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Bunker Kossa – A Preserved Cold War Military Bunker in the GDR

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Heading to Berlin or the former GDR? Looking for traces of the Cold War open for a visit?

A Travel Guide to COLD WAR SITES in EAST GERMANY

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The history of the underground installation in Kossa-Söllichau begins in the 1930s under Hitler’s rule.

In 1935, an affiliated company of the German chemicals giant WASAG, named Deutsche Sprengchemie Moschwig and devoted to the mass production of explosives for warfare use, had a new plant built in the rather uninhabited forest area between Leipzig and Wittenberg.

The plant, codenamed ‘Beech’ (or ‘Buche’ in German), was updated over the years and turned into a major production center for several models of shells and high-explosive charges. A primary contractor of the German Army, the company also held relevant patents, including one for hollow charge grenades.

By the end of WWII in April 1945, when the area fell under Soviet control and production was halted, the plant counted 3.600 employees, and had a production capacity of around 600.000 ammunitions per month. It had been provided with a dedicated road and railway connection, and built mostly underground, with several concrete bunkers surfacing from the grassy terrain around.

Following the Potsdam agreement (July 1945), the area was completely flattened by the hand of the Soviets, similar to some other production facilities in Germany. Demolition had been completed by the end of 1947. Following that, the area remained silent for more than a decade.

By the early 1960s, with the Cold War and rearmament in full swing, the the Nationale Volksarmee, or NVA – the short name of the Armed Forces of the GDR – had been long established as an ally of the Red Army. The latter was physically present in Germany with a huge number of troops and war material, having taken over many of the former German bases from WWII (see here or here for instance). However, the GDR clearly had its own Armed Forces, which actually could count on high-quality war material, typically either manufactured in Germany or supplied by the USSR. More and more locations – especially the most secluded and easy to hide – got surrounded by fences, and ended under the control of the NVA for many different purposes.

Deployed on the border with the West, and considered a reliable and well-trained partner by the Red Army, the NVA was included in the war plans conceived in Moscow, intended to unfold in the event of an open war with the neighbor NATO Countries. The NVA had two larger military districts, south of Berlin (III) and north of Berlin (V). In case of war, district III would give birth to a 3rd Army of mixed GDR/USSR forces, to quickly push towards the south-west into Federal Germany (heading to Koblenz), and from there to the Atlantic coast, to be reached in a matter of a few days.

The headquarter of the 3rd Army was in the so-called ‘Mosel’ bunker, an underground command facility near the town of Zwickau, today converted for an alternate use and not visible at all.

An alternate control site, which was also primarily involved in drills and training, was built in the area of the former ‘Beech’ installation, and took the name of ‘Bunkeranlage’ (i.e. bunker installation) Kossa-Söllichau. This site was prepared in the years 1976-79, and consisted mainly of 5 large interred bunkers on the same premises, capable of resisting to tactical nuclear blasts, with up-to-date systems for communication, and an ability to replicate war situations, so as to carry out realistic and complicated tactical simulations and drills. The staff was typically of 400.

Similar to the majority of military assets in Germany – and especially within the super-militarized ex-GDR – Kossa was incorporated in the Armed Forces of reunified Germany (1990), but was soon declared surplus, deactivated and handed over for civilian use.

A society of enthusiasts is today running this former facility, keeping it open for visitors on a regular basis. What makes Kossa an exceptional destination for both the general public and the most committed war tourist as well is the great state of conservation of the entire facility. As it can be seen in the following photographs, taken in Summer 2022, inside the bunkers it is possible to see not only the original structure, but most of the original communication systems, paneling, signs, furniture, lamps, toilets, lighting, wallpaper, etc. making the place a very vivid testimony of the Cold War years.

All in all, this is one of the best surviving specimens of bunkerized NVA sites, and definitely worth a visit for a rich in detail full immersion in the military technology and history of the Cold War years.

Sights

A visit to the Kossa site will start walking past the original inner gateway to the bunkerized part of the complex. The original wall going all around the entire military area has been partly removed, allowing to get direct access to the ‘core’ of the installation by car. Traces of the electrified fence running all around this inner part of the complex are still standing. The entrance to a bunker for the guards can be seen in this area, but this cannot be visited.

Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg

The core of the complex with the military bunkers is aligned along a single, mostly straight technical road, built with large concrete slabs. The road track today is the same as in the original pre-WWII complex, and for this reason, it was not camouflaged. Other buildings in the complex, an even the connection roads departing from the main one, are painted in camo coat, for deception in case of overflight by plane or satellite.

The ticket office today is hosted in a large technical building by the entrance. In this area there used to be canteens and other services.

Past the entrance to the bunker area, it is possible to visit five bunkers, which will be listed next.

Computer Bunker

Four out of five bunkers (the exception being the intelligence bunker, see later) are built around the same blueprint. They have a single entrance door, deceived under a small wooden hut. Access to the bunker is via a security and decontamination path. At first you see a big camera at the level of your face, and an intercom panel, all for identification. Next follows a sequence of tight doors, at a close distance from one another, producing three small tight compartments.

Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg

In case of nuclear/chemical contamination, faced in wartime, in the first compartment you could take an anti-poison kit, EP-68. Exemplars of this are still in place. In the next compartment you had to throw away all your clothes and belongings, which were put through a hatch to the side. In a third small compartment, you found a shower – a central passage in the decontamination process, even in case of exposition to nuclear events.

Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg

Through a last tight door, you could finally enter the clean area of the bunker. Here regular toilets and showers can be found, before going down one level, to the technical part.

Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg

Back then, there used to be three levels of air sealing. No air sealing, in regular, no-war/no-drill conditions, meant the decontamination procedure was not activated, and the bunker was ventilated with fresh air. In sealing conditions, typically at war but not under direct attack, the bunker was tight closed, and air was pumped from the outside through huge filtering canisters, purpose designed to stop both smoke and other gases, or poisonous chemicals. On the third level of air sealing, corresponding to an emergency condition (e.g. a direct attack), no air was pumped from the outside, and special filters capturing carbon dioxide allowed to carry on for a limited amount of time – reportedly a shorter time than granted by food or water storage.

Filters for the air conditioning system (sealing level 2) and for adsorbing carbon dioxide (sealing level 3) were made in the USSR. Those for carbon dioxide are scattered around the bunkers, and feature a rather vintage Soviet look, with a prominent five pointed star on top. The label carry the assembly year, in most cases the early 1970s.

Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg

Once downstairs, you can appreciate the construction of the bunker lower level, based on prefabricated concrete frames. The bunkers in Kossa were capable of resisting blasts typically from smaller tactical devices, and were ranked at the fifth strength level (level ‘E’), the first level being the strongest.

Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg

Here a few rooms are still perfectly preserved with computers, of which the most impressive is a mainframe AP-3, working with magnetic tape. The GDR could boast a top-notch electronic industry within the Eastern Bloc, and all consoles and electronics in Kossa bear local labels.

Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg

The purpose of the computers, deemed so relevant to create a bunker specifically for them, was the fast elaboration of all information from the war theater. The latter was both local and global, since thanks to the links reaching the site through the intelligence bunker (see later), information of any kind could be elaborated, allowing the constant updating of operation maps, and the monitoring of all war assets. In drills, the computation capacity of the the system allowed to simulate events, thus forming the core of war-game operations.

Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg

A small part of the same bunker, a kind of mezzanine, was designed as a small hospital – all exhibits are original here as well.

Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg

More items on display in this area include original dosimeters and gear for checking radiation levels – either GDR- or USSR-made. In the connecting corridors are an intercom and an alarm horn – just examples of the perfectly preserved material on display.

Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg

Command Bunker

The command bunker shares the general arrangement with the computer bunker. A full anti-chemical/biological warfare suit is displayed by the entrance, ahead of the decontamination facilities. This type of suit should be worn over regular garments, and made for a very uncomfortable, ultra-warm and suffocating top layer, which reportedly caused extreme sweating.

Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg

The focus here is a control room, with a large table and an operation map, as well as connections through several lines to the relevant information networks. On one side of the control room are desks for telephone operators. On another, watches and chronographs. Also interesting are two TV-scopes, which allowed to plot useful information especially in case of drills.

Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg

Examples of maps for military drills are scattered all around. Since war plans were all variations on the same theme – a quick attack pushing to the west – all corresponding maps feature this type of planned motion, from within the borders of the GDR to the FRG. The name of the drills can be seen clearly stated on the maps – for instance ‘Grenzschicht – 81’ from 1981.

Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg

Other rooms on the underground level feature very interesting examples of machinery for translating information to/from paper maps, even physical 3D maps with elevation!

Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg

Satellite or spy-plane images of the site are on display as well. The site of Kossa was reportedly not far from the southernmost of the three air corridors reaching West-Berlin from the FRG. However, even though the site was not unknown in the West, its purpose remained largely a guess for the duration of the Cold War – and likely so also for the local civilian population.

Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg

Technical Bunker

A major concern in the Cold War was that of the survival of the chain of command in the event of a total nuclear war. This led to the implementation of additional on-site plants, for self-sustained operations in case a nuclear explosion nearby made the area unsuitable for human life, or when links with the surroundings were lost. These plants included primarily power generators, typically large Diesel engines with their fuel tanks, and drinkable water tanks. As seen in the computer bunker, also breathable air was a major concern.

In the technical bunker in Kossa, similar in shape to the previous two, at least two large power generators can still be seen – and smelt… – on the underground level. Several electric parts for replacement are also there. Another room hosts large drinkable water tanks.

Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg

An interesting preserved office for a commanding officer still retains its original GDR wallpaper, and additional comfort is provided by a fake wood pavement.

Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg

Large electric cabinets take a big room, where instrumentation for radiation measurement is on display nearby.

Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg

Other particulars include a dial telephone with a reminder of the quick reaction numbers, including the Volkspolizei – the name of the People’s Police of the GDR, which can be seen on a label!

Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg

Intelligence Bunker

The intelligence bunker is way larger than the others in Kossa, and is also more articulated. Access was possible via two bulky metal gates, located at an underground level on the far ends of the bunker, and reached through truck-sized ramps from ground level.

Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg

Behind the door, a tunnel of prefabricated concrete allowed to store many vehicles – typically trucks, jeeps and trailers, including vehicles with communication functions.

Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg

To the interred back of the tunnel, a human sized hatch gave access to the pressurized, tight area of the bunker. This inner area, completely interred, is surrounded by a concrete case, built by a single pouring to avoid the creation of weak junctions, and such to withstand intense blasts.

Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg

Following a tight compartment, with an array of original air-filtering canisters on display, you get access to a long corridor, providing access to some rooms with technical gears for communication. Here communication with different levels of secrecy were managed, accessing all the existing links implemented in the years of construction within the GDR, and between all Countries of the Warsaw Pact and the USSR.

Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg

A first room is centered on a large console, with an original teleprinting device still in place – top-notch for the time. Still in use today in some businesses, teleprinting is a very reliable way of communicating, which is also less prone to interception than telephone.

Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg

An adjoining room managed contact with three wired systems of communication, working at increasing levels of encryption security, and used for transmitting routine or less-standard orders. These systems included S1 and SAS communication protocols. The corresponding transmitters/receivers – now very rare pieces of machinery – can be seen on display.

Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg

Encrypted incoming messages were sent to a special room, where they were translated in human language, before being internally forwarded to the command bunker. Similarly, encryption facilities were all in another room, where outbound communications were made ready for transmission.

Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg

An impressive technical room is stacked with communication electronics. The number of components is really high, and reflects a very high performance, achieved by means of top level, but relatively bulky, components from the 1970s.

Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg

A room in this bunker is dedicated to the ‘BARS’ system (‘БАРС’ in Russian), a troposphere (i.e. not wired) transmission system within all States in the Warsaw Pact and with the USSR. Beside an indigenous transmission protocol, the system made use of purpose-designed antennas, with easily deployable nodes put on wheeled trucks. An evoking, very interesting map of the fixed nodes of the system, in Russian, can still be seen on a wall. The desks for the operators of the system are just besides.

Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg

Another interesting item is the control panel of a micro-wave antenna, installed in Kossa at a shallow underground level, in an area which can still be located, corresponding to an inexplicable grassy lot along the main road in the site. This antenna system was apparently never used, on grounds of energy consumption and potential damages to other systems in the Kossa site.

Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg

Back outside, close to the intelligence bunker are an original weather station, placed nearby a radiation detection system – looking like a bell bolted to the ground. Examples of connection roads covered in camo paint can be seen in this area. Along the main road of the site, many ramps give access to semi-interred lots, where technical trucks used to be placed for operations.

Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg

An example of these trucks is a Soviet trailer for enemy signal jamming. This is well preserved both inside and outside. The label tells the construction year – 1986.

Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg

Museum Bunker

The last visitable bunker is similar in shape to the former three, and has been converted into a collection of items from the history of the old WASAG site, the NVA bunker and the Cold War.

Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg

Propaganda items from the GDR enrich this interesting collection, as well as rare photographs from the totally gone ‘Beech’ site originally developed in the Third Reich years. Also on display are detailed designs of the weapons produced here in WWII.

Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg
Bunkeranlage Kossa Söllichau – NVA Cold War bunker GDR – Leipzig – Wittenberg

Getting there and Visiting

The Kossa installation can be easily reached by car, roughly 20 miles south of Wittenberg and 30 miles northeast of Leipzig. Exact location here.

The Kossa bunker is professionally managed by a dedicated Society. Their website is here. They speak only German, and the website is in German accordingly. Opening times are published for the season, and are basically in all weekends in the warm season. A synthetic leaflet in English can be obtained. However, the basic notions on this page may also help in getting much of the visit.

Two separate tickets can be purchased, one for a self-guided visit of the computer, technical and museum bunkers, and another for a guided visit of the command and intelligence bunkers. The guided tour is offered only once per day in German, in the early afternoon as of 2022.

A good strategy for a complete visit may be checking in during the morning, visiting the self-guided part, having a packed lunch, and taking the guided tour.

I followed that plan. This meant a stay of roughly five hours. The report on this page was obtained visiting the site together with Dr. Reiner Helling, who offered me a very detailed insight of the Kossa site, before we took the guided tour.

Photography is allowed everywhere. Flash/tripod generally not needed, at least with high-ISO sensors.

Possibly only cash accepted at the ticket counter.

Soviet Airbases in the GDR – First Chapter

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Like other satellite countries in the Soviet empire, the German Democratic Republic – also known as ‘Eastern Germany’ before the Nineties, ‘GDR’, or ‘DDR’ in German – hosted two armies, which not necessarily occupied the same installations, nor had access to the same resources.

Speaking of air forces, up to the dissolution of the GDR after the collapse of the Berlin Wall, there were two distinct bodies operating from airbases all over the country, namely the Air Forces of the National People’s Army (‘Luftstreitkräfte der Nationalen Volksarmee’ in German), which was the national air force, and the Soviet Air Force (‘Voyenno-vozdushnye sily SSSR’ as they would pronounce it in Russia).

While East German military forces were composed of local personnel, Soviet forces were mainly composed of troops coming from the various republics of the Soviet Union. Operations of the two military powers were of course coordinated, but the two organizations were split, and both had their airbases.

Most airbases in the GDR actually developed on the area of former airfields from before WWII, but some peculiarities in the way they were refurbished and equipped after the conflict reflected the needs of the new respective owners.

Signs of this difference can be spotted exploring some of the surviving relics of these now inactive sites – for Soviet bases, writings in Cyrillic alphabet, Lenin’s sculptures like you can find in Moscow, and typically more barracks with more amenities for Soviet soldiers, made to let them have what they needed without passing the gate of the base.

The following photos were taken during visits to four former Soviet airbases, Merseburg, close to Halle, visited August 2015, and other three between Berlin and the Baltic, Wittstock/Dosse, Rechlin/Laerz and Ribnitz/Damgarten, visited April 2016. More airbases are covered in other pages on this website (see this post, and also this). Ribnitz/Damgarten in particular is partly abandoned, while an interesting museum has taken the northwestern part of its premises – the museum is covered in another post.

Navigate this post – Click on links to scroll

Wittstock/Dosse

Getting there and moving around

This site is located halfway between Berlin and Hamburg, just a few miles to the East of highway N.24, close to the junction with N.19 going North to Rostock.

The site can be easily reached by car. You can spot it very well on Google Maps and plan your trip – just search for Wittstock/Dosse. There are actually two airstrips concentrated in a rather small area, placed along an east-west line. The easternmost one is a still active, general aviation grass strip (Berlinchen).

The former Soviet airbase is the one to the west. It has been converted into a solar power plant, like most similar sites in former East Germany. Solar panels occupy the area of the former runway and taxiways, but the hangars and former barracks have not been included in the conversion plan – at least that was the picture in April 2016.

The access road you should go through is the one to the west of the airbase, going straight to the former barracks from road L153. You can park your car immediately after turning away from the L153. Actually there is a ‘no passing’ sign for cars, so you’d better go by foot to avoid misunderstandings. As it’s often the case with airports, be prepared to walk a lot, cause distances are not short.

On the pros side, apart from the grim appearance of the Soviet relics, the area is very peaceful and the countryside is relaxing and nice to see. During my stay lasting a couple of hours, I encountered only a few people out for a stroll in the countryside with their dogs, two technicians with a minivan going to the plant and some folks training their rescue dogs.

Sights

The former installation is totally deserted, and some of the residential, i.e. not technical buildings are really just waiting for the right day to collapse. There are danger signs scattered all over the area. Walking around should already give you an interesting and unusual picture of a ghost base from the Soviet era. I know of people who went inside most of the buildings, exploring them thoroughly. Personally I would recommend to think about it more than once before going in, especially the barracks, where concrete walls look really rotting – don’t forget it was made with Soviet quality… Risk connected with collapsing structures is not a remote issue here.

Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase

In the photos it is possible to see the hangars – very large – some rather old and small shelters, and the barracks. I don’t know the specific history of this airbase – I’m currently trying to find a book on the matter, but it seems out of print and very difficult to find. Anyway, it is apparent that there are at least two groups of barracks built up in very different architectural styles, suggesting the base was built and later developed further. The two-storey buildings in a typical German style were probably built in the early days of the base, possibly before or during WWII. The cubic-shaped, all-concrete residential buildings are in pure functional Soviet style, and may date from the late Fifties or later.

The hangars – as I wrote these are not shelters – are very large and tall, suggesting they were used as maintenance shops. If this was the real role for this base, meaning it was a reference point for many others on the territory, this might justify the uncommon size of the barracks and living quarters.

A building probably used for movable service equipment and vehicles can be spotted among the hangars. It can be distinguished from the buildings connected with sheltering aircraft by the very (very) low ceiling. Interestingly, traces of a translation of the most typical German road signs to Russian can be still spotted on an inner wall, together with other less clear writings – unfortunately I don’t know Russian. The emblem of the Soviet Army (‘CA’) can be spotted on one of the doors of the same building.

Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase

Two pinnacles of the exploration can be found very close to each other. The airbase apparently hosted a rather large indoor ‘sporting club’, with basket courts and other sport equipment. Most of the wooden floor in the gym is still there, with also other remains – including a Soviet newspaper from 1989 with stains of wall paint, probably used when repainting the walls. Curiously, the building hosting the gym is aligned at the level of the hangars, nearby the apron, and not among the barracks.

Moving through a courtyard just outside of the gym, it is possible to spot an incredible statue of Lenin, still perfectly preserved except for the missing face and inscription. Looking better at the statue, it is possible to notice it was placed in the middle of a perspective, leading to the statue from the main road crossing the service area of the base. Nowadays the perspective is less visible, due to newly grown trees.

All in all, the place is pervaded by a grim aura, the almost unreal and unnatural quietness of the buildings and maintenance shops making the site really unique and very evocative.

Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Wittstock Dosse Soviet Airbase

Note

Comparing the satellite photos with those above, it can be clearly seen that almost all trees have been cut and vegetation has been wiped out. The presence of some sorts of roadworks service trailers, even though apparently not recently used, may indicate some work is going on, and maybe there are plans to demolish the remaining buildings soon.

Rechlin/Laerz

Getting there and moving around

This base can be reached driving on road 198, between the villages of Rechlin and Mirow. Rechlin hosts also a museum dedicated to aeronautics which is covered in another chapter. This is indicated with an official sign when you are close to the airport. That museum is not located in the area surrounding the airport. The former airbase can be reached with a pleasant 10 miles drive from Wittstock/Dosse (see previous section).

Rechlin is still operating as an active general aviation airport – with the name Mueritz Airpark – but during my exploration I saw no flying activity. Anyway, no solar cells here.

Compared to other bases, this place is much more populated. To the west of the airfield, accessible from the road running along the western limit of the airfield, it is possible to visit a very small air museum – a different entity from the one in Rechlin. Very few aircraft can be spotted just besides the main building, including a Dassault Atlantique formerly of the GFR (German Federal Republic, or ‘West Germany’) Luftwaffe, a Lufthansa Training Beechcraft King Air and some Soviet or GDR aircraft and helicopters – markings have been removed making identification difficult. There are also some jet engines, and other service material and pods partly of Soviet origin. The visit of this museum may not offer much to the more experienced aircraft enthusiast, but approaching the museum can be done driving on the path of a former taxiway, still retaining its typical Soviet pavement made of concrete slabs.

Luftfahrtmuseum Laerz rlm
Luftfahrtmuseum Laerz rlm
Luftfahrtmuseum Laerz rlm
Luftfahrtmuseum Laerz rlm
Luftfahrtmuseum Laerz rlm
Luftfahrtmuseum Laerz rlm
Luftfahrtmuseum Laerz rlm
Luftfahrtmuseum Laerz rlm
Luftfahrtmuseum Laerz rlm
Luftfahrtmuseum Laerz rlm
Luftfahrtmuseum Laerz rlm
Luftfahrtmuseum Laerz rlm
Luftfahrtmuseum Laerz rlm
Luftfahrtmuseum Laerz rlm

From the area of the museum it is possible to take pictures from the distance of a peculiar installation which at the moment occupies a group of relatively modern aircraft shelters on the northern part of the airfield. The function of this place, which is fenced and cannot be accessed freely, and is named ‘Kulturkosmos’, is not very clear. From the distance it looks like a kind of hippie village or stuff like that. Unfortunately, they occupy a part of the former installation encompassing some pieces of military history and taxiways, which would have been otherwise extremely interesting to explore.

Rechlin Larz Flugplatz Kulturforum
Rechlin Larz Flugplatz Kulturforum
Rechlin Larz Flugplatz Kulturforum
Rechlin Larz Flugplatz Kulturforum

An interesting part of the former military installation in Rechlin is to the south of the runway, and can be approached driving along 198 from Rechlin in the direction of Mirow. After passing the runway – you can clearly spot it to your right, as the road runs along the perimeter of the base in this part – and after passing a crop, it is possible to spot a large unpaved road taking to the right. It is basically the first road to the right after passing the runway, about half a mile from it. There is room for parking at the beginning of the unpaved road. There are no ‘don’t’ signs here, but you might prefer parking here and going by foot as the road is bumpy and there are no other parking places next.

Sights

The road points straight into the base. As usual with airports, expect long walks. After about half a mile, you reach a wreck of a gate, intended to stop larger vehicles, but it can be crossed by foot or bicycle – say a MTB. Already before going through the gate it is possible to see a large and relatively modern aircraft shelter. The size – its height in particular – suggests it was made for larger aircraft – possibly MiG-23/27 – with respect to those of the early jet age, albeit MiG-29 needed yet another size. The gate of the shelter used to be moved with dedicated motors, which are still there but not functioning. Somebody is using this as a hay storage depot.

Rechlin Larz Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Rechlin Larz Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Rechlin Larz Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Rechlin Larz Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Rechlin Larz Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Rechlin Larz Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Rechlin Larz Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Rechlin Larz Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Rechlin Larz Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Rechlin Larz Flugplatz Soviet Airbase

A very mysterious building is located next to this isolated Soviet shelter. It appears as a very large concrete building having collapsed, or more likely blown up. The size and appearance are similar to the partially demolished bunkers you can visit in Hitler’s ‘Wolf’s Lair’ in northern Poland, so I guess this was built during the Nazi era. Furthermore, there are various writings in Cyrillic alphabet on the walls, including years from the age of the Soviet occupation. They are most probably ‘souvenirs’ from Soviet troops. I guess the Nazi or Soviets actually blew up this large building, which was never totally wiped out nor reused.

Rechlin Larz Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Rechlin Larz Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Rechlin Larz Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Rechlin Larz Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Rechlin Larz Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Rechlin Larz Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Rechlin Larz Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Rechlin Larz Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Rechlin Larz Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Rechlin Larz Flugplatz Soviet Airbase

Going further towards the runway – there are no prohibition signs, but I would recommend staying at a respectful distance from the runway, as this is an active GA airport – you come across a small door leading to a subterranean passage. This cannot be explored, as it is full of debris and dirt, but gives you an impression of what was the complexity of this installation. By the way, from, satellite images it is clear it had two crossing runways at some point in its history, so at some point it used to be much larger and prominent than it’s looking today.

Further on, you cross a former taxiway, today covered in dust, where really many couples of rather old Soviet aircraft shelters are still in place. There are herds of grazing cows around, and most shelters are used for storing hay.

Rechlin Larz Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Rechlin Larz Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Rechlin Larz Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Rechlin Larz Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Rechlin Larz Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Rechlin Larz Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Rechlin Larz Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Rechlin Larz Flugplatz Soviet Airbase

Taking to the left (south-west-wards) along this road, between the first and the second shelter on the left, you find a narrow paved road heading South-East. It is marked by a small electric cabin painted in a camo colorway – Soviet – now disconnected. Following this road for more than half a mile – the road bends right at some point – until its end, you pass besides some deserted service buildings, including some garages possibly for service vehicles, and finally you reach a very interesting item.

Rechlin Larz Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Rechlin Larz Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Rechlin Larz Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Rechlin Larz Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Rechlin Larz Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Rechlin Larz Flugplatz Soviet Airbase

From the side it looks mostly like another aircraft shelter, but there is no taxiway and the entrance is very small, and there is a small and bulky security door instead of the usual shelter door. This is actually a former deposit and shelter for weapons, possibly not conventional ordnance to be mounted on aircraft. In front of the weapon bunker there are more service buildings and a truck loading platform, probably used to move ordnance that was transported by road. Similar bunkers can be found only in Finsterwalde and Brand over the territory of the GDR (see here).

This bunker is probably larger than it looks, as vents can be spotted on the ground pretty far from its perimeter.

Rechlin Larz Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Rechlin Larz Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Rechlin Larz Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Rechlin Larz Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Rechlin Larz Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Rechlin Larz Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Rechlin Larz Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Rechlin Larz Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Rechlin Larz Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Rechlin Larz Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Rechlin Larz Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Rechlin Larz Flugplatz Soviet Airbase

All in all, this site is less grim than Wittstock/Dosse, and may be less evocative of the Cold War times, but it is not dangerous at all, and still retains some mystery and has very special items to show. By the way, while walking the southern part of the installation I didn’t meet a person, but came across much wildlife, including deers and birds of prey, much surprised to see somebody around! There are also partly signed trails in the trees, just for ‘normal’ trail hiking. The countryside all around is relaxing and enjoyable.

Note

The area of the former airbase is in the focus of an ambitious design, intended to create luxury living estates in most of the shelters which will be directly accessible with private aircraft, mostly like John Travolta’s house in Anthony, FL. It’s unclear how long the completion of the project will take – no housing had been erected as of May 2016. Nonetheless, some lots have been reportedly sold, and the former airbase may not remain accessible for long.

Ribnitz/Damgarten

Getting there and moving around

This former Soviet airbase, reportedly very active in the last days of the Soviet occupation when Soviet Forces were moving back into the inner Russian territory, was only partially explored during this trip (April 2016). It is located less than 20 miles east of Rostock, close to the coast of the the Baltic Sea. It can be easily reached by car, immediately to the west of the village of Damgarten.

About one third of the runway to the East is covered with solar cells, plus part of the area is used as a storage of road materials or by local farmers. There is also a small museum of technology in one of the former hangars (website here). So there are tons of activities in the area of this former military installation.

The most important thing to know – which actually hampered my plans – is that the main gate of the base, which can be reached following the road signs leading to the museum of technology north of the base, is open to the public only when the museum is open. Needless to say, this was not the case when I visited. Due to the fact that there were workers going in and out at every moment, there were CC cameras, and somebody also photographed my plate with his cell phone while I was taking pictures of the external wall, in order to avoid misunderstandings I renounced to step inside. Hence I couldn’t explore the northernmost part of the complex, which I expected to offer something very similar to Wittstock/Dosse in terms of appearance and significance – large maintainance hangars, former barracks and sculptures with some typical Communist pomp. The large and many buildings and the abandoned railway track leading directly into the base – you can spot it to the right of the main gate – suggest that this installation was probably of some strategic relevance.

Ribnitz Damgarten Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Ribnitz Damgarten Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Ribnitz Damgarten Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Ribnitz Damgarten Flugplatz Soviet Airbase

I tried to approach the site from the North, experiencing a public road made of concrete slabs which was too obviously of Soviet manufacture. To the north, the base is surrounded by a concrete wall. There are some unofficial pedestrian accesses I was tempted to use, but there were signs warning about danger of unexploded ordnance. I thought it was not advisable to explore further.

Then I moved to the south of the airbase, which is basically unguarded and unfenced, to the aim of photographing at least the taxiways and the former control tower. The former south entrance of the base can be conveniently reached by car on a paved road starting from Puttnitz (to the South of Damgarten) leading to an aparted residential area. The road reaches a dead-end by the former entrance to the base – differently from the northern one, it is now totally deserted.

Sights

Walking to the north towards the area of the base from the road leading to the southern gate you cross a small forest and reach the former fence of the base, where barbed wire has been removed and only concrete posts are still standing. From here you can rapidly reach a groups of former service buildings which are numbered and placed on a circle. A paved road can still be seen, even though the area is being vehemently reclaimed by nature.

Ribnitz Damgarten Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Ribnitz Damgarten Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Ribnitz Damgarten Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Ribnitz Damgarten Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Ribnitz Damgarten Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Ribnitz Damgarten Flugplatz Soviet Airbase

These buildings were probably service buildings for vehicles, ordnance or other material. It is unclear why they placed them around a circular track, but I guess this was a typical Soviet construction technique, for I found similar assemblies also in other bases.

From the circle it is already possible to see the taxiways and the area of the runway covered by solar panels. Walking north, it is possible to spot some smaller mystery buildings. Once on the taxiway, you notice the view of the northernmost part of the site is obstructed by a heap of debris, which probably was not there when the base was operative. From this point to the south of the runway, it is possible to spot the former control tower looking north.

Ribnitz Damgarten Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Ribnitz Damgarten Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Ribnitz Damgarten Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Ribnitz Damgarten Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Ribnitz Damgarten Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Ribnitz Damgarten Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Ribnitz Damgarten Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Ribnitz Damgarten Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Ribnitz Damgarten Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Ribnitz Damgarten Flugplatz Soviet Airbase

With a walk to the east along an unpaved trail it is possible to reach a ditch from where you can see some old-fashioned shelters on the northern side of the solar plant.

All in all, this place has much more to offer than what I was allowed to see without disturbing local activities. I kept out of any prohibited area, yet I took care not to be spotted by anybody. I would recommend to try visiting during the opening times of the museum of technology, in order to be allowed in the installation without going undercover. This way you would be granted access to the northernmost part of the complex, which is probably also the most interesting.

Merseburg

Getting there and moving around

This former airbase is still an active airport for general aviation, so access is not totally free, albeit the place is not very active. On the plus side, the formerly interdicted area has been greatly reduced since the conversion to civil airport, and now it is even possible to move with your car on some of the former taxiways once used by aircraft. There are various activities on the field of this airport, including companies offering skydiving experiences and an air museum. There are also various deposits of hay in the former aircraft shelters, and parts of the former free areas of the airport have been reassigned as land for agriculture.

Due to the many activities on the field, arriving with a car is very easy. The airport is located between the small town of Merseburg and less than 3 mi south of the big city of halle, in a very well served area. I arrived from L172, running along the airport to the north, from where you can already spot the shelters. There is a traffic light where L172 turns into a local road, with signs with the name of some companies having their quarters in buildings near the airport, taking to the south of L172.

Soon after turning on this street going south along the eastern border of the airfield (named ‘Fischweg’), it is possible to spot a strange-looking road taking to the right – from the concrete slabs making the pavement, you soon realize it is a former taxiway of a Soviet base. You can drive this road which reaches to the base of skydiving and general aviation activities.

Going back to the ‘Fischweg’ road and going further south, you pass a round about and reach the air museum – which regrettably I couldn’t visit because I was slightly late – with a Tupolev 134 in the colors of the former flagship company of the GDR ‘Interflug’ parked in the courtyard, and visible from the outside.

From nearby the museum it is possible to spot a former taxiway going west. I guess it is not possible to go by car, as it points straight into the base and reaches to the runway. On the other hand, going by foot should not be a problem, but unfortunately there are no old buildings at all to the south of the runway.

In order to get acceptable photos of the more recent shelters, it is advisable to go back to L172, turning south on the 91 crossing the village of Merseburg, and turning west on ‘Geusaer Strasse’, a local paved road going west to some small and aparted residential areas (Geusa and Atzendorf). After about 1.25 miles going west on this ‘Geusaer Strasse’ you reach Geusa and you find a local street called ‘Rohrwisenweg’ taking slightly to the right. After .25 miles you find a narrow paved road to the right going straight north. It is impossible to miss it, as at the beginning there is a large scrap dealer. This road is only for locals and agricultural traffic, there is a conditional ‘no passing’ sign, but I encountered no problems driving all the way to the other end, which is again on the L172 to the north of the airport. You might take the same road directly from the L172 in the opposite direction, but due to the intense local traffic, you have more chance to be noticed ignoring the ‘no passing’ sign taking that road to the south.

This connection road is aligned in a north-south direction and runs along the western border of the airport. From there with an average zoom lens you can take pictures of the more recent aircraft shelters. Getting closer by foot might be possible, but I couldn’t find a good place for parking safely, and you should keep in mind that this is an active airport, so you’d better avoid misunderstandings with the locals.

Sights

As mentioned in the previous instructions, the main attraction is the opportunity to drive on the former Soviet taxiways. I was very worried about having a flat tire, but I noticed there were many cars at the opposite end of the road going to the local GA terminal.

Merseburg Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Merseburg Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Merseburg Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Merseburg Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Merseburg Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Merseburg Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Merseburg Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Merseburg Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Merseburg Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Merseburg Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Merseburg Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Merseburg Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Merseburg Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Merseburg Flugplatz Soviet Airbase

In the old-fashioned aircraft shelters located in this area it is still possible to spot some writings in Cyrillic alphabet. There are also unsheltered parking aprons for single aircraft. You may like to photograph your car in a place where once stood a Soviet MiG-17!

I won’t cover the air museum (website here) as I unfortunately couldn’t step inside, having arrived after last admittance time. In one of the pictures you can see the Tu-134 of ‘Interflug’ mentioned above.

The last photographs show the larger shelters as you can see them from the distance, from the connection road to the west of the airfield. Merseburg hosted MiG-29 in the latest stage of the Cold War, so I guess these shelters were large enough for hosting also that type of aircraft.

Merseburg Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Merseburg Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Merseburg Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Merseburg Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Merseburg Flugplatz Soviet Airbase
Merseburg Flugplatz Soviet Airbase

All in all, this former airbase is not very ‘dark’ nor difficult to visit, on the contrary there are many people and activities around. The countryside is not much interesting, as the area is mostly urban, being in the outskirts of Halle. So, it is not a great place for a relaxing walk. Notwithstanding its original size, the site has less to offer than other Soviet airbases – no barracks or service buildings -, but on the plus side you can move around by car getting pictures of what is still in place without spending much time exploring the site by foot.