Military Collections in Sweden – Second Chapter

Visiting southern Sweden offers many opportunities to dig into the rich military history of this beautiful Country in Scandinavia. As pointed out in the initial chapter on this topic (see this post), after centuries spent in assuring a stable and strong position in Northern Europe, often times with the help of a powerful military, Sweden managed to keep a neutral role in all major conflicts raging over the continent in the 20th century. While avoiding to openly taking the parts of any of the foreign contenders, in order to defend its territory and its neutrality policy, Sweden invested much in the development of national technology and in the military field.

This process was successful, resulting in a gallery of interesting and original industrial products introduced over the years, especially (yet not only) in the field of defense. Among the most tangible outcomes of this push, considering the years of the Cold War, are the unique Swedish school of aircraft design, culminating in the SAAB aircraft dynasty, as well as the establishment of factories manufacturing field weapons or land vehicles for all purposes, notably ranging from cars for everyday use to heavier armored vehicles, which are still in business today.

Of course, this development process profited from contacts with the West, especially Britain, France and the USA. For instance, in the post-WWII years, selected jet engines, missile systems or tanks were purchased from the West. Interestingly however, after the end of the Cold War, some surplus material of Soviet production, coming from newly opened borders, ended up in the inventory of the Swedish military. This reflects the often pragmatic philosophy behind procurement, usually adopted by the Armed Forces in this Country.

For those with an interest in the rich military history of Sweden, several collections can be found in the southernmost part of its territory, which is coincidentally the easiest to reach and visit from continental Europe. These collections, often actively supported by groups of enthusiasts, offer a glimpse of the technical and military tradition of this welcoming Country.

In this chapter, two of the most prominent museums in the area dedicated mostly to artillery are covered, with photographs taken from a visit in 2024.

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Sights

Hässleholms Museum, Hässleholm

The exhibition of the Hässleholms Museum merges a few thematic collections, gathered and carefully maintained by local groups of enthusiasts. The topics are mainly technical vehicles of the Swedish Armed Forces – including armored vehicles, field transport vehicles, trucks, field kitchens, jeeps, special purpose trailers, etc. – and vehicles for the fire brigade. In addition, the museum has on display weapons, technical gear and training material employed by the Army.

It is actually from here that the exhibition starts. Support material like transportable field kitchens, including one from WWII years, and a portable forge for processing horseshoes are on display, within nice full-scale dioramas portraying scenes from different ages.

Training material include medical material and a rig for simulating a reanimation maneuver on a human body. Further medical gear includes many items for field surgery, as well as a diorama of field surgery room set up in a tent.

A huge, super-interesting collection of training plates is on display – really rare in this size. Plates are typically employed for illustrating the assembly of mechanical systems (weapons, on-board systems of vehicles or aircraft, etc.), or to shortlist the basic characteristics of enemy vehicles. Most of these clearly date from the Cold War era, and refer to military material from those decades.

Original cases with figurines to recreate tactical scenarios, for operation planning or training purposes, make for an unusual display. Similarly, reviews and brochures covering topics of military interest, as well as vehicle recognition charts in Swedish language (in this language are also the training plates) are unusual items to find.

Some of the plates explain what to do in case of a nuclear attack, or one carried out with chemical agents. These plates are displayed together with protection gear, mostly gas masks, and antidotes – including an automatic syringe for injecting the neutralizing agent for nerve gas (atropine)!

Artillery weapons, like special grenades, shoulder launchers, and various types of mines and standard cartridges, are displayed as samples in convenient display cases.

Even a few fragments of the Third Reich battleship Tirpitz, sunken in northern Norway, ended up here – as well as in many other military museums in Scandinavia (see this post). These armor pieces have been employed for testing some type of ammunition. The thickness of this armor is always impressive!

A gallery of uniforms, including personal light weapons and technical gear (like skis or portable aiming devices) conclude this part of the exhibition.

The collection of military vehicles takes two adjoining hangars. It is particularly appealing for technically-minded people, since it looks like mechanics workshop, with a mixture of assembled and disassembled vehicles, allowing to see the inside, as well as the on-board sub-plants.

Armored vehicles on display are really many. Among the most massive are a Centurion battle tank, and a recovery vehicle for the same type. This highly successful British tank has seen extensive and prolonged use by the Swedish Army from the early 1950s to the 1990s, when it was phased out in favor of the German Leopard heavy tank. Depending on the variant, the Centurion was attributed several code-names in the Swedish inventory, namely Strv 81, 101, 102 and 104 (Strv standing for Stridsvagn, the Swedish word for tank).

Ahead of the tank, you can see its very power train, composed of the mighty Rolls-Royce Meteor, 27 liters V12, 650 hp engine, and the Merrit Brown Z51R transmission gearbox. The recovery vehicle is roughly as massive as the tank itself.

Close by the Centurion, another sizable item is the armored bridging vehicle Brodbandvagn 971 (aka Brobv 971), which is the Swedish inventory name for what is actually a GDR-designed machine! Looking for a bridging vehicle compatible with the weight of the Leopard tank, a relatively cheap alternative was found in the BLG-60 model, originally manufactured by the German Democratic Republic (GDR) modifying the blueprint of the Soviet T-55 tank, and later sold as surplus by reunified Germany. Roughly half of the 32-units batch got from Germany in 1999 is still preserved today in Sweden, including the exemplar on display here.

The bridge span is 20-m when deployed, and the top load is 50 tons (actually a bit short of the weight of a Leopard tank…).

Next, a rare sight here is the Rlpbv 4014 radio link armored track vehicle. Again, this was originally an East German tank purchased as surplus by Sweden. It was modified in that instance from the original Soviet design (named MT-LB) into a signal relay platform, supplied with parabolic antennas. The latter were removed from the tank upon retirement, which took place by 2011, together with all technical gear. Only a few machines were sold to Finland at the time, and the exemplar in the museum is the only surviving of this specific type in Sweden.

Close by are a Pbv 301 and a Pbv 302 armored and tracked infantry fighting vehicles, designed and largely employed by Sweden. Pbv 301 dates from the 1960s, and was superseded by Pbv 302, eventually manufactured in more than 600 exemplars during the Cold War and employed uniquely by the Swedish Army until retirement in 2014.

Bigger and heavily armed vehicles are interspersed with service vehicles, typically designed in Sweden, or propelled by Swedish engines. These include a trucks with cranes, field ambulances, technical wagons with tooling for repairs carried out in the field.

Motorcycles are well represented too, some of them with interesting side skis, installed for advancing on snowy terrain.

A rather unusual sight is a full-scale field bakery! This is composed of a trail to prepare bread dough, and a big bakery oven. This and similar components of military supply, albeit often overlooked, are actually crucial in real operations, just like field guns and armored tanks – a quote attributed to Napoleon actually tells ‘An army marches on its stomach’!

Smaller items on display in the same area include several types of engines, presented on transport cases, attached to testing rigs etc. These engines range from Volvo to some US manufacturers, and include marine engines, tank engines and gas generators.

Another highlight of the show is a Stridsvagn 103. An original Swedish design from the 1980s mostly intended for domestic supply in consideration of the characteristics of the Swedish territory, this tank is designed for a crew of three, but conceived to be optionally fully operated by a single crew. It is equipped with a blade to prepare a dugout, thus converting into a field cannon, and it is able to move in shallow waters. The only limitation is in the lack of a turret, which is traded-off for a better compactness and low-rising side section, which in turns makes this tank less exposed to enemy fire especially on uneven terrain, where chance of hiding is higher.

Beside the tank, it is possible to see the engine, and the corresponding tank-trailer and support vehicle, a tracked vehicle itself called Bgbv 82, and obtained as a modification of the Pbv 302 (see above).

Nearby, several technical vehicles, including trucks and trailers (some with provision made to carry skis!), can be checked out as well.

An interesting Swedish vehicle here is a tracked anti-aircraft missile launcher, model Lbrbv 701 manufactured by Hagglunds. The main weapon is the surface-to-air missile Robot 70. The aiming device is particularly prominent to the front of the vehicle.

An array of three anti-tank machines is presented next. The first is a tracked anti-tank missile carrier, named Pvrbv 551, and originally capable of carrying 8 anti-tank missiles, shot from a single barrel on top of the tank. The second is a wheeled vehicle, named Pvpjtgb 1111 and manufactured by Volvo. This still carries a 9-cm recoil-less gun, and it was supplied with 8 shots. The third is a Pvpjtgb 9031, an even lighter vehicle from the 1960s, featuring again a 9-cm recoil-less anti-tank gun.

A few tanks designed in Sweden conclude the display in the first of the two dedicated hangars. On the two extremes of the same row are a Strv 74 and an older m/38, aka L-60. The former was a light tank developed in the late 1950s by physically modifying older m/38 models (both types were manufactured by the Landsverk company in Sweden), and kept in service until the 1980s.

In between these two tanks are displayed a Strv m/42 and two exemplars of the self-propelled cannon m/43, respectively a tank-destroyer version (Pvkv m/43) with a prominent 7.5 cm anti-tank gun, and anti-aircraft version (Lvkv m/43), featuring a 40 mm twin-barreled anti-aircraft gun.

The second hangar has in store a rare Strv m/40, developed during WWII based on the m/38 (see above). All other vehicles on display are wheeled. These include the Tgbil m/42, a 4×4 armored transport. This vehicle is an impressive Swedish design (with several big names involved in the design) enjoying an incredibly long career, spanning from WWII to the early 21st century through several upgrades and modifications.

Another iconic Swedish design by Volvo is the TP21, an off-road personal transport vehicle, originating in the 1950s from the successful PV800 civilian series by Volvo.

Also in this area field kitchens are on display, together with trucks, tractors and other technical vehicles.

The final indoor component of this impressive collection is made of vehicles belonging to the fire brigade. The crucial role of firefighting was made even more complex back then, due the limited supply of pressurized water on the territory, as well as the use of wood as the basic material for construction, and of open fire for many more uses than today.

The earlier vehicles are mostly carriages or cars converted for carrying small pumps, evacuation ladders and water hoses.

More modern vehicles on display are mostly US-designed types (Ford, Chevrolet).

The collection in Hässleholm is completed by a few items sitting outdoor. These include a Volvo P210 transport van, a red Hägglunds Bandvagn 206 – a marvelous and very successful multi-purpose, all-terrain tracked transport (see also this post) – and a Brobv 941, a bridge-layer vehicle introduced in the 1970s and in service until the end of the Cold War to support operation of the tank units of the time.

All in all, this museum is an unmissable stop for those in search of an insight on the history of artillery and military technical production of Sweden.

Getting there and visiting

The museum is located on the eastern side of Hassleholm, a peaceful village in the southernmost region of Sweden. The exact name and address is Hässleholms Museum – Norra Kringelvägen 9, 28141 Hässleholm. Large parking on the inside apron. There is a little cafe inside, and a little shop. Visiting might easily take about 2 hours for an interested subject, reading the documentation and taking pictures.

The website, in Swedish language, but pretty self-explanatory at least for the most relevant visiting information, can be found here.

Artillerimuseet i Kristianstad, Kristianstad

The Museum of Artillery has been established in the southern town of Kristianstad, for roughly two centuries the home of the A3 ‘Wendes’ Artillery Regiment. This was originally formed in 1794, and stationed permanently (partly or entirely) in Kristianstad since 1815 until 1994, with disbandment following in the year 2000.

The collection is physically hosted in a few low-rise buildings and depots. Most of them are accessible on a self-guided base, where a couple of them can be visited only on a guided tour.

The building where the ticket office is has on display some interesting communication equipment, including encryption gear, retracing the history of military communication in Sweden from the end of the 19th century to the full span of the Cold War.

Most of the consoles are made in Sweden, but some made by Nokia, Philips or Siemens are similarly on display. In the same room the history of grenade construction is illustrated, through relevant specimens of shells and cartridges.

An adjoining building is employed for gatherings by veterans, sympathizers and preservation groups, and usually showcases an annual temporary exhibition. At the time of my own visit in 2024, the theme of the exhibition was the combat-readiness in Sweden, from WWII onward.

The other buildings are former depots, and offer a wide range of artillery pieces and military vehicles, covering the history of artillery warfare in Sweden.

The artillery pieces on display in a first depot are from the 19th century. They include some very interesting one-of-a-kind exemplars, for example a French cannon from Napoleon’s army! The iconic ‘N’ mark of the French Emperor is still intact on top of the barrel.

Another interesting item is a rocket launcher, made in Sweden from 1832, and cloned from an earlier British model. This early system, well ahead of its time as a concept, was not satisfactory in terms of field performance, thus it was phased by 1846. Additionally, an early multi-barreled gun from 1875 has been restored by volunteers to an almost pristine condition.

An experimental recoil-suppressing gun carriage, with a prominent metal spring integrated in the structure, is on display along with many pieces which allow to appreciate the gradual improvement in the technology of field guns over the 19th century.

The exhibition on artillery pieces is continued in another depot, mostly with horse carriages, needed for the movement of artillery, as well as with position artillery. The big calibers here, mostly made in Sweden, offer a very complete display of the catalog of guns employed for defense. Typically too heavy for quick repositioning, the purpose of this type of gun was that of defending fortresses or coastal positions.

Moving on to the last two depots, these deal mostly with the Cold War era. In a first one, artillery technology from the Cold War era is on display, including guns, as well as tons of technical devices for aiming, communicating, taking field measurements, etc.

Among the artifacts on display is an original camera for reconnaissance troops, as well as incredible traces of an espionage operation! You can see two maps of the same location, one released by Swedish authorities, the other by the Soviet Union. The latter is clearly way more accurate than the former, when it comes to describing a site of military interest, undisclosed on the Swedish map. Based on the date of the Soviet map, the espionage activity must have taken place in the early 1960s, at the height of the Cold War.

A diorama displays a reconstruction of an entrenched observation post.

Two adjoining dioramas reproduce a fire control post and a gun emplacement for a 10.5 cm howitzer. This design from 1940 saw action well into the 1960s and the Cold War, which is the time of the gun emplacement diorama. Notably, a muzzle velocity measurement system is mounted on the cannon.

Measuring atmospheric conditions in the field is an often overlooked component of artillery action, but it is actually crucial when good precision is required for a hit. Especially when a cannon is capable of hitting way ahead of its muzzle, a good knowledge of the state of the atmosphere – including wind intensity and direction, as well as the temperature and other properties of air – between the cannon and the target is totally relevant for accurately computing the trajectory and hit point of the shell. For example, a substantial error of some hundred meters on a hit may result for a shell travel of 20-30 km, typical for a high-performance field cannon of the Cold War, even for a mild wind below 10 knots.

An aiming system PE07/R based on a radar and a balloon with onboard sensors is on display, intended for the 10.5 cm howitzer.

A much more modern weather radar and fire control station for the Bofors 15.5 cm FH77A field gun can be similarly checked out. Dating from the 1970s and the early digital era, this original Swedish system offered improved range (almost 20 km) and accuracy with respect to all previous models.

Two exemplars of the FH77A gun are on display as well! The cannon had a good maneuverability and autonomy of motion. It could be transported on longer distances coupled to a Scania 411 truck, also on display.

In the same room are a French 15.5 cm cannon, acquired in the 1950s, and a much older Krupp 21 cm howitzer. The latter, a German design from 1917, represents the top caliber ever pressed into service by the Swedish artillery, and saw action in Finland, where it was leased out during WWII (see this post).

A bit of an outlier here is a diorama of a cavalry charge from the 19th century – which is however impressively well-crafted!

The last depot is especially lively in the summer, when vehicles mostly preserved in fully working conditions are taken out on the apron! Anyway, the depot is also interesting as a static display, with many well preserved items, all formerly in service with the Swedish armed forces.

These include first a full range of motorbikes, some of them today rather sought-after classics! They are notably of different makes, including British makers like BSA, Triumph and AJS.

A self-propelled, tracked 15.5 cm cannon, listed as Bkan 1A in the inventory of the Swedish Army and made by Bofors in 1965, stands in front of an older m/43 self-propelled gun, from 1943.

A PBV 301 armored transport and a Caterpillar bulldozer frame an interesting Radiobandvagn 203B. This articulated tracked vehicle resembles the Bandvagn 206 (see above), but it was manufactured by Bolinder Munktell, Sweden. It dates from 1967, but the Volvo engine looks like brand-new!

A US-made Dodge T214, a highly successful machine produced in more than 250,000 units, is on display in its original late-1940s Swedish camouflage. Sweden acquired more than 200 of these utility vehicles from a surplus deposit in France, after WWII.

An example of Pvpjtgb 9031, with its distinctive recoil-less anti-tank cannon, and a Pbv 302 (see above), are on display alongside many military transport vehicles, mostly made by Volvo.

An interesting item is a gas generator designed by Ford, yet bearing Swedish labels, hence likely intended for the Swedish market. This device could employ wood or charcoal to produce gas, which when suitably processed through heat-exchangers, can be employed to run an internal combustion engine. In an emergency situation, like when facing a shortage in oil supply, this type of device can be profitably employed to propel vehicles. This was a rather widespread option during WWII. Bulkier designs can be employed for running larger piston engines, e.g. for electric power production.

On the apron between the depots, more vehicles and guns can be found. Some of them are typically recovered under a roof in the winter, to be taken out in the good season. These include perfectly working examples of a Volvo TP21 military transport (see above) – a predecessor of the modern XC90 SUV! – and a massive Volvo HBT artillery tractor. This half-track vehicle was based on a German design. It was built in Sweden in roughly 100 units, and employed for transporting troops, as well as cargo, including cannon trailers or self-propelled cannons. The speed of each track is controlled together with the direction of the front wheels by the pilot’s yoke, allowing for an easier steering action.

Finally, a few more guns are on display outside, including a rare m/1946 multi-barreled cannon made by Bofors, and even a Soviet 12.2 cm gun m/1932-1937, largely employed within the Soviet Bloc, from Stalin’s era to the 1990s, and donated by a Czech artillery collection to the Artillerimuseet.

Getting there and visiting

The Artillerimuseet can be reached at the address Köpingevägen 86-30, 29163 Kristianstad, which corresponds to a nice countryside location, roughly 3 miles south of the small center of Kristianstad. Access is via a short unpaved road, and the parking area inside is very convenient.

The place is run by knowledgeable volunteers, mostly former military staff. A visit of what is described here, which corresponds to what you can see on your own without a guide in the good season, may take about 1.5-2 hours for an interested person.

Please note that the cashier accepts only cash (possibly other forms of electronic payment available for Swedish residents). The website (mostly in Swedish) with full information is here.

Bunker Kossa – A Preserved Cold War Military Bunker in the GDR

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The history of the underground installation in Kossa-Söllichau begins in the 1930s under Hitler’s rule.

In 1935, an affiliated company of the German chemicals giant WASAG, named Deutsche Sprengchemie Moschwig and devoted to the mass production of explosives for warfare use, had a new plant built in the rather uninhabited forest area between Leipzig and Wittenberg.

The plant, codenamed ‘Beech’ (or ‘Buche’ in German), was updated over the years and turned into a major production center for several models of shells and high-explosive charges. A primary contractor of the German Army, the company also held relevant patents, including one for hollow charge grenades.

By the end of WWII in April 1945, when the area fell under Soviet control and production was halted, the plant counted 3.600 employees, and had a production capacity of around 600.000 ammunitions per month. It had been provided with a dedicated road and railway connection, and built mostly underground, with several concrete bunkers surfacing from the grassy terrain around.

Following the Potsdam agreement (July 1945), the area was completely flattened by the hand of the Soviets, similar to some other production facilities in Germany. Demolition had been completed by the end of 1947. Following that, the area remained silent for more than a decade.

By the early 1960s, with the Cold War and rearmament in full swing, the the Nationale Volksarmee, or NVA – the short name of the Armed Forces of the GDR – had been long established as an ally of the Red Army. The latter was physically present in Germany with a huge number of troops and war material, having taken over many of the former German bases from WWII (see here or here for instance). However, the GDR clearly had its own Armed Forces, which actually could count on high-quality war material, typically either manufactured in Germany or supplied by the USSR. More and more locations – especially the most secluded and easy to hide – got surrounded by fences, and ended under the control of the NVA for many different purposes.

Deployed on the border with the West, and considered a reliable and well-trained partner by the Red Army, the NVA was included in the war plans conceived in Moscow, intended to unfold in the event of an open war with the neighbor NATO Countries. The NVA had two larger military districts, south of Berlin (III) and north of Berlin (V). In case of war, district III would give birth to a 3rd Army of mixed GDR/USSR forces, to quickly push towards the south-west into Federal Germany (heading to Koblenz), and from there to the Atlantic coast, to be reached in a matter of a few days.

The headquarter of the 3rd Army was in the so-called ‘Mosel’ bunker, an underground command facility near the town of Zwickau, today converted for an alternate use and not visible at all.

An alternate control site, which was also primarily involved in drills and training, was built in the area of the former ‘Beech’ installation, and took the name of ‘Bunkeranlage’ (i.e. bunker installation) Kossa-Söllichau. This site was prepared in the years 1976-79, and consisted mainly of 5 large interred bunkers on the same premises, capable of resisting to tactical nuclear blasts, with up-to-date systems for communication, and an ability to replicate war situations, so as to carry out realistic and complicated tactical simulations and drills. The staff was typically of 400.

Similar to the majority of military assets in Germany – and especially within the super-militarized ex-GDR – Kossa was incorporated in the Armed Forces of reunified Germany (1990), but was soon declared surplus, deactivated and handed over for civilian use.

A society of enthusiasts is today running this former facility, keeping it open for visitors on a regular basis. What makes Kossa an exceptional destination for both the general public and the most committed war tourist as well is the great state of conservation of the entire facility. As it can be seen in the following photographs, taken in Summer 2022, inside the bunkers it is possible to see not only the original structure, but most of the original communication systems, paneling, signs, furniture, lamps, toilets, lighting, wallpaper, etc. making the place a very vivid testimony of the Cold War years.

All in all, this is one of the best surviving specimens of bunkerized NVA sites, and definitely worth a visit for a rich in detail full immersion in the military technology and history of the Cold War years.

Sights

A visit to the Kossa site will start walking past the original inner gateway to the bunkerized part of the complex. The original wall going all around the entire military area has been partly removed, allowing to get direct access to the ‘core’ of the installation by car. Traces of the electrified fence running all around this inner part of the complex are still standing. The entrance to a bunker for the guards can be seen in this area, but this cannot be visited.

The core of the complex with the military bunkers is aligned along a single, mostly straight technical road, built with large concrete slabs. The road track today is the same as in the original pre-WWII complex, and for this reason, it was not camouflaged. Other buildings in the complex, an even the connection roads departing from the main one, are painted in camo coat, for deception in case of overflight by plane or satellite.

The ticket office today is hosted in a large technical building by the entrance. In this area there used to be canteens and other services.

Past the entrance to the bunker area, it is possible to visit five bunkers, which will be listed next.

Computer Bunker

Four out of five bunkers (the exception being the intelligence bunker, see later) are built around the same blueprint. They have a single entrance door, deceived under a small wooden hut. Access to the bunker is via a security and decontamination path. At first you see a big camera at the level of your face, and an intercom panel, all for identification. Next follows a sequence of tight doors, at a close distance from one another, producing three small tight compartments.

In case of nuclear/chemical contamination, faced in wartime, in the first compartment you could take an anti-poison kit, EP-68. Exemplars of this are still in place. In the next compartment you had to throw away all your clothes and belongings, which were put through a hatch to the side. In a third small compartment, you found a shower – a central passage in the decontamination process, even in case of exposition to nuclear events.

Through a last tight door, you could finally enter the clean area of the bunker. Here regular toilets and showers can be found, before going down one level, to the technical part.

Back then, there used to be three levels of air sealing. No air sealing, in regular, no-war/no-drill conditions, meant the decontamination procedure was not activated, and the bunker was ventilated with fresh air. In sealing conditions, typically at war but not under direct attack, the bunker was tight closed, and air was pumped from the outside through huge filtering canisters, purpose designed to stop both smoke and other gases, or poisonous chemicals. On the third level of air sealing, corresponding to an emergency condition (e.g. a direct attack), no air was pumped from the outside, and special filters capturing carbon dioxide allowed to carry on for a limited amount of time – reportedly a shorter time than granted by food or water storage.

Filters for the air conditioning system (sealing level 2) and for adsorbing carbon dioxide (sealing level 3) were made in the USSR. Those for carbon dioxide are scattered around the bunkers, and feature a rather vintage Soviet look, with a prominent five pointed star on top. The label carry the assembly year, in most cases the early 1970s.

Once downstairs, you can appreciate the construction of the bunker lower level, based on prefabricated concrete frames. The bunkers in Kossa were capable of resisting blasts typically from smaller tactical devices, and were ranked at the fifth strength level (level ‘E’), the first level being the strongest.

Here a few rooms are still perfectly preserved with computers, of which the most impressive is a mainframe AP-3, working with magnetic tape. The GDR could boast a top-notch electronic industry within the Eastern Bloc, and all consoles and electronics in Kossa bear local labels.

The purpose of the computers, deemed so relevant to create a bunker specifically for them, was the fast elaboration of all information from the war theater. The latter was both local and global, since thanks to the links reaching the site through the intelligence bunker (see later), information of any kind could be elaborated, allowing the constant updating of operation maps, and the monitoring of all war assets. In drills, the computation capacity of the the system allowed to simulate events, thus forming the core of war-game operations.

A small part of the same bunker, a kind of mezzanine, was designed as a small hospital – all exhibits are original here as well.

More items on display in this area include original dosimeters and gear for checking radiation levels – either GDR- or USSR-made. In the connecting corridors are an intercom and an alarm horn – just examples of the perfectly preserved material on display.

Command Bunker

The command bunker shares the general arrangement with the computer bunker. A full anti-chemical/biological warfare suit is displayed by the entrance, ahead of the decontamination facilities. This type of suit should be worn over regular garments, and made for a very uncomfortable, ultra-warm and suffocating top layer, which reportedly caused extreme sweating.

The focus here is a control room, with a large table and an operation map, as well as connections through several lines to the relevant information networks. On one side of the control room are desks for telephone operators. On another, watches and chronographs. Also interesting are two TV-scopes, which allowed to plot useful information especially in case of drills.

Examples of maps for military drills are scattered all around. Since war plans were all variations on the same theme – a quick attack pushing to the west – all corresponding maps feature this type of planned motion, from within the borders of the GDR to the FRG. The name of the drills can be seen clearly stated on the maps – for instance ‘Grenzschicht – 81’ from 1981.

Other rooms on the underground level feature very interesting examples of machinery for translating information to/from paper maps, even physical 3D maps with elevation!

Satellite or spy-plane images of the site are on display as well. The site of Kossa was reportedly not far from the southernmost of the three air corridors reaching West-Berlin from the FRG. However, even though the site was not unknown in the West, its purpose remained largely a guess for the duration of the Cold War – and likely so also for the local civilian population.

Technical Bunker

A major concern in the Cold War was that of the survival of the chain of command in the event of a total nuclear war. This led to the implementation of additional on-site plants, for self-sustained operations in case a nuclear explosion nearby made the area unsuitable for human life, or when links with the surroundings were lost. These plants included primarily power generators, typically large Diesel engines with their fuel tanks, and drinkable water tanks. As seen in the computer bunker, also breathable air was a major concern.

In the technical bunker in Kossa, similar in shape to the previous two, at least two large power generators can still be seen – and smelt… – on the underground level. Several electric parts for replacement are also there. Another room hosts large drinkable water tanks.

An interesting preserved office for a commanding officer still retains its original GDR wallpaper, and additional comfort is provided by a fake wood pavement.

Large electric cabinets take a big room, where instrumentation for radiation measurement is on display nearby.

Other particulars include a dial telephone with a reminder of the quick reaction numbers, including the Volkspolizei – the name of the People’s Police of the GDR, which can be seen on a label!

Intelligence Bunker

The intelligence bunker is way larger than the others in Kossa, and is also more articulated. Access was possible via two bulky metal gates, located at an underground level on the far ends of the bunker, and reached through truck-sized ramps from ground level.

Behind the door, a tunnel of prefabricated concrete allowed to store many vehicles – typically trucks, jeeps and trailers, including vehicles with communication functions.

To the interred back of the tunnel, a human sized hatch gave access to the pressurized, tight area of the bunker. This inner area, completely interred, is surrounded by a concrete case, built by a single pouring to avoid the creation of weak junctions, and such to withstand intense blasts.

Following a tight compartment, with an array of original air-filtering canisters on display, you get access to a long corridor, providing access to some rooms with technical gears for communication. Here communication with different levels of secrecy were managed, accessing all the existing links implemented in the years of construction within the GDR, and between all Countries of the Warsaw Pact and the USSR.

A first room is centered on a large console, with an original teleprinting device still in place – top-notch for the time. Still in use today in some businesses, teleprinting is a very reliable way of communicating, which is also less prone to interception than telephone.

An adjoining room managed contact with three wired systems of communication, working at increasing levels of encryption security, and used for transmitting routine or less-standard orders. These systems included S1 and SAS communication protocols. The corresponding transmitters/receivers – now very rare pieces of machinery – can be seen on display.

Encrypted incoming messages were sent to a special room, where they were translated in human language, before being internally forwarded to the command bunker. Similarly, encryption facilities were all in another room, where outbound communications were made ready for transmission.

An impressive technical room is stacked with communication electronics. The number of components is really high, and reflects a very high performance, achieved by means of top level, but relatively bulky, components from the 1970s.

A room in this bunker is dedicated to the ‘BARS’ system (‘БАРС’ in Russian), a troposphere (i.e. not wired) transmission system within all States in the Warsaw Pact and with the USSR. Beside an indigenous transmission protocol, the system made use of purpose-designed antennas, with easily deployable nodes put on wheeled trucks. An evoking, very interesting map of the fixed nodes of the system, in Russian, can still be seen on a wall. The desks for the operators of the system are just besides.

Another interesting item is the control panel of a micro-wave antenna, installed in Kossa at a shallow underground level, in an area which can still be located, corresponding to an inexplicable grassy lot along the main road in the site. This antenna system was apparently never used, on grounds of energy consumption and potential damages to other systems in the Kossa site.

Back outside, close to the intelligence bunker are an original weather station, placed nearby a radiation detection system – looking like a bell bolted to the ground. Examples of connection roads covered in camo paint can be seen in this area. Along the main road of the site, many ramps give access to semi-interred lots, where technical trucks used to be placed for operations.

An example of these trucks is a Soviet trailer for enemy signal jamming. This is well preserved both inside and outside. The label tells the construction year – 1986.

Museum Bunker

The last visitable bunker is similar in shape to the former three, and has been converted into a collection of items from the history of the old WASAG site, the NVA bunker and the Cold War.

Propaganda items from the GDR enrich this interesting collection, as well as rare photographs from the totally gone ‘Beech’ site originally developed in the Third Reich years. Also on display are detailed designs of the weapons produced here in WWII.

Getting there and Visiting

The Kossa installation can be easily reached by car, roughly 20 miles south of Wittenberg and 30 miles northeast of Leipzig. Exact location here.

The Kossa bunker is professionally managed by a dedicated Society. Their website is here. They speak only German, and the website is in German accordingly. Opening times are published for the season, and are basically in all weekends in the warm season. A synthetic leaflet in English can be obtained. However, the basic notions on this page may also help in getting much of the visit.

Two separate tickets can be purchased, one for a self-guided visit of the computer, technical and museum bunkers, and another for a guided visit of the command and intelligence bunkers. The guided tour is offered only once per day in German, in the early afternoon as of 2022.

A good strategy for a complete visit may be checking in during the morning, visiting the self-guided part, having a packed lunch, and taking the guided tour.

I followed that plan. This meant a stay of roughly five hours. The report on this page was obtained visiting the site together with Dr. Reiner Helling, who offered me a very detailed insight of the Kossa site, before we took the guided tour.

Photography is allowed everywhere. Flash/tripod generally not needed, at least with high-ISO sensors.

Possibly only cash accepted at the ticket counter.