The small island of Bornholm is today a popular destination for vacation time. Especially in the summer, the small and picturesque towns along the coast, as well as the curvy roads unwinding over the gentle slopes in the countryside, become increasingly crowded with cars, motorbikes, campers and bicycles – however, without reaching the point where a tourist who is looking for relaxation may feel uncomfortable.
The quiet and relaxed aura of this enjoyable piece of land, halfway between the German-Polish coast and that of Sweden – and nonetheless part of Denmark – hides a history pointed of battles and turmoil, lasting from the early era of the vikings until the Cold War.
Quick historical facts
Between the medieval times and the 17th century, the island was often seized by the Hanseatic League, binding together coastal towns in the Baltic and protecting trading routes. During the 17th century, Sweden became a major player in the area, and wars between Denmark and Sweden meant the island changing landlord more than once, with the locals always playing militarily in favor of a union with Denmark, to an extent made possible by their own forces, yet meeting with final success.
A largely forgotten war between Britain and Denmark, taking place in the years of total confusion brought about by Napoleon’s endeavors all over Europe, meant that Bornholm was attacked by the British fleet in more instance between 1808 and 1810, basically without any success.
World War II
The invasion of Denmark by the Third Reich and the capitulation of the Danish government, militarily unable to counter the irresistible march of Hitler’s military forces in April 1940, resulted in Bornholm being occupied by the Germans. The local Danish commander annotated the order not to resist the German take-over with disappointment, feeling that a firmer military response to the invaders was indeed possible. The island was fairly well organized and armed against an air-launched invasion.
The capitulation of Denmark without engaging in a military struggle allowed to obtain less harsh conditions from the occupants, including a limited independent military activity for the first years of WWII. However, a strong anti-German feeling fueled the growth of a resistance movement, including locally in Bornholm.
Similar to what happened to the Danish mainland (see this post), the military planners of the Third Reich included Bornholm in the coastal defense structure on the outer border of the newly acquired German territory – the so-called Atlantic Wall. In particular, construction of a fortress for four 38 cm cannons started on the south-eastern corner of the island, in Dueodde (similar to that in Hanstholm, Denmark, of Vara, Norway). The very efficient Organisation Todt had the first two emplacement largely complete by April 1941. By the attack on the Soviet Union in June 1941 however, and with the rapid expansion of the Third Reich to the east, the fortress in Dueodde was deemed of little use. In the event, construction works never reached completion.
Further significant war-related construction projects on Bornholm included observation posts and several radar stations (Würzburg and Freya types), which could profit from the location of the island on the route taken by bomber groups on their way back to Britain from raids over Berlin or the surrounding region. The proximity with respect to the facility for the development of experimental weapons at Peenemünde (see here) made of Borhnolm a natural place for the installation of measuring equipment. Furthermore, the main coastal town of Rønne – still today the largest center of the island, where most of the commercial and ferry sea traffic goes through – was largely employed as a base for the Kriegsmarine. Actually, more than 600 different German submarine units called this port during the war years, about one half of the entire German submarine fleet!
Diplomatic relations between the Third Reich and Denmark deteriorated rapidly in August 1943, when the Germans – now at a turning point of the war – launched operation Safari, trying to capture all assets of whatever military value from Denmark, thus also destroying its military capability. As a response, Denmark scuttled 32 of its own vessels, and sent a handful to Swedish or to even more distant friendly ports. In Borhnolm all Danish troops were disarmed and taken away from the island.
Somewhat paradoxically, the most tragic events of the war struck Borhnolm at the very end, when the island found itself off the coast of Poland, now taken over by the Soviet Red Army advancing from the east towards Berlin (see this post). As the fear of defeat and imprisonment grew among the ranks of Third Reich forces, following the heavy losses on the eastern front in Spring 1945, many German troops reached Bornholm to prepare for an escape further west, or north to neutral Sweden. This presence was noticed by Soviet intelligence, who intercepted communications mentioning several thousands of German military troops on the island – their actual number has been estimated at around 20’000 by May 1945. The war officially ended in Denmark on May 5th, 1945. However, at that time the chain of command and the communication system in the Third Reich had collapsed, and the local German commanders on Bornholm still retained the order to repel the Soviets with any possible means, without permission to surrender. As a result, the Soviets bombed the island twice, severely damaging Rønne and the port town of Nexø, unharmed up to that point, on May 7th and 8th, 1945.
Soviet Occupation
Following the two Soviet bombing raids, a group of six Soviet torpedo boats sailed from Kolberg, Poland (now Kolobrzeg, see this post), landed and reclaimed control of the island of Bornholm on April 9th, 1945. At that time, about 16’000 German troops and refugees were still on the island, trying to flee to the West or to Sweden by any possible means. Reportedly 700 boats of any kind were involved in this desperate evacuation operation, and about 5’000 Germans (military and civilian) had fled by sea just the day before the Soviet landing.
The anti-German resistance movement on Bornholm joined forces with the Soviets, trying to search for trapped German troops and prevent their escape to the West. The airfield in Rønne was captured on May 9th in one of these joint actions – specifically stopping a German aircraft already taxiing for take-off, after some others had already successfully got airborne! These operations went on until May 20th, and due to the very significant number of German troops still on site, they required drafting people in the Soviet-backed group of ‘freedom fighters’, which afterwards remained the only official local para-military group on the island, besides the Red Army (conversely, members of the the original voluntary resistance movement soon returned to their pre-war civilian occupation).
The Soviet presence on Bornholm constituted a potentially explosive problem. The agreement at Yalta between the US, Britain and the USSR in February 1945, months before the actual capitulation of the Third Reich, had defined that Denmark would remain independent, and specifically not within the Soviet-controlled territories in Europe. The British government, at that time still led by Churchill, was extremely worried by the Soviet capture of Bornholm, and after unofficially questioning the Soviets, the answer was even more appalling – according to Soviet diplomats, the island had to stay under Soviet control indefinitely, through the support of a military contingent of 9’000, soon to reach those already on site!
This led to the beginning of a peculiar page in the history of Bornholm, and of the diplomatic relations between the USSR and the West, which would soon get worse on a global scale, leading to the Cold War. Relations between the local Danish government and the Soviets were generally good at an official level, thanks to the skills of the local leading figure on the Danish side, von Stemann. To keep the public eye on this unsolved issue, he managed to organize an official visit of the Crown Princess of Denmark, who met the Soviet top staff on Bornholm. The day-by-day coexistence with the Soviets was less idyllic, with increasing incidents due to the misconduct of the bored Soviet troops stationed on the island, and the growing discontent among the locals. Uncertainty about Soviet plans fostered fear over a possible long-term occupation.
Finally in December 1945, Britain officially questioned the Soviet government about the case of Bornholm, and Molotov answered that the Soviet Union did not intend to have any permanent base in Denmark (as per the Yalta accords), yet the island was to be retained by the USSR as a guarantee, due to the presence of British troops on the Danish mainland.
The Danish government reacted preparing to retake full control of its own territory, correspondingly asking all foreign troops – from any nation – out of its borders. In March 1946 it was announced that the Soviet troops would leave the island of Bornholm, as Denmark prepared to install its own military forces back on it. In good order, the Soviets actually left the island, the last ship departing Rønne on April 5th, 1946.
The Cold War
Denmark joined NATO as a founding member in 1949, the result of the action of the then prime minister Hans Hedtoft, a former member of the resistance in Denmark, who had got a clear insight of the line of action followed by the Soviet Union, at that time still led by Stalin.
The support given by Denmark to NATO was not obvious for that country, since the proximity to the Eastern Bloc – especially Bornholm, geographically located close to the (by then) Soviet-controlled Polish coast – made Denmark extremely vulnerable and militarily untenable in case of a potential Soviet attack. The policy adopted by the Danish government over the decades of the Cold War in support of NATO was sincere but always carefully calibrated, to reduce the risk of Soviet intervention, which would possibly result in an extremely dangerous escalation.
Consequently, no international NATO base nor any nuclear warhead was ever permanently based in Denmark. Yet highly defended coastal strongholds were established, which can still be seen today (see this post).
Bornholm hit the headlines in the early phase of the Cold War, when the first-ever jet-propelled fighter from beyond the Iron Curtain defected to the West. This happened on March 5th, 1953, the very same day of Stalin’s death. The Polish pilot, 21 years old Franciszek Jarecki, had departed Slupsk airbase in northern Poland on a training mission, when he suddenly left his group and flew as fast and low as he could to Rønne, where he safely landed his aircraft, asking for asylum. The aircraft was a MiG-15, and that was the first time this new type of aircraft, which played havoc against propeller-driven machines in the early phase of the Korean War, could be inspected by Western powers.
The case was treated very carefully from a diplomatic standpoint by Denmark, to avoid provoking a violent reaction on the Soviet side. A technical inspection was carried out in a well-coordinated, highly secretive mission set up by the British and the US, ending with the restitution of the reassembled machine to Poland. Finally, the pilot was granted asylum in the US, where he had a remarkable military career (his flight suit from the defection mission ending up in the Smithsonian collection, at Udvar-Hazy Center, close to Dulles airport in Washington, D.C.). This topic is well covered in the excellent book ‘The secret MiGs of Bornholm‘ by Dick van der Aart (see the bookshop section).
Jarecki’s escape was not an isolated case, since in 1953 and 1956 two more Polish fighter pilots successfully landed (or crash-landed) their aircraft on Bornholm (while another made it all the way to Sweden). Then the Soviets had Polish fighter units relocated further south, where Bornholm was out of range, and took over control of the northernmost bases.
Defection to Borhnolm by air on a jet fighter was rare compared to the overall cases of people reaching Bornholm to flee either communist Poland or the GDR, similarly close to the island. For all the years of the Cold War, Bornholm constituted the goal of dozens of escape attempts, some of them successful, carried out mostly by sea.
The location well within the Soviet area of influence was exploited with the construction of a prominent intelligence base by Denmark, to the advantage of NATO forces. This was again in the Dueodde. The base was very effective and was updated to keep up with upgrades in electronic communication technology over the years until the end of the Cold War. It was later kept in service, and shut off only in 2012.
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A visit to Bornholm today will likely be for relaxation and for enjoying this nice country. However, for those with an interest for its peculiar history there are some very interesting collections and rare sites to visit. They allow to retrace in particular the rich military history of the island, without much effort and with great satisfaction for either researchers or the general public. This post covers five of them, four of which are museums. They were all visited in the summer of 2024, and all photographs were taken in that occasion.
A good place to start the exploration of the military history of Bornholm, the Defence Museum (Bornholms Forsvarsmuseum in the local idiom) is located to the south of the town center of Rønne, the busiest seaport and the capital city of the island.
The museum is hosted in two old military buildings, including the local kastellet, a massive tower with a round base, built for coastal defense.
The collection is housed in the courtyard and on the two levels of the first building. For the relatively little area it covers, this collection is extremely rich and informative, with panels covering in depth some specific events, offered in multiple languages including English.
On the ground floor, an interesting exhibition on the evolution of the artillery in Bornholm starts with a display of very old cannons – including possibly the oldest preserved exemplars of some types – and insignia dating from the wars against Sweden.
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Then more modern exemplars from the 19th century, and reaching to an American type 105 from WWII, employed on Bornholm in the Cold War period, allow to follow the evolution of this type of weapon.
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
For more curious visitors, little artifacts interspersed between the larger exhibits on display add much value to the collection. Training material for anti-aircraft artillery from the WWII era, including down-scaled fake aircraft targets, as well as various types of grenades and shells employed with the artillery pieces stationed on the island can be found on display between the big guns on the ground floor.
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
An original German aiming device has been positioned such to be still usable – you can see outside through the optical system. Note the eagle and swastika marking on the label.
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
A particularly interesting item, not easy to find in a museum, is a complete launching device for the Stinger missile. This type of ground-to-air anti-aircraft missile, albeit rather rudimentary compared to other offensive missile platforms, has turned out very effective in actual war scenarios, especially against slow-moving aircraft or helicopters. The compact launchpad, operable by a single gunner, features two launching tubes. Aiming is via a visor, and the trigger is placed on two pistol-like grips.
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Many radio transmitters and receivers, including a sizable console with stacks mostly made in the US (look at the labels and tags!), are on display together with a rare computer, a Compucorp 625 Mark II, a standalone machine which was employed from the late 1970s to run a software for ballistic computations.
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
On the top floor of the same building, an exhibition covering some specific military episodes from the 19th century serves as an introduction to the rich collection of memorabilia from WWII and the Cold War.
Decorations from the Third Reich, as well as insignia, uniforms and personal everyday items belonging to the Wehrmacht troops, or to some specific people in the German staff living on the island, are on display, in most cases along with explanatory panels telling their peculiar stories.
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Unusual items include a table with mottoes in German, an embroidered napkin with emblems from the winning powers of WWII.
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
As said in the introduction, Bornholm found itself on the trajectory of allied bombers returning from raids on today’s northeastern Germany (including Berlin). In more instances, bombers damaged by flak fire or by German fighter aircraft, hence unable to make their way home, were forced to crash-land on Bornholm. The detailed history of two of these bombers and their corresponding crews is told in a dedicated set of display cases, showing even the track followed by each of the crew members as they tried to flee Bornholm (occupied by the Germans). Some interesting memorabilia items are on display from those episodes, including personal belongings of the crew members, and cash notes in diverse currencies, with their names written on them. These notes were given specifically to crew members, to help them in case of landing in a foreign country in Europe.
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
From the same era is a perfectly preserved Enigma machine. This is presented together with a detailed story, which could be retraced by war historians in Bornholm. Actually, this specific machine was made in 1937 and largely employed on the Eastern front in the actions against the Soviet Union. When German troops were fleeing the northern coast of Poland and Germany in the last days of the war (May 1945), the machine arrived to Bornholm, where it was little employed, since the chain of command of the German Army had collapsed by that time. The machine was ditched in the water by the surrendering troops, but it was soon to be found, taken to a private house, and largely forgotten afterwards. Finally, it was donated to the museum decades later.
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Another unusual display is about the relics of German experimental weapons landing in Bornholm, and the espionage operations related to their find. Due to the proximity with the island of Usedom and the research center of Wehrner von Braun in Peenemünde, launches from the polygon where V-1 and V-2 were being tested could be spotted sometimes from Bornholm. Actually, early exemplars of a Fieseler Fi-103, aka V-1, first stranded on Bornholm in July and August 1943. They were first discovered by two local Danish citizens belonging to the police, who took quick sketches and pictures, and passed them to the British through the anti-German resistance links. These turned out to be the first photographs of that new weapon to reach the western Allies. The two were captured and imprisoned by the German occupants, but eventually they managed to flee to Sweden.
Some relics of the V-1 crashed on Bornholm are on display, as well as memorabilia items belonging to the two Danes who found the relic. The latter include a British decoration presented for their service.
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Additionally, interesting pictures show the contrail of a V-2 photographed over Bornholm, and the picture of another V-2 crashed in Sweden!
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Further remains from the era include gauges from the cockpit of German fighter aircraft, captured by the Soviets as they were trying to takeoff from Bornholm and escape, and a ribbon from the ill-fated German passenger ship Wilhelm Gustloff. She was sank by a Soviet submarine roughly 60 miles east of Bornholm in January 1945, while enroute to mainland Germany from former possessions of the Third Reich in nowadays Poland, lost to the advancing Red Army. Losses are estimated in the range of 10’000, making this largely forgotten episode by far the worst-ever naval disaster in history.
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Another rich section documents the presence of the Soviets on the island. Artifacts on display range from flags and direction signs for the stationing troops, written in Russian, to many personal items left behind by the Soviets.
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Typical propaganda posters are on display as well, similar to more official and non-public items, like transcripts of communications between the local Danish and Soviet commanders from the age of the Soviet occupation of Bornholm in 1945-46.
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Many evocative pictures are on display from that time as well, and similarly from the Cold War. Among them, pictures of the Polish MiGs landed on Bornholm, of the many ELINT and COMINT centers put on Bornholm during the decades of the Cold War (including the tower in Nexø, see here), and copy of the Soviet attack plan in case of war against NATO.
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
A final chapter documented in this nice museum is the service of the Danish Armed Forces within the UN in Cyprus. Tasked with border surveillance between the two regions on the island, Danish forces were involved in action – with some casualties – at the time of the Turkish attack in 1970. They only left the island in the early 1990s.
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
The kastellet is today mostly empty, and once inside, it is possible to appreciate the original architecture of this bastion, which saw action against the many attempts by foreign attackers to land on Bornholm.
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
On the outside and in a small depot on the side of the inner courtyard, further items are on display. Propellers from the WWII aircraft crashed in the area represent both the German Luftwaffe (Do-17 bomber) and the Western Allies (B-24 and Halifax bombers).
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
A Chaffee-type small tank and two armored vehicles are on display, together with naval guns, radar antennas, land robots and artillery aiming gear.
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
A peculiar sight is one of the observation turrets originally scattered on the territory of the island, for spotting aircraft or other flying stuff and promptly report it.
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
On display are also sea mines, sonobuoys, radar scopes and parts of torpedoes, some of them interesting Soviet models, likely recovered from the Baltic Sea during the Cold War.
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Ahead of the entrance to the museum, a memorial stone has been put more recently by an association of veterans.
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Getting there and visiting
The museum is located close to Rønne downtown, from where it can be reached with a short walk (about .3 miles south from the central touristic area). The address is Arsenalvej 8 – 3700 Rønne. There is a little parking area on site. The museum is professionally run, and it has its own dedicated website here (also available in English).
Visiting is strongly recommended as a first stop for an exploration of the military history of Bornholm. For war buffs, WWII and Cold War historians, this place has much in store, and a visit may easily take 2 hours. Less is required for a more basic visit, made easy also by the compactness of the display.
Bornholm’s Museum, Rønne
Bornholm’s Museum is the main facility dedicated to the history of the island. Located in a former hospital, you can immediately notice the presence of a bombing raid shelter in the courtyard. This is an original relic from WWII.
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
The museum takes all floors of a small building, and it is dedicated to the history of the island in all its aspects, and with artifacts from all ages, including Roman coins and viking accessories.
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Of particular interest from the time of the vikings is a collection of golden plates. They are smaller than a human fingernail, and decorated with human figures and other subjects. Plus, they are really many! They are of special interest also due to the fact that nobody knows what they are. Archaeologists found them mostly on Bornholm, and in a much lower quantity elsewhere in Scandinavia.
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Fast forward to the 20th century, the museum has on display interesting memorabilia from WWII and from the era of the Soviet occupation.
Among them are original decorations, documents and photographs, from both the German and Soviet sides.
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
From the early Cold War period, a small piece from Jarecki’s MiG-15 is preserved in a display case, with a picture of President Eisenhower receiving at the White House the first pilot defecting from Eastern Europe (apparently, a young John F. Kennedy appears to stand behind them).
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Shop signs and indication signs in Russian, the original working desk of the Danish governor of the island at the time of the Soviet occupation, and everyday working tools belonging to the Soviet staff are among the displays in this museum.
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
A – perhaps – non-permanent exhibition is dedicated to the Soviets on the island, including the two air bombing raids they carried out in the closing days of WWII, which caused much destruction.
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
An interesting exhibition on the Cold War in Bornholm examines it from different perspectives. Among them, it is shown how preparations for a nuclear attack included the institution of a civil defense system, similar to most western Countries.
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Similarly, the conspicuous wave of defections, of both military staff and civilians, from beyond the Iron Curtain to Bornholm is fully documented. Being located relatively close to the GDR and Poland, Bornholm was a natural target destination for those trying to leave the Baltic coast by sea. On display are documents of seamen asking for asylum, as well as a small dinghy employed for a successful escape attempt. A rather impressive full list of the successful and unsuccessful escape attempts towards Bornholm from the communist world is provided.
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
In another part of the museum, dedicated to everyday items and business activities, it is possible to find toys and other common tools from the Cold War era, as well as beautiful models of several vessels in service at that time – as well as today.
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Getting there and visiting
The museum is one of the major attractions in Rønne, the capital city of the island. It is located within the perimeter of the historical center of the town, and you will be probably visiting it if you are interested in any aspect of the history of Bornholm. The address is Sankt Mortens Gade 29 – 3700 Rønne.
For those with an interest for the military history of the 20th century, the collection of this museum makes for a nice complement to that to be found in the Defence Museum (see above).
For a complete visit, 1 to 2 hours are likely enough. Less than 1 hour is needed if you are mostly interested to the WWII and Cold War part, including the nice exhibition on the Soviet presence.
The museum has regular opening times and a fully documented website here (also available in English).
Bornholm’s Tower, Nexø
The tower is an authentic relic from the Cold War. The intelligence site in Dueodde (close to the major town of Nexø, itself close to the southeastern corner of Bornholm) was originally established in 1958, in the facilities of an old lighthouse from 1876, which is still standing besides the new tower.
The task was that of intercepting communications from Soviet channels, primarily to the aim of knowing of any potentially offensive maneuver against Denmark or NATO in advance. The geographical location of Bornholm made it ideal for installing such a plant, since this territory is significantly farther east than the Danish mainland, hence closer to the Eastern Bloc and the Soviet Union.
Soon after the take over of the lighthouse by the Danish intelligence and the installation of the first technical gear, continuous improvement started around that facility, leading to the construction of a dedicated tower, which stood until the mid 1980s, and was extensively employed for gathering useful intelligence. Among the most notable information obtained in favor of NATO forces were the reports witnessing the preparation of an attack by the Warsaw Pact forces on Czechoslovakia, at the time of Dubcek’s attempted reformation of the communist system in 1968 – an invasion which eventually took place, tragically putting an end to a new political course in that Country.
The relevance of the site in Dueodde in the panorama of NATO intelligence is further shown by the decision to substantially upgrade the technical installation, demolishing the existing infrastructure and building anew a more modern and massive tower in 1986.
The new tower was operated continuously until 2012, when the installation was finally shut down, and the facility was partly demolished and sold. It is since then privately owned, and it has now reopened for visitors.
A visit allows to explore the foundations of the tower, where cables and pipelines – including compressed air and coolant fluid – can still be seen. Compressed air was employed for keeping in shape the special ‘shells’ where the technical stuff used to be put.
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
These shells were arranged hanging vertically from the concrete tower, which is the only part remaining today (the shells are gone, you can see two of the original platforms in the courtyard, close to the original cooling station). Coolant fluid was employed for the big servers which hosted and processed data. A wind monitoring cabinet – made in USA – can be found at the ground level of the tower.
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
By taking the original elevator, it is possible to climb to the top, where the view ranges in all directions, and allows to see the beautiful white dunes for which this area is mostly famous.
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Inside the facility, mostly empty today, it is possible to see some remnants of the server rooms. Most of the empty rooms have been employed for a display of electronic cabinets and communication gear. A reconstruction of some of original technical rooms has been attempted, and the display is completed with historical pictures of the site.
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Server rooms are among the preserved original parts of the tower.
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Further rooms host displays related at large to WWII and the Cold War.
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
An interesting addition to the visit is an original MiG-15, presented in the colors of the Polish Air Force, and resembling those which fled from Poland to Bornholm, at the commands of brave early Cold War defectors. Photographs and copies of newspapers documenting those episodes are on display.
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Interestingly, what appears to be a control surface or the part of a wing of an authentic Soviet aircraft can be seen on the side of the display, likely only provisionally.
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Scattered along the walls in the exhibition are original pictures, with close-ups of intercepted aircraft from the Soviet bloc.
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Getting there and visiting
The tower (Bornholmertarnet in the local idiom) is located close to the white dunes of the strand of Dueodde, on the very southeastern tip of the island, about 4 miles south of the major town of Nexø. The exact formal address is Strandmarksvejen 2 – 3730 Nexø. Large parking on site.
Visiting may take about 1 hour for the interested visitor. The tower can be climbed to the top with an elevator. Visiting the facility and exhibitions does not take much, since most rooms are basically empty.
The official website of this installation is here (multiple translations available).
Bornholm’s Technical Collection, Allinge
This incredible museum has been constituted through the merge of several private collections. In most cases they are very specialized selections of technical items. These range from tractors to airport vehicles, from pocket lighters to radios, from personal computers to naval radar scopes, and much more!
Besides well-stuffed collections, which strike for their size and range, there are also some specialties, like unusual items – typically relics or one-of-a-kind exemplars. Especially the latter include some items from the Cold War chapter of the history of Bornholm.
Actually, possibly the biggest item on display is a SAAB Draken aircraft. This excellent Swedish-made attack aircraft used to fly in the colors of the Danish Air Force (see this post). The exemplar on display comes with some of the accessories, including wing pods, the parachute for brake assistance, etc.
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Close by the Draken, it is possible to find several aviation-related displays, like jet engines, optical gear, radar-receiving consoles. There is also the map of the scenic flights offered from an airport which does not exist any more, and which used to be close to the northern coast of the island (the only airport is today that in Rønne).
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
One of the jet engines looks like an evidence from an aircraft accident, involving a Learjet business jet crash-landed on Bornholm.
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Not far from the Draken, another rare aircraft on display is a SAI KZIII, designed and manufactured in Denmark in 1946.
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Further finds in the museum are a stop light, which was employed for stopping road traffic on local roads close to the runway, when an aircraft in need of a shallow approach path was landing in Rønne, and the doors originally in an airport building, with stickers of flight associations from all over the world.
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
A military trailer with radio communication gear is on display, as well as an old truck, which happens to be the very same truck seen boarded by young Soviet soldiers, at the time of the Soviet occupation of Bornholm!
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
A little collection is made of GDR-made items.
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
A small room is dedicated to marine detection gear and the corresponding scopes.
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bulky elements on display include a one-of-a-kind locally assembled truck, a monster roadworks machine made in the Third Reich and which never returned to Germany, and trucks for removing snow from the road. They have two engines, one moving the truck, the other moving the spool. The arrangement is rather involved, with an articulated (angled!) shaft carrying mechanical power from the engine to the spool.
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Airport gear includes a SAAB car with a runway friction tester in the back, and a truck for spreading anti-ice fluid.
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Other rich hi-tech collections include one with radio receivers, another with cameras and video-recorders.
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Even one centered on personal computer consoles can be found.
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
The collection of tractors on display is really impressive, with machines coming from diverse nations and makers.
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Other parts of the museum are basically old shops moved in, and in some cases with fully working machinery (like the blacksmith).
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
The list of collections is really huge! There is surely something for everybody on display.
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Getting there and visiting
The museum can be found in the countryside, on the road 159 connecting Rønne to Allinge-Sandvig, one of the biggest settlements on the northern coast, about 1.5 miles from the latter. The exact address is Borrelyngvej 48, 3770 Allinge-Sandvig. Large parking on the premises.
The museum is very peculiar, it features rich collections and it is run by knowledgeable people who are willing to provide descriptions and information also in English. A visit may appeal to everybody including children, and not only to war historians. However, it is duly listed here especially for the war- and aviation-related collections in it. A visit to the entire museum may easily take about 2 hours, especially when talking with the locals. Much less is needed for a quick look at just some parts of it.
Even though Stalin’s USSR finally withdrew from the occupied territory of Bornholm, the conquer of the island by the Soviets in 1945-46 meant the construction of a Soviet war cemetery, similar to those to be found scattered on the territory of the former countries of the Eastern bloc.
A very unassuming and rather intimate monument was inaugurated close to the local Danish graveyard in Allinge-Sandvig. By agreement with the local government, the cemetery is still maintained today.
Den Russiske Kirkegård Bornholm – Soviet War Cemetery
Den Russiske Kirkegård Bornholm – Soviet War Cemetery
Den Russiske Kirkegård Bornholm – Soviet War Cemetery
Den Russiske Kirkegård Bornholm – Soviet War Cemetery
Den Russiske Kirkegård Bornholm – Soviet War Cemetery
A central obelisk, with prominent emblems and writings in both Russian and Danish, is placed ahead of a large memorial stone, with the names of fallen Soviet soldiers on it.
Getting there and visiting
The cemetery can be conveniently reached uphill of the village of Allinge-Sandvig. The exact address is Pilegade 18A, 3770 Allinge-Sandvig. Parking is possible on the road in the immediate vicinity of the cemetery. The site is open-air and not fenced, therefore it can be accessed 24/7. Visiting may take 15 minutes.
German coastal gun site, Dueodde
The coastal guns in Dueodde, close to the southeastern corner of the island and the Cold War tower (see above), are not open as a museum, yet they are fairly easily accessible to the general public. They are the most sizable remains of the planned installation for four 38 cm coastal guns, part of the ambitious coastal defense program of the Third Reich known as Atlantic Wall. This particular fortress became pointless after the break-out of hostilities between Hitler’s Germany and the USSR in 1941, since the line of the front shifted significantly towards the east, far away from Bornholm. Since construction works were correspondingly halted, only the unfinished emplacements of two of the cannons remain today, respectively Nr.3 and Nr.4.
The emplacement Nr.3 is easily accessible from the road. You can see the large round base prepared for the revolving gun. The central pinion is still there (note the big diameter of the metal screws, compared with the cover of my wide lens!).
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
The circular corridor for moving the shells and taking them to the gun can be easily walked.
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
The construction to the north was planned to shelter the troops manning the station, as well as with a technical part for storing the shells and the explosive cartridges. Many rooms can be accessed – albeit a torchlight is mandatory in this area. However, they are completely empty, and there is nothing more than bare concrete.
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
The second site, Nr.4, is more secluded within a group of private homes. However, it can be accessed fairly easily by walking. It is basically a twin of the other emplacement, and the state of conservation (including, unfortunately, tons of stupid graffiti) is the same.
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Getting there and moving around
The two emplacements are geographically extremely close to the Cold War tower described above. It is possible to park at the tower, in the large parking areas closer to the white dunes strand, or along the road in proximity to these installations.
The coordinates for parking and getting a quick access are for Nr.3: 55.00058432993301, 15.080803777073971, and for Nr.4: 55.00255210231893, 15.084640862385443.
Both sites are not fenced and accessible 24/7. Visiting may take 15 minutes for each of the emplacements – the condition is unfortunately not ideal, with many graffiti likely such to spoil your pictures.
War actions in Scandinavia constitute a crucial stage in the unfolding of WWII events in Europe. The strategic position of the Scandinavian peninsula was not overlooked by strategists in the Third Reich and the USSR, and by the Western Allies. As a matter of fact, the German invasion of Denmark and Norway took place as early as the Spring of 1940, starting just weeks before the invasion of Holland, Belgium and France.
History & Remains – A Quick Summary
For Germany in WWII, the long and impervious coast of Norway constituted an ideal strong point to carry out raids over the North Sea, Norwegian Sea, the northern Atlantic and the Barents Sea, interfering with resupply convoys from Britain and the US. Especially after the start of the war against the USSR in 1941, the polar routes going to Murmansk – the only non-freezing port on the northern coast of the USSR – were within range of German warships and aircraft operating from the north of Norway. Control over Norway and Denmark meant total control on the access to the Baltic Sea, thus protecting the northern coast of Germany from direct attack by the Western Allies, allowing unimpeded action against the Soviet Union on that sea. Of the greatest importance in the northern European territory was also the abundance of raw materials – mainly metals for industrial production – so desperately needed by the Third Reich.
For the Allies, keeping Scandinavia was an objective of great relevance in the early stages of the war, since this territory could be a convenient springboard to launch attacks against the flat and easy coast of Germany. In the rapidly changing complex alliances and diplomatic relationships of the early stage of WWII (1939-40), Norway and Sweden tried to keep out of the war. Finland fought the Winter War against the USSR (itself one of the results of the Ribbentrop-Molotov pact, albeit not to the knowledge of the Finns), loosing part of its territory and strengthening its link with Germany for some years to come (see this post). The Third Reich attacked Norway by air and sea in April 1940, and help was sought especially in Britain. King Haakon VII of Norway left for exile in England, and the initial battles of WWII between the Reich and the UK were fought – mainly at sea – in proximity of Norwegian ports.
The Atlantic Wall
Possibly the most impressive military trace of WWII in Europe, the Atlantic Wall – a defense line stretching from France to northern Norway – was designed and built in Denmark and Germany, immediately following the successful push of the Third Reich into these Countries. Actually, those are the Countries where the most relevant remains of this interesting trace of war can be found today. A very ambitious project both in purpose and required resources, the Atlantic Wall never reached completion. Despite that, the geography of Norway, with a coastline featuring only limited access to the inland area, allowed to create an effective barrier against a potential enemy landing. Hundreds of gun batteries, complemented with anti-aircraft artillery and radars, constituted a powerful deterrent against any invasion. As a matter of fact, after the unique episode of the Battle of Narvik in the early stages of WWII, no Allied forces ever landed in Norway from the sea for the rest of the war.
A complete visit to all sites of the Atlantic Wall in Norway is a really immense task, due to the number of installations and their geographical remoteness. However, a few impressive highlights can be found in convenient locations, and can be easily visited by everybody. In this post some of them are presented – the colossal battery ‘Vara’, the southern fortified area of Lista, the forts of Fjell and Tellevik near Bergen, and the massive cannons of Austratt.
War Museums
But other fragments of the rich legacy of WWII in Norway can be retraced also away from the preserved installations of the Atlantic Wall. An interesting page is that of naval warfare deployed by the Navy of the Third Reich – the Kriegsmarine – to counter Allied shipping activities. Names like Tirpitz, Scharnhorst and Gneisenau are frequently found in history books as well as in movies or scale model shops, and they are just a few of the mighty vessels linked to the Scandinavian war theater. Dedicated exhibitions can be found in little but impressively rich museums on these topics. In this post, the Tirpitz Museum in Alta, the War Museum of Narvik and the exhibition in the visitor center of North Cape are covered.
Special interest sites
Heroic actions involving the Norwegian resistance organization are proudly remembered all over the Nation. A particularly interesting location being the Rjukan hydroelectric power-plant, which produced heavy water, a key-component in the research leading to the preparation of fissile material. This strategic asset was highly needed by the German nuclear program. On the other hand, its possession by the Third Reich was seen as a clear and present danger by the Allies, who tried to have the plant destroyed in several instances. The Norwegian resistance was clearly much involved in sabotage missions, due to the difficulty in targeting the place through air bombing raids. The power-plant is today a nice museum, covered in this post.
Photographs in this chapter were collected on a visit in August 2022.
Sights
The map below shows the location of the sites mentioned in this chapter. Their listing in the descriptions roughly follows a clockwise sense, starting from the southernmost point of Kristiansand (Vara battery). Red items are in disrepair, whereas blue ones are official tourist destinations.
The Vara battery was built as the core of the strongly fortified area around Kristiansand. Thanks to its position close to the southernmost tip of the Norwegian territory, this port town is still today very busy with passenger and freight traffic from nearby Denmark.
The Third Reich military started to lay sea mines as soon as it gained control of both sides of the Skagerrak strait. The coast around Kristiansand was reinforced with several coastal artillery pieces, and production of a set of special 38 cm caliber guns – called Siegfried -was started by the Krupp ironworks in Essen in 1940. The aim was that of controlling access to the Baltic sea by means of two batteries of long-range naval guns, one to the south in Denmark (Hanstholm, see here), and one to the north in Kristiansand.
The cannons should be capable of revolving by 360 degrees, and special concrete rotundas were prepared for the scope in a location called Møvik, on the southwestern end of the gulf of Kristiansand. The complex morphology of the terrain in this site led to a smaller than desirable area for the battery, where all technical buildings – including ammo storages – had to be built relatively close to one another. These massive constructions alone, built by the same ‘Organisation Todt’ responsible for the implementation of the coastal defense positions all over Europe, make for a remarkable work of engineering, carried out with the help of local builders, working relentlessly around the clock to have these emplacements ready as soon as possible.
In the event, only three of the four Siegfried cannons made their way to the battery in Kristiansand, one being apparently lost when the transport ship carrying it was sunk on the Baltic Sea. Transporting these 110 ton, around 60 ft long barrels by rail from Germany into the narrow valleys of Scandinavia was not an easy task. However, two cannons were test-fired in May 1942, and the third in November the same year.
The battery received the name ‘Vara’, after a high-ranking official killed in Guernsey in 1941.
Battery Vara went through the war without seeing an involvement in any major war action, and was mainly test-fired only. The whole installation, comprising target detection points, analog computers for target aiming, ammo storages – including more than 1.400 shells! – and many other service buildings, was inherited intact by the Norwegian Armed Forces in 1945, similar to many other installations along the coast of the Skagerrak and the North Sea. It was incorporated in the Norwegian coastal artillery between 1946 and 1954, being later placed in reserve having by then become obsolete for Cold War warfare standards. Two cannons were scrapped, whereas one – the only entirely surviving battery Nr. 2 – was luckily kept. The site survived subsequent stages of demolition works over the next decades, but in the early 1990s it was finally re-opened as a museum.
Cannon Nr. 2
Today, the centerpiece of the visit is constituted by a walk around the perfectly preserved building of cannon Nr.2. This bunkerized building is composed of a set of technical rooms, for ammo assembly and storage, as well as for services like Diesel power generators, and an adjoining rotunda, where the big cannon revolved around a pinion, and could be pointed to its target, following instructions from the battery control center. The latter elaborated target data from detection, identification, measuring and range-finding positions scattered around the battery perimeter.
Access to the back of the concrete building is via the original hatch, closed by iron doors. You can see the narrow-gauge railway track leading in. This linked the cannon buildings with the ammo storages around, and allowed to supply the cannon with ammo parts (the explosive cartridge and the shell are not assembled in a single unity for larger cannons, unlike for lighter weapons). The hatch drives you into a long corridor, the backbone of the bunkerized quarters behind the cannon rotunda. Here some shells have been put on the original railway trolley for display.
The cannon building hosted a permanent watch of a few men, which manned it permanently in shifts. A living room with some berths is the only one offering some comfort in the building.
A number of rooms in the bunker are dedicated to the power generator plant. A primary and a back-up generator share the same room. Of special interest are the labels on all machines and mechanisms, proudly made in Germany – in some cases, by brands still existing today.
Electric power was required for the motion of the cannon, besides for smaller appliances like lights and radios. The cannons could make use of the regional grid, but since an unstable supply might have damaged the cannon motors, aiming operations were often carried out on the controlled internal power grid, fed by the generators, and producing an optimal output.
Beside the generator room, the air conditioning plant (not for comfort, but to slightly pressurize the bunker in order to repel and pump-out poisonous or exhaust gas), the Diesel tank and the water tank for cooling the generator can be seen in adjoining rooms.
To the far end of the corridor, a radio room was used to maintain a link with the battery command post, located more than 1 mile away from Vara battery. Actually, by design the electric signals to orient the cannon could be given by the control post, and the radio communication system was there for backup.
On the other side of the corridor with respect to the generator rooms – i.e. towards the cannon rotunda – are four adjoining rooms, used to store the components of the explosive cartridges and shells. The shells and cartridges prepared for firing were moved via a crane to a tray, and from there sent side-wards to the rotunda, where they were loaded on a trolley. The cranes, trays and slots linking these rooms to the rotunda can be found around the area of the bunker closer to the rotunda.
The cranes moved along tracks hanging from the ceiling. These tracks had some switch points, allowing to allow the crane to move across different rooms in the bunker.
Inside these rooms, today you can find much original material of special interest. Specimens of high-explosive (yellow) and armor-piercing (blue) shells are displayed. The weight of the shells was around 800 kg, where the cartridge could feature different weights, roughly from 100 to 200 kg.
The top range of these cannons and shells was around 43 km. Smaller 500 kg shells could alternatively be fired by Siegfried cannons, with a longer range of 55 km. Furthermore, the cannon could be test-fired during drills with smaller caliber shots, by reducing the bore of the cannon. This was a very useful feature, since the estimated loss of barrel metal due to attrition was a staggering 0.25 kg per shot, implying a life of the barrel of only around 250-300 shots, firing with sufficient accuracy. Shooting smaller shells allowed to spare barrel wear and extend the time between overhauls of the cannon.
The sealed canisters for the explosive cartridges, with original markings in German, can still be seen piled in a room!
More material on display includes a rare example of fire direction computer. Actually, that on display is smaller than the one originally used for the long-range cannons of Vara battery, but it provides a good idea of the level of sophistication of this mechanism. Data like target distance, velocity, orientation, wind speed and direction, etc. were set as input to this analog computer, producing fire direction variables to point the cannon. An incredible masterpiece of engineering and craftsmanship, this type of computer is difficult to find in museums, and allows to appreciate the level of development of warfare back in the 1940s.
Data including range of the target was found with the help of special instrumentation. A stereoscopic range-finder was installed in the battery command post, with an arm of 12 m, which allowed good accuracy for very distant targets – required for the long range of the cannons of Vara battery. Smaller instruments with the same principle are displayed in one of the rooms.
Among the special features of this bunkerized building are the restored, original writings from German times, as well as a one-of-a-kind painting made by a Soviet prisoner of war.
From the bunkerized room, you can get access to the rotunda. Cartridges put on trolleys moved along a circular railway track all around the rotunda. This way, cartridges could be taken to the cannon whatever the direction it was pointing. Once to the base of the cannon turret, the explosive charge and the shell were lifted separately by means of two special elevators, up to the level of the gun shutter.
An impressive feature of the rotunda is the ring cover for the circular railway. In order to protect the railway passage from above, while allowing the cannon to rotate, a roof made of thick metal scales was implemented. When revolving around the pinion, the cannon turret would automatically lift the scales on its passage. The sound of the scales being lifted and released while the cannon body was revolving must have been really an experience!
Here the back of the barrel dominates the relatively large firing chamber. The shutter has been left open, so you can see the sunlight through the barrel.
The shell and explosive charge were received from the two elevators on a special tray, and here they were finally aligned one before the other. Somewhat in contrast to the top-notch technology level of the installation, the cartridge had to be pushed from the back into the barrel by hand. A long wooden stick was used for the task. Actually, it was so long that it protruded from the back of the cannon turret, thus requiring a small hatch to be pierced in the metal armor correspondingly. On one side of the barrel, instrumentation for measuring the pointing direction is still in place.
The position of cannon Nr.1 was prepared unusually close to that of Nr.2. As said, this was due to the limited available area on the uneven coast section where the battery was put in place. However, Nr.1 never received a cannon. Conversely, it was modified later in the war, when experimenting with cannon protection from air-dropped high-yield bombs. The rotunda was capped with a very thick concrete roof, sustained by sidewalls which limited the side-wards rotation of the cannon to 120 degrees.
The rotunda can be walked freely. The central pinion is still in place. Inside, the ceiling is covered in original metal panels. The round corridor for the trolleys can still be seen, but there is no access left to the bunkerized part.
Following the railway around the site is a great way to find what remains today of the original installation. There are two bulky ammo storages. These were reportedly more thickly armored than usual, in view of a higher risk of getting hit, due to the unusual proximity with the cannons – designated targets for the enemy.
Furthermore, other smaller buildings are scattered around, which may have served as storage for lighter weapons.
The positions of cannons Nr. 3 and Nr. 4 have been largely demolished, and access is permanently shut to the bunkerized part. However, you can easily climb to the top level, to get a nice view of the rotunda.
Vara is in the top-five list of the most famous surviving installations of the Atlantic Wall in Europe, and a visit to this destination is in itself a good reason for a detour to Norway for war historians and like-minded people. Due to its proximity to the port of Kristiansand, just minutes apart by car, and the relatively easy-to-reach location in the most populated part of Norway, it is also a top destination for any tourist in the area. As a matter of fact, the place is run as a top-level museum, with great reception capability, and is visited by thousands of visitors per year.
Visiting can be performed on a self-guided basis, with an explanation leaflet which allows to get much from your visit, especially if you are not new to installations of the Atlantic Wall (which are mostly standardized, despite Vara having really oversized guns!). A tour of the main features – cannon Nr.2 and the building of Nr.1 – may take 1 hour at least, for an averagely interested person. For an in-depth visit and a quick tour of the premises including other remains, more than 2 hours are needed. Thanks to the exceptional level of conservation and the explanation of whatever is on display, the visit is not boring and may be very rewarding even for younger people.
Large parking on site, picnic tables and warm reception are available – as usual in Norway! Website with full information here.
Nordberg & Marka Batteries – Farsund
Located in the southwestern corner of the Norwegian territory, about 100 miles south of the port of Stavanger, the municipality of Farsund encompasses a number of small coastal villages, around the landmark represented by the lighthouse of Lista.
Two batteries were set up by the German occupation forces as part of the Atlantic wall, both fully operative by 1942. The northern one is called Nordberg fort, where the southern one, very close to the shore line, is known as Marka fort. Between the two, the Germans installed a full-scale airbase, with a runway of roughly 1.5 km, complemented by hangars and shelters largely standing today. Following the end of WWII and the withdrawal of the German military, all these installations were converted for military use by the Norwegian armed forces, which also developed the original airfield into a more modern airbase by stretching the runway.
Today, Nordberg fort is a museum. The German Navy was in charge of the station, which had as centerpieces three 150 mm cannons, with a range of around 23 km. The cannons have been scrapped (with the exception of a lighter piece of Russian make). However, the firing positions are still there, linked by a semi-interred trench.
You can see also the original control point for the battery, developed by the Norwegians more recently, and the concrete base for a radar antenna originally on site.
Several original buildings for services – canteen, hospital,… – are still there, making for a an interesting opportunity to see how this installation looked like back in the 1940s.
The Marka fort was assembled around six 150 mm guns, located very close to the sea, grouped in two batteries of three firing positions each. A huge bunkerized command post was built in the premises of the fort. Today, after the Norwegian military left at the end of the Cold War, the Marka battery is basically a ghost site, despite being still in a relatively good shape.
The control bunker is especially interesting, since you can access the top level and watch the sea from the very same room and windows originally used by the German Navy troops! The general arrangement of the bunker is similar to other command posts you can find on the Atlantic Wall – especially in Denmark (see here).
Marka Battery Lista Farsund – Atlantic Wall – WWII – Norway
Marka Battery Lista Farsund – Atlantic Wall – WWII – Norway
Marka Battery Lista Farsund – Atlantic Wall – WWII – Norway
Marka Battery Lista Farsund – Atlantic Wall – WWII – Norway
Marka Battery Lista Farsund – Atlantic Wall – WWII – Norway
Marka Battery Lista Farsund – Atlantic Wall – WWII – Norway
Marka Battery Lista Farsund – Atlantic Wall – WWII – Norway
Marka Battery Lista Farsund – Atlantic Wall – WWII – Norway
Marka Battery Lista Farsund – Atlantic Wall – WWII – Norway
Marka Battery Lista Farsund – Atlantic Wall – WWII – Norway
The positions for the coastal guns can be reached close to the control bunker. They are uncovered round areas, slightly below the level of the ground, framed by a circular reinforced sidewall.
Marka Battery Lista Farsund – Atlantic Wall – WWII – Norway
Marka Battery Lista Farsund – Atlantic Wall – WWII – Norway
More Atlantic Wall remains, like bunkers, foundations for radar stations, or emplacements for lighter guns, can be be found scattered in the area of Farsund – which kept its military site status well after the Germans had left.
Marka Battery Lista Farsund – Atlantic Wall – WWII – Norway
Marka Battery Lista Farsund – Atlantic Wall – WWII – Norway
Marka Battery Lista Farsund – Atlantic Wall – WWII – Norway
Marka Battery Lista Farsund – Atlantic Wall – WWII – Norway
Marka Battery Lista Farsund – Atlantic Wall – WWII – Norway
Marka Battery Lista Farsund – Atlantic Wall – WWII – Norway
Marka Battery Lista Farsund – Atlantic Wall – WWII – Norway
Marka Battery Lista Farsund – Atlantic Wall – WWII – Norway
Visiting
The museum of Nordberg keeps some of the buildings on the respective site open. However, the majority of the site is open 24 hours, and can be walked freely. A visit may take about 1 hour. A convenient parking can be found right ahead of the modern and welcoming visitor center, from where you can effortlessly reach most of the points of interest in this installation. Website with full information here.
The site of Marka – not part of any museum – can be approached at any time with some walking in the rural area along the coast line. A good starting point for an exploration is here, where you can leave your car and move along an easy trail to the command bunker and the gun rotundas about 0.5 miles west.
Fjell Fortress – Bergen
Bergen was a strategic base of the German Navy, which received a fortified submarine deck among the largest, most active and longest lasting in the history of WWII. The complex morphology of the territory around this port town allowed to effectively protect the access by means of a network of nine firing emplacements. One of them – Fjell – was of exceptional power and range.
It was built between 1942-43 diverting one of the batteries of battleship Gneisenau, which had been damaged beyond repair by an air raid while in port at Kiel (Germany). The battery was composed of three 28 cm guns in a single turret. The latter was very compact in design, a real masterpiece of naval engineering, but nonetheless it featured a rather tall substructure, with all that was needed to operate the guns – protruding from the relatively sleek top of the turret, surfacing on the ground.
Placing this special battery in Fjell required carving the rocky coast, creating a cylindrical underground pit, inside coated with concrete, to host the turret. The turret, an assembly of around 1.000 tonnes with the guns on top, was then transported up to this elevated site, and lowered into the pit. The battery was test fired in the mid of 1943. It acted as an effective deterrent, and reportedly never used in combat.
The battery was incorporated in the Norwegian coastal defense after WWII, and sadly scrapped in 1968, since by then obsolete, but not yet considered an historical landmark.
Clearly, the battery was in the middle of an off-limits military area in wartime, where bunkers for several services and for the the troops, at least two radar antennas and many emplacements for lighter defensive weapons were installed to protect the battery from ground and air attacks.
Today, the bunker-pit where the turret used to rest is the centerpiece of a visit to the site. Starting from the visitor center on top, where the guns used to be, you can descend to the base of the cylindrical pit – roughly 30 ft in diameter and 75 in depth! Here you can see the rooms originally employed for storing the explosive cartridges and the shells for the cannons. These were supplied on trolleys and slides, and sent inside the metal turret, to be lifted up to the level of the cannons for firing.
Most of the original German mechanical and electrical systems is still there to see, including wiring, phones, cranes, trolleys, and examples of shells and cartridges.
Back then, you got access to these storage areas from an entrance on the same level (i.e. not from the top of the turret, but from the base). You can see this entrance, as well as the curved corridor leading from the gate to the ammo storage area. Here, examples of sea mines and other war material can be found. The corridor has narrow-gauge railway track, which was used for resupplying the ammo storage from outside.
The corridor is curved, and firing positions are strategically placed to cover it, in order to counter enemy intrusion.
The bunker gives access to the living quarters for the troops. These are well preserved, and feature brick walls to help insulating the inside from the wet rock of the walls and ceilings.
Services, like toilets, sauna, washing machines and more, are original from the German tenancy. Especially the water basins appear very stylish, a good example of German design from the era.
Besides the main turret bunker, as said the Fjell site offers other constructions on a vast area, which can be checked out from the outside – also since the premises are at least formally military grounds still today.
The road reaching the site from the parking, gently climbing uphill, is reportedly the original main access to the Third Reich site. An interesting tank-stopping device can be seen to the lower end of the road – heavy stones on top of light pillars on the sides of the road. The pillars could be blown, and the stones would fall cutting the road, in case of a potential intrusion.
The fort of Fjell, about 15 miles west of central Bergen, is professionally run as a museum. Parking is only possible to the base of the cliff where the turret used to stand. From there, a 0.8 miles road climbs to the entrance. The scenic location and the nice rural area around make for an enjoyable walk. Visiting inside is only possibly on guided tours, offered also in English (an possibly other languages). A small restaurant can be found on top, where an observation deck has been built in place of the battery.
The location of the parking is here. A visit may take around 45 minutes, excluding the time needed to climb uphill and descend to the parking. Website with full information here.
Tellevik Fort – Bergen
The coastal fort of Tellevik, on the eastern head of the Norhordland Bridge, 15 miles north of Bergen, was part of the lighter defense artillery put in place by the German military to defend any access by water to Bergen. The battery was built by order of the Third Reich, profiting from the forced labor of Soviet prisoners of war.
Lighter howitzers were enough to cover the narrow water passages in proximity of the town. The elevation of the emplacement is low, slightly above the water surface.
The battery of Tellevik was centered on two such howitzers, placed on open-top positions. The two guns can be seen still today, on round concrete firing positions. The giant bridge today largely obstructing the field of sight was not there at the time of the German occupation.
A monument to Norwegian seamen victims to sea mines laid by the German to protect the access to Bergen is concurrently located on the site of the Tellevik battery.
Tellevik is an open air memorial, which can be walked freely 24/7. It can be reached by inputting these coordinates to a GPS navigation app.
A visit may take about 15 minutes, a nice detour from exceptionally crowded downtown Bergen.
Austrått Fortress – Austrått
Similar to Bergen, the major port of Trondheim was a strategic base for the German Navy. Protected by a long firth, the port was an ideal base for submarines and warships, to intercept convoys in the North Sea, Norwegian Sea, the Atlantic Ocean and the Barents Sea. Correspondingly, a number of coastal forts was prepared by the German occupation forces to counter any unauthorized access to the waterways leading to Trondheim.
The most powerful and impressive of these batteries is the Austratt Fort. Similar to the fortress of Fjell near Bergen (see above), Austratt received one of the turrets of the ill-fated battleship Gneisenau, damaged while moored in Kiel, in February 1942. A control and aiming position was put in place a few miles apart along the coast, whereas the battery was surrounded by an off-limits area, stuffed with bunkers for the troops, ammo storage bunkers, and lighter guns for protection against an attack by land.
A major difference between the two ‘sister sites’ of Fjell and Austratt is that in the latter the cannons are still there!
Following the installation of the turret, test fired in September 1943, the fort saw little action, acting as a deterrent, and effectively preventing any serious intrusion by the Allies towards Trondheim from the sea. After the demise of the Third Reich, the fort was taken over by the Norwegian coastal defense, stricken off in 1968, and restored as a museum in the early 1990s.
The cannons are on top of a hill. From the outside, the massive three-barreled turret is really impressive in size!
The barrels can be seen besides the original range-finder – with its impressive arm, granting good measuring accuracy even at a large distance from the target. This item, with its bell-shaped cover, was originally part of the control point, located southwest of the battery, in a location currently very close to an active base of the Norwegian Air Force (Orland).
Despite access to the the firing chamber being possible through a hatch to the back of the turret, the tour follows the way a shell would travel from storage to firing. Hence you start your tour from an entrance to the side of the hill, at the same level of the bottom of the cylindrical tower supporting the guns. This metal tower was taken from the Gneisenau together with the cannons, and put in a pit carved in the rock for the purpose in Austratt.
Access through the side of the hill is protected by a smaller gun. Once inside, you find yourself in a curvy corridor, with a narrow-gauge railway track for the trolleys needed to carry the shells and cartridges inside. A firing position behind an embrassure points against the entrance, for further protection of the site against an intrusion.
The bunker in Austratt – but the same happened to many installations of the Atlantic Wall in Norway – was plagued with severe humidity problems. Immediately besides the entrance, a room with a water basin is fed by natural water dripping from the ceiling and from the rocky walls around.
Original machines for tooling, put in place for maintenance purposes back in the Third Reich years, are still there and working. Similarly, a primary and a backup Diesel generators supplying the fort are still in place, with all ancillary plants, like big Diesel and water tanks for cooling. This is original machinery too, as witnessed by the tags of the mechanical components, all made in Germany.
Living quarters were at the bottom level too. Trying to supply some comfort, the rocky walls were covered with bricks and wood, especially against humidity. These rooms have been partly refurbished with a good resemblance to the original ones. They include the kitchen and some of the sleeping quarters for the troops. However, since humidity was really extreme, troops spent limited time here especially for sleeping, and provisional barracks were built outside of the installation instead.
Hygienic services were reportedly extremely advanced compared to Norwegian standards of the time. Fully working toilets, lavatories and showers were taken as a blueprint by the Norwegian Army after the war. The electric water heater put in place in the Austratt battery was apparently among the first installed in the whole Country – it can still be seen.
Explosive cartridges, fuses and shells arriving from the bunker entry you have walked through at the beginning of your tour would be eventually lifted upstairs. Shells, either high-yield explosive or armor-piercing, would be stored in a chamber featuring cranes hanging from the ceiling, used to put the shells on trolleys. These trolleys transported the shells to the lower level of the turret. The chamber where the shells were stored is physically separated by the turret by means of a concrete wall.
Tight compartments are often found in war bunkers of the Atlantic Wall, and this can be explained by the fact that the deadliest effect of an enemy shot (either a cannon shell from a warship, or an air-dropped bomb) would be that of an overpressure wave (shockwave), capable of killing many in just moments. Overpressure effects can be effectively reduced by putting physical obstacles on the way the shockwave would travel – walls, tight doors, etc. – or by forcing it into smaller passages, like hatches or smaller doors and windows. Therefore, bunkers like Austratt are built in rather small rooms, connected only through narrow hatches and doors.
Again in the storage chamber for the shells, extensive writing in German can be found on many of the mechanisms and electric plants. Everything is original and exceptionally well conserved, just like the Germans had just left!
The lowest level of the turret, where the shells would arrive from the storage chamber to be loaded on elevators going to the upper levels, is a masterpiece of engineering. The technical problem here was that of connecting the slides from the storage chamber, which are anchored to the ground, to the receiving slides on the turret, which could pivot around 360 degrees. The designer of the turret solved the issue by placing an intermediate ring, revolving independently, and capable of connecting the fixed slides from the storage chamber to the revolving platform on the turret. The extremely compact size of the overall design, originally prepared for fitting into a warship, and the elegance and precision of the mechanism resemble those of a pocket watch from the 1920s more than a cannon!
On the turret, you can see three elevators for the three barrels, which were therefore fed independently.
Going upstairs, you meet the storage room for the explosive cartridges. These used to be stored in sealed canisters on display, original from the time. This storage room is placed to the side of the corresponding level in the turret, in a similar fashion to the shells storage below.
Climbing up one more level inside the turret, you reach a platform with the motors for moving the battery around its vertical axis, and for lifting or lowering the three monster barrels. The motion involved high-pressure mechanisms, rather complex and requiring many valves and extensive piping.
To the back of each of the barrels, you can see a large empty volume for recoil. The battery rested on a ball bearing – one of the pretty sizable metal balls is on display.
Finally, the firing chamber can be found on the top level in the turret. Here the shells and cartridges were received, aligned and loaded from the back into the barrels by a pushing mechanical arm. Three independent mechanisms were put in place for the scope in the firing chamber.
You can exit the turret from the hatch to the back of the turret, concluding your tour. In the video below you can see a portrait of the battery from the air, made with a drone.
All in all, similar to the Vara battery (see above), Austratt is in an exceptional state of conservation in the Norwegian and European panorama of artillery engineering from WWII, and a visit may be super-interesting for any public.
Visiting
Despite being relatively close to Trondheim on a map, as usual in Norway, Austratt is a more than two hours drive from the town, and reaching requires taking at least one ferry. However, as noted, this location is a pinnacle in the Atlantic Wall, and surely deserves a visit for technicians and non-technical public as well, and of course for the kids.
Access to the exterior is possible at any time, but visiting inside is only possible on guided tours. The guide is very knowledgeable and makes the visit interesting also for a technically-minded public. The visit inside may take around 1 hour, more if you make questions and show some interest. Convenient parking by the gate of the fort, easy access to the area around the battery. Moving inside can be requiring for non-fit people.
As pointed out in the introduction to this chapter, Norway is rich of memorials from WWII. Even close to some of the attractions in this wonderful Country which are must-see stops for other reasons, features recalling memories from war actions are offered to a curious eye.
Two notable examples are the visitor center of the Arctic Circle along the E6, as well as that of North Cape.
Scandinavia has been a bloody and extremely active theater of war all along WWII, and Norway was directly involved in significant war actions since the first year of the conflict. As a matter of fact, most of the impressive line of fortifications constituting the Atlantic Wall was erected by deploying forced laborers, typically prisoners of war from the Eastern Front, primarily including Russians, other people from the USSR, and Balkan prisoners.
Soviet troops attacked the northernmost German-occupied region from the North, together with the Finns, after the latter negotiated a separate peace with the USSR in late 1944. The retreating Germans opposed a fierce resistance, and it was in this latest stage of the war that most physical damage to towns and installations was caused in Norway, since German troops were ordered to burn up all positions they had to leave.
These facts explain the many Soviet monuments and war cemeteries scattered especially in the northern part of Norway still today – commemorating Soviet soldiers fallen either in war actions or as prisoners of war in the harsh conditions of northern Norway.
One such monument, albeit overlooked, is prominently placed besides the visitor center of the Arctic Circle.
Soviet Memorial – Arctic Circle Visitor Center – WWII – Norway
Soviet Memorial – Arctic Circle Visitor Center – WWII – Norway
Soviet Memorial – Arctic Circle Visitor Center – WWII – Norway
The interest of Germany for Norway was primarily for its strategic position, which became an asset of special value after the start of the war against the USSR in mid-1941. The convoys feeding vital material to the USSR from Britain and the US had to go to Murmansk (see here) and the Kola Peninsula, i.e. over the Barents Sea. This was conveniently controlled by the German occupants, operating from the Norwegian coast.
In the visitor center of North Cape some panels are dedicated to this topic, showing an impression of the structure and routes followed by Allied convoys going to the USSR.
Polar Convoys to the USSR & Scharnhorst Exhibition – North Cape – Nordkapp – WWII – Norway
Polar Convoys to the USSR & Scharnhorst Exhibition – North Cape – Nordkapp – WWII – Norway
Polar Convoys to the USSR & Scharnhorst Exhibition – North Cape – Nordkapp – WWII – Norway
Polar Convoys to the USSR & Scharnhorst Exhibition – North Cape – Nordkapp – WWII – Norway
Polar Convoys to the USSR & Scharnhorst Exhibition – North Cape – Nordkapp – WWII – Norway
Polar Convoys to the USSR & Scharnhorst Exhibition – North Cape – Nordkapp – WWII – Norway
Polar Convoys to the USSR & Scharnhorst Exhibition – North Cape – Nordkapp – WWII – Norway
Detailed panels with maps and pictures recall the last battle of the German battleship Scharnhorst, which was confronted by the group of the British battleship HMS Duke of York, in an epic battle relatively close to North Cape. The massive German battleship, deployed to Norway with Tirpitz (a sister ship of the famous Bismarck) to block the resupply traffic to the USSR, was hit several times and finally sunk in the freezing last days of 1943. The battle was posthumously named ‘Battle of North Cape’. A detailed scaled model of the German battleship is similarly on display in the visitor center.
Polar Convoys to the USSR & Scharnhorst Exhibition – North Cape – Nordkapp – WWII – Norway
Polar Convoys to the USSR & Scharnhorst Exhibition – North Cape – Nordkapp – WWII – Norway
Polar Convoys to the USSR & Scharnhorst Exhibition – North Cape – Nordkapp – WWII – Norway
Polar Convoys to the USSR & Scharnhorst Exhibition – North Cape – Nordkapp – WWII – Norway
Polar Convoys to the USSR & Scharnhorst Exhibition – North Cape – Nordkapp – WWII – Norway
Visiting
The visitor center of the Arctic Circle on the road E6, with a small Soviet monument, can be found here. The monument is open 24/7.
The visitor center of North Cape is… at North Cape! The inside can be accessed during opening times, and the tables with information on WWII convoys and battles are on an underground mezzanine. Website with full information here.
War Museum – Narvik
The port town of Narvik was founded in the 19th century as a commercial base for exporting iron ore from Sweden. A small town by the sea, surrounded by steep-climbing mountains, and in a remote location well north of the Arctic Circle, Narvik was turned for about two months into a though theater of war for the Germans, following their occupation of Norway.
It was here that the British started a battle to stop the German push to the north, as soon as the 10th of April 1940, basically at the same time as the Germans had reached the town during their conquering campaign.
What resulted was a complex, multi-stage operation, lasting until early June 1940.
At first, the British fleet mounted a naval attack, carried out with a flotilla of five destroyers. This force clashed with the local German complement of ten destroyers. The British operation met with mixed success, and was finally repelled by the German navy operating in the narrow waters around Narvik, at the price of two destroyers on each side – plus several cargo ships destroyed in the battle. Three days later, on the 13th of April, a new force, composed of the British battleship HMS Warspite and 9 destroyers, launched another assault, resulting in the complete loss of the German destroyers fleet in the region – German warships were either sunk or scuttled.
The Germans however kept control of the town. A mixed force of British, Polish and French troops, together with the Norwegians, started an operation to conquer the town by land. The operation was successful, and the German troops had to retreat along the coast, away from Narvik. However, the start of the Battle of France – the invasion of France by the Third Reich – on the 10th of May, 1940, resulted in a rapid loss of priority of Narvik as a strategic target for the Allies. It was decided in Britain to withdraw from Norway, and to evacuate all previously landed military forces from Narvik. The town fell under German control on June 8th, basically concluding the conquer of Norway by the Third Reich.
The Allied landings around Narvik in 1940 where the first on the European continent in WWII, carried out without the participation of the US, more than three years before operations in southern Italy or Normandy.
The town of Narvik is still today an active commercial port of primary relevance in the region. The heritage of war actions is preserved in a purpose-installed museum, modernly designed and easy to visit.
On a first floor, the naval operations around Narvik are described by means of technological 3D board with virtual projections – very nice and lively. Around the board, memorabilia from the British and German warships taking part to the operations back in the Spring of 1940 have been put on display.
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
They include an original Nazi eagle from one of the ships. Since the campaign around Narvik included also air and land operations, war traces including parts of aircraft, guns, mortars, machine guns, first-aid kits and many uniforms are also on display.
Uniforms are from the many corps which took part to those actions – they are British, German, Polish and even French.
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
On a second floor, you are offered displays of artifacts retracing other aspects of WWII in Norway. These include land mines – put in place by the Germans along the coast, similar to Denmark, to impede Allied landings – an Enigma coding machine, Third Reich memorabilia, a section of the Tirpitz armored hull, radio machinery supplied to the resistance, as well as personal items belonging to former prisoners of war.
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
Finally, on the last floor heavier weapons are put on display, including torpedoes, light armored vehicles and more, even for post-WWII times.
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
Visiting
The battle of Narvik is one of the best known from WWII in Norway, and the little museum in the town center duly retraces its timeline, through an elegant exhibition, sufficiently rich to satisfy even the most exigent experts, but not so extensive to be boring for the general public. A really well designed museum, surely worth a visit, which may last from 30 minutes to 1 hour depending on your level of interest.
The location is right besides the town hall, and can be found here. Parking opportunities on the street nearby. Website with information here.
Tirpitz Museum – Alta
The German battleship Tirpitz was laid down as the only sister ship to the well-known Bismark. Eventually, she underwent developments which made her the heaviest battleship built in Europe. Her actions were concentrated along a limited time frame, between January 1942 and November 1944, when she was finally sunk by British Lancaster bombers, making use of Tallboy high-yield bombs.
She spent her operative life along the coasts of Norway, where she constituted an effective deterrent against a sea-launched Allied invasion, and was employed tactically against resupply convoys going to the USSR.
Tirpitz was a strategic target for the Allies, which tried to get rid of her by no less than seven war operations, meeting with limited success until the last one.
With an armor more than 30 cm thick, Tirpitz was marginally maneuverable especially at lower speed, but the hull was very difficult to penetrate, and the four turrets and eight 38 cm barrels, plus twelve side-shooting 15 cm barrels, complemented by many more defensive weapons, made it a dangerous asset against land and sea targets.
The ship capsized and sunk in shallow water in the bay of Tromso, and following the end of the war, she was largely dismantled. Original pieces of the ship could be collected, as well as some personal belongings from the crew. Some more were taken out from the water over the years.
The museum in Alta is dedicated to the memory of the ship, and offers an extremely rich collection of items connected with Tirpitz. Furthermore, by means of memorabilia items, it retraces the history of the war years in the northernmost region of Norway – Finnmark. The reason for installing the Tirpitz Museum in Kåfjord, near Alta, is bound to the fact that the battleship was based here for a period, as witnessed by some historical pictures. The museum has a rich guestbook, which includes top-ranking military staff from several Countries.
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
The small museum is home to some of the finest and largest scales models portraying Tirpitz. The level of detail and the accuracy of the reconstruction is really stunning.
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Some smaller diorama models portray scenes from the life onboard, or details of special interest. An unusual one portrays the capsized hull of the ship, following the sinking!
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Besides the scale models, original instrumentation, shells, wooden slabs from the deck, and more parts of the ship are put on display.
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
A room is dedicated to the operations carried out against the battleship. The ship was reportedly attacked several times without substantial damage. One of the attacks was carried out by the British, recurring to mini-submarines. Among the artifacts on display are the decorations to the men involved in these operations.
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Extremely interesting artifacts in the museum include material from the crew, taken away after the sinking over the years – sometimes found in the area as recently as the year 2000.
These include typewriters, cutlery with swastika emblems, musical instruments, sport suits with prominent Third Reich insignia, and many personal belongings.
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
In one case, the cabinet or wallet of a crewman revealed cash and stamps from the time.
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Among the countless items in this exhibition are original material – including radio stations – employed by the resistance movements in Norway, as well as light weapons, uniforms and decorations of the Soviet troops who operated in the Finnmark region, helping in repelling the Germans in the last stages of WWII.
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
On the outside, the anchor and parts of the armor of Tirpitz can be seen, together with an official memorial stone.
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Visiting
The museum is located some five miles from Alta, in the small settlement of Kåfjord. It is hosted in a single, small wooden building – possibly a former canteen – to be found here, with a small parking nearby. A website with full visiting information is here.
Visiting the museum may take from 30 minutes to 1 hour depending on your level of interest.
Vemork Hydroelectric Power Plant & Heavy Water Facility – Rjukan
The nuclear program of the Third Reich is still today a matter for researchers, since – mysteriously enough – most documentation disappeared by the end of the war. Among the ascertained facts were the excellence of nuclear scientist in Germany at the time on the one hand, and the total lack of adequate quantities of raw material, or plants for processing it, to actually build real nuclear weapons on the other.
The latter is witnessed by the great strategic value attributed to the plant in Rjukan, hidden in a scenic deep valley in the region of Telemark, in southern Norway, about three hours by car from Oslo. A hydroelectric plant there – the exact name is Vemork power-plant – was employed to produce heavy water through a dedicated electrolysis separation process, which requires huge amounts of energy. Heavy water is a key component for the production of Plutonium – in turn required for atomic weapons – in heavy-water reactors.
Also the Norwegians understood the value of the plant. As soon as the winds of war started blowing from Germany in early 1940, heavy water then in storage was taken away to France, and later to Britain following the invasion of France by the Third Reich.
After Norway had been occupied by the Reich, the plant was at the center of three sabotage operations. Extremely risky and partly ending in disaster, these operations were carried out both by Norwegian and British staff, parachuted from Britain.
It took until 1944 to mortally hit the plant, well protected by its own natural setting. Two dedicated bombing raids carried out by US bombers damaged the plant beyond repair – at least in the late war scenario, when the Third Reich reaction capacity was weakening every day. The final act in the Norwegian heavy water saga was the sinking of the small boat – named Hydro – loaded with the reserve of heavy water from Vemork, having just started its trip to Germany on Lake Tinn.
The plant was again in business in the years after the war, and remained operative until the early 1990s, involved in production of various chemicals.
Vemork Power Plant Heavy Water Rjukan – WWII – Norway
Vemork Power Plant Heavy Water Rjukan – WWII – Norway
Vemork Power Plant Heavy Water Rjukan – WWII – Norway
Vemork Power Plant Heavy Water Rjukan – WWII – Norway
Today, it is a much visited museum. Actually, the most impressive part of the plant is that of the hydroelectric turbines. Aligned in a single immense hangar, these now silent giant machinery send glimpses of the original, fashionable early-1900 industrial style.
Vemork Power Plant Heavy Water Rjukan – WWII – Norway
Vemork Power Plant Heavy Water Rjukan – WWII – Norway
Vemork Power Plant Heavy Water Rjukan – WWII – Norway
Vemork Power Plant Heavy Water Rjukan – WWII – Norway
Vemork Power Plant Heavy Water Rjukan – WWII – Norway
Vemork Power Plant Heavy Water Rjukan – WWII – Norway
Vemork Power Plant Heavy Water Rjukan – WWII – Norway
Vemork Power Plant Heavy Water Rjukan – WWII – Norway
Vemork Power Plant Heavy Water Rjukan – WWII – Norway
Vemork Power Plant Heavy Water Rjukan – WWII – Norway
Some of the turbines and generator assemblies – manufactured by AEG, as witnessed by the labels – are really huge.
Vemork Power Plant Heavy Water Rjukan – WWII – Norway
Vemork Power Plant Heavy Water Rjukan – WWII – Norway
Vemork Power Plant Heavy Water Rjukan – WWII – Norway
Vemork Power Plant Heavy Water Rjukan – WWII – Norway
Vemork Power Plant Heavy Water Rjukan – WWII – Norway
Vemork Power Plant Heavy Water Rjukan – WWII – Norway
Vemork Power Plant Heavy Water Rjukan – WWII – Norway
Vemork Power Plant Heavy Water Rjukan – WWII – Norway
A suspended platform allows to capture with a bird’s eye the entire hall. Here you can see also completely analog control panels, again in a very elegant style from the era.
Vemork Power Plant Heavy Water Rjukan – WWII – Norway
Vemork Power Plant Heavy Water Rjukan – WWII – Norway
Vemork Power Plant Heavy Water Rjukan – WWII – Norway
Visiting
The museum in Vemork can be reached in less than 3 hours driving from central Oslo. The power-plant can be approached walking from the parking (here) over a suspended bridge crossing the deep valley. The area is very scenic. The highlight of the show is the hall with the power turbines. A visit may take from a few minutes to more than 1 hour for more interested subjects.
A website with full information can be found here.
After the end of WWII and the collapse of the Third Reich, the territory now belonging to the Czech Republic fell on the Soviet side of the Iron Curtain. Together with today’s Slovakia, it formed the now disappeared unitary state of Czechoslovakia. Despite laying right on the border with the West – including Bavaria, which was part of West Germany and NATO – communist Czechoslovakia enjoyed a relative autonomy from the USSR, until the announced liberally-oriented reforms of the local communist leader Dubcek in the spring of 1968 triggered a violent reaction by the Soviet leader of the time, Leonid Brezhnev (see here). About 250’000 troops from the Warsaw Pact, including the USSR, landed in the Country. As a result, the Soviets established a more hardcore and USSR-compliant local communist regime, and largely increased their military presence.
Similar to the German Democratic Republic (see here for instance), Hungary (see here) or Poland (see here), since then also in Czechoslovakia the local national Army was flanked by a significant contingent of Soviet troops, who left only after the entire Soviet-fueled communist empire started to crumble, at the beginning of the 1990s.
Consequently, for the last two decades of the Cold War, Czechoslovakia was a highly militarized country similar to other ones in the Warsaw Pact (see here). Its geographical position on the border with the West meant it received supply for a high-technology anti-aircraft barrier (see here). Two major airbases in Czechoslovakia were taken over for use by the Soviets and strongly potentiated (see here).
Soviet Nuclear Depots in Czechoslovakia
Beside conventional forces, also nuclear warheads were part of the arsenal deployed in this Country. Where in the late 1960s Soviet strategic nuclear forces were already mostly based on submarine-launched missiles and ICBMs ground-launched from within the USSR’s borders, tactical forces were forward-deployed to satellite countries, to be readily operative in case of war in Europe. Missile systems like the SCUD, Luna (NATO: Frog) and Tochka (NATO: Scarab) were deployed to the Warsaw Pact, supplying either the local Armies or the Soviet forces on site. Typically armed with conventional warheads, these systems were compatible with nuclear warheads too, making them more versatile, and of great use in case of a war against NATO forces in central and western Europe (see here).
Irrespective of their employment by a local national Army or a Soviet missile force, nuclear warheads were kept separated from the rest of the missile system for security, and invariably under strict and exclusive Soviet control. Bunker sites were purpose built in all components of the Warsaw Pact for storing nuclear warheads – see page 46 of this CIA document, showing with some accuracy the location of the corresponding bases.
Granit– and Basalt-type bunkers were typically prepared on airfields or artillery bases, for short-term storage of soon-to-be-launched nuclear weapons. Instead, top-security Monolith-type bunkers (the triangles on the map in the CIA document) were intended for long-term storage of nuclear ordnance.
Monolith-type bunkers were built by local companies on a standard design in the Soviet military inventory, and were implemented in satellite Countries in the late 1960s. Czechoslovakia received three such sites, which took the names Javor 50, by the town of Bílina, Javor 51, close to Míšov, and Javor 52, close to the town of Bělá pod Bezdězem. All three locations are in the north-western regions of today’s Czech Republic.
The Soviet military started withdrawing the nuclear warheads from satellite Countries in 1989, months before the collapse of the wall in Berlin. As for Czechoslovakia, by 1990 all nuclear forces had been moved back to the USSR. Following the end of the Cold War, Monolith-bunkers – similar to most of the colossal inventory of forward-deployed military installations formerly set up by the Soviet Union – were declared surplus by the Countries where they had been implemented.
These primary relics of the Cold War have known since then different destinies. Some of them have been hastily demolished, and together with their associated fragments of recent history, they have almost completely disappeared into oblivion. Luckily, a few are currently still in private hands, and still in existence (see here and here) – specimens of recent military technology, and a vivid memento from recent history, when the map of Europe looked very different from now. Two can be visited, of which one is Javor 51, in the Czech Republic, the main topic of this post. This has been turned into the ‘Atom Museum’, which has the distinction of being the only Monolith-type site in the world offering visits on a regular schedule (the other open site is Podborsko, in Poland, covered here, which is open by appointment).
Also displayed in the following are some pictures of the now inaccessible site Javor 52 in former Czechoslovakia. Photographs were taken in 2020 (Javor 52) and 2022 (Javor 51).
Sights
Javor 51 – The Atom Museum, Míšov
An exceptionally well preserved and high-profile witness of the Cold War, the nuclear depot Javor 51 is a good example of a Monolith-type installation. These bases were centered around two identical semi-interred bunkers for nuclear warheads.
When starting a visit, you will soon make your way to the unloading platform of bunker Nr.1. The shape of the metal canopy, and the small control booth with glass windows overlooking the platform are pretty unique to this site. The metal wall fencing the unloading area is still in its camo coat outside, and greenish paint inside. Caution writings in Russian are still clearly visible. Concrete slabs clearly bear the date of manufacture – 1968. This site was reportedly activated on the 26th of December, 1968.
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Even the lamps look original. Some of the – likely – tons of material left by the Soviets on the premises of this site has been put on display ahead of the massive bunker door.
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
The opening mechanism of the latter is a nice work of mechanics. Four plugs actually lock or unlock the door. They can be moved by means of a manual crank, or likely in the past via an electric mechanism (some wiring is still visible). The thickness of the doors is really impressive (look for the cap of my wide lens on the ground in a picture below for comparison!).
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Each bunker had two ground-level entrances to the opposite ends, each with two blast-proof doors in a sequence. Warheads were transported by truck, unloaded beside the entrance of one of the two bunkers, and carried inside through the two doors, which constituted an air-tight airlock.
Today, you can see the inside main hall of the bunkers from the outside during a visit. This was likely not the case in the days of operation. The opening procedure required a request signal to travel all the way to Moscow, and a trigger signal traveling in the opposite direction. Once past the first (external) door with the warhead trolley, that door was shut, and the procedure was repeated for the second door, giving access to the inside of the bunker.
A security trigger told Moscow when the door was open. It can still be seen hanging from top of the door frame.
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Once inside, you find yourself on a suspended concrete platform. The warhead trolley had to be lowered via a crane – still in place – to the bottom of the cellar ahead, i.e. to the underground level. The stairs now greatly facilitating visitor’s motion around the bunker were not in place back then, and descending to the underground level for the technicians was via a hatch in the floor of the suspended platform, and a ladder close to the side wall.
On the platform, an original Soviet-made air conditioning system can be seen – with original labeling – and signs in Russian are on display on the walls.
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
The platform is also a vantage point to see the extensive array of heat-exchangers put along a sidewall of the central hall – atmosphere control was of primary importance for the relatively delicate nuclear warheads. Each of them traveled and was kept in a pressurized canister. However, also the storage site was under careful atmospheric control.
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
To the opposite end of the bunker, the inner tight door of the second entrance can be clearly seen, ahead of another suspended platform. The warheads left the bunker for maintenance (they might have left also for use, but this never happened, except possibly on drills) from that entrance, which had a loading platform outside for putting the warheads on trucks (this can be better seen in other Monolith sites, like Urkut in Hungary, or Stolzenhain in Germany).
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Down on the lower level, the main bunker hall gives access to one side to four big cellars, where the warheads spent their time in storage, and to the other sides to technical rooms. The pavement in the storage cellars features the original metal strongpoints, used to anchor the trolleys for the warheads to the ground. This was in case of a shockwave investing the site in an attack, to avoid the trolleys moving and crashing against one another. The original hooks with spherical joints to link the trolley to the strongpoints are also on display.
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
The storage cellars today have been used to display informative panels, with many interesting pictures and schemes. These include some from major sites connected with the history of nuclear weaponry in the Soviet Union (like from the test site of Semipalatinsk) and the US (like the Titan Museum near Tucson, AZ, covered in this post).
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
A few former technical rooms are used to store much original technical gear. This ranges from spare parts, tools and personal gear like working suits left by the Soviets (most with signs in Russian), to items ‘Made in Czechoslovakia’ or even radiation detectors from Britain and the West, gathered here for display and comparison.
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Some of these spare parts are wrapped and sealed in Russian, looking like they were cataloged back in the time of operations.
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
In the main hall, many rare vintage pictures retrace the presence of Soviet military forces on this site as well as others in Czechoslovakia. Magnified copies of rare pictures portray the trucks, canisters and the very warheads likely involved in transport and storage in Javor 51. Actually, much mystery exists around the deployment of nuclear ordnance by the USSR outside its borders (not only to Czechoslovakia). Historical and technical information today made available, even to a dedicated public, is very limited, making this chapter of Cold War history even more intriguing.
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Again in the central hall, cabinets for monitoring the nuclear warheads can be seen hanging from the walls, painted in blue. Each warhead used to be stored in a canister, which was periodically linked to these cabinets to check the inner atmosphere, temperature, etc., in order to monitor the health of its very sensitive content.
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
A large part of the technical/living rooms has been preserved in its original appearance. You can see parts of an air conditioning system, a big water tank, a toilet, a now empty bedroom for the troops. The bunker was constantly manned inside by typically six people, who operated in shifts. They did not sleep there, nor used the toilet much due to poor drainage. However, these facilities were used in drills, and were intended for the case of real war operations, when the bunker might have been sealed from the outside.
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
The electric cabinets take a dedicated room, like the huge air filters and pumps (Soviet made), installed to grant survival of the people inside the bunker in case of an attack with nuclear weapons or other special warfare. Clearly, the level of safety in the design of the bunker stemmed from the fact that it was considered by the Soviet as a a strategic target for NATO forces.
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
The last technical rooms host a big Diesel generator, supplied with air from the outside, and a big fuel tank in an adjoining room. Many labels bear writings in Russian, but the generator appears to be made in Czechoslovakia. The bunker was linked to the usual electric power grid of the region, and the generator was intended for emergency operations, in case the grid was lost or the bunker was isolated.
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
From the technical area, it was possible to access or exit the bunker, via a human-size airlock. The innermost tight door can be seen painted in yellow, with a locking mechanism resembling that of the major tight doors for the missile warheads. Outside the airlock, climbing three levels of ladders was required to get to the surface. This was the normal access to the bunker for the military technical staff, except when warheads arrived or left the storage (this was made via the major entrances, as explained).
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Back outside, the second bunker, Nr.2, can be found at a short distance from the former. Nr.2 is being prepared for an exhibition on technology. At the time of writing, it can be toured except for the technical/living rooms. It is in a very good condition, and allows to get similar details as the previous Nr.1 on the construction of this type of facility – including the heating/air conditioning system.
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
The blue cabinets for plugging the canister for routine status checking and maintenance can be found also in Nr.2 in good shape.
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Clearly visible here are the doors closing the technical areas and the warhead cellars. The latter were monitored for security just like the external airtight doors of the bunker, each with a sensor telling controllers whether the cellar was locked or not.
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
The airlock is covered in soot, possibly the result of a fire. Ahead of the entrance, the unloading platform is very interesting, having a unique set of light doors which had to be opened to allow trucks to come in. The concrete part of the platform appears slightly off-standard, with a short lateral concrete ramp, giving access to the main platform from one side. Parts of missiles – original – are being gathered in this area for display.
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Monolith sites include two bunkers, which are the core of a strongly defended fenced area. In Javor 51, fences except the external one have been removed for the safety of visitors (rusty barbed wire can be very dangerous). These can still be found in other similar installations (see here). Similarly, the troops and technicians working on site lived in purpose-built housing, segregated from local communities. In Javor 51, this housing still exists, but cannot be visited.
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Leaving the place, you can visit the nice visitor/gathering center, and even find some interesting souvenirs!
Getting there and visiting
All in all, the Atom Museum prepared at Javor 51 is a top destination for everybody interested in the history of the Cold War, nuclear warfare, Soviet history, military history, etc.
Credit goes to the owner of the place, Dr. Vaclav Vitovec, who is leading this remarkable preservation effort, and is a very knowledgeable and enthusiastic guide to the site for those visiting. Dr. Vitovec is also the owner of the border museum in Rozvadov, covered in this post.
The Javor 51 site is actually fairly well known at least to a dedicated public, having been visited by historians, scientists and notable figures – including Francis Gary Powers, Jr., who is very active in preserving the history of the Cold War.
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
The commitment of the museum’s managers is witnessed also by the nice website (also in English), where you can sign-up for a visit on pre-arranged days – as of 2022, all Saturdays in the warm season – or contact the staff for setting up a personalized visit. It is nice to see a good involvement by the local population (the great majority of visitors on regular visits are Czech), including many from younger generations. The exhibits tell much on the peaceful use of nuclear energy, and this is a major topic in the guided tour in Czech. Actually, the Czech Republic has a strong nuclear tradition, with many power plants in use, and a commitment for the development of nuclear energy in the future.
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
The location is around 25 miles southeast of Plzen, or 60 miles southwest of Prague. Easy to reach by car. The exact address is Míšov 51, 33563 Míšov, Czechia. Full info on their website. Visiting on a normal scheduled visit is on a partly-guided basis, meaning that you will get an intro (in Czech) of around 40 minutes, than you will be allowed to access the bunkers and visit on your own, for all the time you like. You might end up spending more than 2 hours checking out the site and everything is in it, if you have a special interest for the topic. Dr. Vitovec is fluent in English, and can provide much information upon request.
Javor 52 – Bělá pod Bezdězem
The Monolith-type site Javor 52 has been willingly demolished, likely by the Government of the Czech Republic, as it was the case for most other similar (or more in general, Soviet-related) sites in Poland and Germany.
However, it was hard to get completely rid of any trace of an installation so bulky and reinforced. Therefore, some remains can still be found and explored.
Some technical buildings still in use close to the bunkers may have been there from the days of operation.
Getting close to the bunker area, traces of the multiple fences originally around the site can be found, either in the trees or in the vicinity of unmaintained roads. Wooden or concrete posts with fragments of barbed wire are clearly visible. Also reinforced concrete shooting points can be spotted in the wild vegetation.
As typical, two bunkers were erected on site, and similarly to Javor 51 (see above), in Javor 52 they are aligned, with the entrances all along the same ideal orientation.
The bunkers in Javor 52 have been interred, so that they are now hardly noticeable from the outside, except to a careful eye. Looking inside the eastern one, it is possible to get a view of the open doors of the main airlock, providing a distant view of the inner main hall.
The western bunker is in a better general condition, and the main hall still retains a pretty unique writing in Russian. The ladder descending from the suspended platform has been substituted with a posthumous, regular ladder. Much metalwork has disappeared though, including the heat exchangers, the crane, and the tight doors.
Between the bunkers, a concrete pool can be found – still watertight! – with a function which is hard to guess. A pool for civil use was installed in Stolzenhain (and reportedly also in Javor 52, but I had not the time to watch out for it), but this was in the low-security of the site, far from the bunkers.
Access to this place is possible without violating any property sign, but is clearly not encouraged. Going unnoticed is made tricky by the presence of a public facility nearby – a shelter for foreigners and some education activity. Parking out of sight is possible along the road 27235, north of the complex and to the west of the road – trailheads and corresponding parking areas can be found there. Check out some satellite map to find a way to the exact location of the bunkers – their respective entrances are approximately here (eastern bunker) and here (western bunker).
I visited the site in 2020, and the entrances appeared very dangerous and easy to seal in a permanent way. I do not have any further update, but would suggest to go prepared to find definitively interred and totally inaccessible bunkers.
Javor 50 – Bílina – Quick note
As of 2020, the site of Javor 50 is in a peculiar state of ‘conservation’. The place is closed to the public, but entering would be basically unimpeded, since the external fence to the former military base is mostly collapsed and interrupted. The Soviet quarters insider still have much to offer – including writing in Russian, a scheme of the base, and much more. Likely, the bunkers are also still in a relatively good shape.
Much surprisingly though, somebody is living there with watchdogs, in miserable conditions, keeping visitors out. It is likely that an official visit may be booked by getting in touch with the municipality, since it appears that the site is not used for anything. However I was not successful in connecting with anybody there, therefore I have no suggestion on this point. The of the main entrance is here.
The area around Jüterbog, about 1 hour and 15 minutes south of Berlin by car, has enjoyed a long military tradition, dating from the years of the Kaiser and WWI, through the Third Reich and all the more than four decades of the Cold War, until the departure of the Soviet Army in the early 1990s.
Almost for the entire duration of the 20th century, the area has been scattered with barracks, immense training grounds, shooting ranges, officer’s houses, army administration buildings, technical depots, airports and military academies.
The town of Jüterbog is actually much older than the 20th century, but the Soviets, who grew to a much greater population than the Germans in town after 1945, did not pay much attention to this nice medieval town. Following their withdrawal and the end of all military operations around, the town center received substantial money for restoration from the Government of reunified Germany, and the result is really remarkable – Jüterbog is today possibly one of the most lively and nice-looking centers in the region, with medieval towers, gates and churches, hotels, restaurants and bright-painted houses all around.
However, one hundred years of military activities in this province could not be wiped out at once, and despite nature is now invading the old army premises after operations ceased, to a careful eye the heritage of the German and Soviet Armies stationed there can be spotted quite easily, immediately out the lovely historical town.
Perhaps the most prominent witnesses of the past activities are the old flight academy, installed in the Third Reich years and later employed also by the Soviets, who got control of the area after they arrived in 1945, and kept it even after the foundation of the GDR and the corresponding Armed Forces (i.e. the Nationale Volksarmee, or NVA). The flight academy is today a listed building, despite in a state of partial disrepair. Another example is the big airbase of Jüterbog/Altes Lager, which went on operating as an NVA and Soviet airbase until the very end of the Cold War, and is now being used as a sport airfield, a kart circuit track, an event venue and a solar power plant.
In the following report, more locations in and around Jüterbog are pinpointed, photographed during two visits, partly guided by the knowledgeable Dr. Reiner Helling, in the Summer seasons of 2021 and 2022.
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The material in this post covers ‘Shelter Albrecht’, a one-of-a-kind private collection of items from WWII and especially from Soviet times, more views of the former airfield of Altes Lager, with a Granit bunker still in very good conditions, an abandoned military hospital with evident traces of Soviet operations, a Soviet cemetery, and a few more items, silent and overlooked witnesses of a recently bygone era.
The airbase of Jüterbog/Altes Lager was selected by the Soviets for further development with the arrival of jets in the late 1940s-early 1950s, and grew to be a prominent attack aircraft and helicopter base in the territory of the GDR. Now reduced in size to the point that some taxiways have been turned into public roads, some of the incredibly many aircraft shelters originally in place in the peripheral parts of the base – mostly AU-16 – have been wiped out. However, a set of two to the east of the runway have been spared this fate, and have been redeemed by a private business. One has been turned into a venue for events, whereas the other has been employed to showcase a great collection of WWII and Cold War memorabilia. Actually, the two hangars are located inside a somewhat larger perimeter, with an original technical building and room for even more exhibits.
A first impressive sight is the original Soviet scheme of the base. Similar signs were typically put close to the gate of any Soviet base (as seen for instance here in Ribnitz/Damgarten), and with their Russian writings today they witness the Soviet tenancy of the base.
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
On the apron, an original military version of the ubiquitous Trabant, in army green color, is on display together with a field kitchen and a gigantic roadwork machine. The latter is Russian made, with tank tracks, and powered by a 12-cylinder Diesel engine.
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
A Mil Mi-2 helicopter, which for some hard-to-imagine reason had ended up on the Adriatic coast of Italy in a private collection, where it sat almost derelict, has been brought back to the other side of the Iron Curtain, and restored in a camo coat and placed in a prominent position. Not far, a wing from an old Lavochin La-5 Soviet aircraft can be found.
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Still on the open air exhibition are a decorated panel once gracing a Soviet hospital – possibly the one described later (here) – and another celebrating the Warsaw Pact. But the exhibits are really countless, and include propaganda posters, and canisters for ordnance.
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
To the side of the main exhibition hangar, in the area of an interred fuel tank once serving the base, is an incredible set of Soviet panels, originally from this or other Soviet bases around. These panels are partly decoration/celebration signs, with portraits of Soviet soldiers and emblems.
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Other are technically-themed, with explanations concerning driving habits and rules, hand-to-hand combat, and more. Similar items, including fake targets for assault training, can be found for instance in Forst Zinna, an abandoned Soviet base not far from Jüterbog (covered here).
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Also part of the collection is a rare mural, apparently retracing the push to the west of a Soviet division (?) during the Great Patriotic War.
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Inside, the aircraft shelter is stuffed with interesting memorabilia. From WWII, exhibits include remains of downed aircraft, including damaged engines, propellers and canopies. Among them are remains of an Avro Lancaster, a Focke-Wulf 190, a Junkers Ju-87 and the canopy of a pretty rare training (two-seats) version of the Messerschmitt Bf-109.
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Four large scale models cover as many interesting sights around. The first is the former flight academy of the Third Reich (mentioned above and covered here), north of the Altes Lager airbase premises. Also on display are books and furniture originally from the library of the academy.
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
A second model portrays the entire area between the academy (north) and the airfield (south), including the latter. This area, now largely shrouded in the trees and partially in private hands, used to host technical installations and even factories connected with warfare business – all linked by an extensive network of roads and railways.
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Another model is that of two airship hangars from the years of German tenancy. These had to be really huge, but are today completely gone. Among the factories in place in the area, were those for supplying gas for the airships.
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Finally, a fourth scale model represents the older airfield of Jüterbog/Damm. The latter is not far from Altes Lager, and is today in private hands for some cattle breeding business. It features very peculiar concrete hangars, an interesting specimen of Third Reich construction engineering. Some aerial pictures can be found here. That airfield was not selected for further development by the Soviets, due to the limited potential for runway lengthening, in turn due to the proximity with Jüterbog town.
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Soviet-related items on display range from painted tables, originally gracing the walls of the base, to technical signs in Russian, to a full array of personal and military items, all belonging to the Soviet staff stationed in Jüterbog. These include an interesting overall map of the Soviet airfields on GDR territory, with basic technical data.
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Among the highlights, an official printed portrait of Stalin, and one of Brezhnev in a military uniform, parachutes and parts from attack aircraft, many direction signs and instructional panels for low-ranking military staff. Also very interesting is a radar scope with the three air corridors to West-Berlin and the position of Altes Lager printed on it!
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Of special interest for aircraft enthusiasts are many pictures from the days of operation of the airbase, with many exotic Soviet aircraft seen landing, departing or taxiing around.
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Other panels tells about the presence of rocket forces in the area of Jüterbog – in particular the 27th R.Br. of the NVA. They operated the SCUD-B system.
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Back outside, the exhibition is completed by an original monument from Altes Lager, often employed as a background for official ceremonies, and more personal memorabilia of the owner of the museum, formerly serving within a tank division of the NVA.
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Reconstructed shops and schools are on display, with much original furniture and everyday items of Soviet make.
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Shelter Albrecht – Jüterbog – Altes Lager – Soviet Cold War and WWII memorabilia collection
Getting there and Visiting
The place is really worth a visit for everybody interested in memorabilia items from Soviet times, or for those looking for tangible traces of the military past of Jüterbog. The location is easy to reach by car, with a convenient internal parking. The address is Niedergörsdorfer Allee 4, 14913 Niedergörsdorf, Germany.
An updated official website with opening times is apparently not available. However, Mr. Helmut Stark, the owner of the place, may be contacted beforehand (in German only) to inquire about opening times and plan a visit – try Googling his name and that of the site for updated contacts. The place is regularly open at least in the weekends in the warm season. A visit to this site will be likely with Mr. Stark following you and giving explanations in German. This will take about 45 minutes.
Granit Bunker and Hangars in Jüterbog/Altes Lager
Some views of the Altes Lager airbase are provided in this chapter, and some aerial views can be seen here. The huge, flat-top hangars date from the Third Reich era, and similarly the control tower with its annexes. Some of the hangars were reportedly dismounted by the Soviets and taken to the Soviet Union soon after the end of WWII.
Jüterbog Altes Lager Abandoned Soviet Base Bunker Granit Cold War Nuclear Warheads
Jüterbog Altes Lager Abandoned Soviet Base Bunker Granit Cold War Nuclear Warheads
Jüterbog Altes Lager Abandoned Soviet Base Bunker Granit Cold War Nuclear Warheads
Jüterbog Altes Lager Abandoned Soviet Base Bunker Granit Cold War Nuclear Warheads
Jüterbog Altes Lager Abandoned Soviet Base Bunker Granit Cold War Nuclear Warheads
Jüterbog Altes Lager Abandoned Soviet Base Bunker Granit Cold War Nuclear Warheads
Jüterbog Altes Lager Abandoned Soviet Base Bunker Granit Cold War Nuclear Warheads
Besides all the aircraft shelters scattered all around the runway, a relevant and pretty secluded Soviet addition north of the airfield is a Soviet Granit-type bunker. This type of bunker was among the lightest in Soviet inventory, and could serve multiple purposes, e.g. storing movable radar trucks, tanks, other machinery, or weapons. Actually, its presence on an airfield may suggest the purpose of storing special air-dropped weapons, maybe tactical nuclear, high-explosive or chemical ordnance.
Jüterbog Altes Lager Abandoned Soviet Base Bunker Granit Cold War Nuclear Warheads
Jüterbog Altes Lager Abandoned Soviet Base Bunker Granit Cold War Nuclear Warheads
Jüterbog Altes Lager Abandoned Soviet Base Bunker Granit Cold War Nuclear Warheads
Jüterbog Altes Lager Abandoned Soviet Base Bunker Granit Cold War Nuclear Warheads
Jüterbog Altes Lager Abandoned Soviet Base Bunker Granit Cold War Nuclear Warheads
Jüterbog Altes Lager Abandoned Soviet Base Bunker Granit Cold War Nuclear Warheads
Jüterbog Altes Lager Abandoned Soviet Base Bunker Granit Cold War Nuclear Warheads
Jüterbog Altes Lager Abandoned Soviet Base Bunker Granit Cold War Nuclear Warheads
Jüterbog Altes Lager Abandoned Soviet Base Bunker Granit Cold War Nuclear Warheads
Bunkers of Granit-type are possibly the most frequent special constructions in former Soviet bases (see for instance here or here), but the one in Jüterbog is interesting since it is very well conserved, and its massive metal doors are still perfectly in place, providing a nice impression of how this technical item should have looked like in the days of operation.
Getting there and Visiting
The airport of Altes Lager is today pretty busy, with several companies having taken over much of its original premises now open for business. Multiple access points are available, and chances of looking inside the original installations are many. Given the still exceptional state of conservation of the Granit bunker, in order to protect this rare historical artifact from the impressive hordes of catatonic idiot spoilers and writers out there, no indication is provided on its exact location.
Military Hospital
Among the buildings now shrouded by the overgrown vegetation in the area between Jüterbog/Altes Lager airfield and the town of Jüterbog is a sizable military hospital. Totally invisible from the road, the hospital is basically made of a single, building featuring three long interconnected rows.
It is made of the typical German dark-red brick, a design which is way too elegant for Soviet occupants. The arrangement of the facade and the nice railings suggest a construction date from the years of the Kaiser and the German Empire, maybe early 20th century.
However, the years of Soviet use are witnessed by a big mural, portraying Lenin with some Soviet soldiers in the background, with a black and yellow striped ribbon and a red star, emblems of the Red Army.
The aura is very silent and mysterious, and as such, this location is a mecca for urban explorers. Actually, the only noise came from a fast spinning ventilation fan in a window frame! This was pushed by an air stream however, not likely by a motor…
Some more buildings complete this complex, and original GDR-style lamps can still be seen around – the tall trees now surrounding the building were likely not in place when the hospital was closed, presumably in the early 1990s.
Not difficult to find in the trees between Jüterbog and the airfield of Altes Lager, there is no clear interdiction sign to access this complex from behind, yet vibration sensors planted in the ground can be spotted around, and some security cars can be seen sometimes parked on the main road. A walk around the hospital is not especially dangerous nor difficult, and may take about 25 minutes taking all the pictures. The building is architecturally nice and possibly listed. Yet it is in partial disrepair and largely sealed, and getting in is obviously not advisable.
Soviet Cemetery
The only relic of the years of Soviet occupation which is immediately visible to the general public in Jüterbog is the Soviet military cemetery. This is located to the back of the Liebfrauenkirche, in the historical center of Jüterbog.
Actually, a monumental part, with railings embellished with hammer and sickle emblems and a monument with writings in German and Russian to the back, is detached from the church yard.
Jüterbog Soviet Cemetery Friedhof
Jüterbog Soviet Cemetery Friedhof
Jüterbog Soviet Cemetery Friedhof
Jüterbog Soviet Cemetery Friedhof
Jüterbog Soviet Cemetery Friedhof
Jüterbog Soviet Cemetery Friedhof
However, possibly in later times, the limited space available in the lot originally planned for the monument meant some graves were dug right in the church graveyard, side by side – but not mixed – with German graves.
Jüterbog Soviet Cemetery Friedhof
Jüterbog Soviet Cemetery Friedhof
Jüterbog Soviet Cemetery Friedhof
Jüterbog Soviet Cemetery Friedhof
Jüterbog Soviet Cemetery Friedhof
Jüterbog Soviet Cemetery Friedhof
Jüterbog Soviet Cemetery Friedhof
Jüterbog Soviet Cemetery Friedhof
Getting there and Visiting
The exact address is Am Dammtor, 14913 Jüterbog, Germany. The place is well-kept, being part of the historical city center of Jüterbog. Parking opportunities all around on the street. A visit may take 10 minutes.
Railway Yard, School and Command Building
The town of Jüterbog acted as a ‘local capital’ for the many Soviet troops and their families scattered in the corresponding district. The hospital (see above) was not the only large installation in place. A district school was also installed, which served not only the very town of Jüterbog – with a Russian-speaking population of more than 70.000, greater than the German nationals – but also the residing Soviet population of smaller technical installations in the area. A notable example is the impressive nuclear depot in Stolzenhain (see here), where a dedicated staff and their families occupied four residential blocks now gone. Their children reportedly attended school in Jüterbog.
The school is today largely abandoned, and a quick tour around reveals typical Soviet decorations in the large sporting hall.
Jüterbog Soviet School Abandoned Cold War Relic
Jüterbog Soviet School Abandoned Cold War Relic
Jüterbog Soviet School Abandoned Cold War Relic
Jüterbog Soviet School Abandoned Cold War Relic
The school building is geographically close to the railway station. The latter had a passenger terminal dedicated to the Soviet population, which was completely segregated from the German one.
Furthermore, the railway in Jüterbog had also a primary logistic function, connected with the military activities going on in the area. Besides transporting tanks, vehicles and other material, also nuclear warheads arrived by rail from Belarus or Ukraine (both in the USSR at the time), for storage in the Stolzenhain Monolith-type bunkers (see here). A special railway track with a dead end in the trees featured a special interchange platform, allowing to move the sensitive warheads in their controlled canisters to trucks, and by road to Stolzenhain – usually at night. Since warheads were also sent back for maintenance or overhaul, the transport operated also in the opposite direction.
Jüterbog Railway Track Station
Jüterbog Railway Track Station
Very close to the railway station and the school is also a large grassy area, surrounded by a nice, old-style metal fence. This area is that of an older training ground, dating to the years of the Kaiser. A command building, now in disrepair, betrays the same origin, featuring decorations in a typical old-German style.
Jüterbog Command Building Abandoned Relic
Jüterbog Command Building Abandoned Relic
Jüterbog Command Building Abandoned Relic
Getting there and Moving around
The school can be found in Jüterbog here. Cross the street from the school, the old training grounds and command building are immediately spotted. Walking north past the command building, you get access to a pedestrian bridge over the railway tracks, with a nice view of the station. An exploration of the railway tracks has to be considered extremely dangerous, since the railway line there is today a high-speed one, with bullet-fast trains appearing in just seconds. A walk around this spot in Jüterbog may take 15 minutes. Parking opportunities ahead of the command building.
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Soviet Ghosts in Germany
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Most Soviet bases in the former territory of the German Democratic Republic met with oblivion following the departure of their Red Army tenants back to mainland Russia, in the early 1990s.
Most locations – including full scale airbases (see here, here or here), infantry academies and shooting ranges (see here) and nuclear warhead bunkers (see here) – have been returned to nature, demolished or converted into something else. Much on this website documents this hidden part of the Cold War heritage in Germany.
However, there exist exceptions, like the airbase of Grossenhain with its preserved Granit-type bunker (see here), or the central Soviet headquarters of Wünsdorf (see here).
Another notable exception is that of the former Third Reich, and later Soviet, airbase of Ribnitz-Damgarten. Following an exploration in a day of closure in 2016 (documented here), the site was visited again legit, this time accessing the unique Museum of Technology of Pütnitz. The museum collection is very nice in itself, covering both civil and military vehicles from the DDR age, as well as heavy Soviet military vehicles, and even a few boats and aircraft from the Eastern bloc.
The museum is hosted in a complex of hangars dating from the years of the Third Reich, when the airbase of Ribnitz was active for experimenting with seaplanes, and busy with a facility of the Heinkel aircraft manufacturing company. These concrete hangars are still standing today, undoubtedly an example of German engineering excellence.
The Soviets made good use of this facility, and Ribnitz-Damgarten became a very active base on the Baltic coast for the full span of the Cold War – until the withdrawal of the then-Russian troops, who used this airport as the springboard for their final hop to their new home in Russia.
A further reason to pay a visit to Ribnitz-Damgarten is the chance to assist to the one-of-a-kind reunion and live exhibition of preserved vehicles from the Soviet bloc. Held in the summer, this ‘Treffen’ (i.e. reunion) is really worth the effort of setting up a trip, even when visiting from abroad. It is a multi-day event, and possibly the largest meeting of aficionados of cars, motorcycles and trucks from the communist world, with the chance to see all this good old technology at work, i.e. spitting and thick-smoking, all around the base. Chance is that you will drive on the original Soviet runway to reach the event parking!
Besides this yearly event, the museum offers live demonstrations of military vehicles on a more regular schedule.
The present post and photographs cover a visit to the Technology Museum of Pütnitz in occasion of the reunion of Eastern Europe vehicles held in late August 2021.
Sights
Museum of Technology of Pütnitz
The museum of Pütnitz has taken over the hangars of the old Third Reich base to the west of the airfield of Ribnitz-Damgarten. These hangars are pretty interesting from an architectural standpoint. By using large and curved concrete frames, the inside volume is extremely big for the time. As a matter of fact, they were kept in use for decades, since they could match the size of larger aircraft and vehicles of the Cold War.
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
These hangars are just a handful, but complemented by smaller (regular size…) hangars they provide for a very large display area, wisely adopted by the museum for its exhibits.
One of the hangars is dedicated to the NVA, i.e. of the Armed Forces of the former GDR. Among the many artifacts on display, are a MiG-21 fighter, the skeleton of an Antonov An-2 transport, and a Mil-8 helicopter. The latter has been placed in a suspended position, with a mechanism to rotate its rotors!
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
In the same hangar you can find a pretty extensive collection of light armored vehicles, technical amphibious vehicles as well as full-scale tanks formerly in use with the NVA in different stages of the Cold War.
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
A smaller area is dedicated to a display of NVA uniforms, GDR emblems and medals, uniforms of youth organizations within the GDR, as well as detailed scale models of war material in the arsenal of the USSR or the GDR over the years.
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
A second smaller hangar hosts trucks of Soviet make, formerly used by – presumably – the NVA. Some are especially interesting, since they were used as missile transports, and are on display with their original trailers and… payload! Also trucks transporting Soviet-made radar antennas, for air target capture or anti-aircraft missile guidance, are on display.
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
To the back of the same hangar, a super-interesting collection of material connected with nuclear warfare is on display. In particular, field instrumentation for measuring radiation levels, dosimeters, anti-radiation suits and masks, specific medical kits are part of this rich and uncommon exhibition.
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Some of the measurement equipment is still working, with old-fashioned, low-light electronic displays still lit – really an evoking sight from the Cold War era!
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Yet in another hangar, a huge collection of GDR cars and motorcycles is on display. Most of these now vintage cars and vehicles used to be a rather common sight in the GDR. The now iconic Trabant was a product of the GDR. However, many other car manufacturers existed in the Eastern Bloc, and in the USSR as well, and their products were often exported to other Countries in the bloc.
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Stately cars for the top-ranking communist leadership were usually Soviet-made. You can find a small gallery of these Cold War icons in a corner of the same hangar, ahead of giant portraits of the SED (the ruling party of the GDR) leaders – Ulbricht, Honecker, Krenz.
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
To the back of the hangar, classic motorcycles from the Eastern Bloc are on display. They include MZ motorcycles in use with the Völkspolizei, the police of the GDR. A sizable collection of cameras is also on display.
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
In the same hangar are a reconstruction of a gas station, as well as a crop-dusting propeller aircraft.
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Notably, you can spot fading writings in Russian on the walls of this hangar, an heritage of the Soviet tenancy of the airbase.
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Some museum items are on display outside. Some of the military vehicles in the collection are still in working conditions. Live demonstrations of tanks and armored transports are regularly planned, and make for a nice sight and a thrilling experience!
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Soviet Relics
Despite having being taken over by the museum and other commercial activities, the premises of the old Soviet airbase of Ribnitz-Damgarten betray the long decades of Soviet use. Besides the relics you can find scattered around in the airfield (see here for a previous exploration), very close to the museum hangars you can spot several technical buildings belonging to the base, and now basically abandoned.
On the side facade of one of those, a colossal Soviet emblem can still be seen, albeit now fading.
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Signs written in Russian can be spotted here and there, as well as an original, very interesting full scheme of the base (in Russian too), a typical sight in any Soviet base.
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Now-rotting buildings for the base staff can be found emerging from the overgrown vegetation to the north of the hangars.
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Finally, the runway is still in a good shape, albeit cut to the east to make room to yet another solar power plant – with a really questionable function, considering the rainy weather physiologically insisting on the region most of the year. The original centerline and other markings can be clearly seen still today.
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
The airport is closed, but since the runway has not been taken away, perhaps some hope remains for a future with at least general aviation activities, like in Rechlin or Finow.
International Reunion of Vehicles of the Eastern Bloc
Perhaps among the busiest days of the museum in Pütnitz, those of the ‘Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen’ (which translates into the title of this paragraph) make for one of the most exciting occasions for a visit. Usually taking three days, this colossal reunion hosts roughly 2.000 vehicles, from cars to trucks, from farm tractors to motorcycles, from side-cars to firefighting vehicles, and from 4×4 military transports to camping trailers – all made on the communist side of the Iron Curtain!
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
The reunion is international, and many come from beyond the near border with Poland. In 2021 the reunion hit its 20th edition.
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
All vehicles are parked in virtually any lot of flat land between and around the hangars of the museum, including the original taxiways and any grassy areas around.
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Furthermore, besides some official movements and parade, you will see vehicles moving around at any time, with their very characteristic good old piston engine crackling sound, as well as much spitting and thick-smoking!
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Besides the countless Trabants, built in several different versions you will come to discover, chance is to see massive Soviet GAZ military trucks, or even Hungary-built Ikarus buses!
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
The ‘Treffen’ of 2021 was especially unlucky with the weather, which on the plus side allowed many vehicles to show their all-weather capability!
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
Museum of Technology Püttnitz, Germany – Soviet Airbase Ribnitz-Damgarten – Internationales Ostblock-Fahrzeugtreffen
To better appreciate the noise and smoke, have a look to these three videos!
Visiting
The Museum of Technology in Pütnitz allows you to access the otherwise inaccessible base of Ribnitz-Damgarten. Access is recommended by car. The entrance is to the northeast of the airfield, through the original gate of the airbase. The museum has a website here.
Visiting in normal conditions, i.e. out of any special event, may take about 1 hour, more for a piston-power-minded subject, or for military/vehicles enthusiasts. In occasion of the vehicle reunion, planning a half-day visit at least is recommended, since the display of vehicles is really huge and worth a careful glance. A talk with many nice owners and enthusiasts may be a further plus in this occasion.
The western part of Poland, today on the border with Germany, used to be largely part of the German Reich before WWI. Following the defeat of the central empires in 1918, the borders of Poland were partly redrawn, but with respect to today’s political map of Europe a large territory of what is today western Poland was still German. Most notably, the Baltic town of Gdansk (or Danzig, in German) was the port town of Poland in the interwar period, linked through a narrow corridor to the main inland region of that country. The severing of this link and the attack on Gdansk by Hitler’s forces in late summer 1939 was the first act of WWII.
With this map in mind, it is no surprise that most towns in the Polish region on the Baltic shoreline, and south to the border with today’s Czechia, are pointed with former Luftwaffe airbases, German made concrete bunkers and coastal guns similar to the Atlantic Wall (see this post for an idea). As a matter of fact, also the remarkable border forts of Czechia were put in place in the 1930s to counter warlike Hitler’s Third Reich on the other side of the border, not Poland, today bordering Czechia to the north (see this post).
Western Poland was swept by Stalin’s Red Army in the closing season of WWII in winter and spring of 1945. Soon after WWII, Poland had its borders this time totally redrawn. A new big communist state was created in central Europe, which to the uttermost delusion of the fierce local population, was basically a feud of the USSR – actually, the largest and most populated of the countries in the Eastern Bloc.
Just like any other country in Moscow’s suffocating embrace, Poland was strongly militarized. The armed forces of Poland were among the most developed branches of the Polish state, but this was just a part of the overall picture. As soon as the former Allied forces of WWII split, and the USSR became an undeclared enemy of Western democracies in the late 1940s, a strategic Soviet force was installed in Poland, taking over many formerly German military assets in the western region. The Northern Group of Forces was the name of the branch of Soviet military deployed to Poland.
As the strategy for a war in Europe envisaged by the Soviets was based on a kind of nuclear-assisted blitzkrieg-style westward push from the border between the Eastern and Western Blocs, the westernmost regions of the Soviet satellite countries on the border with the west were the most heavily reinforced. These included all the territory of the strongly Soviet-presided German Democratic Republic (see for instance this and this post, but there are really many on this topic on this website, and a dedicated book as well!), western Poland, western Czechoslovakia (i.e. Czechia), and to a lesser extent also Hungary (see for instance here) and Bulgaria.
Traces of the Cold War are very abundant in Poland, where they have received a generally greater attention in later times than in other former communist dictatorships, with some good examples of preservation, besides an array of inevitably abandoned and rotting facilities. These traces include both Polish and Soviet relics.
Some conspicuous Cold War leftovers in Poland have been described in this post, a brilliant example of preservation of a nuclear bunker, and also here. In this one, some more are shown, either preserved or abandoned, Soviet or Polish. They include the abandoned Soviet command bunker in Legnica, the partly abandoned Soviet airbases of Chojna and Kolbrzeg, the Museum of the Polish Artillery in Torun, the Polish command bunker on the island of Wolin (‘Vineta Battery’) and the one-of-a-kind nuclear fallout control bunker in Kalisz. The war cemetery in the fortress of Poznan is also portrayed as a special feature – a unique testimony of the dramatic history of Poland in the 20th century.
Soviet Northern Group of Forces Command Bunker, Legnica
The role of the town of Legnica in Poland during the years of Soviet occupation was comparable to that of Wünsdorf in the German Democratic Republic (see this post). It was here that the Northern Group of Forces, i.e. the branch of the Red Army stationed in Poland, had its headquarters. Just like Wünsdorf, operations in Legnica could count on dedicated high-security facilities.
A complex of underground halls, connected by a network of tunnels, formed a nuclear-proof command and control center, capable of fully operating for more than a week without resupply from the outside world. Different from Wünsdorf, this extended network was prepared in the trees at a certain distance from the stately ‘official’ buildings of downtown Legnica, precisely west of the small village of Wilkocin.
The secret bunker in Wilkocin is actually formed by two separate items, once in the middle of an extensive fenced and strongly defended area, totally impenetrable and guarded by watchmen and watchdogs.
The western item, isolated in the sand dunes typical of this area, yet actually not far from the village of Wilkocin, was partly visible from the surface. The codename of this installation was ‘Syrius’, and it was a reserve command post for the western war theater, i.e. the war in central Europe, to be fought along the border with NATO forces, in case the Cold War should have turned ‘hot’.
A group of apparently normal buildings form the visible part of this complex. The latter might have been more numerous, and perhaps demolition works have stricken in the recent past – the site is basically abandoned since the early 1990s when the Soviets quit. Traces of colored floor tiles, electric wires with voltage indications in Russian – many items recall more or less explicitly the Soviet tenancy of this place.
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
A small water tank/pool and some service buildings can be found in the area at the base of the low-rise mound where the biggest building of the complex is.
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Traces of the original camouflage can be seen still today on the walls. Also the building date – 1983, a relatively recent date – is clearly reported on a sidewall.
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
The invisible, underground part of this complex can be accessed from small hatches, surfacing all around the main building, and even inside it – albeit the latter have been obstructed for safety, since the building is really rotting.
The underground part of the complex is basically made of a long straight corridor, giving access to an array of halls placed at a 90 degrees angle with respect to it. These halls vary in size. Some of them are really small, and were possibly intended for storing supplies, for sleeping stationing troops, or as technical rooms.
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Traces of direction signs in Russian can be seen on the walls.
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Some of these smaller halls are also interconnected, creating a kind of labyrinth. Tight doors were likely installed between adjoining rooms. They are gone now, but the passages between the rooms in the bunker are very small and make moving around difficult.
Not all of the halls were on the same level, so stairs can be found here and there.
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
To the far end of the main corridor, a much larger hall greatly resembles the military air control center in Wünsdorf, perhaps its intended purpose in the days of operations.
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Behind this larger hall, technical rooms might have been designed for gear to support control and monitoring operations – computers, projectors, etc. A long tunnel takes you outside directly from this area.
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Back inside, the main corridor ends in a descending flight of stairs, giving access to another roomy hall. There used to be (likely) a massive tight door here, as suggested by traces in the walls.
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
This final hall is rather peculiar, having a kind of smaller control cabin in it.
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
From the outside, the cusp profile of the latter hall surfaces from the side of a hill, taking the shape of a hangar with two entrances – possibly a garage for radars or antennas, linked and providing data to the adjoining hall, likely a control room.
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
A walk of about 1 mile to the southeast of the first item takes you to the second bunker in the secluded area of Wilkocin. Codenamed ‘Tuman’ (meaning ‘fog’ in Russian) in Soviet times, this was the central communication node of the Northern Group of Forces. Differently to the ‘Syrius’ item, this second facility was built totally underground.
The only surfacing components are an array of bulky but relatively small concrete constructions, possibly the base for electric/electronic gear like aerials, capacitors, or something alike.
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Concrete hatches give access to very steep, narrow and long staircases, taking you down into the core of the hill.
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
The ‘Tuman’ item is basically articulated along two long parallel corridors, with halls between them.
The function of the halls is today hard to guess. Some unusual features, maybe associated to the original role of the corresponding rooms, are the different, often bright colors of the walls and ceiling, ranging from orange, to lurid green, to sooth black.
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
In some spots, the pavement is covered with ‘elaborated’ tiles, unexpected in an underground military facility.
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Traces of hardware are relatively few, and include a few lamps, metal pipes emerging from the walls, and some cabinets with writing in Russian.
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
The numerous interconnections between the halls, tunnels and passages in this bunker result in a very complicated labyrinth!
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
The majority of the halls are similar in structure. A couple are roomier and feature a significantly taller ceiling.
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
The sand of the dunes outside has somehow managed to come in one of the halls!
The secluded location of these mysterious and silent bunkers, isolated deep in the trees and far from any populated settlement, makes for a very thought-provoking walk.
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Getting there and moving around
This site is an interesting example of ‘semi-wild’ conservation. It is advertised by means of dedicated explanatory panels in the village of Wilkocin, and can be reached leaving your car there and taking well-maintained trails to the two items. Actually, both bunkers are also sanctuaries for bats. Once there, you can explore the underground networks without restrictions, and modern emergency exit routes are also visible on the walls. However, the tunnels and halls are completely dark, and there is no map. Visiting is at your own risk. So a torchlight and a good sense of direction are required if you are visiting alone. Yet given the limited size of these bunkers and the many exits, you are not likely to run into any trouble. In my view, this is a good compromise for interested people to visit these historically relevant installations, which are not being demolished, but left to interested people without spending a cent of public money to preserve them.
Due to the size of the area and the walk required to reach the points of interest from the parking in Wilkocin, you might easily spend 4 hours exploring this site thoroughly. Due to the location, pretty far from everything, it is likely you will not meet a single person for the whole duration of your stay – this may add much to the ghost aura of the place. Cell phone coverage is so-so, and obviously null inside the bunkers. You might better go with some offline maps (Google maps of the area are fine, as you are not required to move out of technical roads, clearly visible from satellite pictures).
Chojna Abandoned Soviet Airbase
The western districts of Poland hosted basically all Soviet airbases to be found on the territory of this country. This was clearly connected with the strategy of the USSR in case of a war in Europe. Having most offensive forces ready for action along the border with the West meant a significant time advantage in the quick invasion of core Europe and the rush to the North sea, which were in the plans of the top-ranking military in Moscow in case of an outbreak of hostilities.
Actually, the Soviets did not have trouble in finding suitable locations for growing modern airbases in this area – the Luftwaffe had in this district an outstanding number of airfields. Chojna, known as Königsberg before 1945, was one of them.
The Soviets took control of this airport in February 1945, and since them it became one of the most developed in Poland. Today, the airport is basically closed except for minor ultralight operations. However, its original size and prominence can be appreciated moving around its premises – today possible, as the former taxiways and service roads have been turned into car traffic roads, albeit not much used except by the local companies who have taken over some of the original hangars.
Among the many interesting sights of this former airbase, the runway is – as of 2020 – basically intact! This makes for a very unusual and impressive sight – the length of the runway is remarkable, since the airbase was potentiated over the years, and in the closing stage of the Cold War, the Soviets operated from here with massive Sukhoi Su-27 fighters (late 1980s).
Chojna Abandoned Soviet Air Base Poland
Chojna Abandoned Soviet Air Base Poland
Chojna Abandoned Soviet Air Base Poland
Chojna Abandoned Soviet Air Base Poland
Chojna Abandoned Soviet Air Base Poland
Differently from western standards, the Soviets always preferred runway surfaces made of relatively small adjoining concrete slabs.
Chojna Abandoned Soviet Air Base Poland
Chojna Abandoned Soviet Air Base Poland
Chojna Abandoned Soviet Air Base Poland
Chojna Abandoned Soviet Air Base Poland
Chojna Abandoned Soviet Air Base Poland
Chojna Abandoned Soviet Air Base Poland
In connection with the operation of larger fighters, in the form of Su-27, Chojna was one of a handful airbases in the Soviet empire to receive the AU-19 type shelter, the biggest in the inventory of the Soviet air forces.
Chojna Abandoned Soviet Air Base Poland
Only a few of these hangars were built, and today some of them in Chojna have been sadly demolished.
Along the main taxiway running parallel to the runway, smaller AU-11 shelters can be found – their size being compatible with MiG-15 or MiG-21, both types operating from Chojna over the years – converted for storage by local companies or private owners.
Chojna Abandoned Soviet Air Base Poland
Chojna Abandoned Soviet Air Base Poland
Chojna Abandoned Soviet Air Base Poland
Chojna Abandoned Soviet Air Base Poland
Chojna Abandoned Soviet Air Base Poland
Chojna Abandoned Soviet Air Base Poland
A larger maintenance hangar has been taken over by a major engineering company.
Chojna Abandoned Soviet Air Base Poland
Chojna Abandoned Soviet Air Base Poland
Chojna Abandoned Soviet Air Base Poland
Another remarkable feature of Chojna is a well preserved ‘Granit’-type bunker. This type of bunker was the lightest and cheapest in the Soviet inventory. It could serve different functions, from theater missile storage, tactical nuclear ordnance storage, reinforced command bunker, etc.
Chojna Abandoned Soviet Air Base Poland
Chojna Abandoned Soviet Air Base Poland
Chojna Abandoned Soviet Air Base Poland
Chojna Abandoned Soviet Air Base Poland
Chojna Abandoned Soviet Air Base Poland
Chojna Abandoned Soviet Air Base Poland
The actual function of the bunker in Chojna is shrouded into mystery, but similar bunkers can be found in association with tactical nuclear deterrent in Poland (see this post). This might suggest the presence of air-dropped nuclear weapons in this airbase, at some point in history.
Chojna Abandoned Soviet Air Base Poland
Chojna Abandoned Soviet Air Base Poland
Chojna Abandoned Soviet Air Base Poland
Chojna Abandoned Soviet Air Base Poland
Chojna Abandoned Soviet Air Base Poland
Chojna Abandoned Soviet Air Base Poland
Chojna Abandoned Soviet Air Base Poland
Chojna Abandoned Soviet Air Base Poland
Chojna Abandoned Soviet Air Base Poland
Despite too populated and lively to evoke a thick Soviet ghost aura (unlike several bases in the GDR, see for instance this post), Chojna is definitely worth a quick visit for the many unique spots it still offers, as well as for the ease of touring it moving around by car.
Getting there and moving around
Chojna is pretty close to the German border, some 30 miles south of Szczecin. The airbase is located south of the town, with now public roads providing access from the former Soviet village originally for the troops, today normally inhabited by the local population. A visit of less than one hour may cover most of the spots. The ‘Granit’-type bunker can be found in the south-western corner area of the base, with access just south of the western extremity of the runway.
Kolobrzeg Abandoned Soviet Airbase
The airport of Kolbrzeg is actually not really abandoned. Originally a Third Reich’s Luftwaffe installation, the Soviets took over this airfield, located right on the Baltic shoreline, potentiating it through a much longer runway, and turning the original German one into a taxiway and apron.
Today, the long Soviet runway is still used for general aviation operations, with private Cessna and Cirrus aircraft flying to this touristic location.
Kolobrzeg Soviet Airbase Poland
Kolobrzeg Soviet Airbase Poland
However, the airport was too big for the traffic it needs to support today. Hence large parts of the former area have been opened to public car traffic, and abandoned shelters from Soviet tenancy can be found scattered around.
The area of the apron, with large concrete slabs making the pavement, can be freely walked and allows to appreciate the big size of this air base.
Kolobrzeg Soviet Airbase Poland
Kolobrzeg Soviet Airbase Poland
Kolobrzeg Soviet Airbase Poland
Kolobrzeg Soviet Airbase Poland
Kolobrzeg Soviet Airbase Poland
Part of the original technical hangars, likely dating back to Hitler’s era, have been re-used by local companies.
Kolobrzeg Soviet Airbase Poland
Similar to Chojna (see above), Kolobrzeg once had a ‘Granit’-type bunker built on its premises. Unfortunately, this was selected for demolition, and nothing remains of it today.
Kolobrzeg Soviet Airbase Poland
Getting there and moving around
The airport of Kolobrzeg can be found about 3 miles east of the village, along the Baltic shoreline. The former German-then-Soviet village is today a tourist destination (name Podczele), thanks to the proximity with the beach. You may have a quick visit by car to the airport area, moving along the old Soviet taxiways, before parking on the former apron and going to the beach.
Museum of Artillery, Torun
Just east of remarkable UNESCO-town Torun, the small collection of the Museum of Artillery makes for an interesting detour from the touristic path. This museums occupies the westernmost building of the School of Artillery of the Polish Army, still active today.
The collection is clearly centered mainly on artillery, documenting the history and potential of this branch of the military with an interesting collection of shells, fuzes, warheads, cannons, howitzers and firearms mostly from the 20th century and up to our days.
Museum of Artillery Torun Poland
Museum of Artillery Torun Poland
Museum of Artillery Torun Poland
Museum of Artillery Torun Poland
Museum of Artillery Torun Poland
Museum of Artillery Torun Poland
Museum of Artillery Torun Poland
Museum of Artillery Torun Poland
Museum of Artillery Torun Poland
Museum of Artillery Torun Poland
Being a Soviet satellite for the whole duration of the Cold War, Poland received war material made in the USSR in large lots. Among the artifacts on display, didactic cutouts of Soviet warheads from theater missiles are extremely interesting.
Museum of Artillery Torun Poland
Museum of Artillery Torun Poland
Museum of Artillery Torun Poland
Museum of Artillery Torun Poland
Museum of Artillery Torun Poland
Museum of Artillery Torun Poland
Museum of Artillery Torun Poland
Museum of Artillery Torun Poland
Computational range-finding gear of Soviet make is also on display.
Museum of Artillery Torun Poland
Museum of Artillery Torun Poland
Museum of Artillery Torun Poland
Museum of Artillery Torun Poland
The diversity of shells and fuzes is always striking – some of the fuzes look like high-precision clock mechanisms.
Museum of Artillery Torun Poland
Museum of Artillery Torun Poland
Museum of Artillery Torun Poland
Museum of Artillery Torun Poland
Museum of Artillery Torun Poland
Museum of Artillery Torun Poland
Museum of Artillery Torun Poland
Museum of Artillery Torun Poland
Museum of Artillery Torun Poland
Museum of Artillery Torun Poland
To the outside, you are allowed a view of the courtyard of the school of artillery (inaccessible at the time of my visit), with a collection of heavier weapons. It appears however that the collection is loosing some of the items on display in the Cold War years, maybe for restoration, or for displaying them in other collections.
Museum of Artillery Torun Poland
Museum of Artillery Torun Poland
Museum of Artillery Torun Poland
Museum of Artillery Torun Poland
In a small depot on the side of the museum building it is possible to find a restoration shop, where they are actively working on the refurbishment of some heavier pieces of artillery.
Museum of Artillery Torun Poland
Museum of Artillery Torun Poland
Getting there and moving around
The museum can be accessed at this coordinates: 53.019260130760934, 18.623310804318898. It is a about .5 miles northeast of the central touristic district of Torun. You will find a rather unapparent pedestrian gate with a doorbell. You will be immediately admitted upon ringing the doorbell. Parking is not easy in the area. Visiting may take about 30-40 minutes for an interested subject. Unfortunately, explanations are in Polish only, but the museum staff is welcoming and they will try their best to let you get the most out of your visit. Website here.
Nuclear Fallout Control Bunker, Kalisz
Really a one-of-a-kind witness of the Cold War on the eastern side of the Iron Curtain, the perfectly restored and preserved bunker in Kalisz can be found in the basement of a standard residential home.
The secret bunker unveils today a complex and careful administration of the Polish territory, in view of a possible nuclear war to be fought in this country. This installation, run by the Polish government since the 1960s, besides serving as a crisis reporting point, was a central node for the administrative district having its capital city in Kalisz. The main standard function of the bunker was that of collecting and elaborating meteorological information from several sub-nodes of the reporting network, thus elaborating a map of the winds which was regularly updated.
The scope of this very precise meteorological forecast was that of estimating the likely evolution of a potential nuclear fallout, in case of a nuclear attack. Based on this information, the national Army could be sent in a direction or another, avoiding contaminated hot spots, evacuation operations of the local population could be carried out with a good knowledge of the actual risk, and so on.
The bunker could also trigger a nuclear attack alarm for the population of Kalisz, and it could host the local government representatives to ensure the survival of the chain of command.
The bunker is about 5.000 square feet, on a single underground level. It is articulated along a single corridor, with several rooms accessible on the sides. A unique feature – most of the original hardware is still there!
