an airspace violation.

With the quick and dramatic evolution of military technology in the first years of the Cold War, the STRIL 50 system, started in 1948 and fully implemented by the mid-1950s, inherited, developed and structured the existing network. The territory of Sweden was divided in 21 sectors, which were covered by optical information gathering points, in the form of 1’300 Air Surveillance Stations (Luftbevakningsstation, or LS in short), i.e. towers like in the previous system, manned by the same Optical Air Guard, which however was now under the control of the Air Force. Arranged in a hub-and-spokes fashion, these stations reported to Sector Operation Centers (or SOC, Luftförsvars Gruppcentral, or LGC), of which 50 existed over the national territory. Finally, the command and control (C2) centers were 11 so-called Air Operation Centers (Luftförsvarscentral, or LFC), where the military staff could authorize and coordinate a counteraction against a threat.

Radar systems, both range-finding and altitude-finding, were a major technological addition of STRIL 50. Initially imported in the form of light or movable systems with moderate capacity, a constant investment in this technology brought to Sweden premium British (Marconi, Decca), Italian (Selenia) and later US (ITT-Gilfillan) technology. Radar information was a mainstay of the STRIL 60 program, largely integrating usual optical LS towers, thus strongly increasing the coverage and range of the pre-existing monitoring system. The level of automation increased steadily over the 1960s and 1970s, merging range, altitude, speed and direction information of a potential threat, and presenting them on a digital plotter to human controllers, directly in the LFC C2 centers. At the beginning of the 1960s, datalink parameter transmission allowed controllers in the LFC to provide flight data of an aggressor to the cockpit of the J35 Draken, avoiding easily detectable verbal communication, for an increased level of effectiveness.

In this constantly evolving technological scenario, the implementation of the OPUS system allowed to still profit from the pre-existing LS and local LGC centers. Within that system, the human operators where supplied with a threat labeling system, allowing them to digitally communicate data of whatever optically detected air traffic, including position and direction. This was automatically collected and filtered in purpose-implemented electronics within the LGC, visualized on a local plot, and forwarded after filtering to the LFC, thus integrating the automatically-processed radar information available to the C2 centers. Perceived also as a safety layer in case of an attack to the inherently vulnerable radar stations, the Optical Air Guard stayed until after the end of the USSR, finally disbanding in 1994.

A visit of the site

What you see in Åstorp is an original, perfectly preserved Sector Operation Center, i.e. an LGC, which stands as an ideal specimen to understand the structure and technology of this element in the defense network implemented through STRIL.

The Center is in a bunker built underground in the rock (as typical to the early Cold War era, see this chapter), and is accessible via a steep and narrow flight of stairs from an unassuming, deceptive wooden hut. Once to the bottom, the structure is all at the same floor level.

A technical room is accessible besides the entrance, with a power generator and electric cabinets for managing power supply in the bunker. The major components in the system, still working, are made by Hägglunds, a major mechanical brand in Sweden (also making the highly successful Bandvagn 206 tracked trailer vehicle, still in use today).

Then you get access to the main hall of the bunker, with a somewhat informal appearance, dominated by armchairs and low tables, and with a kitchenette in a corner. Everything is original and clearly dating from the Cold War era in terms of style.

From this gathering and relaxation point in the bunker, it is possible to reach immediately four relevant functional rooms. The first, and likely the most distinctive, is the situation room, which is visible also from the hall through a large transparent glass window.

To the far end from the entrance is an elevated console desk, with signal receivers, telephones and keyboards.

The room is basically built around a tactical table, with a map of the area pertaining to the SOC, where the information gathered by the LS reporting to this station could be represented graphically. The table you see is possibly the only reconstructed part of the bunker. Over the years, with the technological developments described above taking place (especially in STRIL 60), this table was updated with some degree of automation in the representation of information. The original piece in place when the bunker was decommissioned was taken away at some point, and a careful reconstruction of an analog table has been employed to give a lively idea of the appearance of the situation room in a time when information was managed manually. Furthermore, a regional map and a situation board are visible close to the entrance.

The location was manned by staff of the Optical Air Guard, traditionally women since the WWII era. These were regimented non-military voluntary staff, whereas the commanding officer of the center was from the military. He usually stayed in a second room reachable from the bunker hall, and overseeing the situation room through a smaller glass window.

In that room, his desk has been preserved in a mint condition, with a typewriter, and even military kits with pens and pencils. Close by is a more recent computer console, with a cryptography device.

A very interesting component of the visit is a number of original manuals and publications scattered around the bunker. Among them are aircraft recognition manuals, reporting the silhouette of known aircraft from all nations, and the corresponding relevant performance. These original manuals offer an interesting cutaway of the air force arsenals on both sides of the Iron Curtain, and their evolution over the years.

Another core technical room reachable from the hall is dedicated to signal gathering and management. The appearance here is mostly from the higher-technology phases of STRIL 60 and the OPUS system. Among the most distinctive features are the cabinets with the electronic boards from the era, which allowed for the management of the data coming from the peripheral station of the network, including for filtering, visualization on the situation table, and forwarding to the LFC.

The original devices once employed by staff on top of the LS towers are on display here – two portable consoles, one for vocal communication, and another special console for allowing the controller to specify data of the observation target, including its course. The original battery pack is still in place, with labeling from the time.

Interestingly, some of the older optical gear is actually from Hitler’s Germany, marked with the Eagle of the Third Reich.

Vocal communication lines allowed inbound traffic, as well as broadcasting capability, which could be directed also to the local population in case of an incoming attack, also employing recorded messages.

The fourth technical room accessible from the hall is was for air pumping and filtering. Despite not intended for survival of a numerous staff over a long time span, the bunker had an air filtering capability, as typical from the WWII and early Cold War era, when the bunker was built. Today, this system helps in keeping the place ventilated and fighting humidity. Manual pumps from the time are in place, as well as original spare parts, from governmental supply.

Finally, a small sleeping room, reportedly seldom employed for the task, can be found with original berths.

Getting there and visiting

The site is not open to the public, and credit for allowing me and a friend of mine on this exceptional visit goes to the current manager of the place, Mr. Anders Sundberg, and to Mr. Erik Mårtensson, retired officer of the Armed Forces of Sweden, who arranged this visit. It is possible to visit the place by prior appointment only. Contact sightraider.com to establish contact with Mr. Sundberg, who speaks English and has a detailed knowledge of this site as well as of the entire defense system of Sweden since its origin. A visit is therefore warmly recommended for a first-hand experience of an original site within the defense network, and for learning about it from its knowledgeable manager.

Missile Museum, Arboga

The Arboga Robotmuseum, mostly dedicated to missiles, engines and air defense systems of Sweden, can be found in the town of Arboga, roughly 90 miles west of Stockholm.

The town has a long tradition in warfare development, an heritage which is still lively represented by the presence of the Armed Forces and of companies operating in the field of intelligence and warfare systems, including a branch of SAAB. Their quarters are to the south of the town, where an old airbase can be found, with a one-of-a-kind bunker in the side of a local hill, dating from the 1940s. Today employed as a warehouse and barely visible from the northern fence of the airport, this bunker-hangar was designed for missile-related study and development, witnessing a significant commitment of the Swedish government towards that field of research, and towards the town Arboga as a strategic location, already back in a time when rocketry was in its infancy.

The museum is geographically close to the city center. Besides being supported by the Government within the official network of museums dedicated to the heritage of the Armed Forces in Sweden, it is run by a dedicated group of enthusiasts, mostly former military staff or knowledgeable technicians, which give an especially lively atmosphere to the place.

The display starts with a collection of items retracing the history of rocketry in Sweden. Curiously enough, a rare original V-1 from Hitler’s Germany dominates the display by the entrance! Similar to other locations in northern Poland and the Danish island of Bornholm (see here), territories geographically north of the Third Reich’s experimental laboratory of Peenemunde (see this chapter), and within range of the V-1 and V-2 early self-piloted flying weapons, were crash-landing places for experimental flights gone out of control. Southern Sweden was no exception. Moreover, the one you can see in Arboga is the only well-preserved V-1 landed in Sweden. The good state of conservation is evident looking at the fuselage and engine casing.

Even the onboard systems are almost perfectly in shape, including the knob to set the target distance covered by the flying bomb (measured approximately, by recording the rotations of the small ram propeller to the front). Also the actuators for the movable tail surfaces can be seen. They were fed from two tanks of compressed air, one of them, sectioned, revealing the fabric-inspired construction.

Most interestingly, the pulse-jet core, with the injection pipes and the radially oriented valve system, is also displayed.

For many nations including Sweden, the analysis of the – for the time – very advanced aeronautical projects of the Third Reich constituted a valuable starting point for their own development programs in the field. The topic is relevant to the museum in Arboga, where many early designs of autonomous flying platforms developed in Sweden are represented. Notably, an early project from the Navy, the RB310 on display, from soon after WWII, was pushed by the the same motor type as the German V-1 (note the distinctive side inlets).

Yet until the late 1950s the pulse-jet concept lived on with the RB315 ‘Agaton’, where the air breathing component of a developed version of a pulse-jet (the SM11, not dissimilar at a glance from the original German design) can be seen emerging on the fuselage.

Still air-breathing yet based on small turbojets, two interesting designs from the same era are on display. One is the compact long-range anti-shipping RB15F, developed for the SAAB AJ37 Viggen, and employed as well with the JAS39 Gripen. The other is the target drone developed by Beechcraft in the US as MQM-107, and in service in Sweden as the RB06. Its own small French-made TRI 60 turbojet can be seen below the the aircraft.

Perhaps the most massive among those on display is the ship-mounted version of the RB08A. This design was operationally employed within the Navy (see here), and later for coastal defense employing land-based batteries. It was pushed by a small turbojet by the French company Turbomeca. This heavy radar-homing anti-shipping missile is displayed with some of its 1960s-fashion internal systems dismounted.

A full array of missiles employed by Sweden’s Armed Forces yet originally designed in NATO Countries is on display, along with a number of prototypes and models originally from Sweden.

A less-known chapter well covered here is that of special under-wing pods. For example, the BOY401 flare dispenser for the Gripen reveals a massive sized and non-trivial construction, when checked from a close distance. Even more complex is the BOX3 pod, originally designed in the 1960s for the SAAB J32 Lansen as a decoy dispenser for detection jamming, with provision for flare and even a nose-mounted radar.

Active jammers are represented for example by the Apparat 27 and the U22 capsule, on display side by side, ahead of the fuselage piece and engine from a SAAB J37 Viggen.

A second area of the museum is dedicated to diverse smaller-scale ground-launcher missiles, as well as drones. For example, the very successful RB53 Bantam and RB56 ground-launched anti-tank missiles are on display, with the corresponding aiming device and computer. The bigger RBS17, the Swedish version of the AGM-114 Hellfire, has been placed side by side with others, allowing for a direct size comparison. It is in service with the coastal defense artillery.

An interesting cutaway is offered for the case of the RBS90 surface-to-air missile, revealing the complexity within the casing of this type of weapon. Nearby are two unmanned flying platforms employed by Sweden’s Armed Forces, the French-imported UAV01 and the lighter Swedish design of the UAV02 with its own control console. Sweden employed a SAM systems for protection of strategic sites, like airbases. Notably, the massive British-design Bloodhound missile was employed (one can be seen outside the museum). A detailed scale reproduction of a a SAM battery cand be found here as well.

Cameras, flash lights, pods employed for PHOTINT/SIGINT, and a radar head from the nose cone of a J37 Viggen attack aircraft are on display as well.

Notably, some of the gentlemen behind this collection were deeply involved in the airspace monitoring and defense activities of Sweden (see also the previous site on this page) during their military careers. Their experience with the STRIL initiatives is a fundamental knowledge base in this respect, and a chat with them is warmly suggested for everybody with an interest in this chapter of warfare history. Some of the radar consoles to be found in the top-level nodes of the air defense network (LFC), where all data from peripheral nodes were assembled to represent the detailed situation of the air space, are on display in the collection. They allow the visitor to retrace the technical evolution of the radar technology for air defence.

Notably, since the arrival of the SAAB J35 Draken, it was possible to send the data of an intruder to the panel of the aircraft via datalink from the console of the radar system (in particular the Decca PS-08 radar, of which four covered the exposed territory of Sweden, was an enabler in getting sufficiently accurate data). The console is on display together with the panel of the Draken. A supersonic single-pilot aircraft with exceptional performance, that aircraft was not easy to pilot with a fully analog cockpit. The addition of information on another aircraft, theoretically very effective for managing an intercept, in an operative scenario required a very high skill and preparation by the pilot, to face a very high workload.

The general amelioration of electronics over the years allowed to develop these systems, in conjunction with the appearance on the scene of the SAAB J37 Viggen and later the JAS39 Gripen, greatly reducing the workload of the pilot by displaying target information on scopes or maps, making them more promptly usable.

A mainstay of the defense system, radar consoles allowed controllers to keep the entire airspace of Sweden under watch. During the Cold War, the range of these systems allowed to scan well south of Berlin and within the USSR. However, the vantage geographical position of Sweden on the boundary of the Eastern Bloc put this Nation at risk of intrusion. For safety, in the mutual mistrust among opponents typical to the Cold War, camera recorders were employed since the 1960s to keep trace of radar blips, also to the aim of proofing intrusions or violations. The special camera arrangement on top of a radar scope is on display as well.

These recordings are now a valuable and interesting trace from the past, witnessing momentous events like the withdrawal of Soviet forces following the 1968 Soviet invasion of Czechoslovakia and the (sad) conclusion of the crisis, large exercises of the Warsaw Pact forces over the Baltic, or little-known, evident intrusions of Soviet aircraft over Swedish territory, and even the overflight by a USAF Lockheed SR-71, at its typical, extremely speed. This incredible material, visible in the museum in the form of a cyclically-running documentary, can be purchased as well after visiting.

A big component of the museum is dedicated to a large and neat collection of aircraft engines. The aircraft design program of Sweden, based on the SAAB designs from the late 1940s until the end of the Cold War, was supported by jet engines modified mostly by Volvo, starting from British or American designs.

The presentation in the museum allows to learn much about the specific features of many of these aircraft engines, by displaying cutouts, technical drawings, as  well as components of the ancillary systems and utilities (pumps, generators, etc.). Interestingly, a poster-size reproduction of an old picture portrays the local bunker hangar in Arboga (see above).

An interesting display of cockpit panels from Swedish aircraft allows for an analysis of the evolution of their design. An old flight simulator for training purposes, the ubiquitous US-designed Link Trainer, was apparently employed also in Sweden.

Finally, another exceptional feature of this museum is the availability of two simulators of the SAAB Draken and Viggen! These have been prepared making use of sections of their respective fuselages, notably including the cockpit. They make for an unmissable experience for everybody, especially if you already have some piloting experience – in that case, you may have chance to fly one of these two iconic attack aircraft from the Cold War with incredible realism, for example on an intercept mission versus a Soviet cargo, guided by the expert words of an authentic radar controller!

Getting there and visiting

This one-of-a-kind museum on a very interesting and special topic makes for a must-see destination for everybody with an interest in the Cold War. The exact address of the museum is Glasbruksgatan 1, 73231 Arboga. The location has a large parking ahead of the entrance. The premises taken by the collection, on the ground floor of an old industrial building, are compact and easy to tour. Yet the collection is very rich, and a visit interacting with the group of friendly volunteers (some of them speaking English fluently) running the site might easily take  2 hours or more for an interested subject.

Additionally, an experience on the flight simulator is definitely worth a visit on its own. This can be arranged by prior email or call, and combined with the visit. The professional website, with full information on the museum and exhibits in multiple languages, can be found here.

My own exceptional experience on this site together with a friend of mine, which included memorable flights in both Draken and Gripen simulators, was kindly sponsored and arranged jointly by the Volunteers of the Arboga Robotomuseum, in particular Mr. Antero Timofejeff, and by Mr. Erik Mårtensson, both former officers of Sweden’s Armed Forces. To these gentlemen and to the Volunteers go my personal thanks and congratulations!

The Wollenberg Bunker – Linking East Germany and the USSR

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The events taking place on the geopolitical stage during the last decade of the Cold War – the 1980s – gave little indication of the imminent collapse of the Soviet-led Eastern Bloc (1989-1991). Correspondingly, looking at the amount of technology developed and deployed in the military field during the late, hi-tech stage of the Cold War, it is easy to notice that opponents on both sides of the Iron Curtain dedicated a significant (and even increasing) budget in preparation for a possible total confrontation. Reading papers and specialized books from the time, the outbreak of an open conflict, such to put a violent and abrupt end to years of opposition between the two opposing systems by recurring to nuclear warfare over the territories of Western Europe (most of them belonging to the NATO alliance, and all being substantially more militarized than today), was not deemed just likely, but more as a matter of time.

The БАРС system – The tropospheric network of the Warsaw Pact

In that era of extreme tension, it is not surprising that one of the most sophisticated and expensive assets developed and deployed jointly by all Nations in the Warsaw Pact, of course led by the USSR, came alive. History would cut its life short though, and as soon as the Warsaw Pact disintegrated, as a result of the opt-out from communist dictatorship of all Countries in Eastern Europe, this asset was decommissioned. This system was the tropospheric communication system ‘БАРС’, a Russian word reading ‘BARS’ and meaning ‘snow leopard’. The name stands as an acronym for four words in Russian, which translate into something like ‘Sheltered autonomous radio communication system’.

The idea put forward by the Soviet top-ranking military staff in the early 1980s (prior to the onset of Gorbachev administration) was that of a system capable of transmitting complex orders (not just simple signals, like for opening a bunker door or silo, but articulated messages) in a safe encrypted way, at a long distance and minimizing the chance of a complete breakdown even in case of an enemy nuclear attack. Despite being not new, the concept of a resilient and reliable system, such to allow exchanging significant amount of data without relying on cables, had been tested in earlier stages of the Cold War only for short-radius operations. Mobile transmitters/receivers, loaded on purpose-designed trucks, allowed for a reduction of the risk of a direct hit from an attacker, and for a quick redeployment in case of need. However, for the amount of data and range required for the coordination of a war scenario, involving many different Countries, and geographically encompassing an entire continent, a different system was required, capable of transmitting more massive data flows on longer distances, with a reduced risk of a sudden or complete interruption.

The БАРС system was based on a certain number of stations, scattered over the territory of the Countries of the Warsaw Pact. Each node was built as a bunkerized, manned military installation, featuring high-power, high-frequency fixed antennas emerging from the ground, and an underground shelter protecting all the technical gear required for manipulating the data to be sent or received, interfacing with the other existing local (i.e. national) networks for military and executive governmental communication, and of course managing the tremendous amount of energy required to pump a long-reaching signal into the ether.

Laying on the front line with the West, hosting a Soviet contingent of some hundred thousands troops (see here and links therein), aircraft (see here), missiles (see here) and nuclear warheads (see here), and being a key-ally of the USSR in case of the outbreak of an open war (at least until late 1989), the German Democratic Republic (or GDR, or DDR in German) was clearly included in the БАРС network from the initial drafting phase. Similarly, Poland, Czechoslovakia, Hungary and Bulgaria, and of course the Soviet Union (which included Belarus and the Baltics, and stretched west to Kaliningrad), all had БАРС stations on their territory. Stations were located at a range of a few hundred miles from one another, thus within the range required for each of them to communicate with one or more of the other nodes. Data (e.g. orders, reports or authorizations) input locally could be relayed along the network through intermediate nodes, down to the intended destination node. There were 26 nodes in total, of which four were in the USSR.

The Wollenberg site – Bunker 301 ‘Tushurka’

The GDR in particular had three stations built, all along the border with Poland, and located east of Berlin – namely Station 301 in Wollenberg, at the same latitude of Berlin, Station 302 in Langsdorf, towards the Baltic coast, and Station 303 in Röhrsdorf (near Königsbruck), not far from Dresden in the southeast of the GDR territory. The first among them, the Wollenberg site (codenamed ‘Tushurka’) could communicate with the other two national stations, as well as with Station 207 in Poland, from where data would be transmitted further down the network, towards the USSR.

The site was built by the GDR state, with technical hardware coming from several Countries within the Warsaw Pact, and most of the military hi-tech components manufactured in the USSR. The actual site (similar to its sister sites) was built in the frame of a highly secretive operation. The staff comprised about 60-70 men, the majority of which were military, where about 15% were civil technicians. Maximum security clearance was required, due to the top-secret nature of the installation and of the overall БАРС system. The bunkerized part of the installation was only a component of the larger premises of the base, camouflaged within the trees on the side of low-rising hill.

As pointed out, the immense spending required for setting up this multi-national hi-tech military communication system, which was extensively tested and completely commissioned (as a network) by 1987, did not save it from a quick demise and disappearance. In particular, Station 301 went definitively offline as early as August 1990.

However, the fate of the Wollenberg site was not so sad as that of many former Soviet or NVA (i.e. the East German Army) installations in the GDR. The high-power antennas were torn down, but except from that, little material damage was inflicted to the buildings and bunker on site. The place was basically shut-off and left dormant, until when a society of technically very competent local enthusiasts started a plan to preserve and open it to visitors, as a memorial specimen of the technology of the Cold War years.

A visit to the Wollenberg bunker site reveals a tremendous deal of interesting details, very uncommon to find elsewhere in the panorama of Cold War relics around Europe. Thanks to a careful preservation and restoration work, the bunker has most of its original systems still plugged to the grid and lit-up – some of them are reportedly still working! Even though the communication networks have been severed, the experience in the bunker is really evoking, and the atmosphere – with all the lit-up cabinets, lights, CCTV cameras, 1980-style screens, etc. – closely resembles that of the bygone era when БАРС was operative!

This report and photographs were taken during a private visit to the bunker, carried out in the Summer of 2023.

Sights

A visit to the the installation in Wollenberg starts from the original high-security access gate. As you may quickly notice when passing through it and getting a first view of the site, the state of preservation is exceptional. Except for the lack of military staff around, everything looks mostly like in the years of operation.

A group of soft-construction service buildings and a reinforced multi-entry garage constitute the first – and visible – nucleus of the installation. All buildings are painted in a camo coat.

A former building for the on-site staff has been turned into a permanent exhibition, with memorabilia items from the Cold War years, when the Nationale Volksarmee (or NVA, the Armed forces of the GDR) cooperated with the Soviet Red Army and the national Armed forces of other Countries in the Warsaw Pact.

A meeting room, now employed also for small gatherings, is especially rich of interesting and diverse items, including emblems, books, memorial plates and pennants, as well as TV screens, hi-fi systems and and beamers from the era.

Another room has been set-up as a control center for the base, with an original console and regional maps.

Compared to military bases (for aircraft or tanks), the Wollenberg installation is rather compact, with a main road giving access to most of the (not many) buildings on site, as well as the bunker. Actually, the bunkerized part was built under a low-rising hill, with the antennas originally standing on top of it. Access to the bunker is possible either by climbing uphill on the main road, or through a suggestive original pedestrian tunnel. The latter starts from within the service building itself, and – somewhat unexpectedly, for an underground installation – it climbs uphill, while keeping beneath the surface of the hill side slope. The lower end is guarded by an original CCTV camera.

At the top end of the tunnel you can find the actual access to the bunker. The design and reinforcement level conferred grade ‘D’ protection according to the military standard in use at the time, with grade ‘A’ being the strongest. Access is through an airlock, constituted by two tight doors at the opposite ends of a small vestibule built in concrete. This design allowed protection from the blast of a nuclear device.

Notably, the locking mechanism of the tight doors is Soviet military standard, which can be found in high-value installations like nuclear depots elsewhere in the Eastern Bloc (see for instance here in Poland, and here in Czechoslovakia).

To the visitor with some experience of Cold War installations, it will be apparent from the very start of the tour that the state of conservation of the bunker, including the systems in it, is exceptional, similar to the rest of the Wollenberg site. The original warning lights and the CC-TV camera for identifying people at the entrance are still in place.

Next to the entrance, a control room with technical gear for checking-in can be found – including original dosimeters for radiation and chemicals, mostly Soviet-made. Looking inside these devices is possible, and reveals a great deal of sophistication in the design and realization of the military-grade material from the time.

Showers and sinks for washing, as well as canister for disposing of contaminated clothes, are located in the same area.

Upon getting access to the sealed area of the bunker and passing by the decontamination facility, you find yourself on the top floor of the underground bunker. The high-technology gear required for the transmission/reception of data on the БАРС network, as well as the interface with other national communication systems, required for receiving data, issuing orders, etc. over the territory of the GDR, were located on this floor.

Two symmetrically placed rooms host two twin transmission centers for the БАРС system. A single manned console can be found in each of them, surrounded by electronic cabinets and switches. At a closer look, all the material herein is Soviet made, and labeled in Russian only.

On the wall ahead of the console station is a set of cables, communicating with the antenna and allowing to set the orientation and monitoring its status.

The actual signals transmitted to the antenna, or received from it, traveled along special hollow ducts, with an almost rectangular section. Bundles of these ducts can be found in the ‘Sender’ (which means ‘transmitter’ in English) room, immediately next to the room where the manned console is.

The modulation and demodulation of the signals going out and coming in respectively through the antenna on top of the bunker required some special pieces of electronics, which included the Soviet-designed KY-374 klystron (codenamed ‘Viola’), a component to be found in the cabinets of the ‘Sender’ room.

Following the hollow ducts, it is possible to find where they finally exit the usually manned part of the bunker, bending into receptacles and leading outside. Piping related to other systems, including air conditioning, can be seen as well crossing or running in the same narrow technical corridors.

Beside the consoles monitoring the antenna and the data flowing through it, a kind of operative room for communication can be found, where consoles allowing to receive and forward data and communication to/from all systems are on display. This largely original room features consoles of different levels of technology.

Original explanatory schemes showing the basic features of the БАРС system are on display in that area – in Russian!

An adjoining room features the cabinets required for making all these system work. The cabinets are really many, with a significant share of material manufactured in the USSR. The sight of all these cabinets together is really impressive, and tangibly provides the feeling of a high technology, sophisticated and expensive design. It compares well, but in a largely up-scaled fashion, to the electronics to be found in some special communication bunkers on the western side of the Iron Curtain (see here).

Interspersed with the original arrangement of the cabinets and consoles are some displays of original material. These include specimens of different types of cables for signal transmission – some of them hollow and pressurized, others featuring impressive bundles of thinner wires – the KY-374 klystron, and other once top-secret core components of the БАРС transmission system. Also on display is one of the few remaining parts of the original system of antennas, once on top of the bunker. The antennas were the only part to be physically torn down when the system was decommissioned, upon the demise of the Warsaw Pact and the end of the Cold War.

The bunker was manned by military and technical staff 24/7. Furthermore, as typical for bunkers from the Cold War era, provision was made at a design level to allow the staff to live isolated within the bunker for an extended period of time, in view of the eventuality to face a nuclear fallout scenario.

On the same floor as the technical rooms, the commander of the station had his own private room. This is still adorned with typical Soviet iconography, as well as everyday material from the age when the bunker was operative.

A small canteen, with a kitchen and a modest living room, can be found at the same level. An original storage room has been employed to gather examples of everyday products, like soap, skin care cream, etc., as well as canned food, cocoa, and beverages of all sorts.

This represents a very rich catalog of now largely defunct and forgotten labels, from the age and regions of the Eastern Bloc (and especially from within the GDR). Also on display are bottles of spirits, likely still very good!

The visit proceeds then to the lower floor, which can be reached through a flight of metal stairs.

The lower floor host the plants required for the regular operation of the entire bunker, such to guarantee operational ability even in case of an enemy attack carried out with nuclear, chemical or biological warfare. The air filtering and conditioning system is very modern. Beside typical filtering drums for particles, to be found also in other bunkers (see for instance Podborsko here), you can see a bulky filtering and climate conditioning system, neatly arranged within two parallel square-shaped ducts. Filtering against chemicals as well as biologic agents was carried out employing special active filters.

Sensors for the level of contamination of the bunker air can be found in different rooms. Much material here is standard Soviet-made.

Systems for water pumping and compressed air can be found as well, including compressors, pumps and reservoirs. Looking at the always interesting factory labels in this area, it is easy to find export products of Bulgaria, Romania and other communist dictatorships of the era. Of course, much hardware is also manufactured in the GDR.

Electricity was supplied from the outside grid, yet capability for self-sustaining in case of a grid loss (for instance in case of war) was implemented as well. Three big German-made Diesel generators have been put in place, and are still in an apparently good condition.

Another example of the high technological standard reached in the late Cold War era is represented by the control room for the plants within the bunker. A manned control station, with a console and a direct view of lit-up cabinets, reporting the status of the various systems running in the bunker, compares well with control rooms of large industrial plants in operation today.

Carefully kept in its original status, with many of the electric links and cabinets still working, the sight of this room is especially evoking.

Also on the lower floor are the sleeping rooms for off-duty staff. Typically, this was not employed except for drills, when the bunker could be sealed to simulate operations in case of the outbreak of hostilities.

Back to the upper floor, it is possible to exit the bunker via a stairway and through a side gate. You will find yourself on top of the low-rise hill where the bunker has been dug. Here the concrete base of the crane where the БАРС antenna used to sit are still visible. Notably, these antennas were much smaller than the tropospheric antennas employed for the TROPOSCATTER system of NATO. This was the result of a different bandwidth employed for transmissions. Therefore, even in the days of operation, the antennas on top of the bunker were not as sizable as those of TROPOSCATTER installations (which were enormous in size).

Looking closely, in the top area of the installation, the duct for supplying the Diesel oil tank of the bunker can be found, similar to sensors for radiation and other atmospheric parameters (similar to what can be found also in other nuclear-proof bases, for instance here). These allowed to monitor the conditions of the outside air, detect an attack and trigger or manage the sealing of the bunker in case of need, by locking all the tight doors.

This access to the bunker is fenced by the original electrified fence, severing this area from the rest of the installation through a further layer of security.

All in all, a visit to the Wollenberg bunker offers an incredible insight in a fascinating and crucial field of warfare – data and communication exchange – as well as a lively and evocative display of a late Cold War hi-tech installation from the Soviet side of the Iron Curtain!

Getting there & Visiting

The German name of the Wollenberg bunker is ‘Militärhistorisches Sonderobjekt 301 Wollenberg’. It can be reached very easily with a car. It can be found in the open countryside along the regional road 158, driving about 35 miles (about 1 hour) northeast from downtown Berlin towards Poland. The exact location is between the small village of Höhenland (~4 miles) and the more sizable Bad Freienwalde (~6 miles). There is a large parking area immediately next to the road, giving direct pedestrian access to the premises of the former military installation. Despite being placed very conveniently, the site is rather elusive when passing by, since it is hidden in the trees and not directly visible from the road. The address corresponding to the place in Google Maps is Sternkrug 4, 16259 Höhenland. The inconspicuous village of Wollenberg, giving the name to the installation, is just nearby, but it is not crossed by the regional road, and it should not be employed for pointing this destination with a nav.

The Wollenberg bunker is a listed historical installation. It is perfectly maintained, privately managed, and it can be regularly accessed with guided tours. These are offered typically one day per week in the summer, or by prior arrangement. Possibly the best option for getting the most out of your visit is getting in contact with the group of very knowledgeable enthusiasts running the place. The official website is here (do not be discouraged by the ‘static’ appearance of the website, they are very active, and they shall typically answer your inquire).

My visit was planned by initiative of Dr. Reiner Helling (see also here), and we visited in a group of three, including the guide (Dr. Michael Schoeneck, a former engineer, with a profound knowledge of any technical aspects related to this installation), which happened to be a perfect option for touring also the narrowest receptacles of the bunker. Visiting in groups too big may be not advisable, since the rooms and corridors are rather narrow, and the place may turn overcrowded for interacting with the guide and for taking good pictures. I think the visit – including the technical content – may be tailored to the needs of the audience. For technical-minded subjects, historians and former military, a visit may take about 2-3 hours (the latter was my experience). In my case, the guide could understand but not speak fluent English, yet Dr. Helling could translate with ease all the explanations. Of course, if you have at least a basic knowledge of German and of the technical material you are looking at, this may simplify your visit, which is in any case highly advisable for those interested in military technology and the Cold War.

Heading to Berlin or the former GDR? Looking for traces of the Cold War open for a visit?

A Travel Guide to COLD WAR SITES in EAST GERMANY

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Aircraft Collections in Norway

The ‘Norwegian chapter’ in the book of aviation history is a peculiar and interesting one. Similarly to virtually every Country in the western world, in the early age of aviation small manufacturing companies appeared also in Norway. Despite meeting with little success in the long run, they contributed in creating momentum around those ‘novel flying machines’. Norway, with a sinuous coastline stretching for some thousands miles from the latitude of England up north to where the European continent ends, and with a land largely covered in snow for many months per year, has been an ideal place for the development of a local air network since the early days of aviation. This created an alternative link between smaller communities and industry centers. As a matter of fact, similarly to Greece, Norway is among the top employers of smaller aircraft for commercial routes in Europe still today.

To the same early era belong the now almost mythological arctic expeditions, carried out also by air – by plane or airship – and almost invariably departing from Norway. The well-known Norwegian explorer Roald Amundsen was an advocate of air explorations, and his primary contributions to geographical explorations have constituted in some cases milestones in aviation history.

Despite a significant down-scaling of its Armed Forces in the post-Cold War scenario causing a strong reduction of the military presence in the Country, Norway has been in the focus of massive military operations since the 1930s.

In particular, both its geographical position and natural resources met the appetite of the Third Reich, which successfully invaded Norway in a blitzkrieg campaign in late spring 1940. Through an action based strongly on airlift capacity, German cargo planes relocated personnel and material very effectively to Norway. The crown and government were forced into exile in Britain, and with it also the military chain of command. Actually, the air force academy was moved to Toronto area, Ontario, where the military facilities of Norway got the name of ‘Little Norway’. New Norwegian pilots were relentlessly trained there, preparing them to repel the enemy from their Scandinavian motherland.

The Third Reich managed to keep a grip on southern Norway until its collapse and the end of WWII in Europe. Having witnessed the failure of neutrality as a foreign policy, in the rapidly deteriorating post-WWII scenario and the beginning of the Cold War between the Soviet-led eastern bloc and the free democracies of the western world, Norway joined NATO as a founding member.

Since then and for more than four decades, Norway was on one of the ‘hot’ fronts of the war, with a border-crossing point with the USSR, and a privileged position to patrol the skies over the shipping routes leading from the highly-militarized Kola peninsula into the Atlantic Ocean (see this post). Keeping a constant watch on the air, surface and submarine movements of the USSR was a task brilliantly covered by the Norwegian Air Force and Navy for the entire duration of the Cold War.

Today, western world issues like climate-related hysteria and hardly shareable, deeply ideological so-called ‘carbon neutrality’ policies promise to definitively clip the wings to sport, private and commercial aviation especially in this Country, through an unprecedented technological leap back. Similarly, the (today, so evidently) short-sighted post-Cold War dismantlement of military power in Europe has impacted military forces also in Norway.

However, the memory of the glorious years when this proud Scandinavian Nation has been on the forefront of aviation technology and in the focus of military action are duly relived in two wonderful aviation collections, celebrating what can be achieved through technical skill, courage and good national ideals.

One of these collections is the Norwegian Aviation Museum, located east of the airport of Bodø, a coastal town on the Norwegian Sea, not far north of the Polar Circle. The other is the Norwegian Armed Forces Aircraft Collection, located just west of Oslo-Gardermoen Airport, in the south of the Country and close to the capital city. Both museums host world-class collections, really worth a detour for aviation-minded people from whatever continent, and for the general public as well, as can be possibly perceived from the pictures in this post.

Photographs in this post were taken during a visit to both destinations in August 2022.

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Sights

Norwegian Aviation Museum – Bodø

The Norwegian Aviation Museum in Bodø is located on the northeastern corner of the airport, dominating this coastal town north of the Polar Circle. The airport was founded back in the 1920s, strongly potentiated by the Germans in WWII, and extensively used over the Cold War decades for mixed military and civil use. Today, it is mainly a commercial airport, with some residual military activity. However, the Air Station at Bodø shows evident traces of a military past – aircraft shelters, bunkers and large antenna arrays point the hilly panorama south of the runway.

The museum covers many aspects of the history of aeronautics in Norway. Both civil and military aviation are well represented, the respective collections being hosted in two adjoining large halls, merging into the central atrium – featuring a Northrop F-5 in the colors of the Royal Norwegian Air Force (RNoAF). This type has been the backbone of the RNoAF in the latter decades of the Cold War years.

Civil aviation hall

The proposed path in the civil aviation hall follows a chronological order, and starts with a display of memorabilia from the early aviation years and from the age of the adventurous polar explorations. The items on display include flags, historical pictures, personal belongings taken by explorers on polar exploration trips and many interesting explanatory panels.

Aircraft on display include rare early seaplanes, employed to establish transport services. These are put side by side with more modern aircraft of the company Widerøe, which today is responsible for most of the short-range high-frequency services linking the scattered settlements in the northern part of Norway – up to North Cape.

Nice advertisement posters are displayed to retrace the history of some classic airlines, including the all-private Braathens, once a major airline from Norway, and telling about the foundation of SAS – which incorporated also Braathens at the turn of the century – which stands for ‘Scandinavian Airlines System’. It is still today a big carrier linking Northern Europe and the world. These companies were among the world first massively flying polar routes, thanks to on-board instrumentation specifically made to tackle the navigation issues showing up when flying close to the poles.

A turning point in the history of Braathens has been the introduction of jets, in the form of the Fokker F.28, for which this airline has been a launch customer. An exemplar of the F.28 is partly preserved in the museum, allowing to check out the fully analog cockpit.

Helicopters, including one with a special pod hosting an entire berth for SAR operations, are also well represented. The Police is clearly using the latest models of rotary wing technology.

A rare aircraft on display is a British-made Britten-Norman Islander, once operating in the colors of the local company Norving. Very evocative pictures show the unusual scenarios often faced by airlines operating in near-polar regions!

Another peculiar mission covered by aircraft in Norway has been that of territory imaging and survey, including for archaeology in the search for ancient viking remains, typically hard to see from ground level. A Cessna 337 Skymaster push-pull originally tasked with this mission is on display. This type is pretty hard to see in Europe, but has enjoyed even a significant military career in the US (see this post).

A big bird on display is a beautiful original Junkers Ju-52 three-props seaplane. This is one of four originally in the fleet of the Norwegian flag carrier ‘Det Norske Luftfartselskap’, established in the 1930s, and operating with a mixed fleet of British, German and American models.

The cockpit of the Junkers has been put in a display case to be admired more easily.

Among the many other items on display in the civil aviation hall, you can find an original wind tunnel model of the Concorde, aircraft remains from an accident, and some unusual or one-off aircraft models.

Military aviation hall

The hall dedicated to military aviation starts again following the timeline of aviation history. The early-age manufacturers appearing in Norway when aircraft were still a totally new technological novelty are represented with dioramas of technical shops, scale models and historical pictures. Some aircraft dating to the pre-WWII years are also on display.

However, a major subject covered in the display is that of WWII. Norway was conquered by the invading German forces in a short and aggressive campaign in Spring 1940. Well planned from a strategic viewpoint, this operation included the capture of the airport of Oslo – the old field of Oslo-Fornebu – on the 9th of April, which was then used as a major base for landing transport aircraft, unloading military staff and material in the most populated area of the Country.

The landslide Third Reich invasion forced the government and the military chain of command to withdraw to Britain. An agreement was then settled to establish a military flight academy near Toronto, Ontario, to supply the Norwegian armed forces with new pilots, to carry out offensive operations from Britain.

The collection features many interesting items from WWII period. From a balcony you are offered a view of the collection, and a vantage view on the relic of a Luftwaffe Junkers Ju-88, transported to the museum after recovery.

The air operations in the invasion of Spring 1940 are documented with interesting scale models and dioramas, as well as much technical material retrieved from the days of German occupation. This includes cameras for photo reconnaissance, Third Reich military maps of the region, flags, aircraft engines, and many historical pictures.

From the same era, the cockpit of a Soviet Ilyushin Il-2 Sturmovik, documents of the air actions against the Third Reich occupants, and others concerning the history of ‘Little Norway’ – the Norwegian military training facilities in Canada – are also on display.

Aircraft displayed in this area include restored or partly reconstructed examples of a De Havilland Mosquito, a Supermarine Spitfire, as well as a Focke-Wulf FW190 and a Messerschmitt BF-109 on the German side.

All these birds together make for a really unusual and evocative sight today! Especially the German fighters are really rare to find, and their condition and presentation is really eye-catching.

Further aircraft from the time include a North American Harvard trainer, and a big Consolidated PBY Catalina seaplane used for patrol. The latter looks really massive hosted indoor, compared to smaller fighter aircraft!

Anti-aircraft guns and a pretty unusual radio emitter/transmission station, employed as beacons for helping instrumental navigation in the war years, are also part of this interesting display.

Next to the WWII area is the Cold War section of the display. Following the bad WWII experience with a policy of international neutrality, resulting in an invasion by a powerful enemy force, following the escalating divergence between the western Allies and the USSR, Norway opted for joining NATO as a founding member.

The alliance with the US and Britain, similar to other NATO Countries, meant a substantial supply of American and (at least in the beginning) British military supply. A North American F-86 Sabre and a Republic F-84 Thunderjet are two beautiful representatives from the early Cold War era. Similarly, a De Havilland Vampire is hanging from the ceiling.

A slightly more modern item is a Lockheed F-104 Starfighter. Not much employed in the US, it covered the interceptor role along the border with the Eastern Bloc in Norway, Federal Germany and Italy for many years.

Historical pictures tell – among many interesting subjects – about other aircraft, like the Lockheed T-33 Shooting Star, as well as the F-104 and the F-5 involved in interception and escort flights, shadowing Tupolev Tu-95, Antonov An-12 and other USSR machines flying over international waters or scraping the border of Scandinavian airspaces – quintessential Cold War memories!

Possibly a reason for Bodø having grown to further fame in the aviation community of Western Countries is the presence here of a real Lockheed U-2 spy plane. This aircraft can be found in Europe only at the Imperial War Museum in Duxford, Britain, and here. Actually, a curious fact about Bodø is that it was a designated destination or an alternate (emergency) airfield for the perilous overflights of the USSR, carried out with the Lockheed U-2, and later with the Mach 3+ Lockheed SR-71. Actually, the latter landed here in one occasion, whereas the ill-fated mission of Francis Gary Powers, downed by Soviet SAMs while en-route north of Kazakhstan from Peshawar, Pakistan, had Bodø as a destination (see this post for pictures of the relic in Moscow).

The U-2 is displayed so that it is possible to both appreciate its slim shape and large wing span, and also get near to its cockpit. However, its installation and lighting inside the hall – and the fact that it is black… – make it a rather difficult target for photographs. Next to the aircraft, historical pictures and schemes tell about the mission of Francis Gary Powers. Interesting tables for the interpretation of photo intelligence are also on display.

Still in the Cold War part of the museum, a very unusual and interesting section is centered on the facilities and technical gear for the detection and monitoring of airspace intrusion, for early warning and for alerting the air defenses of the National airspace.

This secretive and little publicized branch of the military kept its ears and eyes constantly pointed on the moves of the colossal Soviet neighbor, recording every single movement – look for the super-interesting registry of USSR aircraft movements! – and constantly updating the situation, in order to be ready to counter a sudden ‘turn for the worst’, in case of an actual attack.

Interestingly, much of the electronics here is US made, as can be seen looking at the product tags.

The arsenal that could be employed to counter an air attack included the Nike-Ajax and later Nike-Hercules surface to air missiles, deployed along the border with the Eastern Bloc also in Denmark, Germany and Italy (see here and here).

Just to complete this incredible Cold War exhibition, an interesting and pretty unique air-dropped WE-177 nuclear bomb case is on display!

More modern addition to the aircraft collection include a General Dynamics F-16 Fighting Falcon and some helicopters.

A latter interesting part of the military exhibition showcases an array of aircraft-mounted cannons from various ages, showing their precision and their effect on the same target. You can appreciate the effects of the technical evolution of these weapons.

Examples of air-launched missiles and sonobuoys, and a fine array of flight suits showing the evolution of their design, conclude this exceptional museum.

As a plus, the old control tower of the military air station has been turned into a panorama point, where you can watch air operation on the actual airport, and also listen to air traffic frequencies!

The gate guardians include a Bell helicopter and an old glorious Hawker Hurricane from WWII.

Visiting

The museum is located at Bodø airport, and can be spotted pretty easily when entering the town. Bodø can be included – or considered as a starting point – in many tours of Northern Norway. The museum offers a large and convenient parking. It can be toured in not less than 2 hours for aviation-minded people. The website is here.

Norwegian Armed Forces Aircraft Collection – Oslo-Gardermoen

Coherently with its name, this wonderful collection is focused on military aviation in Norway. Most aircraft having served in the RNoAF at some point in history are represented, as well as some from WWII – not only from the Allied side, but most notably some rare exemplars from the Third Reich.

A great feature of this museum is also the architecture of the display. Put in a U-shaped building to the southwest of Oslo-Gardermoen airport, the aircraft are in most cases sufficiently far from one another to allow moving around freely, getting an unobstructed view from different angles. Furthermore, the natural lighting from the top windows is ideal for pictures (similar to the solution adopted in the Estonian Aviation Museum, see here).

Late 20th century

The display starts with the Northrop F-5, which is represented by three exemplars, interspersed with a single example of a General Dynamics F-16 Fighting Falcon – currently in use with the RNoAF, to be replaced by the Lockheed Martin F-35 Lightning II. The Freedom Fighter has been the backbone of the RNoAF for the latter years of the Cold War, being flanked and substituted by the Fighting Falcon, and now by the Lightning II.

The aircraft on display are two F-5 Freedom Fighter, i.e. the light fighter version – one in a distinctive tiger painting – and one RF-5 Tigereye, which has been developed from the original design into a capable photo reconnaissance aircraft.

Walking beneath the F-5 reveals many details, for instance the landing gear mechanism, the missile pylons and anchoring system, and JATO bottles for reducing the take-off distance.

A J85 jet engine – there were two for each F-5 – is on display, with the afterburner pipe mounted past the turbine exhaust. A choice of missiles and pods can be seen close to the ‘tiger painted’ exemplar. The latter can be boarded. The fully analog cockpit shows much standard instrumentation for flight control, navigation and engine management, but also an armament panel with weapons selection and activation switches. Also interesting are the parachute deployment lever, for the arresting parachute, or the underwing load jettison system.

The RF-4 reconnaissance aircraft features a nose camera, with a prominent lens which can be easily checked out. Similarly, the hatch of the port 20-mm cannon has been left open, showing the cannon body, barrel and the very neat ammo supply system.

Next to these aircraft are a Lockheed F-104 Starfighter in a two-seats trainer configuration, and the front section of another exemplar with the original cockpit, which can be boarded. The J79 engine of the Starfighter, apparently originally from Canada judging from the Orenda labels on some components, has been taken out of the fuselage and can be appreciated in all its length (with the afterburner pipe to the back).

The cockpit of the Starfighter is cramped, with little legroom and a very limited front visibility. It is fully analog, similar to the F-5.

In a corner of the hall, an original simulator – apparently for an F-16 – has found a new collocation, possibly from a military aviation academy.

Early Cold War

The next part of the display offers the sight of a full array of fascinating, well-preserved aircraft from the early Cold War period. The first is a North American F-86 Sabre, with an attractive golden front intake decoration. Walking around and looking closely, many particular features can be spotted, including the leading edge slats. A ‘used’ Martin Baker ejection seat shows the little damage resulting from actual employment in case of emergency.

Next is an improved version of the Sabre (F-86K), which features a very different intake, such to accommodate in the bulbous nose a powerful radar antenna. The latter could work in conjunction with a computer, and offered a substantial help in increasing the offensive capability of this fighter, which could also be operated in all weather conditions.

A nice gem of the collection is an original portable cabinet for testing the General Electric J47 engine. This cabinet looks like a suitcase, but it could be positioned standing on its legs, linked with connectors to the on-board systems, and could show the working condition of the engine in a mounted configuration. The monitoring instrumentation is fully analog. It would make for a great item for collectors of Cold War technical gear!

Then follows an Republic F-84 Thunderjet early jet fighter, with its neat lines, wing tip tanks, and an under-fuselage spoiler in a deflected position.

Nearby, the rather different – despite the similar code – Republic RF-84F Thunderflash photo reconnaissance aircraft prominently displays its big-diameter optics in the nose.

The really elegant design of a Lockheed T-33 can be appreciated next. The air intakes are really works of art, and the bare metal color just adds to the vintage line of this early design.

Similarly graceful is the iconic De Havilland Vampire, the only British addition to this US-dominated aircraft display from the Cold War era. With its distinctive twin-boom tail, the typical De Havilland vertical fins dating back to the pre-WWII propeller-driven examples, the shrouded jet engine totally disappearing in the body of the aircraft, with small, fenced intakes on the leading edges of the wing, this aircraft looks like a really good balance between engineering-driven design choices and pure elegance.

WWII aircraft

A central section of the exhibition is centered on WWII-era aircraft, starting with two Supermarine Spitfire, one hanging from the ceiling, and one sitting on its wheels, in a greenish color and RNoAF emblems.

What follows is a pretty unique US-made aircraft, a Northrop N-3PB seaplane, ordered as a sea patrolling aircraft by Norway, but not reaching Scandinavia in time before the German invasion. It was then employed as a sea patrol from Iceland by the Norwegian forces in exile. Possibly looking not so conspicuous in pictures, it is a rather massive bird. It shows an interesting floatplane design, where floats are anchored to the wings through aerodynamically profiled struts, so as to reduce drag as much as possible.

Walking around it, you can notice the relatively light weaponry hanging from the fuselage bottom, the down-firing back cannon for defense, and the detachable wheels to pull the aircraft ashore.

Then a very rare bird follows – a German Heinkel He-111 bomber from WWII! Restored in a mint-looking condition, this aircraft makes for a unique sight in the panorama of aviation collections.

This iconic aircraft from the Third Reich, much known to aviation-minded people especially in connection with the early landslide campaigns of the Third Reich in Europe and for the Battle of Britain, can be examined from very close and beneath, unveiling some interesting peculiar features. For example, the bomb bay features vertical square-section separated ‘blisters’, a totally different solution with respect to larger US bombers from the age.

The underbelly shooting pod allowed the cannon operator to ‘rest’ in a laid down position. The front cannon is clearly asymmetrically placed with respect to the aircraft centerline, following a side curvature of the nose cone such to increase pilot’s visibility.

Close by is another incredibly well-preserved addition from the Third Reich’s Luftwaffe, a Junkers Ju-52 transport in fashionable military colors.

The Ju-52 and He-111 were the main characters involved in the blitzkrieg attack to Oslo-Fornebu, the now bygone airport of central Oslo, which was the stage of a massive air-launched German attack in April 1940, a substantial contribution and a prelude to the complete invasion of Norway. Both aircraft are surrounded by a set of accessories from the time, including searchlights, fuel tanks, spare parts, anti-aircraft guns and even service trolleys with skis to be used on snowy aprons! The ensemble is really quite a sight.

From roughly the same age is also a perfectly preserved Douglas C-47 Skytrain – a true war veteran! Preserved in the colors of the RNoAF, it was originally incorporated in the USAAF and employed in action in Europe since mid-1944. It flew during the Berlin Airlift, operating in and out West Berlin transporting goods during Stalin’s blockade of the town in 1948-49 (see this chapter). It later joined the RNoAF and was employed for radar tuning and for transport until the mid-1970s.

The color scheme of the RNoAF looks great on this C-47, and the presentation among some airport service vehicles from the time adds to the display.

Further recent aircraft

Approaching the extremity of the U-shaped building, you can find a De Havilland Twin Otter with skis, some classic helicopters, some aircraft undergoing restoration – including substantial remains of a Junkers Ju-88 bomber from the Third Reich! – and a massive Lockheed C-130 Hercules.

The latter is possibly the aircraft in the collection having been retired most recently. It has been deprived of its vertical fin, which simply couldn’t fit inside the building, but the rest is almost complete. The engine pods are opened, so that you can see inside. An array of JATO bottles to enhance take-off performance has been anchored to the side of the fuselage.

The aircraft is on display with the back and side doors opened, so that boarding its preserved interior and cockpit is indeed possible.

Inside the cockpit, chance is you meet a living legend, the flight engineer of the RNoAF Mons Nygård, who will explain you the features and operations of his aircraft! The man joined the Armed Forces in the late 1950s until the 1990s, with a military career spanning a big part of the Cold War. He flew extensively the Hercules, as well as other aircraft including the Lockheed P-3 Orion, logging a staggering  more-than-17’000 hours in flight!

We could interview him about his career, which unfolded several nice anecdotes and memories from the Cold War years, and a real passion for his super-reliable aircraft and for his job. It’s no wonder the Hercules, being designed in the 1950s, is still in service with many Armed Forces of the world.

Anti-aircraft defense system

Finally, the exhibition includes Nike-Ajax and Nike-Hercules anti-aircraft missiles (SAM). Installed in batteries against an attack from the USSR also in Norway (see for instance this preserved battery in Italy, this in Denmark, or this ghost one in former Federal Germany), these nuclear-capable massive missiles were in service typically between the 1950s and the early 1980s, becoming by then obsolete.

Of great interest for technically-minded people are some of the inside components of these missiles, including components of the guidance system and some electronics, which can be seen in display cases, as well as technical vehicles for launch control, radar operation etc.

Other lighter anti-aircraft weapons from the Cold War era are displayed nearby, thus covering also this interesting subject in good detail.

Balcony

The visit may be concluded with a walk along the inside balcony, from which a good view of all the aircraft just mentioned is obtained.

On the same balcony, you can find also many trainers once used for teaching young pilots the basics of flight. Some are classic models belonging to the era of Little Norway and WWII, when training for freshly recruited pilots was carried out in Ontario, Canada.

The gate guardians for this beautiful collection are an F-5 and an F-104, the latter in the greenish colorway seen also in the collection in Bodø.

Visiting

This fantastic collection can be found in the southwestern corner of the premises of Oslo-Gardermoen airport, the main airport serving the Norwegian capital city.

The museum is administrated by the Armed Forces.

Visiting for the aircraft enthusiast may be very rewarding and may take more than 2 hours, since the exceptional state of preservation of the artifacts and the many details you can explore through a walk around very close to the aircraft invite to spend time inside. You have also chance to speak with former military crew, which adds much to the experience. Very good photo opportunities for an indoor collection.

Large free parking ahead of the entrance, with picnic facilities. Nice model shop by the ticket office.

The museum is normally open on weekends, but further visits may be scheduled out of these opening slot. Please check the info on their website here.