Soon after the end of the war Tito and the Communist Party of Yugoslavia started a fight against the Soviet Union to escape Stalin’s direct control – a fight where they succeeded, creating in Yugoslavia a unique, truly communist dictatorship totally under Tito’s power, and not just another soviet satellite country.
To make differences from the USSR more apparent, artistic production, often representing an internationally recognized value for a country on the international stage, needed to part from the rhetoric of socialist realism of Stalin’s years. New, original aesthetics were sought, capable of expressing the modernity of Yugoslavia, while being not free from the control of the State, celebrating and promoting unity in a country which had never enjoyed national unity – something later reflected in the bloody split of the 1990s.
Tito’s aesthetic views for the new post-WWII Yugoslavia are greatly reflected in the project for the realization of an array of hundreds of monuments, to be designed and erected in locations scattered over the whole territory of the former Federal Socialist Republic of Yugoslavia. These monuments go under the name of ‘spomenik’ – an internationally known word in the local idiom, simply translating into ‘monument’.
Most of these spomeniks commemorate some bloody facts of the Second World War – most often a local battle between Yugoslav communist partisans and the German Wehrmacht, or the Italian Army of the ‘Duce’, but also clandestine congresses of local subversive communist groups, mass murders by the Axis invaders, and so on. The realization of the project, sometimes fueled by the local interest to keep the memory of a historical fact of regional relevance, but in any case coordinated by the Communist Party, took a long time span, with most of the monuments designed and built over the 1960s and 1970s, before Marshall Tito died (1980).
Besides the historical significance bound to the events they commemorate, two facts make spomeniks an interesting target for curious travelers. The aesthetics of these monuments is often non banal, showing an attention to details and an artistic sensibility which is not usual to communist-ruled countries. In this sense, spomeniks sometimes stand out as very original, interesting – and pretty massive… – works of art. Secondarily, as the events they commemorate often took place in remote areas, spomeniks can be found in incredible natural spots of the former territory of Yugoslavia, immersed in the wilderness or in the middle of a gorgeous natural scenery, not easy to reach and isolated from civilization.
After the end of communism and following the secession wars of the 1990s in the Balcans, many spomeniks fell into disrepair. Today, some of them have been refurbished, while others have been completely demolished, reflecting a mixed feeling of the local population towards this artistic heritage. A good share of them has been simply left behind, gaining the typical ‘ghost aura’ of the architectures of former communist countries.
For hunters of historical relics, spomeniks are double-attractive – not only are they tangible traces of a bygone communist dictatorship with unique traits, but they stand out for their often severe appearance, like traces of a mysterious alien civilization, now long gone.
This chapter presents a handful of these monuments, which you can find along an ideal itinerary connecting the capital cities of todays republics of Montenegro, Serbia, Bosnia & Hercegovina and North Macedonia. These are just a very small set out of the total, yet some of them are among the most famous and artistically valuable. Furthermore, except those in Croatia and North Macedonia, they can be reached without any substantial detour from the major roads connecting Podgorica, Belgrade and Sarajevo, thus making for an interesting ‘side visit’ on your way from one of these nice cities to the next, on a cultural trip to the area. Similarly, many spomeniks in North Macedonia can be found close to touristic locations. Photographs were taken during two visits, a week-long tour in Spring 2019 (Montenegro, Serbia, Bosnia & Hercegovina) and a long week-end in late Summer 2019 (North Macedonia).
If you are interested in a deeper analysis on the history and art behind spomeniks, or you are looking for a more complete directory of these monuments, please refer to this great resource site.
Map
The following map shows the detailed location of all the spomeniks listed in this post. I personally checked all of them, so the location is very precise. As you will notice, most of them are fairly easily accessible from major or paved roads. Some of them will require a little bit of walking from a parking area to the monument itself.
Navigate this post – click on links to scroll
- Kolašin, Montenegro
- Pavino Polje, Montenegro
- Pljevlja (Fallen Soldiers Monument), Montenegro
- Pljevlja (Tailor Strike Monument), Montenegro
- Pljevlja (Mrzovići), Montenegro
- Berane, Montenegro
- Ostra, Serbia
- Kragujevac, Serbia
- Kosmaj, Serbia
- Avala, Serbia
- Kadinjača, Serbia
- Tjentište, Bosnia & Hercegovina
- Mravinjac, Bosnia & Hercegovina
- Žabljak, Montenegro
- Niksic, Montenegro
- Kapino Polje, Montenegro
- Obadov Brijeg, Montenegro
- Golubovci, Montenegro
- Barutana, Montenegro
- Botun, North Macedonia
- Struga, North Macedonia
- Oteševo, North Macedonia
- Kruševo, North Macedonia
- Sinj (Ruduši), Croatia
- Košute, Croatia
Sights
Kolašin, Montenegro
This spomenik is actually a one-of-a-kind example of ‘spomen-dom’, i.e. a monument not designed just to be admired from the outside, but conceived as a building, to host meetings and services inside. The site is right in the central square of the village of Kolašin, in the southeast of Montenegro not far from the Serbian border. This town has been a vital center of the anti-fascist resistance in WWII, when the territory was first subjugated by the Italians, and later by the Germans.
The spomenik was designed and built under the supervision of the renowned architect Marko Mušič in the early 1970s. Its age is especially reflected in the use of gray concrete for most of the visible structure. The triangular shape dominating the highest part of the building may recall the typical shape of the traditional houses built in the area – chalet-type, with a triangular roof – or even the tops of the Dinaric Alps all around.
Being a building more than a monument, this spomenik is rather big. Today, the village is an active skiing center, thanks to the great position in the mountains. The spomenik is being used for administrative functions, and blends effectively in the central square of the village. Yet its appearance is today so-so, and maintenance is clearly not enough to preserve it for long. As a matter of fact, inspite of the architectural value which gained it a place in books of architecture, a long future for this spomenik is reportedly not assured.
Getting there and moving around
The spomenik is easily reachable right in the city center of Kolasin, a small town with some up-to-date touristic structures for the winter season – the location is really gorgeous. Free parking all around the central square. You can walk around the spomenik without restriction, but stepping inside is possible only compatibly with the local administrative functions.
Pavino Polje, Montenegro
The small commemoration monument in Pavino Polje remembers those fallen in the uprising of Montenegro against the Italian government in the summer of 1941 (typically referred to as ‘the uprising of July 13’). The Italian take-over of the inner region of Montenegro produced a first wave of fighting, culminating in the battle of Pljevlja (December 1941, see here), the major center closest to Pavino Polje.
The monument is rather simple, featuring a small obelisk, cut in the middle and bearing a plaque featuring a child and a woman in a dramatic gesture, and fighting partisans in the background. The small fenced area around the monument is framed by irregular walls with inscriptions and names of victims.
The monument is in a state of neglect, but it is very easy to spot and approach, being located on the main road of the village.
Getting there and moving around
The spomenik is clearly visible on the eastern side of road P10 when crossing the settlement of the Pavino Polje, on the opposite side to an Orthodox church and graveyard. Parking opportunities nearby along the low-traffic road.
Pljevlja, Montenegro – Monument to the Fallen Soldiers
Pljevlja was in the middle of a theater of war from the fall of 1941 into the winter of 1942. Occupied by Italian forces earlier in 1941, the town hosted perhaps the most dramatic actions early December 1941, when an army of several thousand partisans besieged, and for a short while partly took control of, the town. However, after two days of fighting, the Italians managed to expel the attackers, and the partisans had to retreat, leaving almost 500 casualties, roughly half of them fatally shot.
A large monumental area dedicated to the Yugoslavian soldiers fallen in the area was unveiled in 1961, 20 years after the battle, designed by Mirko Đurić and Draga Đurovića (with the painters Aleksandar Prijić and Branko Filo Filipović). The remains of more than 400 soldiers have been interred in a large crypt, forming the base of the monument, and dug close to the top of a hill.
The crypt is adorned with mosaics, it is closed by a railing decorated with red stars, and flanked by a nice war-themed bas-relief. On top of the monument is a tall obelisk, with metal stars – the symbol of post-war Yugoslavia – on top, and more sculptures at the base.
The space above the crypt and around the obelisk is a walk-on terrace. The monument is listed since after the Balkan wars of the 1990s. Somewhat surprisingly however, despite not being in a state of abandonment, it is not treated with much respect and appears to be in a state of partial disrepair.
Getting there and moving around
The monument is sizable and located in a city park, yet it is not easily visible even from nearby, due to the local morphology and the tall trees. Access is however easy from multiple directions, and it is also possible with a car. Parking options right ahead of the crypt or all around the monumental area.
Pljevlja, Montenegro – Monument to the Strike of Tailor Workers
The small monument just north of the football stadium in Pljevlja was erected in 1970 to commemorate the 30th anniversary of the strike of tailor workers of of August 1940. In that occasion, employees of local tailor shops enacted a collective protest, de facto stopping production for one entire month, while asking for better working conditions. Their protest hit the headlines as far as Zagreb, and finally met with success.
The monument, in a nice surrounding (a city park) and close to a popular country restaurant, is inspired by the shape of a tailor’s machine needle. It is in a decent condition, now flanked by the national flag. An inscription can be found on one side, together with a smaller stone with the name of the author, the local artist Mirko-Mario Marjanović.
Getting there and moving around
The monument is very easy to approach. A normal paved road passes just nearby, heading into a park to the north of the stadium in Pljevlje. Parking opportunities for a motorbike right on the spot, a few yards south along the stadium for cars.
Pljevlja (Mrzovići), Montenegro
The monument of Mrzovići, in the countryside about 3 miles south of Pljevlja (see here), is a simple group dedicated to the commemoration of the foundation of the ‘Brigata Garibaldi’ (Garibaldi Brigade), a para-military group formed by Italians, and named after one of the controversial leaders of the military actions leading to the founding of the Italian Kingdom in the 19th century. The Garibaldi Brigade was founded in Mrzovići following the collapse of the fascist government in Rome in July 1943, causing the Italian Army to leave the Axis and join the Allies. This changed course produced a major military reaction by the Germans, who disarmed the former Italian allies and quickly made thousands of prisoners among them, also occupying northern Italy and taking over military operations especially in the Balkans and former Italian dominions.
Specifically, the Garibaldi Brigade was founded in early December 1943 and it was composed originally of 12.000 Italian armed men gathered from the troops stationed in a large region formerly under the control of the Italian Army, in and around Montenegro. The Brigade took the side of the Yugoslavian Liberation Army against the Germans, and saw significant action over the following two years, including the liberation of Pljevlja in November 1944. More than 6.000 men of the ‘Brigata’ were killed in action before the end of WWII.
The monument, designed by Vazilije Knezevic and dedicated in September 1983, rather late compared to other spomenik, is unimposing. Two pillars identify an ideal perspective leading to an angled canopy. Ahead of the canopy, an inscription in double language (Serbian and Italian) remembers the relevant role and sacrifice of the men of the Garibaldi Brigade.
Still in a good shape, the monument blends easily with the panorama around, and makes for a historically interesting short detour.
Getting there and moving around
Easy to reach in the open country about 3 miles south of central Pljevlja, the monument is in the middle of the inconspicuous settlement of Mrzovići (administratively still part of Pljevlja). Parking is possible nearby, very little traffic on the local road. (Note: resist when being tempted by proceeding further south along the same road in case you are heading southeast, a seemingly nice idea put forward by my own nav. After some miles, the road turns into a technical road passing over a dam, permanently closed to non-technical traffic at that level.)
Berane, Montenegro
Possibly one of the most elaborated spomeniks, the monument in Berane was built on the spot of an ancient Turkish fortress, now totally gone, in a secluded location immersed in a forest close to this contended town. In the close vicinity of the spomenik, nine students suspected of being part of the resistance were executed by the Italians in 1941. The town of Berane changed hands several times during WWII, and it is estimated that about 6’000 people were killed in the area in the military and para-military actions over the war years.
The spomenik, designed by the Serbian designer Bogdan Bogdanović, was inaugurated in 1977 on a small grassy field, a really nice spot in the forest. It is mainly composed of a more than 50 ft tall conical dome, with a number of massive dark stone slabs delimiting a regular curved perimeter around it. These slabs are carved with interesting symbolic ideograms, telling – among other things the story – of a local clan.
Today, despite its relative remoteness with respect to the town center, the place is actively maintained, frequented by the locals, and in a definitely good shape. Thanks to the secluded position, as well as to the inscriptions in a fantastic archaic language, this spomenik is very mysterious and particularly fascinating – it resembles a megalithic alignment, or a setting from the Lord of the Rings!
Getting there and moving around
The spomenik in Berane cannot be approached by car directly. You will need to face a steep climb uphill on a well-prepared and maintained trail. A 10 minutes walk uphill is needed for a well-trained person. The location has been used for local concerts and commemorations, and is carefully maintained as a park area.
Ostra, Serbia
This spomenik was built on the site of a battle which took place between opposing factions of locals – some of them collaborating with the Axis forces – in 1943. This was just an episode in the larger confrontation between these groups, taking place in the area of the nearby center of Cacak. Notably, the soviet Red Army contributed to the struggle in the last stages of the Axis occupation period, obviously on the side of the local communist partisans.
The monument, designed by Miodrag Živković and Svetislav Licina, was inaugurated in 1969, and was composed of a concrete slab with an inscription in Cyrillic, and a perspective leading to the focal point of the spomenik – an abstract aluminum sculpture, with a sober appearance, pointing diagonally towards the sky. By looking closely to this monument, you can see stylized human faces in the side of it. The metal sculpture is located on top of a hill, with a very scenic view of the surrounding hills.
Despite the metal sculpture being today still in a fairly good condition, the original appearance of the site has been heavily altered by the building an Orthodox church between the concrete commemorative stone and the prominent sculpture. This happened around 2010. Strangely enough, at the time of my visit the church was not open, with parts of furniture provisionally stored ahead of the main door, giving a bad sense of neglect.
Clearly, a church built right in the middle of the spomenik area means that there is not a particular good feeling about this monument. Also the inscriptions by the entrance of the perspective are largely spoiled, with many letters now missing. Yet somebody put flowers by the metal sculpture, which is not heavily spoiled by writers.
All in all, despite the bad general shape and the strong alteration, the location dominating the area and the imposing, sober appearance of the aluminum part is particularly suggestive, and makes for good photo opportunities.
Getting there and moving around
Accessing this spomenik is rather easy. The road reaching the top of the hill is a local asphalt road, which does not pose any special difficulty. Close to the church there is a small parking area, and the metal monument can be reached from there walking on a flat, open grassy area.
Kragujevac, Serbia
What you can find in Kragujevac is not just one spomenik, but a huge and very nice city park with several monuments scattered around. Construction of this park was started by an official decree back in the early 1950s, on the site of the major massacre of Kragujevac. This bloody episode is one of the worst suffered by the civilian population in occupied Yugoslavia, when by the order of the Nazi governors, more than 2’300 from the local population – selected based on race, political views or religion – were systematically killed in a field. The general governor of Yugoslavia responsible for issuing the order – which can be traced back to the German OKW in Wünsdorf – was later trialled for this in Nürnberg after WWII.
The park is still today very well-kept, interdicted to road traffic and only open for walking. Several spomeniks can be found scattered over the park, together with a museum dedicated to the massacre close to the main road access. One of them, and likely the oldest, is the monument called ‘Pain and Defiance’, dating from 1959.
The most famous, and one of the most internationally well-known, is dedicated to pupils and teachers killed in the massacre. It was designed by architect Miodrag Živković in a distinctive ‘V’-shape, about 25 ft tall and 45 long. Despite looking granite, it is made of almost-white concrete. On the face of the monument, it is possible to spot the shapes of human faces and figures. This monument was inaugurated in late 1963.
Located on a gentle slope on the side of a grassy valley, this spomenik occupies a really nice and quiet spot. The nice and peaceful walk leading to it encourages remembrance.
Getting there and moving around
The park is a very well-kept city park, crossed by a few roads which are interdicted to general traffic – basically no cars can enter, I guess these roads can be accessed by car only on special commemorations or similar occasions. Parking is easy close to the museum – itself a rather distinctive construction. A big map of the site can be found on a post close to the parking area (see pics above), and several signs allow you to tour the park, meeting the many monuments according to your interests. Reaching the ‘V’-shaped monument from the main access involves a 10-15 minutes walk along a perfectly prepared road.
Kosmaj, Serbia
Possibly one of the most iconic of all spomeniks, the Kosmaj monument is located on top of a hill, and partly visible from quite a distance, emerging from the treetops. The location was chosen as the foundation site of the Kosmaj partisan detachment, who contributed substantially to the resistance efforts against German occupation forces, with thousands effectives killed or wounded.
The monument was designed by sculptor Vojin Stojić, and unveiled in 1971.
The sinister shape of this monument, looking like an alien creature landed on top of the hill, on an isolated spot far from civilization, may strongly appeal to hunters of weird places. What further adds to the ‘mystery aura’ of the place is the fact that, while generally not in a bad shape and far from rotting, the monument appears somewhat forgotten – far from everything, little maintained or looked after.
Another impressive feature which is rarely captured by photographs, is that this object is about 90 ft tall! Access is via a poorly maintained stair, or by a little longer access walkway. Getting closer, you have a clearer impression of its gigantic size. The five concrete pinnacles composing the monument and making for a spiky whole from the distance, are actually separated from each other. The monument appears to change shape continuously as you walk around and under it, making it very interesting to watch from different angles.
Considering the remote, silent location, the late evening time of my visit, and the wind blowing in the trees, this was possible the most mysterious and magnetic of the spomeniks I could see on this trip!
Getting there and moving around
Due to its size and prominence, the Kosmaj spomenik was conceived as the focal point of an area for war commemorations, as well as for more widely themed social events. The area on top of the hill comprises a football field, a playground and parking areas. All this today is far less used than in the communist era, and its ‘ghost appearance’ adds greatly to the mystery aura of the place. The spomenik can be accessed along a one-way loop road, going around the top of the hill. Today you can freely get access to this road and get very close to the spomenik with your car. The monument can be finally reached via a poorly maintained, short concrete staircase, or via a longer walkway. I would say access is of course very easy. The location is also reasonably close to Belgrade, with a modern highway connecting the area with the Serbian capital city.
Avala, Serbia
This monument stands out of the crowd of the Yugoslavian spomeniks for it is not built to commemorate an event of WWII, but instead it remembers the fatal crash of a passenger flight, which occurred in approach to Belgrade. The year was 1964, and the flight was carrying 22 Soviet war veterans, who had participated in the ‘Liberation war’ of Yugoslavia against the Germans, from Moscow to a commemoration ceremony to be held the following day. The cause of the accident was never clearly determined, but it was likely due to a technical mishap.
The bronze spomenik you can see today was designed by sculptor Jovan Kratohvil on the very location of the crash, and inaugurated in 1965 on the first anniversary of the fatal accident. The names of the war veterans who perished are recorded on a stone.
This monument is more modest in size than most famous spomeniks, and the good quality of materials, its proportion and the great view over the hills leading to Belgrade – the famous Avala tower, with its famous panoramic deck, is less than a mile from here – make for a very nice and scenic ensemble. Furthermore, the mint state of conservation is really noteworthy.
Getting there and moving around
This spomenik can be reached along the same loop road going to the Avala WWI memorial and to the Avala tower with its panoramic view. There is a small parking nearby, and access is via a short staircase which is already part of the monument. The monument is well cared for, and the area is rather busy with local and international tourists.
Kadinjača, Serbia
The scenic spot where this extensive monumental ensemble has been arranged was the setting of one of the first battles between the partisan army – a group called the ‘Workers’ Battalion’ – and the German Wehrmacht. The latter was trying to reach the town of Užice, giving shelter to the top ranking staff of the Liberation army, including Marshal Tito. The battle was finally lost by the partisans in 1941, but they allowed the local population and the partisan commanders to flee the area, before the Germans troops poured in.
The area of the final fight was selected for a national monument as soon as 1952. A plain obelisk was put in place. Years later, in 1979, a huge monument designed by Miodrag Živković was unveiled at the presence of Tito, with a huge crowd attending.
The plan of the monument has its focus in the old prismatic monument of 1952. Around it, an interesting ensemble was added in 1979, with an amphitheater on one side, and two sets of granite and concrete abstract sculptures on the other.
A first group of sculptures, with very stylized human faces emerging from the sides and on top of the stones, constitute a first circle.
A second group is made of massive white slabs, culminating in one loosely resembling an armor pierced by a bullet. The installation is about 300 ft long, and the ‘pierced armor’ piece is about 45 ft tall. Yet the group is well proportioned and blends perfectly in the panorama around it.
The great state of conservation is testified by a modern multi-language placard with explanations about the history of the place. The spomenik is complemented by a museum and by a few weapons permanently displayed outside – themselves a memorial of the battle fought in the area.
This is a popular tourist destination, on the road going to nearby Visegrad (in Bosnia & Hercegovina), with its famous ancient Ottoman bridge.
Getting there and moving around
This spomenik is difficult to miss, visible from quite afar and perfectly accessible from a major road. Extensive parking ahead of the museum. Walking around does not pose any particular difficulty.
Tjentište, Bosnia & Hercegovina
Really an iconic masterpiece in the panorama of Yugoslav spomeniks, the monument in Tjentište benefits also from the fantastic location in the mountain range marking the border between Bosnia & Hercegovina and the republic of Montenegro. The proportions of the scenic views of this mountainous area are really more typical to the Americas than Europe!
This famous ‘winged’ monument is located on the area of a bloody battle fought in spring 1943, when the Axis force attacked some partisan groups commanded directly by Marshal Tito, in a deliberate attempt to kill their commander, hoping that in so doing they would succeed in undermining the rebel force. In the ensuing battle of Sutjeska around 7’000 besieged partisans were killed, but Tito finally was able to escape the area.
This battle acquired a special, almost mythological meaning in the history of communist Yugoslavia. A first commemoration stone – actually a mass grave for some thousands partisans – was put in place already in 1958, whereas the huge spomenik you see today, designed by Miodrag Živković, was unveiled in 1971 at the presence of Tito, who reportedly put much personal attention on the realization of this very monument.
The two massive concrete wings are enriched by human faces, only sketched and arranged so to form the roots of the wings themselves. Looking closely, you realize that the two monoliths are different from one another. Furthermore, their irregular, strongly 3D shape makes them look different depending on the point of view.
The monument is located half way on an ascending slope. Going further uphill you meet a termination point of the perspective, where the names of several partisan brigades are recorded. Looking down to the wings, you see them taking yet another shape!
This monument blends really well with the majestic scenery around. While being a sober and proportioned work of art, it is at the same time massive and sinister. The ensemble is really an artistic masterpiece, yet it bears some authentic ‘Yugoslav-communist style’ marker, making it a somewhat paradoxical ‘official communist ghost’!
On the side of the perspective leading to the winged monument, there is another spomenik – actually a ‘spomen-dom’ – which is known for hosting commemoration inscriptions and rare war-themed artistic frescoes, which were unfortunately damaged in the 1990s wars.
While in the years of Tito this was one of the most visited national monuments in the Country, its fame went down dramatically with the end of communism and with the following wars of secession, which struck heavily in this uninhabited valley reaching to ill-fated Sarajevo. With this in mind, the main perspective and the winged monument are surprisingly well kept, and they are gaining further popularity among relic-hunters, thanks to the undeniable charm of this spomenik. There are reportedly several other less prominent spomeniks in the area of the 1943 battle, including the ‘spomen-dom’, but unfortunately I had not the chance to investigate further about their state of conservation.
Getting and there and moving around
Getting there is possible along a national road going from Sarajevo to central Montenegro. Free parking is available at the base of the perspective leading to the winged monument. Getting closer to the latter involves climbing a flight of stairs. To get to the far end of the perspective you will need to climb another conspicuous flight of stairs. The winged spomenik is very well kept, and the area is really scenic – today it is a national park -, really justifying a detour from Sarajevo, or choosing this road to go to Montenegro from the Bosnian capital city.
Mravinjac, Bosnia & Hercegovina
Unlike most others on this page, the site in Mravinjac is an example of a typical form of paying tribute to Marshal Tito which flourished soon after his passing in 1980.
In Mravinjac, a giant ‘TITO’ writing can be seen from a distance, on the side slope of a mountain in the valley of the river Drina. The letters, framed with stones in the grass, are topped by a communist red star, once on the flag of Yugoslavia. Notably, the small planted pine forest above the writing is made of 88 trees, that being the age of Tito when he passed away.
The number of surviving such ‘homages’ to Tito’s personality has strongly shrunk over the years. However, the one in Mravinjac is apparently being maintained actively.
Getting there and moving around
The monument is perfectly visible when approaching the village of Mravinjac along the M20 from southwest.
Žabljak, Montenegro
The nice monument designed by Branko Bon in Žabljak commemorates the victims of fascism. It was unveiled on November 29, 1963 on the Yugoslavian National Day, and it stands immediately besides the town cemetery of this primary leisure center of Montenegro, in the vicinity of the Durmitor National Park.
The main item in the monument is a bulky building in a shape inspired by that of the old-fashioned huts of Montenegro shepherds (‘katun’).
The only side access to the building allows to access a crypt, with a bas-relief to the far end, a simple mosaic ceiling, and on the side walls the names of some thousands people, war victims killed in the years of Italian-then-German occupation during WWII. Outside the building, busts of prominent personalities in the local politics circle the monument all around.
The monument takes a vantage position and is immersed in a stunning mountainous panorama. The state of conservation is excellent. The monument is an official commemoration place, and clearly cared for.
Getting there and moving around
The location is central in the tourist town of Žabljak. A large parking built for the graveyard gives direct access to the spomenik as well, making access extremely easy.
Niksic, Montenegro
The major spomenik in Niksic is an interesting design by Ljubo Vojvodic, which interestingly dates from a very late era in the timeline of communist Yugoslavia. It was unveiled only in 1987, in the anniversary of the liberation of the town from by-then-collapsed Italian fascist rule on September 18th, 1943. The location chosen for this massive monument is where the execution of 32 partisans took place in 1942. The monument however serves as a commemoration of more than 1,500 partisans killed in the area of Niksic in WWII.
The monument, largely made of concrete, features a prominent high-rising pillar and a broad disc with interesting abstract symbols. The pattern of a five-pointed star, a symbol of communist Yugoslavia, can be recognized in the arrangement of many signs on the disc.
Seen from aside, the pillar reveals a shape loosely resembling that of a bird unfolding its wings. The names of those killed on this spot are carved in stones around the base.
The place is not abandoned, yet not particularly cared for. However, it is still reportedly employed as a gathering for official ceremonies.
Getting there and moving around
A very convenient, apparently new parking area can be accessed from Trebjeska road. The parking serves also the new cemetery to the east. The spomenik is clearly visible from the road as well. Access to the monument is easy and unobstructed, a few yards northeast of the parking.
Kapino Polje, Montenegro
This small spomenik was unveiled in 1971, on the location of the shooting of 25 partisans in June 1943. The design by Slobodan Vukajlović features five white pillars which merge and unite on top, resembling the shape of a torch.
The monument can be accessed by a short flight of stairs on top of a low-rising mound. The location of the monument is close by the local airport, and next to active military installations. It is not neglected, and clearly visible from the aside in a quiet green area.
Getting there and moving around
The spomenik can be spotted easily north of M7 when approaching the airport from downtown Niksic. As soon as you see a Sptifire in the middle of a round-about, you can as well note the spomenik to the north. There is apparently no dedicated parking, but the local roads around the monument offer many parking opportunities.
Obadov Brijeg, Montenegro
This spomenik is an example of smaller designs, which constitute the majority of these monuments around former Yugoslavia.
The ‘bird-like’ monument in Obadov Brijeg, not far from the famous Orthodox monastery of Ostrog – built in the side of a mountain ridge nearby -, commemorates the victorious fight against the retreating Germans in fall 1944 of a coordinated force of local partisans troops, British artillery and Allied aircraft.
The spomenik was designed by the renowned architect Slobodan Vukajlović, and unveiled in 1974.
Unfortunately, as of today, this small monument appears little respected – mostly used as a roadside dump by travelers.
Getting there and moving around
Totally easy to reach if you are traveling north on the M18 road. The site is immediately visible when passing by, it is easily accessible thanks to a small rest area nearby, but unfortunately not well maintained and even dangerous to come close to, due to the garbage around it.
Golubovci, Montenegro
This monument by the local architect Vukota Tupa Vukotic was erected in 1974 close to the airport of Podgorica, the capital city of Montenegro, which received the name of Titograd in the years of communist Yugoslavia. This happened in recognition of its sacrificial role in the years of WWII, when after the Germans took over control of the area conquered by Italians, following the end of fascism in Italy in 1943, the city was stricken by heavy Allied aerial bombing, causing its almost complete destruction.
Podgorica was strategically located along a communication route going to the occupied territories of Albania and Greece, and for this reason the German Army was particularly present in the area – thanks to the airbase already in place in WWII. As a result, attrition with local partisans caused further casualties.
The monument commemorates the action of the partisans in the area. The abstract sculpture is sober and well proportioned. Besides the focal point – the sickle-shaped object in the middle of the construction – there are metal panels with a more traditional iconography, portraying battle scenes, as well as writings and tombstone-like stone panels.
The ensemble is located in residential area very close to the airport, and is actively maintained, so it has a sober, not derelict aspect.
Getting there and moving around
Very easy to reach along a major local road on the western side of the airport. Parking nearby is easy, and there are no major obstacles impeding access. The monument is well-kept and cared after.
Barutana, Montenegro
This spomenik honors the many losses experienced by the population from the area west of Podgorica in the Balcan wars, WWI and WWII. Three distinct monuments based on the same design are located on the side of an ascending path, leading to a double terrace on top of the monument.
Half of the double terrace features a full-scale amphitheater, with small granite seats forming a nice ensemble. The focal point of the double terrace is a torch-like sculpture about 30 ft tall, made of several separated adjoining components.
Between the torch-shaped sculpture and the amphitheater there is a stage. The object was created for meeting purposes, especially for schools but more generally for social events. Traces of the lighting for night performance can be still be seen.
This nice ensemble was completed in 1980 after a five-years-long construction work. The design is due to the local architect Svetlana Kana Radević.
Unfortunately, the place is not maintained any more, and while still in a relatively good shape – sufficiently far from downtown Podgorica to be spared misuse and vandalism – it is apparently falling into oblivion. This adds to the ‘communist ghost’ aura of the place, which you can perceive also in plain sunlight!
Getting there and moving around
This spomenik can be spotted from the road going from Podgorica to the coast. It is located immediately on the side of the road, but the only feature you see when driving by is the torch-like monument – vegetation is hiding the base of the monument. There are three small access roads, and once there you find a large parking area. The monument is not degraded – no garbage around – but it is clearly in need of restoration works. The stairway gently ascending to the top terraces are consumed and will be soon unserviceable.
Botun, North Macedonia
The Botun monument commemorates the struggle of the local partisans from all over the area, known as Debarca. This is located northeast of Ohrid, a very nice touristic town on the coast of a beautiful lake, close to the border with the Republic of Albania. The combatants from this area managed to liberate the area from the Italian-backed occupying forces in Spring 1943, well before Italy surrendered to the Allies in 1943. The Wehrmacht then retook control of the region until 1944, when communist partisans finally repelled the Germans.
This rather unique episode is celebrated through a rather simple monument, apparently composed by two stone wings or flames, surrounding a central body bearing a commemorative inscription.
Unfortunately, the monument is in complete disrepair, the pavement basically disintegrating due to poor maintenance.
The overgrown vegetation hides luckily hides small deposits of garbage. Yet the location in the deep of a wild valley makes it potentially interesting as a stop along a major road.
Getting there and moving around
The Botun monument is easily reached along the E65, connecting Ohrid Airport to the north and Skopje. It is immediately on the side of the road, easier to access when driving south. There is small parking space at the level of the road where the small access roads depart to the monument apron. The site is not maintained, but not difficult to access or tour either.
Struga, North Macedonia
The spomenik in the town of Struga, on Ohrid Lake, designed by Vojislav Vasiljević, was delivered in 1974. It commemorates the more than 300 casualties in the Macedonian ranks from the Struga area during WWII. The area fell under control of the Italian-backed kingdom of Albania until mid-1943, when after a short independence it was occupied by the Germans.
The monument is rather simple, but differently from the majority of spomeniks it is located right in the city center. The composition, made of a small mound with access stairs and a white spike on top of it, is rather difficult to miss.
On one side of the monument, abstract in nature, a rather kitschy representation of an infantry charge has been added possibly in a later stage.
There is also a side commemoration panel with writings in Cyrillic. The monument has been reportedly refurbished in 2019, and its appearance is consequently good (apart from small vandal printing on the sides you can see in the pictures).
Getting there and moving around
Reaching the monument is possible by foot. It is located in the middle of the town, on Marshal Tito square. You may leave your car in one of the many parking areas around central Struga and walk along the river to get to the monument.
Oteševo, North Macedonia
Little is known of this monument, unveiled in 1973 on the side of a hill overlooking Prespansko Lake, on the border between North Macedonia, Albania and Greece. The architects are Jordan Grabul and Boro Josifovski.
The area appears to be a former touristic location for lakeshore activities. Today it is still very nice from a natural standpoint, yet the touristic centers – hotels, camping area, … – from the communist era are now closed, and make for a mysterious setting.
The spomenik resembles a flame, put on top of a stone stair. You can see an original inscription, as well as a star decoration in the base of the flame. On one side you can still find a flagpole.
The monument is in a so-so condition. It is sufficiently far from the road to having been spared major vandalism. The staircase is in a relatively good condition, and vegetation is not excessively overgrown. On the other hand, it is apparently not of great interest for the local population, which do not advertise it at all.
Getting there and moving around
The monument can be reached very easily from the road R1307 in Oteševo. The village is rather unapparent, and the monument is shrouded in the vegetation. You may notice the stair access from the road. Parking at the base of the stairs is difficult, but you may find a parking place ahead of the gate of the nearby camping site – as of 2019, apparently largely abandoned.
Kruševo, North Macedonia
This spomenik is possibly one of the best known in and outside of former Yugoslavia. This is somewhat paradoxical, as the monument came out with significant delay and after much controversy. On the other hand, maybe its fortune especially after the end of communism is partly due to its dedication – it was built to celebrate a huge uprising of the local population against the Turks in 1903, led by a local school teacher named Nikola Karev, settled in blood by an entire army of the Ottoman empire.
The lack of an immediate link to WWII events and communist-led struggles generated some criticism, but this actually came after some years were spent trying to find a compromise concerning the design itself. The architects, Jordan and Iskra Grabul, despite a proven communist faith, had a very hard time with the state commission who had issued the design.
The monument was finally unveiled in 1974, on a hill just out of the Krusevo village. It is composed of a gently ascending access road, with small monuments resembling broken chains. A first stop along the access road is a kind of open air crypt, with protruding cylinders bearing the names of places and people linked to resistance actions in the history of Macedonia. Apparently, no one from WWII years is included.
At the end of the road, on top of the hill, you can find a small open-air theater surrounded by curved walls decorated with colored tiles and sculptures.
The axis of the theater is aligned with the main body of the monument, a very peculiar construction, roughly spherical, with many tubular protrusions pointing radially from the surface. Whatever the intended meaning, it looks like a virus or something else from a biology book. Access to the sphere is through an inclined footbridge leading to a door.
During my visit, the door was unfortunately locked closed. Inside you can find the grave of Nikola Karev, as well as interesting wall reliefs.
Another interesting feature are the four stained glass windows. Colored with different palettes, the light produces nice reflections inside the spomenik. Luckily, something can be seen also from the outside in a sunny day.
One of the most celebrated spomeniks – even portrayed on local currency notes and recently photographed in international reviews – this item is maintained in perfect conditions as a national shrine, and social events like music festivals are held on its premises.
Getting there and moving around
Accessing this spomenik, aka ‘Macedonium’ is easy to the far end of the village of Krusevo. Thanks to its official role, it boasts a large parking ahead of the access road, with some explanations on dedicated panels. Beware of a big museum just on the other side of the parking – it is dedicated to a local music star prematurely died in an accident, it is not linked to the spomenik.
Sinj, Croatia
The monument in the outskirts of the small town of Sinj, roughly 30 minutes inland when driving from the major port town of Split, was dedicated in 1962, to honor and remember a group of early partisans captured and executed by the Italian government in August 1941. This tragic episode followed a failed attempt by newly formed partisan groups to reach the mountainous region in the back-country, meeting there others formed elsewhere, thus potentially setting up a resistance movement against Italy. The latter had recently annexed a big part of the coastal territory of the Kingdom of Yugoslavia, which had ceased to exist in the spring of 1941.
The monument, secluded and not visible from the town road passing nearby, is well cared for, and relatively simple in shape. It is made of a canopy composed of three triangles meeting in the middle. Under the canopy is a massive tomb stone, carved from the pale local rock, bearing the inscription of the names of those killed – more than 20 people, part of the 1st Split Partisan detachment.
The silent, pleasant natural background, the narrow access road for pedestrians, with a bridge over a local creek, all make for a tranquil and thought-provoking short detour. The monument was designed by artist Vuko Bombardelli, who also designed the monument in Košute, related to the same fragment of war history.
Getting there and moving around
Very easy to reach on the western border of Sinj (local road Put Ruduše), a small unpaved parking area can be found ahead of the access to the short uphill path (unpaved and with stairs) leading to the monument. As noted, this location is actively maintained, and apparently commemoration ceremonies still take place there.
Košute, Croatia
The spomenik of Košute, designed by the artist Vuko Bombardelli from nearby Split, was originally dedicated in August 1961, to commemorate the fighting between the Italian Army and the 1st Split Partisan detachment taking place there exactly 20 years earlier. Outnumbered and lacking local support, the partisans had to flee, leaving casualties and prisoners behind. More than 20 prisoners were executed in nearby Sinj. Interestingly, the monument there was by the same artist and was unveiled only the following year.
A peculiarity of the spomenik in Košute is that it was damaged on purpose during the Balkan wars. This happened in largely undisclosed circumstances in 1992, when the monument was blown up with explosives, and inscriptions largely damaged, presumably by the local Croatian militia. However, after years of general disrepair, the monument has been returned to its commemorative function, and albeit only basically cleaned it is again treated with respect – including the installation of a tall Croatian national flag.
The design was originally mostly vertical, with a base made of three massive concrete spikes planted in the rocky ground, supporting a fourth one pointing to the sky. Today, all four spikes lie horizontally, but they are still linked by the metal rods emerging from the concrete. Inscriptions, significantly damaged, surround the rock at the base of the monument.
Located on top of a hill planted with low-rising vegetation, the monument is in a vantage position for getting a 360-degrees panorama of the region.
Getting there and moving around
The monument can be reached only through an uphill climb on an unpaved road. The trail is not difficult nor excessively steep (a shorter route is possible, apparently steeper, I did not test it myself). I could not find a specific parking place, yet there are parking opportunities on the local roads of the village of Košute. Please refer to the map for a starting point and map of the suggested trail climbing to the top.